Slow Low

Build to fly, not to crash!? Hey maybe that's what I've been doing wrong.... ;S

Props4ever

I know Paul but if you go back into the thread ans see earlier pictures posted, you will see why I have to reinforce these bays. Presently rails have been held through slotted two 1/8" ply formers in each bay and after these years of building, moving around the model one of the formers broke couple nights ago!. You will see it when you scroll through older pictures poster earlier. As for the weight, I have more then enough power from 4 x .55sx electric motors turning 13x8 3 blade MS props....

Props4ever

You know, it's never a bad idea to somewhat over build a bit at these strategic area.....How are you, haven't seen you around in few months now, hope all is good on ur end James...

iron eagel

Sometimes you have to accept that a given stress point is going to fail despite you best efforts to overbuild (something I have learned over the years) just make it easy to replace...
As far as gear and support failure, it's more often been my hard landings that have been a issue when something broke.

Props4ever

Well Paul, all the planes can crash but we have to do our best in prevention that they don't crash and if they do, depending how they crash, damage is minimal my friend. What i'mm giving this plane is extra insurance and security plus peace in my mind.

It's a big plane, so i'm sure it can take on some extra weight and not even feel it.....designed for 4 forty size glow motors and now electric powered by 4 Fifty five size motors!!!!.......She'll go to the moon with this power on her wings...

Props4ever

Left side is now ready for gluing and CF Application. Starting to build right side now....had to take a break due to back issues starting once again...

iron eagel

Just picking on you for building a "lead sled" Sam, LOL.

Props4ever

Aren't all oldies propliners fall in this precise category when it comes to giant scale......lol

Props4ever

Question?

On mains i'm using Robart HD 630 series retracts with custom made struts.
On air cylinder of this retract there is a air nipple fitting at the front and one on it's side for actuation. Now problem I'm facing is, once rails and reinforcement side plates are glued in and retracts are installed, there will be no way to access to this nipple on the side of the cylinder. I'm going to run it's air-line tube under and round the retract on to other side so they can be run in though the wing and out the center top of the wing, into fuselage where retract distribution air valve will be.

So is this normal do to when installing these retracts as I did on on my model or do you guys make a access to get to this side nipple and air-line tube?

Boomerang1

Yeah, not the best bit of design, are they?

I just notch the supporting rail where the nipple is located so that the air line
is not jammed against the rail.

I leave enough extra air line on them so I can remove them & work on them
without disconnecting any lines.

They are tough & reliable although you will break a trunion on that noseleg
if you make a real mess of the landing. Still, easier than trying to fix a ripped
out retract. Just 5 mins replacing the trunion & you would be good to go again.

- John.

Props4ever

Last week our local news paper did an interview on this model's progress as they remember how and when and why this project was started back in 2006, so last night I found this beautiful article on there website.

Love to share it with you all. It's really great knowing that after all the hard work over the years on this model, I get appreciated and recognized this way, this is 4th paper in last 1 month who published my model, other 3 were local Canadian-Pakistani newspapers....

http://www.mississauga.com/community...ntrolled-model


Can't wait to fully complete this bird in-time for maiden flight at the end of this month.....

Props4ever

First major servo is dry fitted in the center top of the center wing section, this is Hitec HS 785HB "Sail servo" to function both flaps on this model.

Initially i placed servo where it suited best to be installed, then, drew a outline with silver sharpie marker, then used HD x-acto knifes to cut off the layering of fiberglass skin. After this a pocket was made by removing the foam with x-acto knife once again. Then servo is dry fitted in this pocket and it fits nice and level. Next is to make mounting bracket or blocks out of hardwood to securely and snugly mount the servo on it with it's screws. The nyrods that I bought earlier were of smaller thickness then needed for point hinges to be attached to one end, Hopefully I will get bigger size nyrods and install then after making channels in the wing structure first. There will be 2 nyrods pushing out and pulling in each flap panel. I have found 6" servo CF arm on HK site that I have ordered to be made into Flaps servo arm for nyrods to be hooked up to. This arm will push out and pull in 3" length of the nyrods for full flaps operation.

2nd phase will be to make a jig with 2 ling 1/4" brass tubes mounted on a specific angle, this jig will help on making 2 holes at both end frames of each flap bay for CF telescopic sliding rods to be glued into the wing structure. Once these rods are glued in, they will push flaps out at straight and level angle from both ends while aluminum flaps slider in the middle of the each flap will be tilting the flap out and in down position. The rotation of this slider will be done by a pin that will be installed in the curve slot of this tilting flap's slider.

I'm sure some of you must be lost on this fowler flaps mechanism, but once i do start doing it and will try to post the pictures as i go along, you folks will understand it properly and it will all make sense in the end....

Props4ever

Didn't liked how center wing sections surface finished turned out the first time, juss wasn't right for my liking, so it was re-sanded, few ports filled and re glazed with auto glazing putty. Will get wet sanded with 400 grit wet/dry paper on a block to get perfect smooth finish, then re prime and re-paint in two colors this time!.

Metallic aluminum "Metallic from Krylon paint systems"

Light gray on all nacelles along with wing sections behind them both top and bottom on nacelles only as rest of the bottom on center wing will have 6oz layer of carbon fiber.

