RC Drift noob
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RC Drift noob
Hi guys,
I've gotten really into RC drifting over the past Year. I started with a Mitsubishi Evo X TT01E XB. I got full ball bearing set, allminum Shafts, camber adjustable arms and Oil shocks.
Very fun car. Reliable, easy to dismantle.
Now I've upped my game. I got a yokomo MR-4TC SD Genki Altezza. Very fun to build the kit. Lovely chassis. All you'd ever want, for a while
Anyway want to build a great car with great electronics. Not like the standard stuff in the TT01. I bought a Spektrum DX3C Transmitter and an SR3001 Pro reciever. And I have a Orion 4200mah SHO battery.
So all I need now is a good servo, motor and ESC. Any reccomendations. I'm just looking for a good quality motor to get me started, with good RPM. I want to be able to pull long drifts. Is brushless advisable. I would like my car setyp so that it wont need to be changed for a long while.
Thanks looking forward to hearing your choices, Daniel
I've gotten really into RC drifting over the past Year. I started with a Mitsubishi Evo X TT01E XB. I got full ball bearing set, allminum Shafts, camber adjustable arms and Oil shocks.
Very fun car. Reliable, easy to dismantle.
Now I've upped my game. I got a yokomo MR-4TC SD Genki Altezza. Very fun to build the kit. Lovely chassis. All you'd ever want, for a while
Anyway want to build a great car with great electronics. Not like the standard stuff in the TT01. I bought a Spektrum DX3C Transmitter and an SR3001 Pro reciever. And I have a Orion 4200mah SHO battery.
So all I need now is a good servo, motor and ESC. Any reccomendations. I'm just looking for a good quality motor to get me started, with good RPM. I want to be able to pull long drifts. Is brushless advisable. I would like my car setyp so that it wont need to be changed for a long while.
Thanks looking forward to hearing your choices, Daniel
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RE: RC Drift noob
Anything from 7t-17t should be fine for drifting, the lower the turns the faster the motor. All up to your budget. Servos, digital or metal gear it doesn't matter too much on a lightweight car. a 5000mah NiMh battery will last the longest but if you go lipo you can get higher MaH.
As far as your chassis, in the future you might want to lock the rear diff, switch out the gears and maybe improve the steering angle.
By the way, my family's from Cork
As far as your chassis, in the future you might want to lock the rear diff, switch out the gears and maybe improve the steering angle.
By the way, my family's from Cork
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RE: RC Drift noob
ORIGINAL: narwalrus
By the way, my family's from Cork
By the way, my family's from Cork
As far as the chassis goes its the MR-4TC 'SD' so she's full drift spec. Front and rear locked up. Good steering angle.
I would like to get a One Way but I don't know of any online store that sells this sort of stuff. Do you?
And here comes another noob Question, if I go li-po, do I need a lipo ESC? Or can you put a lipo in any normal setup?
Thanks, Daniel
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RE: RC Drift noob
Well, we've never actually been there but we do have citizenship :P
12t sound just about right, assuming you're not building this to be "competitive", just fun.
is the chassis the belt driven one or the shaft driven one? Here's the gears I was talking about:
http://driftmission.com/guides/yokomo-cs-gears-guide/
I was looking at the Yokomo gears there. I'm not sure if it's set up 50/50 front/rear on the power distribution, but those will overdrive the rear wheels and make it so you can actually counter-steer like a full-scale car, full left while moving right and such.
I think you might already be running a front one-way:
I don't use lipo myself (Although I've got one in the mail) however I believe you need to check if the ESC has a voltage cutoff/LiPo compatibility listed. You can attach an external voltage cutoff if it doesn't.
12t sound just about right, assuming you're not building this to be "competitive", just fun.
is the chassis the belt driven one or the shaft driven one? Here's the gears I was talking about:
http://driftmission.com/guides/yokomo-cs-gears-guide/
I was looking at the Yokomo gears there. I'm not sure if it's set up 50/50 front/rear on the power distribution, but those will overdrive the rear wheels and make it so you can actually counter-steer like a full-scale car, full left while moving right and such.
I think you might already be running a front one-way:
The kit also provided the parts (less diff balls) to make a front diff if you didn't want to run the front one-way.
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RE: RC Drift noob
ORIGINAL: narwalrus
12t sound just about right, assuming you're not building this to be "competitive", just fun.
is the chassis the belt driven one or the shaft driven one?.
