Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Is it possible that she forgot to kill the throttle quick enough and the amps shot up because it was trying to turn a restricted prop?

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

forgot to answer dewilt's question.
No they do not sell the airframe kit for the original T-28. Only the newer one. Sorry. The only other way is to buy all the pieces separately. Then you might as well buy a PNP or BNF

WVrailfan

I was already working on my next T-28, so the unexpected end of my PZ Trojan is a little easier to take.

This is my FMS T-28 wrapped with Oracalpolyester and vinyl film. It flies great, a nice follow up to the PZ plane.



Jim

lbarnes

That is sweet.

Please tell me again in detail (I'm old) about the chrome covering. I have tried to cover many a plane using the Ultra coat chrome covering.

The biggest issue is if you get it too hot it will dull.

Please advise.

Larry

WVrailfan

I use vinyl and polyester self adhisive film used by sign makers.I use Oracal brand, but I'm sure 3M makes the same stuff. No heat needed, just cut to size peel and stick. I have covered 4 planes like this and I am very happy with the results. The film protects the foam in minor crashes. It is a bit heavier than paint, but not by much. I found the trick is to use very small pieces for the tight curves and wing tips, over lap working from rear to front.

Jim

guapoman2000

Okay, going back to the PARK ZONE T-28 TROJAN!!!!

Lessons Learned:

I highly recommend to check the AMP draw of the combined servo duty current draw and look out for higher than normal AMP draws. This is useful to detect a servo going bad and as in my case a Push Rod with a sleeve getting hung on the wire! All of which has the potential in losing your model (Crash).

I will be using my Watt Meter.
================================================== ========

Okay guys!

SUMMARY:

My model has crashed twice citing RF loss (Spektrum AR500). I have investigated and found the possible reason!!! Can you believe that the Nose Wheel Steering Rod / Sleeve was not allowing the servo to move!! The Sleeve was getting hung on the metal rod itself like someone taking a HOT Hair Blower and heat shrinking the sleeve material! Of course that is just describing how it felt when I took off the Push Rod from the Servo and tried to push it myself by hand.

I bought the model used so, no telling...

Anyway, I looked in my hobby drawer and found a Park Zone Replacement for the Elevator and cut to size for Nose Wheel Steering duty and all is fine now!!

However, my thoughts are that the BEC on board the Stock Switch Mode 30-AMP E-Flite ESC got overheated as a result from holding Full Right Rudder to perform Knife Edges and Bang, lower Voltage or Brown out and lost RF!

Okay a few pictures!










Taking no chances, I opened up a brand new AR600 and it is working perfect! I will however, place the old AR500 in my Slow Stick and Observe it closely for any RF faults and which I seriously doubt I will have any issues.


Business end:


Oh, my work with the Stock Motor!


FLIGHT SUMMARY:
This morning my model flew for the normal 7 minute flight and did not notice the bearing noise that much since it is at the lower RPMs.

The model performed flawlessly and those Knife Edges all around the field was spectacular as usual. No brown outs or loss of RF!

The landings (A few Touch & Goes) were completely successful and no issues with the Nose Wheel Steering.

I will monitor the motor bearing issue closely...

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

I've replaced several of those nose gear steering arms and never had to cut out the firewall like that, but I will admit it is difficult to get the push rod thru the arm. I do it by pulling the foam away from the back of the fire wall, pushing the arm down into the space, inserting the push rod, then spinning the arm around to fit up into the firewall. It is a jigsaw puzzle, but that firewall is so weak in that area, I'd be scared to cut any of it away. After I get the new arm in, I usually stuff an extra piece of foam behind the firewall to help stiffen it up.

guapoman2000

Jerry,

Thanks for your reply! I tried real hard to get that Push Rod "Wire" out from the Steering Arm and it was just not going to happen without breaking the Arm! Therefore, I did what I did.

The model has made several Touch & Goes without any issues. Plastic Firewall is pretty strong and material take off was pretty small.

Thanks!
Guapo

guapoman2000

here are a couple of pictures (some closeups) of my 3rd T-28 Trojan (my 2nd NAVY Trojan) Now I have 3 T-28's!!!!

As you can see it is in very good shape considering the amount of hands it has floated around!!!opcorn:

This will be my Full Featured Trojan Ship with Flaps and perhaps Electric Retracts as I have a few in my hobby drawer!opcorn:

lbarnes

FOR FIREWALL MODS CHECK THE BELOW LINJ AND MORE

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_92..._4/key_/tm.htm

guapoman2000

Passed through 4 batteries for countless Touch & Goes that I wore out the Firewall and nose gear passed through a crack on the plastic firewall yet, the model still taxi okay back!

It was pretty good early in the morning but, I got there late and it was blowing pretty good, just look at the last picture showing the make shift Wing Sock!

A few pictures showing my new 808 Keychain Camera on the wing!











[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjrnFdqO8aE[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1p_E9V3FFrc[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQeq6Qw3Yi8[/youtube]

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

I just bought one of those 808 cameras myself, just came in the mail. I have it plugged into my USB port and I think the battery is charging right now. I have a slow flashing yellow light. Any tips on how to understand the instructions, starting the video, stopping, downloading?

lbarnes

I have 3 of them. Did you get the instructions???

