mikmarsh

My Feedback: (31)

What is the perferred glue these days, besides Gorilla Glue ?? First time at this so i want it to work.


Thanks, Mike

drube

I just got finished sheeting some wings using Gorilla Glue. Worked great!
Check out these links
www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10830856/anchors_10830856/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10830856


www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_265081/anchors_265081/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#265081

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I used to use ProBond polyurethane glue, it works like gorilla glue. But I cant find it anymore. So I'll use gorilla glue next time. You just have to watch it as its curing in the beginning and wipe off the excess foaming out.

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

I have used epoxy resin long cure and also waterbased contact cement. Have had great success with both.
Thanks,
Fred

guamflyer

pertty much all the glues mentioned will work...if I use carbon spars ,I glue them to the sheeting with CA, let that dry well then I use gorrilla glue using those phone cards to spread. I make sure all is coated then I sorta squeegee most off cause its gonna foam and fill all the areas that contact wood and foam..and its lighter...I used to use epoxy exclusively which works well also but works best when vaccume bagged... I build alot of the 1/12 scale electrics and weight is very important..


SLOPE FAST - SOAR DEEP

guamflyer

deatonbt

I have used Gorilla glue, and it works well. Iused it with good success in gluing two wing panels together where there was a gap because I messed up when sanding the dihedral at the center section. The glue expanded and filled the gap. The glue dries harder than the surrounding foam. So, I have no worries.

I have also used contact cement with good success but have had it lift a little during the build on tightly curved leading edges. Once the wing was finished though, Ihave had no problems. It never has happened to me, but I have worried about introducing or removing washout into the wing by accidentally twisting the foam core while pressing the sheeting onto the core. Contact cement is a one-time shot.

I had a real problem with 3M spray can adhesives; 3M 90 and 3M 77. If I held the can too close, the foam melted. If I held the can too far away, the glue started drying before reaching the surface and would not adhere. I had this problem on a wing where both the foam melted a little and the sheeting also lifted during the build. In desperation, Ipretty much poured Titebond into the wing and clamped everything together. It dried fine. After thinking about it, Titebond is made for wood and porous materials. I have probably over 150 flights on the 84" wingspan plane and some very hard landings and have had no problems. It was only glassed at the center section and no spar was used. Another forum member suggested Titebond I think, but Icannot remember his name. He stated that he has had no problems after using it for many years. So, I went ahead and used it on another 84" wing but have not flown it yet. But, it has been sitting for maybe a year with no lift. A big plus is that Titebond cleans up with water.

A pattern kit builder at our club uses epoxy with no problems.

Here is a good tutorial on sheeting a wing by Ty Brown. Except for contact cement, it pretty much can be used with any glue type.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSe0-rfojPY

- Brian

mikmarsh

My Feedback: (31)

Some great suggestions, Ihave a lot more insight to the do's and dont's

Dave Bugz

In the UK i have used "Copydex Craft Glue Strong Water-based Latex Adhesive". Not sure if you can get it where you are. Good strong stuff, apply to both foam and balsa, let it dry and then lay the balsa over the foam, trim, Job done.

Rebel Flyer

Southern's Sorgum from Dave Brown products, is the easiest to work with.

Epoxy combined with vacuum bagging is the lightest and strongest though.

Rebel