NobodyFamous

Just for fun, not sure what the setup was in this picture, I think it was a T180A esc, Feiago 540XL, and stock drive line/prop

tebbsyboy

Hahaha - nice photo. That looks like not long before the driveline broke... And good to see you've got the young fella all kitted out in case he accidentally goes in. Or have you got him swimming for your boats now....?!!

NobodyFamous

The kids arejacketedup so I don't have to watch them as close. Mom is around too.Here are a couple more.

NobodyFamous

do what I say, not what I do. . . "Never swim for a boat"

tebbsyboy

Somehow in my mind, Canada = Snow = Bl**dy Cold Water!!! hahaha Rather you than me fella. Luckily I'll be using my boat with my dad and he's got a sit-on kayak. Much more civilised... Of course he's also into RC Yachts (Marblehead class) so there might be something of a clash in cultures there, but I'm hopeful...

F1madness

tebbsyboy

tebbsyboy

F1madness, thanks for the update! Fortunately I had already set my mind on the Swordfish 200+ and have one on the water from OSE now. I had previously thought the Turnigy 180 might do the trick, but the Swordfish just seemed to have a bit more. Data logging will be really useful I reckon.

Anyways when all my parts finally get here and I get something on the water I'll be posting some pictures and (hopefully) some video and stats. Really exciting!! Thanks all for your great information and hints.

almaidah

wow i just ran my genesis t180 m445 prop 4074 2200kv on 4s and it was fast and smooth on the water now i need a few 3s packs so i can run 5s on this thing. i just wanted to let everyone know that this is a nice setup after getting past the few problems i had so thank you guys for all the help that has been given to me through this struggle

tebbsyboy

Hey I'm looking to get the wiring ready for when my boat arrives and I have a couple of questions. My intention is to recable with 10awg all through and 5.5mm bullet connectors. The batteries I am looking to go with (Turnigy) already come with 5.5mm connectors but have 8awg cable. I gather there is no problem leaving this more sturdy cable in place while using 10awg everywhere else?

Otherwise I was considering recabling right through with 8awg. This seemed somewhat excessive, but may provide better resilience. Does anyone see a problem with using the heavier grade of cable? My first though was that it would be more unwieldy and awkward to place. Has anyone tried this?

And finally, construction of a parallel splitter cable. Can 'Y' connectors be purchsed to more easily split the cables? I have a 10awg parallel cable already coming, but was wondering about making my own if I needed to. How has everyone else done this?

NobodyFamous

I didn't upgrade any of my wires, but I am cheap and lazy! I may have to down the road. here is a pic of my wye conectors I whipped up with what I had around. I need to get a spool of good silicone wire - some day, maybe for Christmas.

tebbsyboy

Nice job NobodyFamous!! It don't look too shabby and I'm sure it works just fine. In case you ever decide on a bit of a 'do-over' check out these links to useful bits on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251061903036...036%26_rdc%3D1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330778257514...84.m1439.l2649

Dunno whether either are budget breakers, but looked like useful start points

tebbsyboy

Hey I'm looking to run bigger water piping in my (recently arrived) Genesis. I'm going with silicone pipe with outer diameter of 7.0mmand looking to find a fitment to allow the line run from the rudder, through the top deck and into the hull. There is currently a small diameter (5mm?) metal grommet there at the moment. I am afraid if I drill that out to 7mm itmightjust fall off.

Has anyone tried to drill this grommet out? Did that work and if not what did you use to replace it? Some sort of 7.0mm internal diameter grommet type thingy (anyone know what they are called?) glued to the top deck might do the trick. I have been unable to find such a thing. Has anyone else gone down this route and if so does anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

baadebygger

Hey guys. Im a newbie in powerboating. Ive just bought the new R2hobbies 36´hull Twin Cat.

Got two Turnigy 3126 - (same as tested with the T180 on hobbyking).

