Official HPI E-10 Thread
#676
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
I recently visited my local raceway and decided to try and enter the upcoming novice series with my e10 just to see if I like it and will want to buy a more race appropriate car further on. Everyone uses the same motor (tamiya Johnson) so that aspect of the upgrade is out of the question for the e10. I was just wondering what other upgrades might be wise to purchase. I have money for a lot of upgrades BUT being as its the novice class and just to see if I actually enjoy racing I'd like to spend as little money as possible. So far I have replaced everything with bearings and that's about it. I have the aluminum drive shaft ordered and the yeah racing steering set ordered as well. I was thinking about getting the shock tower to use regular shocks as opposed to the upgraded threaded hpi ones because they are a bit expensive. Although the shock towers and shocks would add up to the cost of just getting the hpi ones I like the idea of being able to use any shock, as I already have some lying around from an older nitro car. Any input would be appreciated and taken into consideration. Thank you
#677
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
shocks & tyres m8.... even a faster servo would help.... dont know about racing the E10???? there are better things out there....
with the motor out does it have much rolling resistance?
with the motor out does it have much rolling resistance?
#678
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
i just bought a used losi xxx-s roller on ebay actually that will hopefully be better than the e10 for racing but until i find the parts for it that it is missing im going to be using the e10. i was thinking about getting one the servos you mentioned in a recent previous post. as for tires i was probably going to wait and see what most people are using on the track and just go with that, its an indoor carpet track
#680
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
Greetings E10 owners! I have recently purchased the Ford GT LM RTR - with no other purpose but to see how well I can make a really cheap entry level RTR into a stout performer by adding every part under the sun and then some!!!
So far I have installed and/or ordered:
- Yeah racing short shaft and main shaft
- Yeah racing R/R upper/lower arms
- YR F/R knuckles
- YR steering
- Hot racing brake hexes
- Hot Racing shock towers
- HPI shocks
- Custom front to rear brace to get rid of the flex
- Added the 3 bearings in each diff (** Still need to shim the rear diff - 12x14mm shims on order)
- HPI rear spool
- HPI front one-way diff
- HPI steel CVD's
- HPI Motor mount
- HPI 2.4 radio (RF-40 in waterproof box)
- Traxxas 3500 BL motor
- HPI vapor waterproof ESC
- 5000mah 2S lipo
- SF-10W waterproof servo
- AAANDDDD - Hot Racing aluminum spur gear ( I KNEW this was going to be JUNK ) which failed miserably after 3/4 of a battery pack even after the most careful setup and ensuring the motor did not move any - I only purchased it so that I could devise a way to use the alloy hub and mount a proper plastic spur - WHICH I HAVE ACCOMPLISHED and it is the single best mod I have done to the car.
My next mods will include:
- Tamiya cockpit / chassis cover
- Aluminum or graphite / FRP custom chassis
- I may try the preload springs to make the stock rear diff LSD
I have now spent more on this car than I would have to get a wicked tricked out TT-01 or TC4, I also have a mostly stock TC4 rally car, so we shall see how it turns out.
Observations so far are that the car is actually a great deal better now that I have some of the upgrades on it - it does respond well to them vs. some other projects where no matter what they seem to be junk -
So far I have installed and/or ordered:
- Yeah racing short shaft and main shaft
- Yeah racing R/R upper/lower arms
- YR F/R knuckles
- YR steering
- Hot racing brake hexes
- Hot Racing shock towers
- HPI shocks
- Custom front to rear brace to get rid of the flex
- Added the 3 bearings in each diff (** Still need to shim the rear diff - 12x14mm shims on order)
- HPI rear spool
- HPI front one-way diff
- HPI steel CVD's
- HPI Motor mount
- HPI 2.4 radio (RF-40 in waterproof box)
- Traxxas 3500 BL motor
- HPI vapor waterproof ESC
- 5000mah 2S lipo
- SF-10W waterproof servo
- AAANDDDD - Hot Racing aluminum spur gear ( I KNEW this was going to be JUNK ) which failed miserably after 3/4 of a battery pack even after the most careful setup and ensuring the motor did not move any - I only purchased it so that I could devise a way to use the alloy hub and mount a proper plastic spur - WHICH I HAVE ACCOMPLISHED and it is the single best mod I have done to the car.
