CRRC PRO GF26I
But, during it's short life it was a star [8D] I did buy it second-hand and it was the original (with the missing carb impulse hole).
GP26R replaces it. Bit more power, much quieter (due to rear induction and with a good muffler), runs like a clock in any attitude and generally feels good. Honestly, you can do any sort of inverted flat spin blender; tumbling; whirlpool; flip-flop and it does not miss a beat. Vibration? NO.
This is an update to my CRRC 26cc repairs,I dismantle the engine and found the front bearing in bad shape, looks like it was spinning in the crank case, I bought the kit that came with three bearings instead of two bearings, to replace the bearings I use a technique I read in this forums, heat the crankcase to 200F and freeze the bearing in my refrigerator for 15 min. The assembly process need to be done fast to get the bearings in place easy. I assemble everything, torque thecrankcase bolts to 10#/pound (data took from this forums), I get everything together. Test the engine and it works great. I flowlast weekend and I was impress of the performance of this little engine, idle at 2200rpm and 7600rmp WOT, use a 16x8 prop. Keep in mind that Ijust change bearings and crankshaft due to a severe shaft play I had ( 2-3 mm). This motor was used alot, Im the third owner.
Here are some pictures of the dismantle and the assembly, everything else look good inside the motor, forget to tell that I use a composite to maintain in place thefront crankshaft bearing.
I probably spend $30 included spare parts and miscellaneous. Better than buy a new fancy engine..!
This is my RV-4[/b] ... it is kind like an special plane to me, I bought it form a widow, she told me that this plane was used for his husband mostly Sundays because it was his favorite plane, I already crash it ones and I decided to fix it and make it fly again, I change the glow engine .75 for a CRRC 26cc and this plane now flies with a lot of authority, I like the scale looks so I fly scale but fast... LOL
The CRRC 26cc[/b] is a perfect match for this plane.
here is a picture of it..!
I get the spare parts from:
Bearings
PRC Model
http://www.prcmodel.com/modeng/name/onlinestore/category/21
Crankshaft
[email protected]
http://www.maxfordusa.com
Maxford usa have the 2 bearings set
PRCmodel have the 3 bearing set
The people from Maxfordusa are really nice and theshipping is super fast
PRCmodel I think is located in Canada so the shipping from Canada - USAtakesbetween 8 to12 days
in both cases I was very please with theirhelp
I just wanted to ask the more experience fellows with this engine a question.
I own a Hangar 9 1/4 scale cub. I currently have a Saito 180 with Slimline pitts installed.
This engine pulls this plane nicely. It swings a Xoar 18x6 @ 8300RPM, richened to 8000 for safety. I would be just fine flying at 7600-7800 RPM, however.
Does anyone have any numbers for performance on this Xoar 18x6 prop? Is this too much prop on this engine? Please let me know. I am thinking of this engine, or a Zenoah g-26 ei. Thanks!
Best,
Chris
Hi all!
I just wanted to ask the more experience fellows with this engine a question.
I own a Hangar 9 1/4 scale cub. I currently have a Saito 180 with Slimline pitts installed.
This engine pulls this plane nicely. It swings a Xoar 18x6 @ 8300RPM, richened to 8000 for safety. I would be just fine flying at 7600-7800 RPM, however.
Does anyone have any numbers for performance on this Xoar 18x6 prop? Is this too much prop on this engine? Please let me know. I am thinking of this engine, or a Zenoah g-26 ei. Thanks!
Best,
Chris
Xoar 16 X 8 @ 8400 rpm
Xoar 17 X 6 @ 8400 rpm
Xoar 17 X 8 @ 7500 rpm
Xoar 18 X 6 @ 7800 rpm
Xoar 18 X 8 @ 7400 rpm
I am presently using 25:1, thinking about changing now to 40:1 as it seems to be what is recomended, what needle adjustments should I expect?
What are the main advantages other than using less oil and maybe bit less black mess on your plane.
I have about gallon & half through my V2 and have to say it is running fairly well and starts easy.
I am presently using 25:1, thinking about changing now to 40:1 as it seems to be what is recomended, what needle adjustments should I expect?
