B-Squared

Just tried again...still no luck.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I see the lock, I think lol.. Just remember any weight you add you hafta multiply X3 (or more) to counter ballance it at the nose.

B-Squared

Guess its working now...

B-Squared

BobH...the past center lock is an integral part of the retract mechanism and fortunately it is pretty light. Along the topic of keeping things light in the tail...I replaced the screw and washer with a basswood nut and nylon 4-40 bolt to assist in attaching the stab to the fuse. And I guess you could consider the extra set of off center hinge point holes I drilled in the trailing egde of the stab "lightening holes" as well...OOPS. Here are a few pics of the everything together. I still need to add a strip of 1/64" ply to the training edge of the stab to cover the hinge line.

B-Squared

So I got to the point where I wanted to see it all together...put it on legs so to speak. The center section has the dowels in the leading edge but no attachment points at the trailing edge so I used an aluminum clamp to hold the section to the fuse. The tail wheel shock absorber worked as prescribed the problem now is that as the shock absorber "flexes" it causes slack in the pull-pull cables. A buddy suggested springs in the cable to take up the slack...

Q1. If I try to turn the tailwheel will the springs just extend instead of turning the tail wheel. Anyone else have this happen? Any suggestions out there? Maybe its a matter of finding just the right tension springs.

Q2. I loaded up the airframe with all the hardware, servos, batteries, cowl, ailerons etc., etc. with the exception of the aft fuse and gull section sheeting, Saito 450r (6.2lbs), glass (maybe water based, maybe zpoxy...haven't decided) and paint/decals. I'm at 20lbs even. Anybody out there been able to keep this kit under 28lbs?

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Awesome!

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Looks like you have taken off some of the weight from the tail, good! Stiff springs may work ok on the pull pull but why use that? Why not a single rod off of one side of the shaft. Either pull or push, right or left. You can use a "servo saver" to help on the servo end.. that also negates the need for the "centering" spring you have.

B-Squared

I thought about using a rod early on but the distance from the servo to the steering arm changes considerably when the tail wheel is retracted and extended.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

You can't support the rod along its length? Seems an easy fix, sorta. I haven't built the TF GS Corsair but I did build the Gold edition one many years ago. Decent flying plane with one exception. I had difficulty getting the plane to groove on final. Perhaps it was my fault? The plane was glassed, scaled out etc so.. heavy. Any way I always had to be very careful during landings.

B-Squared

Hi BobH...it's not so much a matter of supporting the rod, it's that the DISTANCE between the rudder/tailwheel steering servo and the steering arm on the tailwheel itself changes when the tailwheel is retracted. When the tailwheel is extended the distance is longer from the tail wheel steering arm to the servo than when it is retracted. A solid rod would not work for that reason. In the Youtube link above, you can see that the cables go slack when the tailwheel is retracted.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Gotcha. A solid rod is a problem unless you want to fashion something different like that used on the full scale plane. Those planes had either castoring wheels or locked straight for take off and landings. A pin indexed from the rearside of the aft of the plane into the steering shaft would do such a thing. Some engineering but maybe not to much?

B-Squared

Instead of using the kit supplied 1/8" balsa sheeting, I opted for the more expensive but hopefully lighter 3/32" sheeting for the fuse. So the weight I saved in the sheeting I decided to make up in strengthening the belly aft of the wing saddle with extra spars. Here the pics of the spars and the sheeting. The last two pics show the hatch I built to cover the tailwheel access.

B-Squared

Here's the dirty side aft end.

B-Squared

I think I may have resolved the issue of the tailwheel cable "floppiness" issue when the tail wheel is retracted. I shrink wrapped the cable ends that SHOULD prevent them from binding of formers and at the same time keep them stiff enough (mainly at the servo end) to keep them from interfering with the rudder and elevator pushrod. I haven't hooked up the tail cables since I made the "mod" so I stress the word should. The last picture is just me finally finishing the wing saddle with 1/64" ply.

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Enjoying your progress shots B-Squared. I don't know if I mentioned it previously but I was present at the demise of the Super Corsair during the Phoenix 500 air races. It is, quite fortunately, the only plane crash I have personally witnessed. I would prefer it remain that way! The things I remember the most clearly are the absolute silence of the crowd as the burning Corsair pitched over into its final dive and then the massive chear when Eldridge's chute opened. The airplane was too far away to actually see him leave the cockpit so it was not until the chute opened that it became apparent he was out. An event I will surely never forget but one which I do not wish to repeat.

