bboytab

My flaps now is installed but i dont know how to make it move in the same direction. It works now like an aileron when i deploy.

Yes, race track is still here, i live a mile away. A lot of people still go there but they no longer have races. Thanks

jet22b

bboytab.
In one of your post, you said you have a 8ch Tx. You can hook one of the flap to the flap channel and hook the other one to a open channel. Then you must go into the tx and mix and or slave that channel to the flap channel. Now you have to change from the Y-Harness to servo extension for both flaps servos. Check your Tx manual to see how this is done or ask one of your club member for help. I have this setup for the flaps on my H9 Jackal 50 and did have this setup on my H9 P-51. She die hard!![&o][&o] Thanks for the info on the track!! Let me know if this help!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

bboytab

It did work.... Thanks sonny aka jet22b!

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

bboytab, you need a reversing y

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...sm-rtf-EXRA325


Joe

bboytab

Thanks joe, i was able to make it work by plugging the flap servos to aux 1 and aux 2 on my 8 channel receiver. I have a Spektrum DX8. It now works but i notice that both the flap servos makes a buzzing sound at normal position. It would go away if i touch the flaps or give it a little load. I did check and there is no binding on both.

jet22b

bboytab.
Like I said before, I have this set up on my H9 Jackal 50 and my flaps servos are doing the same thing!! Buzzing like bees!! I took the control rods off and the buzzing would stop. Put the rods back on and the buzzing would start again!! I also check for binding and proper center on both servos, but still could not stop the buzzing. So I fly with the buzzing and had no problem putting the flaps up or down!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

bboytab,

air pressure will take care of the deployed side. I take care of the clean side by reducing the servo travel one click at a time in the TX ATV function till it stops. usually the delta is noticeable.

i have a 9503 so idk how to do this on your radio.

Joe

bboytab

thanks.....what prop size do most people use with the blue nose P51 - DLE 20 setup? im thinking of a 15x10 or a 16x8

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I'm currently running a 16/8 on mine, but tomorrow I'm going to try a 15/8 which I've heard is a good combo for the DL20.

bboytab

i have a 15x8 on hand but was thinking on getting a 16x8. pls let me know the outcome tomorrow if i'll keep this prop...

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Will do! Actually I found TWO NIB 15/8 props today......gotta go thru the inventory more often

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Sorry, it was a Master Airscrew 15/6 and it flew not so good....way too much RPM as I tacked it at 10836 sitting on the ground. I'll keep looking for a 15/8 as I've heard they work the best with the DLE20.

Johnysza

Hi there, Are you still looking for canopy for the mustang?
I have extra canopy and some other spear parts like spinner tail,rudder etc.
thanks
john

Johnysza

Shick looking setup.

Jason Lewis

Thank you

bboytab

Finally, maiden flight last week was good. Half a gallon now to the new DLE20. On the ground, plane noses over easily and on take off run. It was a lot better after moving the battery behind the servos. I still have to hold up-elevator while taxiing and for the 1st part of the take off, slowly releasing once airborne. Once in the air, it flies really good, i just keep the speed up to avoid any chance of stalling, landing was also a bit challenging, have to apply up-elevator on touch down.





Anyone have this lying around? Need one for the RIGHT landing gear, I may have thrown mine in the trash.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I can see from your photo of plane that the gear is too vertical. The way these warbirds like to work best is if the axle is in front of the wing leading edge. From the top view or side view the wheel should be ahead of the wing.
One way to fix it might be to shim the back fo the retract mech with a washer or wood shim. Do not bend the strut to fix this.
Once you adjust this geometry the plane will be very stable in all respects when taking off or landing.

Also another trick is to add a small amount of toe out at the wheels. What this does is to help keep the plane tracking straight and stable. The wheels will pull in opposite directions and this settles the plane when landing. If you touch down on one wheel first it will not provoke the plane to roll over on to its wing tip. Toe in will do this and zero toe causes some nervouse tracking behavior. You can usually adjust this at the trunion in the mechanism by filing the strut flat spot position or carefully twisting the wire strut, either way.

ALWAYSPDG

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Chris.

You said, "You can usually adjust this at the trunion in the mechanism by filing the strut flat spot position", how do you do this exactly?

Thanks,

Mike

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

In a lot of cases there is a set screw that tightens on to a flat on the strut wire. You can file the flat slightly to change the toe angle. If your not comfortable with this then put the strut wire in a vise at the spring coil if it has one. Twist the strut axle just a little bit and do the opposite to the other one. If the axle is the type thats assembled then the flat on the strut can be filed instead. It just depends on how the H9 struts are built.

I just looked closer at the struts in the photo, are those Robo Struts or did H9 supply those?
Are the retracts stock H9 or are they Robart?

When Ive done this with H9 mechanical retracts and Robo Struts I made the toe angle prior to filing the flats on the mucis wire stub. You can use a Sharpie marker to paint black on the music wire. Using the set screws in the strut you can set the angle and mark the wire. Then you file the flat and adust it as needed until you remove about 0.5-0.75mm to make the flat. This is pretty easy to do and since it requires cutting the supplied music wire struts you will have spare material to make another one if its wrong.

bboytab

I will definitely try shimming the retract this time, I have maximum toe out with the stock strut flat spot, will also need to file to get more toe out. Thanks Chris!

kiwibob72

Nice to hear that it flys really well (when flown with the speed up).

How did you go with throttle cable positioning and what route did you take? .... are you able to post pics of the direction you took? (was considering a pivot arm myself, but can't see on on yours)

bboytab

I just have the setup in the manual, just needed to cut the plastic clevis shorter so I will achieve full throttle/travel by not hitting the firewall.

Johnysza

bboytab

Any tips on how to avoid this? http://youtu.be/SIXEEpc7OHw

My blue nose is only 2 weeks old but has been flying really good except its hard/impossible to make a smooth scale like take since i needed to hold elevator and should release at the right time to prevent nosing over. I almost crashed today during my 1st take off, just like on the video, luckily i was able to save it. I think i needed more power/speed during take off and release a bit of elevator at the right time. There was also a bit of crosswind today.

Johnysza

Need more speed on take off
the plane should lift up its own.
Go to the far end of that field so you won't run out of runway.
also on that video the engine sound like a small nitro
bedt setup Dle-20 jtec raparound muffler
a light 16x8 prop.(powerhouse)
unless saito 125 (more unforgiving you add more weight to the plane
good luck!