drac1

My Feedback: (4)

It's interesting that you are so sure it will fire turning over slowly by hand. Just wondering have you actually tried. I'm not saying it won't, but i have tried both with the plug in the engine and with the plug out of the engine earthing against the engine.
I was doing this trying to determine if i had a faulty ignition box. The only time i have had the plug fire is when turned over with a starter, not by hand. But like i said earlier, it's good practise not to tun by hand with the ignition on.

apereira

Hello Drac1,

It work as Robert said.The YS ignition fires every time the sensor is exited, I actually move the prop back and forth about 20deg and the ignition fires every time I cross the sensor, the DA engines ignition I think works as you say as it has to have some speed (achievable by hand), if the prop is moved slowly it will not fire, but I am not sure, it's been a while since I ran my DA100.

You ,ight have a problem with your ignition if it is a YS.

Regards

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

It is my YS i was talking about. Thanks for the info.

MTK

I still run the original prototype IBEC in my gas set-up. Also have one each of the next few iterations. They all work great; highly recommend this little gem not just for weight savings (about 5 ounces), but for the convenience it gives me

I regulate the 2S lipo to my RX (with a TechAero reg) and that voltage gets further regulated by the IBEC (to the CDI). No issues piggy backing the two regs

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

I agree with Matt. I ran them on my CDI units and they worked great. Highly recommend them,

Arch

rm

My Feedback: (27)

Is adding loctite to the manifold nuts, engine mount bolts, and muffler mount bolts worth it? Do you guys do this?

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

I have tried loctite on the three bolts that bolt the header to the manifold, but they still become loose after about eight flights. Does anyone else have this problem?
What methods do others use to stop then coming loose?
I have not had any problems with the plug cap coming off and I don't secure it with anything.
I usually have trouble removing the cap when I need to.

Scott

apereira

Loctite do work, but not that much if it is very hot, as heat is used to loose parts attached with Loctite, but use red, not blue

On the manifold, secure the nuts, fly, and after laning while still hot, re adjust them, that should take care of it.

Regards

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

I'm aware of the properties of Loctite, but I thought I would give it a go anyway. There is a heat proof Loctite but it may be a problem to undo if it works well. I didn't think of tightening after the bolts were hot, so I will give that a go.
Also do you use the standard graphite gasket?

Scott

rene69

I run a YS 170CDI. What I did on the 3 screws to the flange is:
I replaced them with #4-40 capscrews. I use locking #4-40 nuts and the screws are long enough that they run interference with the cylinder cooling fins and prevent the flange from rotating.
On the cap I use a tie-wrap to hold the cup down and a real thin tie-wrap to the cap itself to prevent the first tie-wrap to slide back over the bridewire and ruin it.
Rene

apereira

Hello Scott,

Yes, the original gasket, I stopped using loctite on those three bolts about two years ago, and still no problems.

But wich Hatori do you have? I mean version, not model, or how long ago did you buy it? I did have two tight the bolts once in a while on the older type, on the latest model the flange is stronger and do not get distorted and I do not have to check the bolts.

Regards

Alejandro

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Alejandro,

I did notice on the photos earlier in this thread that the flange is thicker than on mine. I might try some thicker washers and see how that goes. With the thicker flange, is the flange threaded for the bolts instead of using nuts?

Scott

apereira

No, it still uses the nuts, but the flanges do not get distorted, that is a big plus, so there is no leak there preventing for oil to be all over the place.

I will be trying the YS header vey soon, it has the same concept on the old Hatori, you can see it in Narukehobby's page, but the latest Hatori has been very good.

Regards

Alejandro

jkruger

If the braided cable touches the motor mount or the header is there an electrical problem? Better way to ask is does the exterior of the braided cable carry any current?
Thanks
John Kruger

kevenoco

My Feedback: (1)

I think that the braided cable is only for electromagnetic shielding to prevent RF interference. There should not be any problem with it touching the header. Mine touches the air intake tube and doesn't cause any trouble.

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

That's correct. The outer braid is for shielding. There is no cuurrent.

grcourtney

My Feedback: (1)

The braided cable completes the DC circuit back to the ign. box after the spark jumps the gap... touching the motor has no effect..


G

apereira

The braided cable is electrically connected to the engine and all the metal parts through the head cap already.

jkruger

Thanks. I don't have much space between the firewall and the engine to run the cable. Was concerned that I might be creating a problem with the way I want to route the cable.
John Kruger

jkruger

Another question. I got a Hyde mount for my Valiant and a Central Hobbies nose ring. The nose ring has about 1/32 inch slop all around the engine. I have contacted Central Hobbies, YS and Mr Hyde to info on how to fix this. Central Hobbies was kind enough to build me a nose ring with the o ring replaced by small fuel tubing. YS says they wrap the engine with a special YS teflon tape. Has anyone else encountered this situation and how did they fix it.
Thanks
John Kruger

riot3d

The thin teflon tape comes with the YS mount/ nose ring, they do sell them separately at Japanese hobby stores. May be Central will be able to send you a roll if they have extra.

Adrian

MTK

John,

You can build the clearance up yourself for a fraction of the cost of the YS Teflon tape. Mc Master Carr carries the exact same stuff. It is sticky backed (silicone high temp adhesive) Teflon skived tape. St Gobain is the manufacturer. They have a website

MTK

I read further up and saw your concerns about the ignition cable touching metal parts. In gas ignition set-ups we wrap the braid with some type of nometallic sleeve. If you go to Mc Master Carr to purchase the teflon tape buy enough to spirally wrap the braid. They also carry plastic braid stock or spirally slit tubing stock that also serve the same functionelectrical isolation and peace of mind

MTK

Further up I saw someone had problems holding the headers on. I had similar issues holding my exhaust headers on my gas engines. Problem was solved by using Permatex Ultra Copper sealant on the bolts and flange and adding NordLoc washers on the bolt heads. The sealant is silicone high temp gas resistant material that takes one hell of alot of heat and stays flexible. Try it...

BTW if you guys need a better solution for flexible coupling material, let me recommend you do as follows: I discovered this solution a couple years ago and it is better than Teflon. I build my own couplers for gas exhaust using ceramic fabric impregnated with Permatex Ultra Copper. It is simply rolled on a suitable, teflon lined mandrel and secured tightly with teflon tape for a day to cure the Ultra Copper. I use 2-3 layers of fabric. These simply do not blow out. In addition if you need to make a bent coupler, it is simple to do precisely as long as you have a shaping mandrel to mold around

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

I used the Hyde LR85 mount and Central Hobbies nose ring in both my Valiants. The nose ring fitted spot on. Maybe yours was a dud? All the nose rings should be the same, so if one fits they all should fit??

I always use the YS teflon tape when using the YS mount as the noise ring inner is a hard type of plastic material and may cause wear on the engine.