My next mods will include:
- Tamiya cockpit / chassis cover
- Aluminum or graphite / FRP custom chassis
- I may try the preload springs to make the stock rear diff LSD
I have now spent more on this car than I would have to get a wicked tricked out TT-01 or TC4, I also have a mostly stock TC4 rally car, so we shall see how it turns out.
Observations so far are that the car is actually a great deal better now that I have some of the upgrades on it - it does respond well to them vs. some other projects where no matter what they seem to be junk -
#681
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: rx7devil210
I just blew my third spur gear out lol even on drift tires... Yea im running the aluminum motor mount from hot racing. what should i do?? Anyone else having problems blowing out their spur gear? Help would be nice thanks.
[/quote
Ok well a lot of people have posted about stripping spurs and I will say that there are two problems for sure:
1) the stock motor mount is crap - you can get the HPI alloy mount (I have it) but it is only marginally better as it uses the same stupid "cam" style adjuster which is a joke - the Hot-Racing one looks like it uses regular slots by and oif so will give you much better (more positive) mounting, I will verify this soon enough and then most likely get one -
2) the Hot racing aluminum spur (AND the stupid metric stock cheese spur)is GARBAGE - I knew this and only bought the HR one with the intention of removing the spur and mounting a proper plastic spur ( like a Robinson or Kimbrough) to the alloy hub / shaft drive assy...
Here is what I did - (BTW I did contact H-R and got no response from them about spur gear problems and the possibility of using a plastic one)
I found that the H-R spur had a 3 bolt pattern which in fact lined up to some of the holes in a Kimbrough gear (gear designed for ball diffs) - the issue is the large hole in the HR mounting hub - so I used a reamer to ream the hole slowly till it fit snugly and then needed to countersink the screw holes in the gear and it bolted on.
I used a 72 tooth spur and the smallest pinion that will now work is 23 teeth but am now running 25t which is just great with the Traxxas 3500 torque monster.
As I said before this is the best mod ever! The car is so smooth and after a couple battery packs there is no sign of the mesh changing or any noticeable wear.
As a side note I did previously manage to use a Robinson machined gear too but had to drill my own holes and could only use 2 screws, this ran fine for a couple packs too (even smoother) but I figured that 3 screws was a wothwhile tradeoff.
I feel that the gear mesh issue is a multi-faceted problem -
1) the mtr mount is not solid
2) even after you install a better mount (the HPI one) the chassis itself will flex, allowing small changes in mesh under torque
3) the stock and H-R gears are CRAP
4) the whole car is obviously made to handle the 27t brushed motor just fine so it needs upgrades to handle much more
5) since the car is entry level, the people running / fixing the car are not generally as good at spotting / avoiding / fixing problems
#685
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
I have now discovered that the TC3 nitro (NTC3) second gear 32p spur is a direct fit to the hot racing spur gear mount, 32p gears will greatly improve things as the small changes in mesh will make less difference.
Use a 48t spur and about a 15-18t pinion
Use a 48t spur and about a 15-18t pinion
#689
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
i saw some youtube video,s that were post about a month ago with e10,s with ezrun 4300kv systems and they were pretty fast im thinking about getting a new motor in the 5000kv to 7000kv range to run 2s im just wondering will the e10 hold up to 40mph speeds thats my goal with this car
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
hey all
im not new to the hobby, but its been a while, i had a RS4 nitro back in high school, and now that my real race car is down on build, i decide to buy one of this to have some fun.
i bought a E10 Drift RTR ford mustang
upgrades
camber arms
s15 body
2 sets of wheels
lock rear diff
i think i mess up my motor because i did not know what i was doing and set up the mesh wrong and put too much stress on the motor so now my e10 is slower at take off compare to all my friends ( they all got the same e10)
here are some pics
#692
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
Hey people, thought I would post and update on my E10 - I am currently running a 9T (4300KV) ezrun brushless setup on touring car slicks, I get about 3-10 runs on each diff pinion before it shears off (no longer stripping the teeth because I shimmed my diffs) but the plastic "ears" on the diff pinion that the driveshafts slide into will shear off regularly - I tried the aluminum center driveshafts but that worsened the problem so here is what I came up with.