Props4ever

Well for last couple nights I have been refinishing the upper surface of the center wing section, it's amazing when you think it's body work is done and you shoot a coat light coat or two of the primer, what still shows through!. It's a long tedious process but finally it's come to end with me after going over more then few times and filling this spot or that with auto glazing putty......Presently is set to dry up int he warm ambient temperature of the house, next will be another coat of primer on the glazed spots and then painting time!!!!

Props4ever

Maiden delayed...

I had picked up a date to do the maiden at the end of the month but due to non arrival of HK shipment in time, I have postponed this date further into mid to end of November. This will also give me good time to install all the electrical components in the plane and then do vigorous ground testing of all the systems to my satisfaction before the day come for her to take off, fly around and land back safely.....

Props4ever

Flaps, Flaps.....once again!!!

I have been thinking on when to add CF skin on center wing's bottom as that's the only section left to do in terms of construction, rest is all come except for few small things and then installation of all electrical components and retracts and there air-line set up. So tonite, i'm going to start working once again on adding flower flaps in one of 2 flaps bays, this will take couple of days to do as i'll be making a special jig or fixture to make 2 identical angled, length, diameter holes on each side of the flap bay for telescopic CF sliding rods could be mounted and then hooked up to the LE of the flap panel.

The function of these rods is to carry flap panels out to TE of the wing in straight angle and then pull back in the bay. It's the sliding aluminum actuator in the middle of the bay that will slide on a pin at a location on rear spar for it to pivot as flaps are pushed out and then retracted.. Retraction will be done by 2 nyrods hooked up to Hitec Sail servo that will turn 180 degrees in each direction to push and pull in these flap panels width of the bays that is 3" wide.

Props4ever

Who can guess how many more pages will be filled on here before the maiden flight?

Lets see who has good guesstimate.....

Props4ever

First channel in the wing was made last night, then first set of telescopic slider CF rods ere dry placed in the channel. I made channel by using razor saw and not by heating up a brass tube and burning into the foam.
CF sleeve is 2.5" in length and the main sliding CF rod is 6-3/8" long!. I couldn't make longer length of sleeve tube longer due to outboard end of the center wing section. Will do same on all other 3 points today at some point.
I used alignment to support this telescopic in perfect position by using TE of the flaps bay at the location where channel in the foam wing was made, this worked out well. These CF tubes are aligned with the curve of bottom of the wing chord tapering up towards the TE.....More to come later tonite...

Props4ever

Left side flap panel has been installed in the flaps bay and have been dry hinged with 2 telescopic sliding CF tubes. I used Robart medium size point hinges to connect flap panel with CF tubes. Both point hinges's one end had to be shaved down so these ends would fit inside the tubes diameter. I liked the way this fit turned out as it was nice and snug fit.....Next is to make a slot for the slider as the back outboard corner for the aluminum flap slider to pass through the rear spar!. This has to be done right other wise risk of cracking the rear spar will become higher. This slider will slide on a pin mounted on the spar at a strategic location to operate properly under motion without getting into bind issues later on. After this, I will go back on to right side's flap bay and do the same to it in order to have both flaps ready to function at the same time.

OH before I forget, I'am getting my new Spectrum DX18 radio in few weeks from now, It's on order with my LHS atm.

Props4ever

Flap panel from left side was pulled out of the bay, presently it is getting leading edge and top skin panel glued on it. After LE panel is glued on, a vertical slot will be made at the location through which flap slider actuator will pass through and be glued with the one of the rib inside the flap panel. I'm also considering to make lite ply rib, glue it on the bottom sink as other were and then drill couple small holes, add blind nuts and screw flap slider on to the rib, this way if in future flap is needed to be removed, all I'll do is to undo screw and remove the panel.... there will be access hatch made on the upper skin of the flaps to access inside.

Props4ever

Yesterday, spent 10 hrs working on one flap panel, I was having binding issues and not enough pivoting of the flap when full installation was done. As it turned out main guide pin was not at right spot, one of the telescopic CF rods was bit out of alignment, aluminum slider was getting jammed up as it's channel wasn't made at right angle. Plus before all this, flap's LE skin, hinge blocks were made, glued and then LE skin was glued on LE part of the ribs. Nothing short of all sorts of issues. Aluminum slider's design was also modified as it wasn't contacting on there bottom skin panel of the flap from inside....

Finally at slightly past midnight I took sigh of relief after all was fixed and flap started to slide out and push in flawlessly and easily....

diy-pro

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Props4ever

I have been trying to upload pictures 3-5 at a time but site is not accepting and these are same size and resolution as before from my cell phone that are on here...I can't sit all day to load 1 picture at a time....anyone want to see latest pics, send me ur email addy in a pm and i'll send them out to you and then you can give feedback on there with reference to certain picture/s with photo file numbers.

Props4ever

Instead of working on the flaps again, I took the center wing section outside and started painting it. Before I painted it, it was taped and masked into proper width of stripes as all 4 nacelles and wing section behind them chord wise used to be light gray, then a section in the middle was bare metal and so as 65% of the outboard wing sections. There was large gray section painted on outboard wings on the top side also, so I will paint model's OB wings with light gray sections too...

Props4ever

Finally pictures are added now to the earlier posts.