What are the main advantages other than using less oil and maybe bit less black mess on your plane.
I'm still at less than a gallon through mine as of now and still running at 32:1 (which is what I thought was the recommended ratio for break in). Plan on going to 40:1 after another half gallon or so.
Did you have to adjust the needles for your 25:1 mix? At 32:1, my 26 factory settings were fine soI never touched them (Im at around 2500' ASL) and dont anticipate having to do much once I switch to 40:1.
When running less oil...you can expect an increase in power. Also expect an increase in engine operating temparture. Im sure you will have less carbon spit...but I wouldnt expect it to stop all together. Have a broken in zdz40 @ 40:1 and it still spits a little soot out.
When you are ready I would switch to the 40:1 and do a plug chop to check the color of your plug and adjust the high end accordingly. Should be a light brown to tan color. Black is too rich, white too lean.
The low end needle wont effect much past 1/3 stick, so tune it from idle to 1/3 stick or so. Then from 1/3 to full, tune your high end. In order to get an accurate "plug chop", you need to kill the ignition at WOT. Run the engine up to WOT for 10 seconds or so and just kill the engine(either optic kill or just turn the ignition switch off but remember to not decrease the throttle before doing so). Remove the plug and look for the color indicated above.
Also..remember that tuning the low end needle does affect the high end...but tuning the high end doesnt affect the low. So tune your low end first and get it to where it runs good from idle to 1/3 stick...then start tuning your hi end from there to WOT. You may have to work at this to get it just right. But once you get the low end right....the high end will be known to be correct when your plug chop is like I described.
I just got my new GF26I V2 engine.
I wanted to know if this battery will be good enough for the ignition of this engine?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23825
I run mine on 4.8, but have a few other planes where it isnt practical to run 2 batteries and I run my ignition at 6 volts on a larger life pack...but I use a UBEC to step it down to 4.8 to the ignition and full 6 to the RX.
I have powered ignitions with no UBEC before at 6 volts and it worked just fine too.
Just wanted to share my experience of GF26I-V2 engine.
I mounted the engine on a 26cc Edge 540 and ran about 2 litres of petrol on ground at 25:1 mix on a 17x6 APC prop. Next Sunday, ran another tank (about 350cc) before the maiden flight. The plane flew well and the engine behaved well. But idle speed was too high making landing very difficult as the plane would not stop after touchdown. Well, had to use engine kill to land on a dead stick that time.
Next couple of Sundays, the idle somehow settled ( but still a little high), and the engine was running very good. All fellow flyers started praising the engine reliability in comparison to their DLE's. I was thinking that compared to their high cost engine, this engine is proving its mettle.
But I though praises too early. Last Sunday, while flying at about 1/4th throttle and doing low circles and lazy flying, there was a loud thud and no power. Managed to land safely and realised that crank shaft is broken.
NOW STARTS MY ORDEAL. Tried to source the crank from many websites, but no one was stocking. The manufacturer recommended www.hobbyocean.com. Ordered the crank shaft and along with it, bearings, gaskets, woodruff key and other items which I felt now I should have it in stock.
My order arrived 48 days after placing order. When I opened the parcel, all the items were different from the stock parts. None would fit. I rechecked my order to see if I had by mistake ordered wrong parts. On carefully seeing their website, I realised that they had all parts listed under wrong engine model - parts of another 26cc model were listed under 26i-v2 model. Because I had ordered parts listed under V2 model, I did not bother to check any further. But how can I check if the ID or OD of a bearing is correct or the length of the crank is correct just from a picture?
I had ordered parts listed under the correct engine model, but the vendor has different models parts under different model heading. I have also come to understand that the manufacturer of CRRCPRO is also the vendor and owner of the website Hobbyocean.com.
Please be careful in ordering anything from this website.
Thx
I was running my engine on the ground and it quit, when I turn it over now it feels like the piston is hitting something at TDC, with and without the spark plug fitted. It can be turned over past whatever the obstruction is.Its the same when turned over in the opposite direction, Is this a Bearing failure?