Now i need two octura m642 left/right,they were awwsoomee fast in the T180 test. But dont know where to buy them in Europe??

rnkeng

Gents,
A few notes/observations based on previous Genesis posts. On my buddies Genesis which is running completely stock with original prop using (2 parallel) Sky Lipo 4400 4S 40C batteries, the exact condition previously described where the bullet connectors get so hot they desolder has occured. (1) Examining the original soldering on the connectors it IS poor to say the least, so have re-soldered all connectors & we'll see where it goes from here. (2) On the prop change issue....the OEM prop shaft is a 4mm (.15748"), all (most..90%) of the props I see listed on Offshore's site are 3/16" (.1875", 4.7635 mm), what is everybody doing about the shaft O.D. difference as bviously a 3/16 prop on a 4mm shaft is going to slop around? (3) Water leaks....Genesis is taking on considerable water, up prop shaft(??) as previously posted. What has everybody done on this issue? (4) Motor & ESC temperature, both get uncomfortably hot. Has anyone made changes to cooling system concerning this? Have recently purchased an EagleTree V4 data logger & Power Panel, with GPS & brushless RPM sensor & used it on my modified SV27 & the Genesis. I enclosed it all in an project box as I haven't waterproofed it yet (125 grams..yeah HEAVY, I know). It showed max speed at 35.7 mph, max current at 97.76 amps, high RPM at 30k. Attached is JPG of graphed output (minus motor RPM). As always, your input is appreciated...Thanks.

Rick

Well cancel the JPG attachment, can't get the file to upload, anyway max values are quoted above.

rnkeng

Ooooopppsss, sorry all. Guess the files DID upload so have 5 of the same file. It didn't show in the preview, so I didn't think it went correctly. Now I know (I guess).

NobodyFamous

4s is too much for the stock system.  The Stock system is also truly undersized for the hull.  It is fine if you want to putt around on 3s all day, but to get any speed out of it you need to upgrade to at least a 40 series motor (40mm dia.)

rnkeng

Thanks Nobody........Went with a 4S, 14.8 volt (with 120A HobbyWing ESC) as specs on a XK3674-B-1900KV list it at 14.8v, BUT the original HK post says "Motor: 36-74Size 2075kv Watercooled Brushless Inrunner". Hhhhmmmmmm "36-74Size"...a knock off without the same spec?? Just recently reviewed the postings concerning the 4mm to 3/16 change. Thanks much for your reply.

NobodyFamous

any 36mm dia. motor will be too small for the Gen.  I killed the stock one, and a feigo 36mm one as well. Both run too hot and will die.

tebbsyboy

Hey there rnkeng, Yeah I'm building a Gen as well but haven't even made the water yet... I took onboard (pun) the comments from peeps on this forum, notably NobodyFamous and F1madnessand have ripped out all of the stock running gear before doing a thing. F1madnesshas a lot of detail about a boat on page 4 of this forum and that spec is very similar to the one I am going to run (leopard 4074,2000kv and swordfish 200 amp esc with etti capbank,on 5s,M445 prop,4mm cooling lines).

The leopard motors seem to be the one to go for (quality vs cost is excellent) and I personally like thespecs of the upgraded swordfish 200+ exc, which includes data logging. I see you already have that option, but this is integrated, so no extra weight. Both are avaialble from www.ose.com. 4mm ID cooling seems like a must for me - securing clips can be found on eBay and oversized bulk head rings (for where the hose passes through the aft deck) can be custom made by Johnny at www.horracing.com- they are not on the product list, but he offered to make some at the same cost as the 6.6mm ID ones. I got some, they rock!!

With regards water ingress, I have already epoxied the stuffing shaft on mine. When I received the boat I could SEE through the sealant between the stuffing tube and the hull, so water would definately have gotten through there. And I am in the process of upgrading the stock flex shaft with a 3/16 drive from OSE (ta for the heads upon that NobodyFamous). Itlooks like being a tighter fit and any gaps will be plugged with marine grease.

If you want your boat to run fairly quick and relaiably - by that I mean cool - the modsabove seem obligatory. There are a number of videos on YouTube detailing bigger (and more expensive) builds but the one above should run 4S, 5S and even 6S. I am batteried up for all of these and have motors at 1600kV (and an upgrade 2000kV) to really see what shakes loose. I can't wait for the Summer!! Hope some of that helps.

rnkeng

Tebbysboy... Thanks for your input, it's greatly appreciated. Not sure if my buddy is going to want to put another $250+ more into the boat on the motor & ESC. Guess we'll just wait for the current one to fry & go from there. Unfortunately, I gave him the boat as a gift, so feel rather obligated in the matter.

