izzy

Behotec c36-2 retacts and trailing legs

can anyone show me the correct sequence on assembling te trailing legs with the brakes and axle
currently i have an axle that came with the brakes, a washer and nut , the brake "disc" and the wheel hub
however , sees like i lock the hub and brake when tightening the axle
if anyone can pdf the instructions that should have come with the retarcs - even better - i found a set on altecare , but they are with the old type legs
i have the airtech trailing legs from germany and brakes

thanks

Craig B.

Watta ya talking about Dave.......a dining table IS a building bench!

Dave Wilshere

Izzy

Put some thread lock on the thread, screw in the axle bolt leaving a tiny amount of wheel free play, put the nut on and lock that against the leg.

Dave

Dave Wilshere

Err true, but even with the extension in its not really long enough for some of my projects I have a free flight plan I have wanted to build for sometime, so I can at least pin the wings to the table!

I have a Ripmax Hunter to finish before next Friday, so I can see a use for the table very soon

Dave

izzy

Dave thanks
what about the washer
where does that go

thanks

Dave Wilshere

Under the nut!

regards

Dave

cbooth1979

My Feedback: (22)

I believe there are a couple sets of axles that come with the latest AT struts. One set will fit and the others do not. Good luck

izzy

wheel wells
there are painted wells that are supplied with the kit , that they refer to cutting and fitting
the are u shaped , however they are deeper than the actual well in the wing

is anyone using them - these are not the covers that attached to the trailing legs , but the ones under neeath them, supposedly to make a neater install, however if i need to cut the lips as they are hi , then there is no place to glue them

tried to attach pics

Dave Wilshere

Most don't use them, but if you do they need the bottoms cutting off and the two clams fit between the top wing surface and lip.
They are from the CF model with a thicker wing!

Dave

Jame

If your worried about how itl look without them Izzy, you could always add a strip of either black vinyl or carbon effect decal to the same area, looks a little better than seeing the bare surface of the top wing skin, I've done this on my Classic and it just finishes it off nicely without the need for any cutting or glueing

Jame

miniman

Ok guys whats the trick in getting the top of the bypass to fit around the motor, and stay in place. Every time I get it into place one of the corners jumps up.

Once the bypass "fits" how do you get the two into one air input inplace ARRRGGGE [>:][:@]

The Motor came back for Motors and Rotors after being sent back to JetCAt for a service and Compresor change, Great Service from both companys.

Should have the Ultra Flash finished by the weekend, and get it flying at Long Marston on Sunday

Peter

izzy

front retract
what slot are you all using on the steering arm standoff that controls the front l gear leg

when tightening i mistakedly broke the standoff and i am left withjust the last slot

picture of steering arms is from the manual , however , mine have 1 slot on them left only !!

Dave Wilshere

Izzy

I normally use the outer most slot, but you will probably be OK with inner if you reduce the servo arm radius too. If you have clear silicon put some around the closed loop wire and steering arm with the gear down, let it set before retracting the gear. It stops the wires snagging

Dave

Robrow

With the lower half of the bypass in place fit the 2 into 1 joiner followed by the upper half of bypass, wrap around Velcro holds it in place.

Rob.

miniman

Thanks Rob, but its the bit that those instructions miss that is the problem.

I have fitted the half under the motor, and fitted the 2 into 1 joiner....

Then I cant get the other half of the cover to go into place. The fuel lines, power cable and motor mounts stop the cover sitting/mounting over the under cover.

I can get one side to fit, then the other springs out. It looks such an easy job in the pictures and your text, but it has taken me at least 3 hours!!

Perhaps I am trying to be too perfect.

Peter

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

Man, this was a tight fit !, but i have the smoke tanks in WITH the full bypass .. The intake duct had to be ground down at the side lip, and them i rejoined it with some carbon cloth. After all was in place, there is barely room left to squeeze the wires and plumbing by !

oh yea, also to anyone using these saddle tanks, MAKE SURE TO CUT DOWN the wing mounting bolts ... if too long, they will puncture into the tanks


~V~

indubitably

My Feedback: (14)

Just curious, - Why the holes in the bypass?

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

The JC Rhino has a FOD screen on it and the frame blocks off a lot of the gap at the inlet between the bypass. These cheater holes allow the bypassed area to suck more air in if needed. This also helps draw ambient air in from the fuselage keeping things cool.

I have found that on the ground I get more thrust out of a bypass set up with cheater holes. In the air, things change at speed im sure with more airflow through the intakes, but that's not possible for me to check , lol ..

Honestly, with the 37lbs pushing out of this thing, im sure not using a bypass at all would have not made a difference anyway ... I think a bypassed install is just cleaner and neater


~V~

Robrow

Ok, no sure why that is, maybe you have a rogue bypass molding? Just to be sure I timed a remove/install which took less than 10 seconds for both. Possibly my my install is not as neat?

Rob.

miniman

Hi Guys

Rob the only difference to your tidy fiting is the size of the turbine, the P120 fills much more of the space, but after a bit more trimming and refitting the top of the jet tube to give a little more space at the top, I now have the cover in place. I got a bit carried away with the dremel where I thought was stopping the cover fitting, hopefully that should not detract from the benifits of the enclosed bypass.

That said I am glad I dont have the saddle tanks in there as well.



Peter

Henk Visser

Hi Guys,

Where do you install the smoke tube?
Just behind the turbine in the thrusttube, or in the back @ the end of the thrusttube?

Any information or pictures would be great :-)

Regards, Henk

Robrow

I install mine at the rear of the engine, just drill a hole through the jetpipe carbon bell. Also found flattening the end of the tube into a wide slot shape also helps with the smoke production. Don't have access to my UF at the moment but will post pics later if needed, I'm sure plenty can post pics of what you need.

Rob.

Robrow

Yes, I think the Flash/UF was originally designed around the older 110 mm cased 80-120 size engines so you should be ok. I was quite surprised how much room there is with the 140 I'm using.

Fitting the saddle tanks was a bit of a challenge as others have found, only reason I have them is because I'm finding it difficult to kick the smoking habit

Rob.

izzy

Wow = great posts , and very informative
thanks guys
What i am really findinghard is trying to work from the instructions manual - a lots seems very vague
for example , fittine the main tank - it tells you to place a strip of 3mm balsa at the back of the tank, and then another to stop it from moing back
then to place a strip in the front and to add 3mm packers - and mentions this being very important step - but i read through and through and cant find out why
also how do you stop the tank from moving - velcro / dbl sided tape? silicone glue ?

the saddle tanks - i was hoping to use them instead of the wing tank , and then use the wing tank for smoke ,this way keep the fuel all in a closed system, and notworry about joing each time i take apart the wing - but not sure if to do this , any comments ?

Dave Wilshere

Izzy

The only reference is to have a balsa packer while the front retainer mounts are glued. This allows a small amount of fore/aft movement as the tank will expand over use and filling and if you have no gap to start with you will strain the tank!
It does not need 3mm, 1.5 to 2mm is OK.
I don't have the tanks held in any of my three Flash models, there is a tiny amount of free movement once you have had fuel in it. You could put some foam or small section of Velcro, but I don't think its needed.

Yes if you use the saddle tanks you won't have to split the fuel system...but it's no problem as the wing tank is always empty when the wing comes off and you purge/fill the lines each time you fill it.

Regards


Dave