twn

So....

What is the best way to cover the razorback? It has convext curves... Can it be done in one chuck per side? I'm worried that doing it like that will increase the drooping from summer heat? Or should it be done in 2 or 3 chunks per side?

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

I am no Monokote expert but I did mine in one piece per side and it came out rather well.
Just take your time and let the iron do the stretching for you.
No issue either so far under the summer sun.

Fabio

Ford34tom

I believe mine ended up being covered with 3 pieces and it came out great. there was one large piece on either side, with an overlapping "cap" piece down the center of the spine.

It was very tricky doing Monocote on a concave serface. The guy who covered mine made up a small, concave piece of balsa and practiced on it. He ended up using a trim iron he found that had curved edges so that it would not leave marks. It is very easy to leave marks in the soft balsa if you apply too much pressure with a small trim iron without curved edges. He made a sock for it and used high heat and low pressure. In most cases we use heat to shrink the covering. On a concave serface, you want to make the covering stick to the serface more than shrink or tighten up. If you try to shrink it when it is not stuck well to the balsa, it will naturally pull away. I know he discovered not to take a heat gun anywhere near the spine, just the covering iron.

All the above from a guy "me" who is a poor coverer, but my friend is good with a lifetime of experience. Hope this helps as it is a bit tricky, but do-able.

twn

Thanks ford34tom, I am actually quite good/comfy at covering. I have a few build threads here, last being a Goldberg ultimate, but I hate monokote. Difficult to work with. It's glue is gassy and creates bubbles and such. I usually use ultracote. Also I have never done concaved surfaces before.... I have some balsrite, i think I will put some of it on. It is a covering glue that gets painted on before covering. Works great on non-porous surfaces like epoxy. The covering grabs like ugly on an ape. Also the glue sinks way into the wood but if u need to remove the covering the glue makes it a pain and often wood gets peeled up too.

Ford34tom

I suspect most modelers prefer Ultracote over Monocote for the reasons you stated. It sure is easier to work with. In this case, we are stuck with Monocote if we want a good color match and don't want to recover the entire plane, I thought briefly about that.

The problem on concave serfaces seems to be one of shrinking verses adhering or sticking to the serface. If you use a heat gun on a concave serface, you will likely shrink the covering and pull it from the balsa. I have learned a lot from this thread and Manuel (Ultimate2) makes the point earlier in the thread that he mostly does not use a heat gun when the covering is over solid balsa, but does everything with an iron. With a lot of heat, this both shrinks the covering tight and really adhears it to the balsa. He goes over the components of a new plane with an iron to stick the covering to the wood. I have very recently gone back to my Hanger 9 warbirds and found very tight covering, no wrinkles, but obviously the covering was pulled tight over the wood but NOT stuck to it.

You learn something new every day. Thanks Manuel!

twn

Razorback finished. Just need to flatten some bubbles with high heat and a pin... The new monokote color is lighter in shade than the old monokote. So is noticeable.... Oh well...

ultimate2

[8D] Awsome mod. Well done buddy.... congratulations.
Manolo.

cclark8871

My Feedback: (2)

Has anyone modified the tail of the model of the P-47 to add the dorsal fin of the late D model ? If so are any drawings I could use to do the same?

Ford34tom

I don't know how many people are watching this thread anymore but I would appreciate any comments on the following. I am build this plane as a Razorback and using the scale techniques of Ultimate2. So far I am really stoked with the results. Then I mounted the engine, a Saito100, mocked up the front end, and found the engine angle from the firewall to be excessively noticeable. It is angled considerably to the right, I assume to counteract engine thrust. On my Hanger9 warbirds it is there, but much less noticeable. I have been following ULtimate2's lead and trying to make this the most scale of all my warbirds and this is just too obvious. I am thinking about lessening it by putting some washers between the motor mount and the firewall on the right side which will lessen the angle but will probably move the motor shaft to the left of center in the cowling?? New problem. Maybe I can split the difference?

Any thoughts or comments?

ultimate2

[8D]As you know, mine is a E-conversion, but anyway, I followed the most exactly that I could, the right and down trust on the firewall. If I would do a gas or glow powered version I will follow the TF instruction. It is right that the angle looks too much, but flying it is right. At leas mine on maiden flew almost from the bench. The only problem is once set the engine per instruction with the recomended angle, probably you must play a little with the cowling and the dummy engine so the entire thing looks good.
The only thing that can say is go ahead and follow the TF angle... and Tx for your nice words. Upload some pics of your Jug, please...
Manolo.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

It's been a 3 years since I built mine, and I tend to forget things like that. It it common for me to alter factory thrust angles, primarily by lessening the right thrust offset (BUT NOT ELIMINATING!) by utilizing Ernst offset plates.
I DID look up my old posts, and on page 2, I posted pictures of my motor mounted with and without cowl:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8968480

It is evident to me that I did indeed use an Ernst offset plate, I would guess this one to be 1 degree. MOST times, I use the 2 deg ones, but mount them at a 45 deg angle so that the offset is divided between removing a slight amount of right thrust, AND adding a slight amount of downthrust. In this case to, the plate is clearly mounted in proper orientation to provide offset in one direction only, and I am pretty sure it is to remove a little of the right offset.