The harddest to understand is setting the time and date stamp. It is easy once you figure it out.

Yellow light is charging. Light out is off. To start recording you press the button, yellow comes on and then goes out.

To stop recording press button again.

At least that is how mine work.

Larry

guapoman2000

Jerry,

The instructions that came with the 808 Camera was pretty good, a little strange on the sentence structure but, nevertheless okay for what they were trying to convey into English.

However, where I purchased mine, they claimed that this was a High Definition Camera and especially for Video capture and it was NOT so, I e-mailed the seller through eBay and just yesterday, I received a FULL REFUND citing that the seller had some sort of supplier issue for not sending the High Definition. Even though it is not High Definition, I am pleased with it considering the little $$ for it and now for FREE!

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

The one I have is probably not HD either, but that's fine for what I want to do. I've got the recording and downloadin figured out. Now I just can't understand their instructions for changing the time and date display. Mine is displaying Jan 2009 and I can't find any way of changing it. Any help you could give me on that would be appreciated.

guapoman2000

It is pretty easy.

At the ROOT directory of the mini-SD Card, just modify this:

2012-05-01 23:59:59

Save it in a pure TEXT File and place the file at the ROOT Directory at the mini-SD Card as TAG.TXT

and once you power up the camera, it should correct the date.

guapoman2000

Got some good footage of chasing another RC Airplane model (GLOW) with my T-28 Navy!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFB7xiGkF8Y[/youtube]

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

Nice video!
I bought another 808 from a local store and returned the first one, should be getting a replacement for it soon and then I'll have one to mount on another plane. The instructions that came with this new 808 are much better. Evidently the first one I bought is a Chinese knock off, or at least the intructions were. It was definitely defective, this new one works just like the manual says it should.

I got some video today with my T-28, but it's not as good as your video. I mounted the camera out near the left aileron because I wanted the prop out of view. The placement was good idea except I didn't realize how much off balance it was going to make the plane. It fought me the whole time and I pretty much had to hold full right aileron to keep it flying. As a result, the video will almost make you dizzy trying to watch it as the plane is constantly banking left or right. I'm not even going to bother trying to post it.
I like the placement and the angle I had the camera mounted, so I'm going to put some counter weight on the right wing and try again. Will probably mount it on my Super Cub and try that too.

guapoman2000

Thanks Jerry, glad you are enjoying my Videos!

Here is another one that I recorded this afternoon!

Had to thread my NAVY Trojan in between row of tress and come over the Power Pod station at the High School considering the direction of the wind.

https://vimeo.com/56392017

guapoman2000

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHIyMG35uAE[/youtube]

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

Cool video! I recognized some of the landscape too! My family went to Disney this spring. Two of my daughters are in the high school marching band and they perform at Epcot every couple of years. We stayed four days and had a great time, looking foward to coming back in a year or two. I'm envyous of your weather right now! I flew twice today, 37 degrees F and Lipo's don't like that so I didn't fly long. I've also had to fly without nose steering a time or two. Not as fun on the ground, but once you get in the air it's fine.

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

Well, I was going to upload a video, but I can't seem to find a format that RCU will accept, how did you save your video to be able to upload it?
Here's a link to it on youtube, only way I could get it to post.
youtu.be/xdlVAWXh4W8

guapoman2000

Hi guys!

Several days ago my beloved Park Zone T-28D Airforce crashed due to the rush to fly itch and well you can see for yourselves the results:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1788300

Now, fast forward we have a very successful repair results and a few items to note that the Nose Wheel Steering arm had to be replaced, the motor mount, Motor, ESC and of course the Receiver. My personal taste was to go back to the solid and less sophisticated yet very solid 72-Mhz Castle Creations BERG 4-Channel DSP receiver. The only thing that did not need to be replaced was the 3-Blade Master Airscrew 10 X 7 X 3 propeller!

EDIT: (Sorry for forgetting what kind of Glue I used!)
In the past, I have used WHITE GLUE (The stuff used at schools) such as Elmer's Glue, as it cures without leaving any residue and the bond is very strong, however, due to the long cure time you need to secure the two items together for a long time. Since the FUSE was slightly deformed up front that required some strong forming, I used the CA.

Using most exclusively CA and Accelerator such as:



A few pictures of the progress!!

Old Nose Wheel Steering Arm:



New Nose Wheel Steering Arm:


New Power System & Receiver:


FUSE Repairs:




















Receiver Mounting:


ESC Mounting:






Motor Mount (Old on Left & New on Right!):


Motor Mounting:


Painting and other Touch Ups:
























Heading to the Flying Field (Smooth Concrete) for re-maiden!!

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Nice job. Can we get some more pictures

lbarnes

Nice job. I have 2 T-28's and both have had there share of crashes. You might want to try a craft glue E6000. This glue is great on EPP, EPO foam (do not use on styro, pink, blue foam). The glue is thick and flexable. It does not harden like epoxy of CA. It dries clear and can be painted.

I have used it on wings, fuse and works great...


Larry