8MILLSNIPER007

Yeah Jim, this pipe I have is about 12-1/2" total length! it's too short and that may be part of the reason I cant get the motor up on the pipe. With the 482 prop on it would launch just fine but as soon as I would try and throttle up it would fall flat on it's ***** and die. I put the 280 prop on and at least the boat would run but I could only get about 5k rpms out of it, with that short of a pipe it probally wouldnt kick in until 8-10k rpm's. I was getting 16 mph then I tried moving the strut up as far as it would go and ran it and gained 4 more mph but then lost my water cooling so that ended the day! I will try and talk to the guy that I got the pipe from and see if he has any longer ones.

chipbreakr

My Feedback: (1)

If you can't find a different pipe just put a section of pipe in it to get it out to what you need . You might be able to use copper couplers , with hose clamps . Just use use a hacksaw to cut 2 grooves in the end of the coupler , so it will tighen down on the pipe .

8MILLSNIPER007

I plan on building one of your pipes soon, it has just been so darn hot over here, my garage gets really hot and I try to keep things civil with my neighbors so I dont want to be out there at 11pm cutting and grinding if you know what I mean!

Jim and Eddie-
Thank you both for your input, I appreciate it!

8MILLSNIPER007

My dad seems to think that it is just the angle of the prop, but I know it has more issues than that.

chipbreakr

My Feedback: (1)

It's not your prop, I've been building homies for a long time , you raise that strut and set your pipe around 12" and it will sling that 482 or the 280 with ease . You should be in the 40's at least .

8MILLSNIPER007

Talked with Tony from WHH. He recommends that I keep the prop subsurface and go down to a X470 prop... I might try raising the drive/strut up just about as high as it will go and try the 280 prop and see what happens. I guess the reason why the Prather hull does not like a surface drive is because the way the strakes are designed. They are a sharp V with no flat on the bottom of them, This keeps the hull down in the water and prevents it from riding on top. Down the road I might take and shave the strakes down so that they have a flat on the bottom and then try running a surface drive setup.
I took the X482 and chucked it in the lathe and turned it down to 70mm, so basically this should be the same as a X470 am I right?

Jim- I know you are one of the best when it comes to Homelites, so I will try running the prop up higher and see what happens- I am just afraid the boat will not handle right setup as a surface drive- no disrespect to you, if it was any other hull I would definately run surface drive.

I start back to work tomorrow (friday) which is awesome, just wish the weather was about 60 deg. cooler. I will be working out in the middle of the desert where it is been getting into the 120s for awhile now! But it's good to be working again! Now I will be able to afford to buy myself a boat!

chipbreakr

My Feedback: (1)

Tony knows his stuff , try what you are talking about, if it improves and doesn't have any handling issues, then I would go surface drive . Where you are running a Homelite , it is somewhat heavier, so you might not have the handling issues like you would with a zenoah .

8MILLSNIPER007

I am so use to measuring straight pipes, I forgot that I need to add in the complete length of the header, so my pipe is good, it is set at 12-7/8. Talked to the designer of the pipe and was told that if the pipe did not have enough water running through it that it would drop performance up to 30%. I definately had a water pick up issue. Not sure if you are familiar with the way Prather has their pick up, they put it in the right side trim tab. I scrapped that and went with a homemade pick up that I mounted on the transom about a 1/2 inch from the keel

silverz98

id rather have the pick up in the rudder. or a prop blast pick up. every boat i ever tried a pick up off the back of the boat
made it run like crap. so if you still have problems might want to look in to that

8MILLSNIPER007

I wanted to go with a rudder pickup but they dont make one for the XP-2 drive. I figured I would try this first and then go to prop blast if I have to. Prop blast might be a pain with this drive though. I started to drill down the center of my rudder to do my own pickup but after I got through the bearing block the bit started to walk to the side, once that starts not much can be done to straighten it so I stopped drilling, still needed to go another 1-1/2" deeper then I could mill the pickups. I might buy another rudder or even make my own, it would be alot easier to drill the vertical hole before the angles are cut if you know what I mean.

silverz98

understand that. never liked toney rudders. but everything else i liked. here is a arrowmarine one, that you could replace with. with not alot of work
http://www.aeromarinerc.com/index.ph...d=86&Itemid=53

8MILLSNIPER007

Hey Eddie, thanks for that link! It does look like it would be really easy to adapt the aeromarine rudder to the XP-2 drive. Looks like you could just swap bearing blocks and would be good to go. Might have to shim the areomarine bearing block as it looks thinner but that is no biggie! The boat actually turns really good with the rudder it has now and I would imagine that as the speed increases the steering will only get more aggressive- I could be wrong about that, but seems to make sense to me. Now let me ask you guys this- when you have your water pick up in the rudder does it affect your water flow when you turn the boat? I was planning on milling one slot on both sides of the rudder both going to the same hole. I would imagine that you would want the slots offset (one side higher than the other) as the water will take the path of least resistance, I think if both slots were at the same level it might go in one side and out the other when turning or it might be fine.

silverz98

you can have pick up on bot sides, or just one and both water good. speed master puts there on the left side of the rudder. some time on them ill drill a hole on the right and channel it out so it picks up on both sides since most my running is in a right hand turn. the ones that have it on the right all ready i never really bothered with making it on left since i race right hand turns.

next time i down at grandpas ill gee if i might have a old arrowmarin rudder in the parts box.

8MILLSNIPER007

Ok, cool. Thanks Eddie!

6LQQKR2

My Feedback: (6)

Does anyone know of a source to get a custom made flex cable drive shaft for a Fun Cruiser? I am retrofitting a 26 cc Zenoah in my Cruiser and need a 1/4 " square end flex shaft soldered to a ferrell mating to a 3/16" stub shaft. The length needs to be 9-3/4 " overall.

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

Why don't you bore out your strut to 1/4" to accept a 1/4" stub shaft and you'll have more of a choice for props. You could also just get a strut that's made for a 1/4" prop shaft.I believe Warehouse Hobbies still makes custom drivelines if you have to go the 3/16" route.You could just buy the parts like the stub shaft ,ferrule and 1/4" flex shaft and make your own.If you don't like soldering ,use Loctite 648.I've used it on all the drivelines I've done and have never had a failure yet.