Leroy Gardner

Turf tires are out, adding a block under the gear does'nt fair well, the engine has'nt been ran yet so I suppose testing props after break in is in order. I figured some of you have delt with this issue and I was looking for a short cut. There is alot of info on this engine so I'll go back and read more before I do the break in. Thanks all.

acdii

Short cuts usually wind up as short lives.   Listen to the advice given, it will save you cash down the road.

RiverLarry

+ 1 on that !!!! ACDII

And dont scemp out on parts

I all ways try to give my build the best chance I can cutting a corner can cost you a bird !!!

save a $1.00 and it could cost you $100.00 in the long runor more !!!! My 0.02 R/L

armody

My Feedback: (10)

Just one question regarding DLE20 popped up in my mind. When it comes to glow motor, it's OK to fly it on full-throttle throughout the flight time and I had been doing that like 5 years ago not anymore. What about gas motor, it does not have methanol to cool the motor of, is it OK to fly it continuously on full-throttle and it won't affect the motor? Or do we have to keep making the sporadic changes in throttle like idle to half to 3/4 etc?

Thanks

Mody

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

I fly my DLE's at full-throttle 98% of every flight. They seem to thrive on it. As long as the cooling is adequate, go for it.

armody

My Feedback: (10)

Cool,

Thanks rcguy59, I'd try to do that [8D]

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

armody,

I've been accused of flying 2-speed engines; full blast and approach speed. Go for it!

acdii

The DLE pretty much has 2 speeds. Once you get past half throttle, it pretty much is running full blast.  The only suggestion is to have telemetry on it to show the head temps in flight. Came with my DX8, so I gave it a shot.

afjetmech

+1 on that! Been screaming my DLE20 in a Revolver 70 at full throttle for about 2 years now. Occasionly pull it back to half and putt around a couple times then boredom sets in and its back to full throttle until landing time. Chop it to idle on approach and bring it in slow or fast depending entirely on how high Iam when the throttle goes to idle. Using cheap Pro Mix oil from Lowes at 32:1 the whole time. Love this engine/plane combination!!

rrengineer

My Feedback: (3)

Just got this ignition from Hobby King that is supposed to be for 55CC motors. Just wondering if anyone had ordered this ignition after it was mentioned a while back here in this thread and installed it yet. Just wondering if it will cure the idle "step" using the #4 ignition that came with my DLE 20. For 24 bucks it was worth a shot.
Mike

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Assuming that the "idle step" really was causing what's ailing your engine, sure! I'm assuming the spark plug boot is the right size?

armody

My Feedback: (10)

It means that DLE20 can be run on full-blast and there is gonna be no harm to it, pretty cool Thanks Lifer, acdii, afjetmech!

The synthetic oil I'm using is Klotz, that's what I found and with this motor I'd continue to use it. Since I'm planning to get another plane & engine, I might use a different synthetic oil or probably the same Klotz, so I do not have to use two different gas cans

Time for some questions

1. Once a gallon ran through the motor with Klotz mixed synthetic oil on the motor. Next fuel can be mixed with Red Line or Stihl or Penzzoil, would it make a difference in motor's performance? Yes or No? Is it better to stick with the same oil mix as you started off in the first place?
I'm also using STA-BIL fuel stabilizer for the same fuel

http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/


2. When we run the motor on the ground either on the stand or installed on the desired plane, why it is said that do not run a lot on the ground is it true or not? Is it OK to run a whole gallon on DLE20 being on the ground? Why is it different running the motor on the ground as compared to flying it, is it due to temperature variations?

3. How do we know that carb needs cleaning, since DLE20 does not come with Walbro carb. I was also told to take care of some of the part of the carb or clean it before you fly it, I apologize I do not remember what part of carb was that.

4. Throttle comes with a spring factory fitted why is it advised to remove it?

5. When would we know it's time to change the plug?

Guys, those are a lot of questions, and honestly it would take a lot of time to answer that, but a lot of y'all may have gone through all those experiences, since I'm Newbie gasser especially on DLE20 so I'm trying to get as much data as possible

Thank y'all

Mody

rrengineer

My Feedback: (3)

I have not even checked the spark plug boot yet. Just got it in the mail yesterday. Not going to change it out right away. The "idle Step" is really not a big deal, just wanted a back up ignition replacement and this was very cheap.
Mike

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Oil choice is fine, stick with the mfg. recommended percentage.

