BlackPhantomDragon

Some more













Batteries for RX.

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

BlackPhantom dragon,
Nice to see the DLE20 in there...I have a pitts muffler for one I have too, but I hate to have to hack-up the cowl for it- It's hard to find guys to do lil' aluminum welding work, mostly they want a fortune or won't touch it 'cause it's too small of a job.
I certainly don't have the skill for that.
I have an FPE 21cc with a compact pitts, maybe I'll see about that one- I can't remember ifs the carb sticks out the side-'cause that would be just as bad.
I have an NGH35-rear ported which would be a bit of overkill, so I'll have to think about engine selection still .
Well, I did it...Last night while watching an episode of "dogfights" on the History channel, I decided to break down and strip my PT-19. There's no going back now. Though as a disclaimer I love the old blue and yellow- It's ever so classic!
I stripped the whole thing, and Overall, I'm impressed. The skeletal structure is sounds and well made. 98% of glue joints look good and wood quality is very nice. I'll get some pics before I start the re-covering process.
Next will be sanding the blue cowl & other pre-painted areas which will end -up silver as well
Here's something along the line of what i'm considering:

panouas

Hi,

I'm also busy with the seagull pt19 120 at he moment.
I will try to make it a bit different, a bit more scale.
I have removed the original covering and have now recovered with silver oratex.
Before this I have coverd the top of the wings with 1.5mm balsa and add some extra ribs at the botom of the wing panels.
Also have replaced, the original hinges (never used this kind of hinges) with 1/4 scale kavan hinges, the wheels with scale robart 4", the pilot, the engine mount with dubro.
I will hand-paint all markins and add wheathering. I will power my pt19 with en OS FS 120 E engine.
Here is some photos from the begin of the PT-19 makeover.
Sorry for my english!

BlackPhantomDragon

Hi Panouas
Great to see the bare bones of thw plane. Keep the pics and info coming.


Hi NoFlaps
glad some one else is looking to go Petrol motor as well.

I know what you mean about the pitts and the cowl. One reason taken so long to start as I have been trying to decide what to do.
Still not sure if I will get the pitts cut up and welded. Have a couple of idea's where can get done but not sure on the cost v practicability.

Just finished rebuilding my switch housing for the 2 x JR G gold switches I will be using for RX.
Next will be mounting the ignition switch and the Led for the Rexcel Opto Kill.
Had a lot of thought about where to but the electronic ignition box and think the most practical and furthest away from RX will be inside on the bottom sloped bit where the cowl opening is. tryed to see if would mount on outside of this area but just not enough room.


Will post some pics either later in week or next week as will be on holidays then.

Keep the info coming, Great to see what others are doing.


Regards Greg.

panouas

Hi there,

I'm ready with the recovering of the model, now is the time to do the engine and radio instalation, and repaint the engine cowl end plastic parts.
I will try to finish my model also in this colours, PT-19 Number 23! like NoFlaps model.

BlackPhantomDragon

Looks Good Panouas. Great covering job.

Be good see once the other paint is done.

Great to see what others are doing.

Regards Greg

panouas

Thanks Greg, yes it is nice to see other seagull pt19 120 models, there are not many information about it, I'm very curious to see how this model flies and if the landing gear is strong enough?
Regards, Panos.

ijstans39

Hi Greg
I am considering a seagull pt 19 and have a querey that I am sure you can answer.

I have an ASP 108 2 stroke which I want to use in the pt 19, however when mounted inverted I estimate that I will have to lower the fuel tank about 3 centimetres to level the outlet with the spray bar. Do you see this to be feasible?

BTW your posts & photos have been most usefull i helping me make up my mind.

regards, Ian.

BlackPhantomDragon

Hi Ian

Thanks for the kind words.
I am not using the standard tank as I have swapped out for a smaller one due to running on Petrol.
I will have a look at what your talking about and try and get some pics with the original tank in and see how much room for movement there is.
I think it should be ok but will have a look and try and get some measurments as well.