Will definitely look at the stuffing tube closely & probably just epoxy it to be sure. On the 4mm-3/16" issue, I did find a couple 4mm to 3/16" shim adapters at:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/sea...e=&scat=&sman=

and

http://www.funrcboats.com/Prather-Propellers.aspx

So there might be an interim measure before changing the flex shaft, which no doubt is the wisest long term solution. On the cooling issue the larger I.D. lines make alot of sense, but am leary of rudder water pickups, as I know on my SV27 it worked OK until high speed, then did little, which was not exactly the time for a lack off cooling, so am considering changing the type of pickup completely.

Fortunately down here in FL, we don't worry much about winter, more the opposite as the summer heat becomes oppresive, and winter is the preferred season. Anyway, thanks to all for your input & assistance.

tebbsyboy

Hey there rnkeng, yeah the cost does rather spiral up and outa control when you look at replacing the stock parts. Ijust figured it was worth it to avoid potentially getting all organised and then having a big failure and getting disappointed. And in truth it is a lot of fun hunting down the right bits and fitting them in!!

Firstly water pickups, I've not heard of any issues with this on the Genesis- and some peeps have had theirs up to some pretty good speeds. It would seem that this is one area that works really well, so I'm not going to mess with it. There is one boat on this forum with additional pickups (see the post by madnesss on page 4) and they seem to work. However all the other boats seem to have stuck with rudder pickup and working well. To my knowledge anyway.Ijust think bigger hoses can't hurt...

To keep the costs down it would make sense to stick with the existing motor and esc until they give up. If you don't over stress them it might be all good. One thing that was suggested by NobodyFamouswas to remove and regrease the flex cable. That should certainly make it rotate more freely and may well sort out the issue of water ingress.

And I would forget about playing around with 3/16 props - too difficult to get them balanced at the sort of revs we are taliking about. 4mm props are available from HobbyKing. I would suggest the following:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...P1_4_3x3_.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._P1_2_M4_.html

These are all CNC, so pretty well balanced out of the box - much better at high revs - and come made for the 4mm shaft. I believe the stock prop is a 38mm, so propping up to 40mm will give you a bit more speed, as will the 42mm with less pitch. I don't think these will over stress the motor, but I have never tried the stock running gear.

Any comments from other members who might have tried this??

rnkeng

Well we ran my buddies stock Genesis again Thursday on the 4S 40C batteries & again melted the solder off the motor side of the bullet connectors. Did this 3 times & re-soldered each time, ALWAYS though on the motor side NOT the ESC side. Ran it on 3S batteries & all was OK, while the speed was certainly down, the heat was marginal. Examaining the motor wiring it IS quite small in diameter (like 14 ga.), and may account for why the solder melts on this side as the current (97 amps measured into ESC) into these smaller gauge conductors generates too much heat. Am thinking that even going to larger bullets will just result in burning the input wiring to the motor. Was wondering if it was feasible to replace the input wiring in the motor with 10 or 12 ga. wire. Has anyone been into or tried getting into the stock 3674 motor??

john_j

Hello
The solderings are usually the weak link.A poor soldering will lead to melting.
Upgrade your bullet connectors to 5.5mm and solder with lead free solder.That will hopefully solve your problem.
The Genesis is a big boat, is a good ideea to upgrade to a larger motor (like 40 series from Leopard).
Regards

NobodyFamous

36mm motors are just too small for the genesis, and 4s is too much for it.  You can try upgrading the wire size, but you will just make the motor the weaker part and it will fail.  My advice, enjoy getting to know the boat at 3s, and order up a nice 40mm leopard.

rnkeng

John_J.......Thanks for the thought in changing solder types, as I have been using a "normal" 60/40 Tin Lead based solder. As far as my soldering capabilities, I have worked in broadcast & electronics repair for over 30 years and am extremely competent at soldering, so don't believe the quality of the solder joints is an issue, but as I said didn't think about changing solder to something with a higher melting point, and will change the bullets to 5.5 mm (which ar 4mm now). I have also considered that even changing the motor leads to 10 ga., I would merely be allowing current to more efficiently flow into the motor & probably creating MORE heat, which is certainly a weak spot. Changing the leads may amount to just allowing the motor to burn up quicker and more efficiently. The point is certainly taken from yourself & NobodyFamous about the motor size, but as mentioned can't force my buddy to upgrade the motor as it is a considerable investment. Again, thanks to ALL for your input.