scale dail

My Feedback: (8)

I am so glad it went well! You had a good pilot flying her! I think the grass helps too. Get a pilot in the cockpit!

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

Reading the "Peashooter is a pig" account and then watching the video of another plane and pilot I have to think the first account either had the CG wrong or maybe the leading edge was shaped wrong or... well, who knows because the video Peashooter looks like a *****cat!

Congrats, Smithcreek!

Don

smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks guys! We did a lot of "pre-game" youtube video analysis of other P-26 maidens and decided, "don't pour on the coals too fast for takeoff" was the key, and it worked. Taxi tests proved you could get in trouble if you hit the throttle too fast, but if you recognized what was happening and aborted early it was no problem. If you slowly rolled on the throttle, especially the first half, by the time you got to full it was more than ready to fly and did not exhibit any bad behaviors. Flying is excellent. Before the first turn was done I knew it was rock solid. I needed some left and up trim, but after that it flew straight as an arrow. Landing on the other hand is going to be tricky. I had one decent landing on the third flight. I need to go to high rates and see if I can hold it off a bit longer and bleed off more speed. Any bounce is magnified quickly. My second landing was actually very good until I hit a decent sized bump. The plane tilted to one side, then the other and ended up nosing over. No way I would ever try to land this on pavement.

I have a pilot, from Aces of Iron. I need to paint him. I put him on the "if I don't crash on the maiden" list of things to do. Lots of small detail items that add up to 40-50 hours of work, easily.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

Here's the other plane's maiden. I apologize for my poor video skills and constant chatting, I was a bit hyped up after my maiden.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrMiOh_NN5Q[/youtube]

fabfal

Many thanks. Some suggestion for the retracts? Centuryjet has got them. I have already used the Centurion series but it seems to be heavy fot that size. Do you know some other supplier that can satisfy both scale and weight? Better air or mechanic retract?

maddingo

Hey guys,

Im bashing through a Royal .60 size corsair. Ive got a hold of some great robinaire retracts ready to install. Does anyone have plans or manual that I can read on how some retracts were to be installed before I just make the install process up.

Thanks guys.

Dingo

Aldo Rebsamen

Hi

Congratulationto those beautiful P26. And how surprisingly well they fly.
I have a Marutaka kit I bought in the 80's. The fuse is assambled but I put it aside. After watching your video I think Iwill relaunch the build.

Can you pleasegive some technical details, like:
- down thrust used (if any)
- right thrust used
- CG
- angle between wing and elevator (I dont know the English expression, in Germin it is called EWD)
- did you build in any washout in the outer wing panels?
- did you make any building changesin respectto the original drawing? if so please give mesome details.
- did you use the landing gear setup shown on the plan?
- any advice for my build you would like to give to me.

Thank you for your help.

Best Regards
Aldo Rebsamen

smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

Do you still have the plans? If not I can look the numbers up, but we built them to plans except for the landing gear described below. All the important angles, right and down thrust, wing and stab incidence, cg, all according to plans. My friend did build washout into his wing, I did not and don't see any need to after flying.

We used the landing gear as shown on the plans but moved them in towards the fuse. On the plans the main wire is anchored in a block by the root rib on the outer panel and is bent 90 degrees to go down to the wheel at the 2nd rib. We just switched that around so it's anchored by the 2nd rib and goes down at the first. This was to move the gear in to a more scale position, but I'm sure it will lead to more nose overs. Best advice is to keep it light behind the cg. If any of the blocks that came with the kit are heavy make some new ones. Also, IMO flaps are a must. If you have not seen the build thread I did it is [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9346949/mpage_4/key_/tm.htm]Royal Build Thread[/link]. A lot of the pictures are gone, but I can repost them if you have any specific questions. Good luck with your build!

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Here is my fiberglass copy of a Royal B-17F, Fort Alamo II, nearly ready for it's first flights. Just a few cosmetic details and it will be ready. Weighs 12lb 3oz, with 4, 1000kv motors on 2, 3s 5000mah batteries.
I posted a few pics of the kit earlier in this thread, back in June of last year. Well it's finaly fiknished. You can see the build thread here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1417449

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

Awesome plane!
I went on ebay last winter and purchased 4 used o.s. .20 four stroke engines for mine.
I paid $70
$65
$110
and $170.
Then I found a seller on ebay that sells the bearings and piston ring for $25 so I have four rebuilt engines.
I've been busy moving into an apartment, and getting ready for college so I haven't touched mine.

