757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Wes...

Are you sure that you used the proper method to check your timing? I checked both my DLE 20's and found them to be right at 28 to 30 degrees BTDC out of the box. Make sure you take your reading as the magnet leaves the sensor. Both my engine sensors are well within the adjustment range.

RiverLarry

Go to YOUTUB and punch in TDS TOPDEADCENTER2
and it will show you a Vidio how to do it !!!

wesjon

My Feedback: (1)

I had to reset mine as my first hall sensor packed up so I had to replace it. I set it to the recommended setting in the manual, which is 38 - 40' BTDC. Is this not correct?

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Wes..

Now I see the problem. I remember reading somewhere in here about that setting that was in the manual.... (I've got to read that one of these days!)

Obviously it's a misprint(?), it should be at 28-30 degrees, and should run fine at that setting, and that's more than likely where it was from the factory.

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Has anyone used an electric starter on the DLE 20?

If so, is it necessary to choke first? Won't that flood the engine?

Do you just open the choke and spin it up?

Thanks-

Larry

ShuttleAU

Hi
I generally need to use an electric starter for the first start of the day to draw fuel into the carb. Close choke , spin until it splutters then choke off and flick from then on. The rest of the day is flick start only.
If I fly two days in a row, on the second day I do not use the electric starter, flick start only.

BC

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

I use an electric starter, cause it's easier and I'm lazy. Yes, choke first, WOT. It sputters, then open choke, trottle down, quick starter hit - starts up.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

3 thoughts for those having troubles getting the engine to prime on that fist start?

Are you running it dry and/or draining the fuel from the tank when done flying for the day? Neither have proven necessary.

Have you considered soldering the hole in the choke plate closed for better fuel draw? It's just not necessary for our application.

Are you sure your choke plates are closing completely? Problems with choke linkages and loose screws holding the plate in place have both been issues.

-Al

Ernie Misner

The DLE and rcexel ignitions need to be set for different static timing to actually give you the same timing when running at speed. The good folk at Valley View say that when switching to the rcexel ignition and using the stock sensor, that you have to retard the sensor as far as it willl go in the slots. There is different software in the two ignition units that act differently when up to speed aparently. A friend used a timing wheel and said he had to enlongate the slots in the sensor slightly to retard it enough for the rcexel sensor. Like I mentioned before call Tom at Valley View RC since they convert a lot of DLE 20cc's to rcexel ignition.

ShuttleAU

Hi

I empty the tank in an attempt to minimise fumes from the vent tube. I do not run the engine dry.

I did consider soldering the hole in the plate but I am probably too lazy, it is easier to borrow a starter for a few seconds for the initial prime. I might one day when I take the engine out next.

The choke does close completely , I have checked that.

BC.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Well . . . NO! for the concepts of the ignition systems are violated by this post! There is nothing new here as all this has been explained by Jody at least a dozen times in this thread.

Everything said by Ernie is correct in a way but is written out of context and contradicts or clouds many important things said earlier in this thread. I see it as potentially causing confusion?

The DLE 20 (#4) ignition is a RCEXL ignition but there is no advance curve. Around 22-2300 rpm and below the timing instantly retards all at once. This is just to help you start the engine without snapping your fingers. So in other words, basically the ignition has no advance curve at all. There is just a retard for starting.

The total timing on a DLE 20, at the factory, is set somewhere around 34 degrees BTDC or a liitle less (This figure is some Chinese thing?). The assembler kid just mounts the sensor centered on the casting seam - the timing is not actually checked. The Tower manual for the DLE 20 says the timing is 38-40 degrees and they are crazy for no engine will run at that setting. Whoever wrote that was reading off the back side of the sensor. Things like this just causes trouble.

There is no difference between a DLE sensor itself than that of the RCEXL. There are some different brackets (Long, short, or wide) for the RCEXL sensors available and you may encounter one of these? Why not just continue to use the DLE sensor?

A RCEXL ignition box will work perfectly well on a DLE 20 just to plug it in and use it without changing the timing sensor. The total timing will be the same as with the DLE ignition module or you can retard it if you want to?

The standard timing setting for battery powered CD ignitions for years was 28 degrees BTDC and this is what the people at Valley View were talking about.

If I were to start changing the ignition on my DLE 20, I would put a generic RCEXL ignition module on it and set the total timing at 28 degrees or all the way retarded on the bracket even if it is at 30 degrees.

But for me, my factory original DLE 20 runs fine the way it is even though DLE didn't do it the way all the ignition people in the Western Hemisphere would do it.

But if I ever have any trouble with the ignition, generic RCEXL parts will go on it.

Like Ernie said . . . . Call Tom at Valley View if you still feel compelled to change your ignition.

sandyjain

I 2nd the above post...been using the std. RcExl CDi on a DLE20 for many months without any problems...still get 8700 on a APC 17x6 and idle at 1600-1700. I prefer the highest idle at which my model does not move on the ground-not the ridiculously low that you get with the #4.

RiverLarry

W8YE and Sandyjain + 1 on boath your Post !!!

IFANTBROKEDONTFIXIT!!!! MY .02 R/L

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

RiverLarry...

Mine wern't broke, but I didn't like it... so I changed it. Now it's less broke?

Folks need to realize that I can put any sticker I want on these ignitions. Heck, I can put Ford badges on a Chevy if I want. It's still a Chevy.

The $24 ignition I got from HK has a "Pegasus" sticker on it. The same (as near as I can tell) ignition with a RCEXEL sticker on it on avg is around $55. Pretty expensive sticker?

Makes one wonder what the wholesale price of these units is from the factory. Probably $10 to $15 or so.

bgw45

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, so I'm not the only gambler. Yes, I bought 3 of these units and used two of them. I did sell one to a club member. All of these have been put in service and perform without incident. So, yes, I did make the purchase and yes they are working great.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

I also got two of the Pegasys EI's from Hobby King. Haven't installed them yet, but glad to hear they're working out.

bgw45 - so on your DLE 20 you now have a smoother transition from low to mid-range, and is your low idle easier to find and more stable? (nothing like leading the witness...)

Ernie Misner

Thanks for your wisdom w8ye Jim!

bgw45

My Feedback: (1)

Not being a tweaker ( that is constantly compelled to perfect ) I'm willing to settle for a higher idle than guys that fly from pavement. I fly from grass so I don't mind an idle a little high. I just set them up so they won't die. I really had no issues with the "jump" at 2300/2400 like some have experienced and I'm not sure it is because I have my idle a little higher/lower. Just what make some report the issue is interesting to me. Anyway, I must set mine up where it has never been an issue to me.

I just took the 20 off an airframe and gave it to a friend. My eyes are requiring "larger" airframes so I'm going with the program. I can't test it any longer so I can't tell you exactly how I had it set, sorry.

johnsh1234

I have a DLE20 running well with the Hobby King Pegasus ign unit, I'm not advocating anything, just saying it runs really well.

johnsh1234

To add to my previous post, there is no step with the Pegasus unit.
I can't make any comment on its reliability as I've only had a few runs/flights on it, but so far very pleased.
Hope this helps.

rrengineer

My Feedback: (3)

You guys are making me glad I bought one of the Pegasus units. The price is very reasonable which is another plus.
Mike MacLean

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I can't find them on their website.....any links?

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10996

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

that's back ordered

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Thank you!