vibi08

If you check the pictures in the first page you will see how i change the wing to be in three pieces.

Rebel Flyr

My Feedback: (30)

My bag,,, [X(] I thought that I was typing back and forth with a651. He is also building a D Vlll,,, I guess I need to start paying more attention to whats going on

vibi08

No problem. Ther must be dozen of way to build the wings for this plane...

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

So far it's a two piece. That's a decision I need to make here in the next few days, before I can start sheeting. I'm already made up my mind to use a receiver in the wing and seperate battery to run the alieron servos. As long as you remember to turn it ofof, shoudl be great. I'm also considering making the wing "semi one piece", I. E. instead of epoxying the center ribs togther, I'll use nuts and bolts to join them. Self locking, W/ threadlocker btw. Then just sheet the center of the wing as if it's a one piece. That way, if there's a catastrophy, I can still unsheet the center of the wing and unbolt one half.

Rebel Flyr

My Feedback: (30)

Here is a picture of my wing bolted up… When bolted the wing is as strong and sturdy as a one piece wing. All I have to do is build my hatch cover... As you can see plenty of room for the battery, receiver and switch. No problem at all getting to the socket head screws with the allen wench… I also went with a carbon fiber tube to save a little weight.

vibi08

I use SR batteries 3000mah. They are very big and are both near the firewall to help balance. Even with the batteries there and with a relatively heavy engine, i put 7 pounds of weight to balance. I strongly suggest that you pre-check the balance prior covering. At least, it will be possible to lighten some areas on the rear.

We have to keep in mind that these planes were using a very heavy rotary engine.

Rebel Flyr

My Feedback: (30)

I see no way to take any weight off the tail,, it’s finished other than the paint.. I was seriously thinking about a G-62 with a prop drive system. That would put my engine in the 10 pound plus range and also let me swing a 30 to a 32 inch prop… Sounds really good and looks more scale. Check this bad boy out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6g9ScnZbTw&feature=plcp

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

I've seen 1/3 scales fly with the G-62 reduction system. It's a ton of power, and very quiet.

I was thinking about a GT 80 upfront, but without extending the cowl, or doing some major modifications it just won't work. As it is the ZDZ is going to be tight. Extending the cowl and using the Zenoah would help with balance, I know of one R-W that's flying with that engine, and an extended firewall, with no extra lead to balance up front. There's a guy somewhere here who made his horizontal stab out of carbon fiber and spruce (I think) strips. The way he did it gave him a great scale airfoil shape. And its probablly lighter than what I made.... but other than that, or changing the way the plane was made (Carbon Fiber tube longerons aft of former #3, anyone?) I don't see how you could get the tail any lighter.
I did deviate a bit and made the vertical fin out of sticks instead of the 3/8 sheet the plans call for, but other than that....

2walla

My Feedback: (10)

A guy in my club has one he built 15 or so years ago. A tube wing joiner would be a big improvement. Great flyer with an os bgx and a big chunk o lead... I have the busa 1/4 scale and it flies great on a g 26. Keep at it!!

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

So out to the garage today for some fun in the cold. I still need to work the wing joiners a little bit, there is some slop in the way they fit into the spars, and I personally don't like that. I still need to add another 1/2" piece of balsa to the leading edge and then start Carving! and sanding to get the correct shape. I wanted to wait untill I was able to join the wings before I started, as I want to match those profiles up fairly closely. I also need to taper the piece facing teh alieron cutout, and pick up some balsa blocks to make the wingtips. I got the wing mount hard points installed, along with the reinforcements on the ribs. I'm going to add another piece of plywood on the bottom of the wing, so that the struts don't cave in the balsa sheeting when I attach the wing. Still got a little gap between the wing roots, but nothing a little balsa false rib won't fix......

Rebel Flyr

My Feedback: (30)

If you are making a two piece wing and you’re talking about the gap between the center half’s where the wing joins together... … I would put some wax paper on one side and use a bondo or plastic type filler on the other. Join the two half’s and let it spread out and fill in any gaps between the two center ribs…after it sets, then take it apart and your gaps will be filled in for a perfect fit. Anything that runs out can be sanded off..
I think that the plastic filler I here people are using is called Evercoat I have to get some also. From what I’ve read it’s superior filler that sand easy,,, 2 part like bondo
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=33

robster1

My Feedback: (37)

please tell me who cut your kit.

