Capt Easy

All I can say is I will never use DEVCON 30 MINUTE 2 TON EPOXY ever again unless I'm in a real big hurry. The Epo Grip looks like a good option.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

If I remember I will take a closeup of the modified Sullivan tailwheel installation on mine tomorrow. Very little to alter and the improvement in handling is nice. It also removes any chance for stress on the rudder or servo.

Capt Easy

Thanks Cougar, that would help a lot.....

I've been researching the net and found a nice detailed close up of the tailwheel for reference, so if you can take some photos of your modified install I'd really appreciate it.
I was thinking of tying another control rod onto the rudder contol rod like I've done before but your point about stressing the servo is well taken. I'm looking forward to your modification.

Here's a couple good pics in case anyone else may be interested. (The wheel is swiveled to the rear in this case from backing the plane into the hanger.)

Best,

Dick

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Who retails the Epo-Grip epoxy?

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Here are the pics. In the first is the stock installation. The heavy wire fits through a large hinge half that was bonded into the aft fuselage and the bent wire end then is bonded into the rudder itself where the extra balsa siding has been fit for reinforcement. Unfortunately, even with a step soldered to the wire to transfer vertical loads to the mount bracket, any torque loads go directly into the rudder, linkage and servo control.

Since the original setup had already been installed and flown, cutting off the rudder was not an option. To modify the setup I simply cut the wire just at the base of the rudder with a Dremel cutoff wheel. This retains the heavy hinge point at the bottom of the rudder where the control horn is bolted and works out to be the strongest method. The next step is relatively easy with the Sullivan tailwheel bolting to the original pad. You may have to extend that pad forward or have the option of shortening the mount accordingly. Either way it simply requires new holes and if done during construction it is even easier.

The Sullivan has a spring that is simply inserted into the bottom of the rudder to transfer steering inputs. Take that spring and insert it into the balsa, then wick in thin CA to bond and harden the balsa around that point. Just ensure you get good penetration and none on the spring itself.

You can paint the plastic bracket to match the fuselage to make it a bit more unobtrusive. In the case of the Harvard/Texan that bracket is similar to the stock suspension cover.

The bonus is the new suspension also removes the tendency for the original tailwheel to bounce on rough ground and possibly drive the plane over onto the nose. Retaining better ground contact also improves steering control immensely.

maddieone

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Lifer,

I had to order it online. Google or whatever to get to the manufacture's site.

jet22b

Lifer,
Here is the link to their website!!
http://epogrip.com/
Sonny
aka
jet22b

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks to both of you!

Capt Easy

Cougar,
That looks like a better set up. Thanks for taking time to take the pictures and sending the info. I like it however, I'm thinking I'd like to try something with a more scale appearance. It'll require some serious surgery from what it looks like so far because the bottom of the fuse looks like it's pretty thick balsa at least in that area. I'll post whatever I come up with but it probably won't be as easy I'm sure. It may end up with your modification by the time I get done with it.
Thanks very much once again,
Dick

Capt Easy

It's been a while since I'd had a chance to do any more work on my TF (SNJ) Texan but I thought since I'm doing an electric conversion it might be of interest to some especially if anyone else is considering oing EP or has competed one.

A Tacon Bigfoot 60 400Kv motor has now been mounted with an adjustable aluminum mount to the firewall. All control surface servos and retract servo have been installed as well.

The next step is to try to relocate and design a more scale tailwheel, then layout and cut a top hatch to access the power and Rx batteries.

Additonal planned mods include a sliding canopy, semi scale, detailed cockpit followed by fuselage and wing panel lines with some possible riveting. Some lights might be interesting too.....

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Keep us informed with lots more pics, please.

jet22b

Capt. East,
Your setup is looking good!!! Please keep the pictures coming and don't forgot the flight report after the maiden flight!!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

Capt Easy

Will do guys..... however the scale tailwheel has me at a standstill for now. I can't find the reference I need to do a proper drawing. I've got a fairly good idea for the side view but need an underside shot to fully understand how it's made and operates.

If anyone has any drawings or detailed photos please let me know. This "ARF" suggests the beginnings of being a rather more involved build at this rate. I'll keep posting whenever I come up with something of interest though.

Best,

Dick

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

I don't have any drawings or pics, but can hopefully describe the mechanism.

The tailwheel was designed to have some form of suspension with the forward attachment of the tailwheel assembly rotating via a pivot inside the fuselage. That should be relatively evident in the pics in post #653. The tailwheel bracket itself is simple in concept with two aluminum fairings along the front bottom and rear to add some aerodynamic cleanup, (really a miniscule fraction of drag on this plane) and neaten things up a bit.

In your case you have a few options. One simple solution, used with the tailwheel on my Rare Bear, has a normal tailwheel assembly with the leaf spring mounted to a plate recessed into the tail. Only the wheel and part of the trunnion protrude beyond a thin glass closeoff plate to hide the larger opening used to work in that area. I cleaned things up and made the mech a bit more elegant by moving the steering bracket to above the pivot point as this not only made the angle of the springs to the rudder steering bar more linear, it also removed a tendency for the tailwheel steering arms to rub against the cover when airborne. As your rudder is considerably different in design a possible steering option would be a secondary, smaller nyrod or pull/pull run back up to the rudder servo to keep everything internal.