Run it in the air after the first tank.

Clip the tang off the spring, but leave the spring itself there to keep the butterfly in tension.

Replace the plug with a CM-6. Gap it with an xacto blade.

Leave the carb alone unless it gives you trouble. Factory needles are a STARTING point, you will need to adjust!

Read up on the entire DLE 20 thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Mody, many of us are running the DLE 20 required 32:1 mix in everything, even though 40:1 (or less) oil is required in some of the bigger stuff - for the reason you mention - not having to deal with more than one can of fuel. Keeping it simple avoids confusion and the potential to grab the wrong one...and the extra oil run through the bigger ones isn't hurting a thing. Using just one jug also helps keep the fuel fresher. I'm of the notion that a quality oil includes fuel stabilizer, but that's an opinion. I don't use Stabil or anything else in mine and have had no trouble. Your mileage may vary....

I buy oil off the shelf, wherever it's handy. Anything that says "approved for use in air cooled engines" is good enough for me.

Running the engine on the ground cannot duplicate the loads or cooling that will be realized in the air. For the same reasons, carb settings cannot be expected to stay the same - ground vs. in flight.

There was a leave it connected/disconnect it string regarding that spring earlier. MANY opinions stretched across quite a few pages. What I learned from it are there are pretty good arguments to go either way. So, your call. It would appear you can't possibley be wrong!

You would change the plug or clean the carb when you can't get it running right. Logic would have you check the easy stuff first....

Stop worrying and asking questions and go fly that thing will ya! -Al

acdii

When it comes to oil any 2 stroke rated oil that you get at the auto stores will be fine.  Avoid no name oils, or "specials". 

 You can run it in on the ground for a few tanks, but why waste the gas when you can be flying.  You don't need to run it in like a glow, once you have it tuned, which is usually about one tank of gas, it doesnt have the tendency to conk out in flight like a glow does.

As far as the spring, it puts tension against the servo when open, so you have to keep that in mind, I disconnected it on mine, no sense loading the servo.

As for the rest, You'll figure it out as you play with it.    Also use the NGK plug.

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

rrengineer..

I'm the guy that came up with the HK ignition, been running it now for a month or so, maybe 25 or 30 flights. Working just fine, has vastly improved certain 3D style maneuvers with my Mojo such as harrier landings. high alpha stuff, etc where you need to really work the throttle in the lower RPM ranges. Before I was often fighting that "step".

Easy change. Comes with the plug for a CM-6, just unplug the old one, plug in the new one. No need to change the sensor.

The #4 is now the spare!

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

has anyone used theevolution 10cc gas engine yet

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

They'll need to release it first.

RiverLarry

+ 1 on getting the little motor out !!!

I wonder if there will be 242 pages on it also !!!

Armody Gas the 20 up and go fly it cant be that hard if it wont start then clean the carb !!!

I wonder if any of thes people ever cut grass or cut wood ?????

boostoman

are you talking about this engine

http://hdflyer.com/meridian-10cc-arf...cc-gas-engine/

Leroy Gardner

I got the DLE20 hanging on the front of this Tiger 60 which is being bashed for it. With the gear and 2 3/4" wheels I have 2" of clearance with a 16" prop in the plane position, I think that will be enough but I may go with a little larger wheel.

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

The problem with the Evo 10cc as I see it is the requirement for 20:1 gas/oil mix. Needle bearings on the rod were a great addition, but the ABC P/L setup is a deal-breaker. With a ringed piston, the oil requirement would be considerably less, possibly even 32:1. I'd love to have a gasser that small, but the thought of yet ANOTHER fuel jug turns me off. As it is, I need one for 30% glow 1/2A's, one for 10% glow, one for 32:1 gas mix and one for kerosene/oil mix for my turbines. A guy's got to draw the line somewhere! Besides, I just can't help it that I like 'em all.

Ernie Misner

Follow that link and it mentions that the ignition is half the size of most ignition units. Maybe it is setting a new standard there.

wesjon

My Feedback: (1)

Hi guys. I would like to swap out my ignition on my DLE20 (#4) with the standard one from RCEXL. Don't want to fly my warbird with that throttle step and can't seem to tune around it successfully. My question is: how do I set BTDC to 28' ,as the original hall sensor can only be retarded to 37'. I gather I need a hall sensor with longer attachment brackets? Does this come with the standard RCEXL ignition?

thanks
Wes