Platt Zero Build Thread
09-30-2012, 08:19 PM
#53
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RE: Platt Zero Build Thread
Hi Nergall,
Where-ever you have panel lines (flush panel lines, overlapping is a bit different), you apply the chart-pak tape along those lines. It's a little tricky to work with at first, but just take your time and make sure you have a very sharp blade (I use a scalpel). As you get to each corner, just go a little past it and trim it with the knife. Note that you don't want to cross the tape. Where tape meets (like in a + for example), cut to each side of one of the lines so that the tape is level and flush. I didn't do this my first time and it caused problems when I later went to sand and remove the tape. It can also cause the primer to get up under the tape and cause it to react with the adhesive and bubble up a bit.
Once the tape is applied, just shoot the primer over it and overlap a couple of inches or so. Note that the overlap will pretty much happen on it's own if you are using rattle can primer since it goes on with a fairly large spray pattern. If you are using an airbrush just make sure you don't cause a sharp "bump" around your tape or you will notice it when you sand and paint. You'll need to spray at-least a few cotes (or more depending on what type of primer you are using). Keep in mind that the primer will build up on the tap as well as the surface around it, so don't try to keep spraying until you can't see the tape or you'll wind up with 1/2" of primer on it.
Once done, you'll need to sand down to where you can see the top of the tape. I use wet sanding for this but that's up to you. I use 220 (gently) then 320 grit. Once you have sanded to the point where your tape is showing, then clean everything up real good and start pulling the tape out. It's a bit tricky at first, just make sure you have something with a really small tip. I use a dental tool or the scalpel, but to each their own. Keep in mind that sometimes the tape will pull apart and you won't get it all. Look at the tape after you pull each strand and if you see where it looks thinner or you only see a clear section, that means you have left some in the indention. Just grab the end and gently pull out.
That's pretty much it. This is one of those things that can be a little tricky at first, but once you get the hang of it.. it really isn't hard at all. However, I would try it on something other than your plane first just to get a feel for it.
I'm sure others have some other good techniques here as well, so I'm looking forward to seeing what I could be doing better.
Later,
Russ
Where-ever you have panel lines (flush panel lines, overlapping is a bit different), you apply the chart-pak tape along those lines. It's a little tricky to work with at first, but just take your time and make sure you have a very sharp blade (I use a scalpel). As you get to each corner, just go a little past it and trim it with the knife. Note that you don't want to cross the tape. Where tape meets (like in a + for example), cut to each side of one of the lines so that the tape is level and flush. I didn't do this my first time and it caused problems when I later went to sand and remove the tape. It can also cause the primer to get up under the tape and cause it to react with the adhesive and bubble up a bit.
Once the tape is applied, just shoot the primer over it and overlap a couple of inches or so. Note that the overlap will pretty much happen on it's own if you are using rattle can primer since it goes on with a fairly large spray pattern. If you are using an airbrush just make sure you don't cause a sharp "bump" around your tape or you will notice it when you sand and paint. You'll need to spray at-least a few cotes (or more depending on what type of primer you are using). Keep in mind that the primer will build up on the tap as well as the surface around it, so don't try to keep spraying until you can't see the tape or you'll wind up with 1/2" of primer on it.
Once done, you'll need to sand down to where you can see the top of the tape. I use wet sanding for this but that's up to you. I use 220 (gently) then 320 grit. Once you have sanded to the point where your tape is showing, then clean everything up real good and start pulling the tape out. It's a bit tricky at first, just make sure you have something with a really small tip. I use a dental tool or the scalpel, but to each their own. Keep in mind that sometimes the tape will pull apart and you won't get it all. Look at the tape after you pull each strand and if you see where it looks thinner or you only see a clear section, that means you have left some in the indention. Just grab the end and gently pull out.
That's pretty much it. This is one of those things that can be a little tricky at first, but once you get the hang of it.. it really isn't hard at all. However, I would try it on something other than your plane first just to get a feel for it.
I'm sure others have some other good techniques here as well, so I'm looking forward to seeing what I could be doing better.
Later,
Russ
09-30-2012, 08:57 PM
#54
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RE: Platt Zero Build Thread
Thanks for the info!
I'm working on a warbird now, and it will be my first attempt at glassing a plane. Not sure I want to go this far or not, I'll be happy if the thing doesn't come out too heavy.
I'm working on a warbird now, and it will be my first attempt at glassing a plane. Not sure I want to go this far or not, I'll be happy if the thing doesn't come out too heavy.
10-21-2012, 06:22 PM
#56
RE: Platt Zero Build Thread
I finished glassing and priming this week.
Now I have a few last tasks before color coat:
1. draw the panel lines
2. lay down the chart tape
3. more primer
4. wet sand
5. pull the chart tape
6. hours of rivet marking
6. paint it aluminum rustoleum
I also have a few final body scaleing items. Not sure if i'll use the amunition hatch molded plastic bits and various hatches. I will make some of these shapes with flight metal before final priming.
Here's some photos with the cockpit kit taped in to check fit and see how cool it's gonna look. I am really pleased!
-Regards
-Skip
Now I have a few last tasks before color coat:
1. draw the panel lines
2. lay down the chart tape
3. more primer
4. wet sand
5. pull the chart tape
6. hours of rivet marking
6. paint it aluminum rustoleum
I also have a few final body scaleing items. Not sure if i'll use the amunition hatch molded plastic bits and various hatches. I will make some of these shapes with flight metal before final priming.
Here's some photos with the cockpit kit taped in to check fit and see how cool it's gonna look. I am really pleased!
-Regards
-Skip
10-21-2012, 06:31 PM
#58
RE: Platt Zero Build Thread
Are you going to weather the cockpit or are you going to leave it pretty....I like it the way it is but if you are going to weather the aircraft, you may want to show some wear on the cockpit too.
Just my thoughts....I've done it both ways..
Just my thoughts....I've done it both ways..
12-11-2012, 08:17 PM
#64
My Feedback: (101)
RE: Platt Zero Build Thread
Just so you know and me may not want to do this to simulate some weathering. When I use the A,. Rustoleum on my warbirds and then paint over it with another color, I will wipe it down with a dry cloth to remove the sheen to help with adhesion. I have done this with my TFGS P47 and Byron p51. I have the smae kit framed up and ready for detail so I am watching
01-19-2013, 02:15 PM
#68
RE: Platt Zero Build Thread
I was in Pensacola last week and got a chance to take some pix of the zero in the Navy Air museum...
A curator there, who is a retired Navy pilot, said he would try to get me some photos of the inside of the cockpit. I hope he can!
A curator there, who is a retired Navy pilot, said he would try to get me some photos of the inside of the cockpit. I hope he can!
01-20-2013, 10:26 AM
#71
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KY
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RE: Platt Zero Build Thread
Looks like your pictures are of an A6m2 with the late war Navy green scheme. Yes the navy used both grey and green,as the Army didnt fly Zeros. They flew Oscars. If you can get your hands on one of the aerodetail books it has several good pictures of the cockpit.
01-21-2013, 01:10 PM
#72
RE: Platt Zero Build Thread
ORIGINAL: OldScaleGuy
Who made the landing gear? I have a hunch they are Dave Platt, that is exactly what mine did. Great flight.
Nice field except for that killer fence.....
Nice field except for that killer fence.....