B-Squared

In my quest to find a premade cowl to fit this airplane I've come to one conclusion...there is none. Fiberglass Specialties has a radial cowl thats 10 3/8" diameter (I need about 10 3/4") but doesn't have the correct taper. I've looked at Sea Fury cowlings other Corsair kit cowls but have had very little success. If anyone out there knows knows of any possible solutions, I'm all ears.
I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) the AllCoast Super Corsair used a Douglas A-26 cowling with an intake scoop on the top of the cowl. I know Don Smith Plans makes a 120 some odd inch A-26 but I have been unable to find out the diameter of the cowls for those plans.

In the meantime, I started messing around with the kit supplied cowl. The taper is better...I'll still have to do some modification there...and the diameter is too small now...but I have an idea to fix that as well. I figure no matter what cowl I get, I'm going to have to mess with it. Here's a start...nothing is glued yet, just screwed together.

Next building session I hope to get the elevator and fin covered, final filling and sanding of the fuse and who knows maybe even get the stab and fin mounted.

B-Squared

Thanks for looking Chad...I'm sure having fun building this thing. I wish the progress was a bit quicker...my only building time is from 5AM to 7AM a few days a week. After 7 the kids are up and then its all about them...HA! I have seen the YOUTUBE video of the crash but to have actually been there at the Phoenix 500 must have been something else. I look at the fire-ball that crash created and wonder why the recent P-51 crash at Reno (fortunately) did not. One of these days I would love to get out to Reno and see these airplanes in person. From what I've read about Corsairs, they can only be pulled so fast...the Sea Fury's, Mustangs and Bearcats seem to have the aero dynamics needed to win the races these days.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

I had to make up a cowl for a Hughes racer and used the good old "lost foam mold" method. It took four layers of four ounce cloth and polyester resin around the mold. After the foam was removed, I applied another layer with epoxy resin to the inside. Had to do some surgery to get the engine exposed. It has held up with no problems for about 100 flights. Dan.

B-Squared

Nice work Dan...Did you turn the foam plug on a lathe. What method did you use to get the foam out once you fiberglassed it. You've got me thinking...hmmm.

eugene

I have the RCGF 62.....Not quite a G-62, but adequate dependable power for a 1/5 scale....

One thing to watch for.....the brass reducer for the spark plug needs attention to prevent loosening in operation..
I cleaned the threads with acetone, and put a film of JB WELD on the insert and head.threads. It's a permanent fixture anyway
and this is a solid fix...

eugene

I have the RCGF 62.....Not quite a G-62, but adequate dependable power for a 1/5 scale....

One thing to watch for.....the brass reducer for the spark plug needs attention to prevent loosening in operation..
I cleaned the threads with acetone, and put a film of JB WELD on the insert and head.threads, then torqued it down... It's a permanent fixture anyway
and this is a solid fix...

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the compliment. I wish I had room for a lathe but I don’t. The foam mold was sanded by hand. It’s not perfect but looks good enough. I used planks of two and one inch foam carefully cut to the diameters necessary. They were well centered before being epoxied together. None of the epoxy was close to the final surface to avoid having to sand in to it. A template was used to make sure I was heading in the right direction. I dug out the foam with a screw driver. A wire wheel on a drill cleaned off the interior surface. That's where I epoxied on the last layer of cloth. Dan.

B-Squared

Hi Eugene...thanks for the RCGF advice. I think I read that very same thing on another thread. Although I think I'm going to use a Saito 450r on my Corsair (thats my plan this week anyway) I'll probably use the 62 on something else...a P-47 perhaps. Could you be a bit more specific in comparing it to the G-62...I would be very interested in your comments.

Hey Dan..thanks for getting back to me. If my "stock" cowl experiment falls flat (funny how my ideas always work perfectly in my head) I may end up using your method. A couple questions I have...

1. Where did you get the foam?
2. What computer program did you use to generate those diagrams?
3. Was there a reason you used polyester resin vs. a Z-Poxy or some other brand/
4. The plug you created looks almost perfect...what did you use to sand it and will you make one for me...HA!

eugene

Mine was on a 24# P-47......I have another P-47 with the G-62.....The Zenoah has a couple hundred more Rs on the top end but thats about the only difference that would matter. That's With a 22/10 XOAR on both , a 22/8 worked best on the RCGF....

B-Squared

Thanks Eugene...I'm guessing from your comments a 23" or 24" prop would be too much for the RCGF? I hoping to keep my corsair to 29-30lbs.