The reason Top Flite (and other manufacturers) add the right thrust offset is to make the aircraft less likely to torque roll during high power, low airspeed situations. I would only recommend removing some of the offset to experienced warbird pilots, and thos who do not over power them. Gradual increases to throttle AND co-ordinated rudder input eliviate the need for the large offsets.

Ford34tom

Thank you both for your comments. I have so much right thrust built into the firewall, I had to look twice to verify what I was looking at. I am not sure what an Earnst plate is. I do not want to eliminate all of the offset, just make it less noticeable. Could I not add a couple of washers or spacers behind the right motor mount?

Thanks again for your help.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

You probably can. Just be careful when applying power fast since it will try to roll even more.
Try with a few without the cowl installed. Once you find the angle you are looking for than go ahead and customize you cowl and dummy engine.

Good luck

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

"My Baby" Picked this ARF up for $200 with a Rimfire 120 and Castle 100 amp ESC. Fixed it up and added some weathering, Ultracote finish and a set of Robart Spring Air retracts. Flies like a trainer...

ultimate2

[8D] Last day..., Maj. Glen Eagleston did a trip to LT. Oiler´s airport on England, so both did some sorties.... Oh..., sorry I was dreaming....
https://vimeo.com/48313785

Never

This is my P 47 TF.
I have a SAITO125 and landing gear Century
In flight is wonderful and with the flaps ,landing a handkerchief.
Sorry for my English.

Ford34tom

Ultimate 2 and Never, you guys did an unbelievable job on scaling out your planes. They are both fantastic.

I hope to post pics of my plane soon, I am finishing up the drop tanks and rocket launchers.So far it has been converted to a Razorback, Saito 100 with Corsair Jock's totally hidden exhaust system, E-Flite retracts and best of all, as much of Ultimate2's scale work as I could do. Oh yea, I am mixing paint to paint the cowl to match the rest of the plane and am ordering WW11 style nose art for the cowl. It's been a very slow build because I have tried to raise the bar on my attention to detail and scale work. I can already see that I am going to be afraid to fly it. By the way, I am at 10lbs, 8 ozs. and need to add about 7 ozs. up front to balance the plane per the specs. I am changing the aluminum spinner to a painted brass one and hope that comes close to solving the balance issue. I have spent hours on this forum researching every aspect of the built. Maybe too anal but...........some are builders and some are flyers. I have had such a great time with this plane. Much, much thanks to all on this forum who have helped and inspired me.

YAT-28E

A question I have is I obtained a set of the TF retracts and put them in a Gold Edition build from years ago. I mounted the wire struts and locked them down on the flats already ground on the wires. It seems to have so much toe in that I can hardly push the model forward!!It also starts to put side pressure on it.
Has anyone else had this problem or Am I doing something wrong??
The retract looks like the same set up as the ARF.

Any help would be great


Mike

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Hello
After flying my beautiful p-47 razorback this summer it is time to let it go.
Thanks to ULTIMATE2 for the inspiration. You have amazing scale skills and my plane it is a result of that.
Thanks all for all your help.
If you know someone in the Ohio area that wants this beauty please follow the link
[link]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1724448[/link]

Thanks

Fabio

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I have about 7 flights on my P-47 now and it is just great. This one has an OS-120 Surpass and it is perfect for this plane.

Never

Hello Mike,
I do not know if I understand your question, but my experience tells me that the CJ landing gear for P47 kit are different from those of the ARF model.

Marco

jk6672

Guys I just purchased this ARF and have been reading as much as I to help me out with this project.  This will be my first balsa and largest to date bird.  I have a pair of Eflite 60 120 90's that I attemped to use in a foammy, but were too big so ill be exchanging for 85's for this bird.

jk6672

I hope I'm not one of those "annoying question askers" that seem to get shunned because they ask questions that seem to be asked all the time. The questions are new to me, and believe me I search and look before asking, but some forms are not very search friendly.
Anyways, I've made up my mind on the power system. I'm going to go forward with what seems to have been proven a good match and I'm going to pick up a Hacker A50 -16L , CC ICE 100 ESC, since this is the largest  to date bird, I’m still not sure if I should continue using the CC 10A BEC or move up to the pro.

I have read a lot of good post between RCU and RCgroups on this bird and very impressed with all work people have put into making a good bird better.  Some of the detail is absolutely amazing and I hope to learn all I can from the experienced.   I’m still looking for ideas on using an electrical retract for the tail wheel as opposed to the Robart mechanical system I’ve seen.  I have the Eflite 60 series retracts and I’m currently working on a tail retract for a my FMS 1400 P-47 and hoping I can take from that experience and apply it towards this bird.

funkymeter2003

Well......what a difference a few minutes makes! This is such a great airplane I bought a second one after it crashed due to what seemed like a radio issue. Redid it as a razorback and absolutely loved it, what a great bird. Went down to the field today and lost her in a pretty spectacular midair crash wth my friend (only 2 planes in the air...what are the odds)! I was flying straight and he came up from underneath severing my tail section from the fuselage, the rest is history! I had some pics but it won't let me up;load them. Now the question is do I get this ARF again (3rd time is a charm) or just go with something else. Anybody know a good FW-190 or ME 109 model that would work well with a saito 100? I was also thinking about the Top Flite P40 but don't want to mess with those rotating retracts...

funkymeter2003

Here she is in the air...and the aftermath....