ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Wild guess, but thinking that might be the most popular opti switch available today.

-Al

Ernie Misner

Do you still use 2 switches with this setup? One for rx and one for ignition? I'm thinking of using 2 LIFE battries from Tower, the 1100mah, very light weight, one for rx and one for ignition.

Thanks,

Ernie

afjetmech

Your ingition will be controlled from the transmitter on an unused channel. You can use one battery for both if you get an ignition kill with an IBEC (ingition battery eliminator circuit). I use the one by Syssa. Love It and it saved me from flying around with a stuck throttle until my fuel ran out. The DLE 20's were prone to having the throttle butterfly come loose on the shaft. Mine did just that 2 minutes into my 3rd flight. Was stuck at about half throttle. Flew around a couple times, lined up on final and hit the switch. Floated right in for a perfect dead stick, right when and where I wanted it to.

Ernie Misner

Thanks a bunch, had been wondering exactly what IBEC stands for.

With the DLE (or Mintor 22cc) should I still use a voltage regulator for ignition when using a 6.6V LIFE battery?

Thanks,

Ernie

afjetmech

Most have an adjustable regulator built in. Check this link. http://www.syssaaircraft.net/cart/pc...5&idcategory=2

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Most IBEC's have adjustable voltage output. An opti switch run on 6.6 volts generally uses a diode on the output side to drop the voltage enough to safely supply the ign. module. Set up this way, you can use an opti switch the same way you would use an IBEC.

acdii

I use the Opti kill shown, and a 5V regulator

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Hmmm... Jody at the very first post has RPMs given for various props. Very similar to my Enya 120R or what I get with my Saito 125. A glow engine won't run with out the battery connected to the glow driver. UNLESS it's hot - there have been cases where they'll start up. A ignition will not run if the ignition is off, period. Why on earth would you be playing with any engine with the glow connected or the ignition switch on? Justify having an additional solid state switch all you want, but the primary safety circuit is between your ears.
John

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

That primary safety circuit fails fairly often? How many times have you seen hands stuck into props of a running engine for example? That's why back up plans are part of a good plan. Without an opti switch, all you need to do is forget to turn off your flight pack after returning the plane to the pits and you have a plane sitting there with a hot ignition. Bump the switch prepping for flight?

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Okay my last post on the subject. The same rational applies to any glow plug motor with an internal glow driver. I do not consider the switch a failure if it's not manually turned off. Guys do what you want - I simply do not consider it necessary on a 20cc motor that is properly set up. All my switches are push pull and all are off pushed in. In all my aircraft there is a voltwatch or other indicator that a switch is left on. Don't forget solid state switches can fail too. This forum is full of posts on the subject.

John

nomadmariner

Maybe as an idea to move forward there should be a form of optical switch for glow and electric. In other words a separate method for isolating motors with hand eating props. After all plenty of electric flyers have had their body parts chewed and they do not even restrain their planes when testing controls! 

Ernie Misner

Thanks for the links to the optical switches, voltage regualtors, etc. guys. Some of us are kinda new to gas and it's really helpful. BTW, shipping is free at Sassya right now I just found out, with an email to them. Their optical switch / regulator (all in one) is a little more expensive but must be top notch. On the other hand the badbradgraphics place's stuff is crazy cheap, no kidding and shipping on the small stuff 3 bucks.

Thanks again, you guys are the best. Must be LOTSA interest in the 20cc gassers nowadays whic is very cool. Maybe more 20cc planes will be in the offering too.

Ernie Misner

Fortyeight

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I would think that battery would work, the specs say it will, but have no experience with it myself. The A123 batteries like I'm using are the same/similar technology, and they work fine on my 20 and 30cc stuff in a single batt. setup. I'm not even using half of their capacity for a typical flying session.

That Ultra IBEC is simple, works great, but to toss a less expensive option out, the Rcexl Opti switch will work the same if a diode is installed on the output side of it to drop the voltage enough (.7v) to be safely used to power the ignition module. That setup is about half the cost of the Ultra IBEC? (switches are less than 20. and the diodes are .50 at Radio Shack) -Al

Fortyeight

New battery technology is amazing; I just haven’t been able to keep up with all the new varieties available.  I don’t want to buy anything that’s about to be obsolete.

Is the A123 newer than the LiFe? Which way is the battery trend going?

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I have about 4 years experience with that type of set up, and I have tracked power consumption. This type of set up used 20 mah per minute flying "warbird" style. Smooth passes and minimal control throws. The 20 mah per minute was very consistent. So, if you fly a 10 minute flight, likely you will use 200 mah, which is 10 percent of your capacity. Sounds like you would be okay with the setup. PM me if you need additional help or clarification.

nomadmariner

I can confirm lifer's report as I use the A123 2300mah battery in my cub. Just a single battery works fine and will give a good 6 flights of 10 to 15 minutes.

sandyjain

A123 and LiFe is the ssme thing....A123 is more to do with branding and LiFe is Lithium (Li) Iron (Fe) nano phosphate i.e.the chemistry of the cell.
They are here to stay till an easier to manage technology/ chemistry comes up. Life can be charged at 5C and do not have the exploding/ burning characteristics of LiPo (Lithium Polymer).
LiFe are a tad heavier per mah than LiPo BUT the easier handling more than makes up for that. Moreso they can be used with Rx without BEC as they give 6.6V over 80%+ of their life.This is another fact that makes them better - constant Voltage over 80% of their life.

More details can be found on wikipedia.....

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

If you're interested in coming up to speed regarding the newer type batteries, this might be a good read? (No BS batteries)

http://www.hangtimes.com/weightcompare.html

Fortyeight

Lots of great help and that was a good read.

Thank you,
Scott

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Does anyone know how many minutes this engine will run at full throttle on 1 ounce of fuel? I am trying to decide on my tank size.

nomadmariner

Yes nice article puts things into perspective quite well.

acdii

Not sure on one ounce, but on a 14 ounce tank I can get up to 30 minutes flying time at 1/2 to full throttle.Still breaking in the engine, so I dont fly full throttle all the time.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

So that's 1/2 an ounce a minute.

Ernie Misner

Sounds right since an 8oz. tank is more than enough for 20cc flights. Ain't gas nice?