Regards Greg

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Looks great...I'm glad to see that yours is turning out so well! NICE WORK ON THE WINGS.
I had the good fortune to fly one a real one of these back in the late 1990's i recall is felt solid as a rock - The owner said it was because of the plywood used in the wing- Which made it feel sturdy and heavier more like their big brother warbirds pilots would soon graduate to.
Back to this plane: Here are more pics showing detail of the bare bones and quality of materials.
I still haven't started my covering job yet.Maybe in the next week or 2.

Please keep the pics coming...Especially those of you who are cutting your cowlings for mufflers.

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

More pics:

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

And more pics~

BlackPhantomDragon

Great pics NoFlaps

Just a mention while you have it bare bones. I found that the rounded piece of balsa near the wing saddle (front area) on mine has cracked a bit. Been thinking if I need to pull the cover off to fix. May be good idea to look at this while uncovered incase yours is a bit flimsy as well you could strengthen a bit. cause this is the area you rest on while its up the right way. If that makes sense.

BlackPhantomDragon

Hi Ian
Took some photos with origonal tank in. Not sitting correct as my throttle cable is in the way. But looks like there would be around 2.5"or 6cm above the tank to move around if you needed.











Regards Greg

ijstans39

Hi Greg

Thanks for the photos - It will be easy to position the tank at any height. I was just not sure if there were any frames 'inside' where the tank fits but clearly there isn't

regars

Ian

MercerAUST

In my experience, the stock landing gear is fine. BUT the supporting wire for the oleos will bend easily with careless landings. This, in turn, breaks the grey plastic spats. The wire is easy enough to bend back, but I quickly discarded the spats.

I've found the plane tricky to land. It if great on the ground and steady as a rock on take-off, but takes more judgemtn on landing. Thirty or fourty degrees of flap will slow to almost a walking pace, but, at this slow pace, the difference between floating and dropping like a brick is only a matterof sconds. In my view, it is best to use no flaps in wind, only about 15-20 degrees flap in calm conditions and come in with a little more speed than strictly necessary. Watch the wheels carefully as the plan descends to get the first contact with the ground as smooth as possible, because it will bounce severely if you aea little out.

In summary, the plane is easy enough to get down really slowly and the undercarraige is fine for average landings. Get used to bending them forward after a rough landing so the axle of the wheel aligns with the leading edge of the wing (necessary to avoid tip overs). The plane needs good technique for perfect landings.

I've had mine up about 50 times and still have the stock undercarraige. I've had to bend them forwards again about 15 times, replace the little nut screws with larger screws because the bit where you screw the oleos onto the undercarraige wire threads over time, and  glue the hardwood wing undercarraige mounting block back together once (as a result of my most recent hard landing).

BlackPhantomDragon

[color=#0000FF]Hi Mercer

Thanks for the Flap angle and Landing tips.
Will come in handy especially on that 1st flight and landing.

Regards Greg[

BlackPhantomDragon

Final got what I think is the hardest part of my build mostly sorted tonight.

Where the Electronic Ignition Module going to Go.

I am pretty happy with it at present.

Once I get the tank and ignition switch and the 3 batteries sorted I will pull it out and tidy up the HT Lead hole and may put some thin glass over the area to give a bit more strength.

The next big headache will be how much I need to chop the cowl.


Regards Greg

BlackPhantomDragon

New dual switch housing I rebuilt with thicker balsa.

BlackPhantomDragon

The Ignition in its place, Still need to finalize a few thinjs to finish it off.

panouas

Dear MercerAUST,
tanks a lot, your experience / information is very useful!
Regards Panos.

BlackPhantomDragon

Been looking at tank and battery placement.

Mercer
How was your balance? Where did you place all your stuff.


Also looked at how much need to remove on muffler to fit in Cowl.
If can get the muffler done at a good price my not need to cut a big hole, Just a couple for plug and HT lrad and enough to let the Hot air out.

BlackPhantomDragon

This is how much of the side of the muffler I would need to get in the cowl.!!

BlackPhantomDragon

Possible Tank and Batt placement.
2 RX on top of tank and 4.8v upfront for Ignition.







Regards Greg

MercerAUST

Mine uses an inverted ASP 120 4-stroke. From memory, I used the recommended CoG in the manual which seems to be fine. I think you'll be able to get away with shifting around  the location of the ignition and Rx batteries to balance it when you get to this stage.