motor cogging
#1
Thread Starter
motor cogging
Ok so i recently bought a Super Fly x from hobby people during the black friday sale. After some bench testing i decided to get rid of the 1050 kv motor it comes with and replace it with a hobbypeople motor i had as a spare laying around. the reason was because the super fly comes with a 4 bladed prop, which puts out a decent amount of thrust with the stock motor, about 10-11 amps at full throttle so right around 120 watts ( i know those aren't thrust measurements) However the hub on the 4 blade prop is crooked to the point that i didn't really want to fly with it.
so i tried the stock motor with an APC 5.5x 4.5 and got a measly reading of 3 amps at WOT and it didn't have near the thrust.
Back to how i replaced it with the hobby people (HP) motor, I don't recall the exact specs of it but its either a 2208/09 or 2208/12 and i'm thinking its the 9 turn. Well i hooked it up in my vice and spun it up on the watt meter with the APC 5.5x 4.5 and with a fresh 3 s hobbypeople 2200 mah 20 c bat i got 17-18 amps and about 200 watts, now we're cookin i think.
So i weigh the stock motor with the 4 blade prop and it is around 95grams the HP motor with the prop and adapter was only 50 grams, even better i'm thinking.
So after i carefully remove the stock motor housing and motor i am able to utilize the stock mount with the "new" HP motor and i get it all put back together, this is where the problem is.
I go to test the motor in the plane and now anywhere past half stick the motor starts to shutter and cut out. On the bench i was using a different esc, a 60 amp hobbywing i got from hobbypartz.com. I ran 2 batts thru the motor to make sure it was going to be fine, both test were about 6 min, the first one was just at half stick the hole time and the second one was mosly half stick but i did some full stick burst for 30 seconds.
So I'm thinking there is a couple explanations for this. One the timing on the stock superfly esc is too low and that is what is causing the stuttering or when i removed the stock motor there were extensions soldered onto the motor leads so that it could reach the esc, instead of soldering the new motor wires to the extension wires i just soldered up some female 3.5 mm bullets to the extensions since the HP motor already had some 3.5mm males on it and now there is some kind of extra resistance that wont allow the motor to spool all the way up. Could having two sets of bullets vs one cause this to happen?
I tried to enter a programming mode on the esc by leaving the throttle stick all the way up, but all i could get it to do is re calibrate, i never heard a beeping sequence like with most other esc's i have.
Sorry for the lengthy post I'm just trying to give all details available.
so i tried the stock motor with an APC 5.5x 4.5 and got a measly reading of 3 amps at WOT and it didn't have near the thrust.
Back to how i replaced it with the hobby people (HP) motor, I don't recall the exact specs of it but its either a 2208/09 or 2208/12 and i'm thinking its the 9 turn. Well i hooked it up in my vice and spun it up on the watt meter with the APC 5.5x 4.5 and with a fresh 3 s hobbypeople 2200 mah 20 c bat i got 17-18 amps and about 200 watts, now we're cookin i think.
So i weigh the stock motor with the 4 blade prop and it is around 95grams the HP motor with the prop and adapter was only 50 grams, even better i'm thinking.
So after i carefully remove the stock motor housing and motor i am able to utilize the stock mount with the "new" HP motor and i get it all put back together, this is where the problem is.
I go to test the motor in the plane and now anywhere past half stick the motor starts to shutter and cut out. On the bench i was using a different esc, a 60 amp hobbywing i got from hobbypartz.com. I ran 2 batts thru the motor to make sure it was going to be fine, both test were about 6 min, the first one was just at half stick the hole time and the second one was mosly half stick but i did some full stick burst for 30 seconds.
So I'm thinking there is a couple explanations for this. One the timing on the stock superfly esc is too low and that is what is causing the stuttering or when i removed the stock motor there were extensions soldered onto the motor leads so that it could reach the esc, instead of soldering the new motor wires to the extension wires i just soldered up some female 3.5 mm bullets to the extensions since the HP motor already had some 3.5mm males on it and now there is some kind of extra resistance that wont allow the motor to spool all the way up. Could having two sets of bullets vs one cause this to happen?
I tried to enter a programming mode on the esc by leaving the throttle stick all the way up, but all i could get it to do is re calibrate, i never heard a beeping sequence like with most other esc's i have.
Sorry for the lengthy post I'm just trying to give all details available.
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Prescott Valley,
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RE: motor cogging
TRy reprogramming the ESC and make sure you set the trrottle range. Some ESC require this option be set in order to work properly. Also, make sure you did not break loose one of the wires going to the motor. Usually, a broken or loose wire causes "cooging" from the get go!
#5
RE: motor cogging
If you do not have a disconnected wire from the ESC ( which I doubt, because you said the prop spun until you hit half throttle ), then your problem lies with ESC timing.
You'll need to adjust the ESC timing values to better handle the new motor.
Normally a bit of a hic-cup at throttle up, particularly at the low throttle settings is OK. This indicates that the ESC is optimally set for the higher RPM's.
When this happens at the high RPM's the ESC timing is waaayyy off. Try setting it to Medium and see if the problem goes away. If not try HIGH too.
Remember that with higher timing comes higher draw too, so you'll have to adjust accordingly.
What ESC are you using?
You'll need to adjust the ESC timing values to better handle the new motor.
Normally a bit of a hic-cup at throttle up, particularly at the low throttle settings is OK. This indicates that the ESC is optimally set for the higher RPM's.
When this happens at the high RPM's the ESC timing is waaayyy off. Try setting it to Medium and see if the problem goes away. If not try HIGH too.
Remember that with higher timing comes higher draw too, so you'll have to adjust accordingly.
What ESC are you using?
#6
Thread Starter
RE: motor cogging
esc is the stock super flyx esc, i don't know much about it other then it is rated for 20 amp. I looked in the owners manual but didn't find anything about programming the esc. Timing was my first thought. I tried putting the throttle stick to the full position and leaving it there until a little musical tone plays like a da da da daaa. Well that did happen but then nothing after that tone like a series of beeps or anything, once i moved the throttle stick back down the esc finished its arming sequence and that was it. I'm going to call the hobby shop and see if they can tell me anything about programming the esc, I'm not holding my breath though.
#7
Thread Starter
RE: motor cogging
welp its for sure the esc and the worst part is there is no way to change the timing. Hooked up a 60 amp esc with the extension leads and it powered up just fine. I would just run the 60 amp but it is over double the weight and i have to use an external bec with it cause the built in one stopped working after a crash in another plane.
Guess i can just put the stock motor back in and run it. Stock 4 blade prop really is a joke though. Hole in the center is too big and doesn't seat tightly on the prop adapter, makes for a bad wobble.
So much for a black friday deal. prolly end up getting a little 20 amp speedo from hobbypartz
Guess i can just put the stock motor back in and run it. Stock 4 blade prop really is a joke though. Hole in the center is too big and doesn't seat tightly on the prop adapter, makes for a bad wobble.
So much for a black friday deal. prolly end up getting a little 20 amp speedo from hobbypartz
#8
RE: motor cogging
The good news is that replacement 20A ESC's are not expensive. You can pretty much use anyone's 25A ESC given that you are not drawing over 17A or so.