Tried to post a couple of Rare Bear, but getting an error. Will try later. In the meantime here is the online manual. The mount and tailwheel installation begins Pg 13:

http://www.powertoys.se/media/conten...r/40tt4571.pdf

Capt Easy

Cougar,
Thanks so much for taking time to share that info. from what you mentioned it sounds exactly like what I've been able to put together so far. I did find a great couple ref photos last night that help explain what you've described as far as the mechanical detail. My interpretation of how to treat the internal mechanics is still a bit fuzzy but will come together. A leaf spring seems possible attachted to the swivel...not sure yet. I've started laying out an access panel on the bottom rear of the fuse to cut for installing a mount for the suspension assembly which I'll need to study on yet. Once I open up some access it may be more clear.
I'll take a look at the link to the manual for the tailwheel mount.
Thanks again, I'll check back later.
Dick

edit: I took a look at the manual and will try to implement some of that depending on what it looks like inside after I open it up. I have a Du-Bro 40-90 size semi scale tail wheel system but will see if I can use it in conjunction with a scale type SNJ/T-6 Texan "J" type axle instead of the yoke.

Capt Easy

Cougar,

Given the Sullivan Tailwheel resembles the full scale tailwheel assembly, that looks like it would be a logical solution and just fashion a fairing around it. A pull-pull to the rudder servo would be my choice then as well. I've only done one so far but I don't think it looks too difficult. At least I hope not.

I'll start looking for a Sullivan Tailwheel System but but meantime, I still need to cut the access panel out at this point yet. If you or anyone has anything to add please do.

Thanks,

Dick

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

That's what I immediately thought when trying to fix the ground handling problem on mine. It would need to move forward to be true to scale. but I did not think it worth the effort nor trying to counter the loss of steering angle that would result.

One of these days I will have to cross the border and try to find a paint match to UltraCote Cub Yellow. As mine has several items such as the cowl, center wing cover, canopy frame and that Sullivan tailwheel to finish, I invested close to $100 at an auto paint house with horrible results. We recently went green up here and paints are, to put it mildly, complete crap when it comes to our hobby. They do not match very well, cover without applying the entire can, run like hell and are not fuelproof.

Capt Easy

Cougar,
That's a shame you had to spend so much money and ended up with such disappointing results. I imagine that's got to be a major source of frustration. I've used acyrlic with good results but that won't help you with fuel.
I'm holding off on the tailwheel work till I have aSullivan tailwheel assembly. I guess the top battery hatch would be a logical next step then so I'll take a good look at that and see what I need to do.
Best,
Dick

TomTreese

My Feedback: (1)

Try an Auto Paint store that does custom painting. They matched a couple of model paint jobs for me that were perfect matches for about $10.00 for a 3 oz jar. It is a lacquer however, Volitile???

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

As I mentioned I did go to an auto paint supply house. In the past I've had no problems at all, including once showing up with the RH door from our heli to match the 3 different paint colors used, (I was replacing a lower nose window which required removing the framework). They came out with what appeared to be a hand held floodlight and touched it against the areas. The results were perfect for all the colors.

Unfortunately, as I also mentioned the newer, water-based paints we're forced to use here are simply horrible. The only off-the-shelf, spray cans that are fuelproof are engine paints and the color choices are limited. I still had a few of the earlier model paints to use up and can say one spray pass was all that was necessary to cover smoothly. the newer paints lack so much pigment that the entire can is required to hide any underlying definition and spraying without runs is damned near impossible unless you are prepared to work with dozens of exceedingly thin coats. The problem there is it will not then be enough to get a smooth surface finish.

Although not in any class a professional, I have been successfully working with cans and spray guns for my entire adult life and with the new offerings have not figured out how to get any reasonable finish.

There are some good ones and I am currently on the last stages of a Saturn V for my grandson. Unfortunately even the sight of the fuel can makes then run and hide.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Capt Easy, I dug through my spares and found the Sullivan tailwheel I used is Part # S860

Along with the bracket and mounting hardware two different spring types are included.

Capt Easy

Tower here I come again...
Thanks Cougar,
Dick

Capt Easy

Details to the SNJ are continuing at a pretty slow pace but it's moving along. The tail wheel mod is on hold for now but will follow through on it after I complete some of the other stuff.
I had an opportunity to do some detailed photos over the past weekend while three Texans showed up at the locval airport for the Anniversary of Pearl Harbor. Got lots of pics of the instrument panels and tail wheel to help out with my build.

Attatched photos represent new scratch built instrument panels the stock TF panels are impressive but after studying internet referencs I had to do make own. The turnover mast was modified a little too. I'm not certain how far to take the cokpit detailing since the servos are installed per manual instrutions. I'm playing it by ear at the moment but enjoying it. The fwd hatch has been cut for the battery also.

Capt Easy

The entire top deck off has now been removed and the original servo tray relocated in a lower poistion. The idea is to allow a more scale cockpit. It'll add more work but I think it may be worth it.
Photos will be added soon as I can get to it but I'll be away from home and unabel to get anything done for a while more.
Best,
ce

jet22b

Capt Easy;
The AT-6 is looking very good. Please keep us in the loop!!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b