rc4flying

My Feedback: (21)

Hello Guys,

Well, just unpacked my first SkyMaster jet purchase. I must say, I am very impressed with the packing and quality of the plane I ordered and received. I ordered my Large "Pro" version BAe Hawk through BVM after Kentucky Jets.
Upon unpacking and inspection of my plane, again, I am very happy with the quality of this plane. I only came across one very small crack in a main gear door that can be fixed with very little effort.

Attached are a few pics from my unpacking. I look forward to my build.

Joe Westrich

My Feedback: (95)

Sweet! You will love this airplane.

You were smart gettting the alumium hinges on the doors. That would have saved me a lot of time.

john josey

I'm sitting here green with envy guys, absolutly stunning

RCflyerCT

My Feedback: (13)

Nice...I flew mine 4 times today...this airplane rocks big time!!!!

JK13

Subscribed!

Looks great!

Joe

megafly

Nice!

Frank Alvarez

Hey Joe,

Lets get these birds up together at the next Fairview event, should be a hoot. Good luck with your winter build, going over my fleet as well.
Take care, stay warm, see you in the spring time.
Frank.

In the Haze

What is the correct geometry of the main door air cylinder attachment points on the doors to get them to stay closed in flight. With the attachment point so close to the hinge line they open up very easily at relatively slow speeds.

rc4flying

My Feedback: (21)

I know from talking to a few Hawk owners, one thing they all mention was to put a bigger air cylinder on the main gear doors.

Not sure of the geometry you have, but my new Hawk appears to have a point on the gear doors to mounts the connection point. Don't know if this is different from your mounting position. I have just started looking at the up coming build and I am thinking of using servos for this very purpose. But I do have the bigger air cylinders if I can't get servos to fit.

In the Haze

Yes same point of attachment as mine, but I have the original cylinders that were supplied with the the kit. I been toying with the idea of moving the point outwards away from the hinge line a bit before changing cylinders.

Gonzalo38

All of the SM Hawks that are flying in our club have the original cylinders and none of us have problems with the doors not closing or opening. Don't have the exact mounting position but I will try to take a picture over the weekend.

In the Haze

Thanks but just to be clear, the doors close and open fine. Its just that they are forced open from airflow while flying, obviously the faster the airspeed the wider they are forced open. Bigger cylinders will help, but I just think having the pivot point so close to the hinge line takes very little effort to pull them open. Doors are on the same air supply as the retracts so pressures around 7 bar, no leaks etc.

Moving the pivot further out on the door should provide mechanical advantage using the same cylinders.

As you can see a slow pass produces a nicely closed door compared to the pic in my post above which was a bit faster.

jetpilot

My Feedback: (48)

Can be solved three ways as mentioned. Bigger cylinders, better geometry, or servos. definitely seperating the doors system from the retracts system would be recommended. I used bigger air cylnders and seperate air system on my SM Hawk with success.
It funny because many guys dont realize this is happening til they take a pictures in flight. its kind of hard to notice with naked eye.
scott

jetnuno

There's a 4th way...

Use full bypass. That way pressure in fuse will drop.

Regards

Nuno

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Sometimes full bypass wil choke down your turbine if not done properly. This was the case with the Tam's F-18's. The one I built for Dantley used the stock locations but I think we upgraded to the bigger Robart cylinders. He has no problems with the doors in flight.

In the Haze

Thanks all, what I thought[8D]

I'll get Robart cylinders anyway, probably the better/easier fix at the moment.

rc4flying

My Feedback: (21)

I am in he process of the building of my hawk now and I am getting ready to install the Vertical Stab. Should I be thinking about making this non removable ?

DelGatoGrande

My Feedback: (23)

Hello Joe

yes make it non removable.
Regarding the ruder servo you asked me, i use the hitec arm .No problem.
Regarding the heat i had some concerns like you so i dressed some wood plates with aluminium tape.And placed them where you see in the photos.
Regarding the two elevator servos i use the PowerBox Royal that can gang up two or more servos so they wont fight each other http://powerbox-systems.com/e/powerb...oyal/start.php

you will love the hawk!

jetnuno

Hello

Why did you made the vertical stab non removable? You could add a screw up in the front of it.

On the other hand if you make vertical stab non removable, the piano cord from servo to rudder could be glued. Is this the main reason?

Regards

Nuno

DelGatoGrande

My Feedback: (23)

..i felt if i had made it removable i would have more chances something fail.Just to have less things to worry about when going out flying.
I dont think you can glue the Γ torque rod to rudder because its not on the hinge line as i recall and it will fight during move.

rc4flying

My Feedback: (21)

Can someone give me a better description and possibly some pictures of the Flap control horn mounting location. Not sure whether is should be higher or lower on the LE of the flap and the pics and description in the instructions are not to clear. I did change the servo so it is perpendicular to the hingeline, just not sure where to cut the hole in the TE of the wing also.

Thanks for any help.