I think you might already be running a front one-way:
12t sound just about right, assuming you're not building this to be "competitive", just fun.
is the chassis the belt driven one or the shaft driven one?.
I think you might already be running a front one-way:
The kit also provided the parts (less diff balls) to make a front diff if you didn't want to run the front one-way.
My chassis is the shaft.
Omg! I do have a spare solid diff piece, I must check the rest of parts left. Instructions are all in Japanese haha.
Wow thanks a mill for the link. I assumed CS was a privilege for just the Belt driven cars.
I must find out we're to get these CS kits.
What is meant by this overdrive and underdrive. I pressure you wouldn't want the front end running more rpms than the front.
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RE: RC Drift noob
12t would be plenty of fun. I have my grip car running 15t brushed and for messing around on the street it's all the power I need.
The Yokomo is actually ones of the few shaft cars that can be CS'd, partially due to their drifting design and popularity in Japan, hence more option parts.
Yep, for drifting you want the rear to spin faster. As I recall, underdrive/overdrive is just the way the gears are changed. Underdrive makes the front spin slower whereas overdrive makes the rear spin faster.
The Yokomo is actually ones of the few shaft cars that can be CS'd, partially due to their drifting design and popularity in Japan, hence more option parts.
Yep, for drifting you want the rear to spin faster. As I recall, underdrive/overdrive is just the way the gears are changed. Underdrive makes the front spin slower whereas overdrive makes the rear spin faster.
#7
RE: RC Drift noob
Yes underdrive is to make the wheels rotate less...overdrive is to make them rotate more. For your Yok you can buy the counter steer kits that will overdrive the rear wheels by 50%(1.5) 80%(1.8) or 100%(2.0). 50% CS will turn the rear wheel a half turn more than the front wheel, 80% nearly 3/4 more and 100% a full turn, with 100% or 2.0 CS the rear wheel goes around two turns for every one turn in the front.
This is a CS kit for your Yok...I just sold 3 kits..
Her's the three CS kits that are available and the one way shaft
Here's my old Yok with carbon fibre upgrade and suzuki high angle steer kit
If you plan on CS you will need other parts as your skills improve...a one way (either shaft or a diff) and more steer angle, and C hubs with higher degree caster also gives it better steer response. Counter steering is the way to go, it looks and acts like the real thing. Once you master it 50/50 (no counter steer) you will not go back to 50/50...CS is like going from a tricycle to a two wheeler.
Also for controlled drifting you don't need anything under a 10T motor it's just too much power...it will actually hinder you...higher power means less throttle response, it will be to off the line jerky, you want really smooth throttle increase. If you can go brushless...Novak Slydr with drift spec motors are tailored for drift....super smooth throttle.
This is a CS kit for your Yok...I just sold 3 kits..
Her's the three CS kits that are available and the one way shaft
Here's my old Yok with carbon fibre upgrade and suzuki high angle steer kit
If you plan on CS you will need other parts as your skills improve...a one way (either shaft or a diff) and more steer angle, and C hubs with higher degree caster also gives it better steer response. Counter steering is the way to go, it looks and acts like the real thing. Once you master it 50/50 (no counter steer) you will not go back to 50/50...CS is like going from a tricycle to a two wheeler.
Also for controlled drifting you don't need anything under a 10T motor it's just too much power...it will actually hinder you...higher power means less throttle response, it will be to off the line jerky, you want really smooth throttle increase. If you can go brushless...Novak Slydr with drift spec motors are tailored for drift....super smooth throttle.
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RE: RC Drift noob
Thats an unreal setup on your yok. I have to get a CS kit so the car doesnt look 4wd. And I never thaught there was a high angle kit for these. Does anyone have an Image of how to make the One-Way that the yokomo kit apparently gives you. I have 2 spaare solid axles and no cogs except the ones that are already in use. Do I use them?
#9
RE: RC Drift noob
there is everything for the Yok MR-4TC SD...you can get all kinds of hop ups for this chassis, this is the front one way...
http://www.rcmart.com/yokomo-d021-fr...th=595_746_407
http://www.rcmart.com/yokomo-d021-fr...th=595_746_407
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RE: RC Drift noob
Thanks for the link. I'm buying a one-way nowNow all I need is a CS kit. RC mart dont have them. All i need i suppose to start off would be 50% more rear spin. Anyone know where to buy?