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

Cut by Camden Custom Cutter. Pm me Rob if you get a sec....

Rebel Flyer

The one I have has a two piece wing. You don't really notice the gap very much. I never take it apart either. It will fit in a mini-van.

Mine was built awile back and has seen alot of the New England area and the East coast and flies very well. It is extremly detailed. Has a Zenoa G-62 for power.

I have about 10 flights on it now. I thought it would be underpowered but it is WAY too fast at full throttle once you get it up. Half throttle is perfect.

You have to fly it until it stops completly. Not easy to fly at all. Looks good in the air though.

I am building a half scale Dr-1 now and sadly, I might have to let this go to help finance the new bird.

I will most likely list it for sale after the New year.

Rebel Flyer.

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

So I ran up against a little issue today. I Put the ribs on, and installed the trailing edge and the aileron facing on the wing. Went to build the ailerons today, and it turns out that I got the angle all wrong on the trailing edge. See pic number one. Obviously if I follow that angle I'm gonna have very skinny ailerons. So... what to do. First thought is to put this thing in storage and wait for Rebel to list his for sale. Second thought was to fix it and being as I have plenty of wood on hand, and plenty of time, off we went. I had a little dilemma as to how to build the aileron. They're top hinged, so the leading edge has to be either installed at an angle or sanded rather drastically to get some down deflection. The plus is that you don't need very much down at all with this airplane, so I think it'll be ok. So I went ahead and got an outline of the leading edge from the wing. Luckily the bottom of the aileron is for all practical purposes flat. So I went ahead and cut a sheet to the shape of the bottom of the aileron. I cut the leading edge mostly to shape and glued it to the sheeting, then glued a trailing edge also. Then I cut ribs to fit between the two, matching them (mostly) to the line of the leading edge. Once everything was well adhered, it was off to the belt sander to make much sawdust. When everything cleared, I had an aileron that looked ok to me. But it still stuck out. The fix for that was more Balsa! Added to the trailing edge of the wing, then off to the belt sander for more sanding and carving. Who puts filler on WWI airplanes? This guy..... just a few areas needing attention. It looks OK, and the angle isn't exactly the same, but I can take some off the TE of the aileron and get it close, and really, I'm gonna be the only one who notices. I'm holding off on sheeting the top of the aileron until I decide what kind of horn I want to use, and do I want to do some funky scale looking wires. I also need to sand the LE to get an angle for down throw, and I may put some filler material in the bottom inside of the aileron to restore some structure there. Depends on how thin the LE gets after sanding.

Rebel Flyr

My Feedback: (30)

I always put a strait edge & a square on every line on the plans before I start to build… I have run up on some pretty sloppy plans. I also like to fold over to check consistency, on the tail, formers etc. right side, left side. I seem to I find the lines off in a lot of different areas. Never think for a minute that everything is true. I have several different strait edges; the longest one is only 6 feet. When I need something longer than that I use a sting line, something light, wont sag when tight. I use what the ceiling guys use called Jet line it’s strong and light and orange in color, makes it easy to see.
Keep it up, looking good

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the encouragement. The line on the plans is straight, and I did check to make sure the left and right wing plans were the same. After finding the drawing for the stab is off...... I should have laid the wing over the plans when I put the trailing edge on, then I could have built up the individual ribs instead of having to add material to the trailing edge. Oh well. May wind up working that old ZDZ after all....

Rebel Flyer

a65l...

Looking good.

Do you plan on using plywood over the wing, or simulate it?

Also, where are you from at the Beach? I was a regular at the block and lived at the corner of 28th and Artic. Lived off pizza at Chos and drinks at Peabody's. I went to Kempsville High and moved away in Oct 91. Now I'm from Minnesota.

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

I beleive i'm just going to sheet with balsa, and then use solartex. I thought abotu sheeting with 1/64 ply and staining/painting etc but I think I"ll be lucky to get this thing together in time for WOD this year.

I live out in Kempsville, right near Stumpy Lake. The Navy brought me out here in '85 and I liked it so much I stayed after I retired. You do any r/c flying while you were here?

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

Sooo, some small progress made tonight.

