1/8 motor ideas?
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1/8 motor ideas?
Just got a Losi aftershock roller as a "project truck". I got a mamba 1/8 esc with it, but no motor. I've never dealt with 1/8 electrics before, or castle esc's so, I have a couple of questions. My first question is what range works best with trucks this size when it comes to kv ratings? In other words, should I be looking in the 1000 to 2000 kv range, maybe 1500 to 2500 kv range? I'm looking for a motor that will give me both torque and speed. My second question is how do I program the esc to my radio and receiver once I do get a motor? I've looked the esc over thoroughly and I can't find a "program" or "set" button anywhere on it. I will be using a traxxas 2.4 ghz on it. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
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RE: 1/8 motor ideas?
Hi,
I have brushless LST2's that have 1717, 1520, 1518, and 1515. All of them are fun, but it comes down to how many cells do you want to run. The truck that I use the most is probably my LST@ with the 1518 motor. This allows me to get plenty of torque/speed and run on a 5s 5000 mah battery.
Here is a pic of my truck with a 1717
If you need any help, just drop me a note and don't forget to use the speed calculator. I like to target a top speed of about ~40mph.
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html
As for programing the ESC to the remote, just go to the castle site and follow the direction (I copied and paste below). If you want to customize settings you will need to get castle link to do so.
How to Calibrate the ESC
STEP 1 : Start with the transmitter ON and the ESC switched OFF and not connected to the battery.
STEP 2 : Plug a battery into your Castle ESC.
STEP 3 : Hold full throttle on the transmitter and turn the ESC’s switch ON. Keep holding fullthrottle on the transmitter. If all your connections are correct, you will hear one multi-toned initialization “ring” from the motor (all tones are played by the ESC vibrating the motor).
STEP 4 : After a second or two, the green LED on the ESC will blink rapidly and the motor will “ring” 4 times rapidly in a row (accepting the full throttle endpoint). After the green LED flashes and tones, the ESC will blink the red LED. At this point the full throttle endpoint has been set within the ESC and now it’s looking for the full brake endpoint (red LED blinking).
STEP 5 : Move the throttle trigger to the full brake position and hold full brake. After a few seconds, the ESC will flash the red LED and ring 4 times rapidly (accepting full brake
endpoint).
STEP 6 : After accepting the full brake endpoint the ESC will then blink the yellow LED. Now relax the trigger to the neutral position. The ESC will now ring 4 times and flash the yellow LED rapidly to accept the neutral position. After accepting the neutral position, the ESC will ring twice and flash ALL the LEDs. This is
the arming tone and LED indication that the ESC IS NOW ARMED and the car will respond to throttle inputs from your transmitter.
From this point on, when you connect batteries and turn the switch on, the ESC will give theinitialization tone and flash after a battery is plugged in and the switch is turned on, and
the arming tone will ring a second or two later. If the ESC is programmed for the Auto-Lipo setting, it will beep the number of cells in your Lipo pack between the initialization tones and the arming tones. After the arming tone plays, the ESC is ACTIVE and will respond to throttle application.
I have brushless LST2's that have 1717, 1520, 1518, and 1515. All of them are fun, but it comes down to how many cells do you want to run. The truck that I use the most is probably my LST@ with the 1518 motor. This allows me to get plenty of torque/speed and run on a 5s 5000 mah battery.
Here is a pic of my truck with a 1717
If you need any help, just drop me a note and don't forget to use the speed calculator. I like to target a top speed of about ~40mph.
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html
As for programing the ESC to the remote, just go to the castle site and follow the direction (I copied and paste below). If you want to customize settings you will need to get castle link to do so.
How to Calibrate the ESC
STEP 1 : Start with the transmitter ON and the ESC switched OFF and not connected to the battery.
STEP 2 : Plug a battery into your Castle ESC.
STEP 3 : Hold full throttle on the transmitter and turn the ESC’s switch ON. Keep holding fullthrottle on the transmitter. If all your connections are correct, you will hear one multi-toned initialization “ring” from the motor (all tones are played by the ESC vibrating the motor).
STEP 4 : After a second or two, the green LED on the ESC will blink rapidly and the motor will “ring” 4 times rapidly in a row (accepting the full throttle endpoint). After the green LED flashes and tones, the ESC will blink the red LED. At this point the full throttle endpoint has been set within the ESC and now it’s looking for the full brake endpoint (red LED blinking).
STEP 5 : Move the throttle trigger to the full brake position and hold full brake. After a few seconds, the ESC will flash the red LED and ring 4 times rapidly (accepting full brake
endpoint).
STEP 6 : After accepting the full brake endpoint the ESC will then blink the yellow LED. Now relax the trigger to the neutral position. The ESC will now ring 4 times and flash the yellow LED rapidly to accept the neutral position. After accepting the neutral position, the ESC will ring twice and flash ALL the LEDs. This is
the arming tone and LED indication that the ESC IS NOW ARMED and the car will respond to throttle inputs from your transmitter.
From this point on, when you connect batteries and turn the switch on, the ESC will give theinitialization tone and flash after a battery is plugged in and the switch is turned on, and
the arming tone will ring a second or two later. If the ESC is programmed for the Auto-Lipo setting, it will beep the number of cells in your Lipo pack between the initialization tones and the arming tones. After the arming tone plays, the ESC is ACTIVE and will respond to throttle application.
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RE: 1/8 motor ideas?
the common 2200 would probably work, but going with a lower kv and higher voltage is always ideal... especially in large vehicles.
to program, you just hold the throttle wide open as you power up the esc, itll sound off and then settle to a steady beep, once you hear the steady beep you go full brake, once you hear the steady beep again you go neutral. youll hear it sound off and when its done and settles to no beeps, youre ready.