I had heard rumors that the slash 4x4 rear diff pinions will fit, I decided to try it - well they do fit although they are 13t vs. the 15t E10 gear - this amazingly still works and meshes smoothly as long as you shim appropriately - you need to use the aluminum F/R center driveshafts and you need to dremel a slot for the drive pins in the driveshafts to slide into - don't worry, once installed the pinion bearing will hold the pin captive so it cannot come out due to centrifugal force.
I will try to post pics of this, but if done correctly I cannot see anymore stripped gear issues.
I had heard rumors that the slash 4x4 rear diff pinions will fit, I decided to try it - well they do fit although they are 13t vs. the 15t E10 gear - this amazingly still works and meshes smoothly as long as you shim appropriately - you need to use the aluminum F/R center driveshafts and you need to dremel a slot for the drive pins in the driveshafts to slide into - don't worry, once installed the pinion bearing will hold the pin captive so it cannot come out due to centrifugal force.
I will try to post pics of this, but if done correctly I cannot see anymore stripped gear issues.
#693
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
Humm I'm interested in that mod, please do post up,
U coud allways use that for a overdrive/counter steer drift setup too
U coud allways use that for a overdrive/counter steer drift setup too
#694
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
ORIGINAL: phmaximus
Humm I'm interested in that mod, please do post up,
U coud allways use that for a overdrive/counter steer drift setup too
Humm I'm interested in that mod, please do post up,
U coud allways use that for a overdrive/counter steer drift setup too
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#696
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
ORIGINAL: angus5
Yes but that would require the rear to be a taller gear no? The probelm is I break the rear pinion 3 to 1 vs. the front one...
ORIGINAL: phmaximus
Humm I'm interested in that mod, please do post up,
U coud allways use that for a overdrive/counter steer drift setup too
Humm I'm interested in that mod, please do post up,
U coud allways use that for a overdrive/counter steer drift setup too
I think u have sold me on the idea, looks simple enough, simple swap over with some light cutting.
Hey how well does the shaft centre? ive noticed the Alloy shaft has alot of play in the stock pinion.
#698
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
Here is a little update on mine, I havent done a whole lot new, im running the same spec ESC, just different brand and ive gone up to 4300kv motor from 3900kv and ive lowered the gearing from 34t pinion to 24t, still havent got around to Drilling the holes for the front swaybar, But im now using the Traxxas TQi 5ch controller, and ive set telemerty on a few other cars, but i think the e10 will be next. im planning for motor temp and battery voltage for now
#699
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
I am running different gearing since I switched to 48P - I used a hot racing aluminum spur gear and hub, threw out the alooy gear and installed a custom drilled 48P plastic spur - the first HR alloy spur lasted one run!
I have also determined the NTC3 spur gear is a direct fit, no drilling, it is 32P.
I have also determined the NTC3 spur gear is a direct fit, no drilling, it is 32P.
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
ORIGINAL: phmaximus
Here is a little update on mine, I havent done a whole lot new, im running the same spec ESC, just different brand and ive gone up to 4300kv motor from 3900kv and ive lowered the gearing from 34t pinion to 24t, still havent got around to Drilling the holes for the front swaybar, But im now using the Traxxas TQi 5ch controller, and ive set telemerty on a few other cars, but i think the e10 will be next. im planning for motor temp and battery voltage for now
Here is a little update on mine, I havent done a whole lot new, im running the same spec ESC, just different brand and ive gone up to 4300kv motor from 3900kv and ive lowered the gearing from 34t pinion to 24t, still havent got around to Drilling the holes for the front swaybar, But im now using the Traxxas TQi 5ch controller, and ive set telemerty on a few other cars, but i think the e10 will be next. im planning for motor temp and battery voltage for now