Builder2010

On our B-17 we used four, OS FS-26s, 4-stroke and the plane was a bit underpowered according to the owner and pilot, Mike Hunt. The second problem we had was getting them to idle having been mounted inverted. These were older OS's and didn't have carburetor adjustments that let use get them running slow. It therefore was landing very hot. If I were to build it again, I would have tried to use electrics with a sound system duplicating four Wright radials. That would have been cool. The plane, I understand is now sold to a guy who has it hanging in his office. The young man in the picture is my grandson, Alex. He's now 11 and turning into a fine model maker.

scale dail

My Feedback: (8)

Since we are talking B-17's right now, I found a group that flies B-17 the same size as my newly rebuilt Royal B-17. I am the only one that runs glow power. I need the ultra reliability of my 4-OS.15CVA's to keep up with more than 10 other electric models. Many spectators are suprized as I taxi back with the group that my B-17 has 4 mufflers! Go Royal!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Acdq5...1&feature=plcp

Firepower R/C

My Feedback: (10)

Oh my gosh... that picture is amazing. It looks like full scale Bombers gathering after takeoff into formation!

scale dail

My Feedback: (8)

Our B-17 squadron visited the Wings over Chino event. The Royal B-17 is the one with the flaps down.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fV9zWnRuqY&list=UU1OdIFMBSeprlfBkG5KzBGQ&index=1&feature=plcp[/youtube]

fabfal

At the beginning, yesterday night, I thought they were the real B17. Only this morning I read your comment on the thread and realized they are models. It's really fantastic. Never seen something like this. Only the engine noise is missing!!!!!. My compliments!!
Fabrizio

Walther

My Feedback: (1)

Does anyone have the plans for the royal 1/2A P-51 that they could copy for me?

smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

If anyone is interested I have an extra P-26 short kit. Same parts I cnc router cut for our group build that I posted pictures and a video of on the previous page. This kit was cut back when we started the project for a guy that bailed out at the start, never even picked up his parts. It includes copied plans, all the cnc router cut balsa and lite ply ribs, formers, fuse parts, etc., all the band saw cut balsa blocks, fin and rudder post, stab trailing edge, elevator leading edges. The only cut parts it is missing are some belly pan formers, they are on the plans so you can cut them. Most of the parts have a little fuzz on the edges that comes of with a touch of sandpaper.

It does not include spars, and sheeting. There are not many sticks needed, a couple for the fuse, a couple for the ailerons. Also, you can buy the fiberglass parts from Fiberglass Specialties, or we can work out a deal where you would put a fairly substantial deposit on the molds we have and make you own, which I will return when you return the molds. If anyone is interested, pm me, it's $40 shipped in the lower 48, that's less that the wood and plans alone. I have the instruction manual scanned and can send an electronic copy.

P-Y

My Feedback: (1)

At that price, it's a bargain. Too bad I live abroad!

Deaner777

What is the wingspan on that plane? I might be interested.

smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

Wingspan is 67". Just to be clear, this is just the plans and wood parts described above, no plastic or fiberglass, no wire for landing gear. If you are interested PM, don't reply on this thread please. I'm signing off for the evening and will check pms in the morning.

smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

parts are sold thanks. Good to know they won't go to waste.

Sharpeye22

I am not nearly the craftsman you are but I shall enjoy building and flying the Peeshooter. I have a Hobbyking version of it that I picked up from a friend but it is so heavy from his repairers after his manny crashes that it is almost unflyable. I will build this one as light as possible.

thanks for the opportunity.

fabfal

Hi Guys

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I would think that pretty much any standard 90 degree retract could be made to work Fabrizio. The Robart gear for the TF airplane would probably be fine except that you would have to adjust the length of the struts to suit your slightly larger model. I'm not aware of anybody making a retract specifically for 1/7 scale AT-6 models except for the afforementioned Century Jet Models. My only advice would be to do your research on CJM before deciding whether to purchase from them or not. I fly nothing but pneumatic retracts and love them, don't do mechanicals at all. There may be some electric retracts available as well that would work but, again, do your research first as their are many problems being reported with just about all that are currently available.