I decided to make life easy and do hatches for the alieron servos. I'll drive the ailerons with a pushrod on the bottom, and off the top have a wire that runs into a tube, to simulate the pull pull setup. So I laid basswood strips between the ribs, this is waht the hatch will bolt to. The alieron servo will mount directly to the hatch, and the horn will poke thru a slot in the bottom. I did put a piece of balsa on the outside of each of the ribs for a little extra support, probablly overkill but that's waht I do. I got some more sheeting on, was going to do the leading edge top and bottom then I realized I couldn't without installing the rest of the pieces for the cabane mounts. So those got fabbed up and glued in. More sheeting tomorrow I suppose. I wish I had kept a better record of what wood I needed to build this thing....

johnboy151a

My Feedback: (68)

WELL!!!????

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

Yeah, er, um, a little stalled out on the D8 right now. Had some other things come up that were, well, easier and quicker, plus more important at the moment. Hopefully work will resume very shortly....

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

So. Some progress. I sold an engine to a buddy and used the funds to get most of teh rest of the stuff I need to finish teh D8. I ordered aluminum struts from Glen Torrance Models, those will be used for both the wing and the landing gear. I got switches, receivers, batteries, some hardware, etc etc, and I'm sure the list will grow as the project progresses. Back out to the garage today for more fun... I hope to have the wing struts made up today or tomorrow but that will depend on the weather. Not enough room in my garage to put the wing on...
So.... I have the GTM aluminum cowl. I thought about using teh wire to hold it on,but decided to drill and mount it with screws instead. The screws will be inline with the rivets, so hopefully they won't be all that noticeable. But I did simulate the wire, and don't have a pic of that. Bending all those brass pins just wore me out...
The next pic is the strut material as delivered from GTM. I called him on Tuesday, and ordered the material. He cut it on Wednesday, and it was in my hands on Thursday. Now that's quick. Helps, I'm sure, that he is just over the border in NC but still... I made the struts for the tail out of K&S tubing with brass ends JB welded in, we'll see how those hold up. I went ahead and cut the wires for the wing struts and glued them into the struts, but I think I rushed there and screwed up.
I made up a frame to hold the subwing in the correct position while I bent the struts. I made new endplates out of thicker plywood than were supplied with the kit. The struts are flattened and bolted directly to the plates. The upper ends will have music wire jb welded in, and those will be strapped to the fuse. Bending the struts was nerve racking, you only get one chance to get it right. Well, you can get away with a little bend back, but not very much at all. Lucky for me I have learned in teh last 40 something years to go slowly and check every time, and I managed to get it right. The struts were then clamped in teh proper position, and teh upper wires bent. When everything fit together nicely, the wires were jb welded into the struts with everything in position.

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

Last pic shows it sitting on its wheels for the first time... that's a little bit of a milestone as far as I am concerned. Then off came the subwing for some sheeting fun. I got the top sheeted with 1/32 ply so I could make the holes for the struts. I'm debating what to sheet the bottom with, if anything. I'm sure at some point I will need to get in there and retighten the bolts, or unbolt something for a reapir, so I'm debating leaving it open and just covering it with solartex. The strength is in the center tube and the end plates, so I don't think it would hurt anything, and I really don't think anyone is going to notice. I also added the 1/4-20 bolts for the bungee cord. Then added balsa blocks fore and aft to sort of fair it all in. Last step was to add brackets for the cross bracing wires. I didn't groove the plywood the wires for the landing gear sit in, so I added hardwood sticks fore and aft to keep them in position.

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

I also figured out control horns and wire routing. Well, mostly. I got ahead of myself and covered the tail feathers before I figured out wire routing... duhh. These thing happen. I also installed the control horns where the plans called for it, which turned out to be another mistake. Live and learn, eh? Control horns are 6-32 threaded rod, with a plain nut on both sides to lock them in. Once I get the length correct for throw I will sleeve them with C/F tube. Elevators and rudder will be pull pull. The pics don't show it, but having teh control horns so far inboard on the elevators means that the wires can't have a straight run to the servos. Even if I go across the fuse, it dosen't work out. The stab is going to be bolted on, and the rudder will use regular hinges with a piece of piano wire for a pivot, that way it can be removed. At some pint I would like to make a new stab, something a little more scale, but for now this one is strong enough. I hope... I had to cut through one of the 1/4" balsa spars to get the cable to route correctly. There are, I think, 4 cross spars, and the trailing edge is a 1/2 inch balsa stick, so I'm not really worried about it. And it's not like this thing is gonna get 3d'd.....