WacoNut

YES!!!!!

They fly great.
Anthony

Stan7476

My Feedback: (8)

David,  I know the feeling, I just finished my Sopwith Sea Scout and have not flown it yet.  One reason is magneto I/F.  I purchased some chokes, but I am not sure how to apply them (Where?)  Any of you old time magneto engine flyers have any tips for getting rid of the interference?  I would appreciate the help.

Cub Flyer Fresno

Stan,

From an industrial standpoint, we would put the chokes close to the device making the noise. We haven't used them in a long time because of the improvement in technology, but to me, that would make the most sence.

-David

wallace.tharp

Sun, hello from clear across town! I live in Buckeye and belong to ARCS and Aux 6 Fliers. I have a set of those tires. I used them on my 1/4 scale Monocoupe, Icon NW kit. I flew full scale and R/C in Alaska from 77 to 1993 and the term, "Tundra Tires" is correct for big balloon, usually tractor tires used on Cubs, Artic turns, etc. Yes, you could really land on the Tundra with them. Guy I worked with at Fairbanks Tower decided he need to make a potty stop about 10 miles from the airport & did so, annnnnnnnd, couldn't get up the speed to take off. The big lift helo that sling carried him back to FAI made that a very expensive whizz! True story. wallace.tharp

Cub Flyer Fresno

Wow Wallace, now that's a story!

Team_Monkey

Hello gents,
Boy did I make a mess last night. I sanded the inside then glued the two cowl halves together. I thought I would saturate the cloth before putting it in the cowl. That's what I've done on other layups. So I cut three pieces that should have worked to cover the middle and sides with some overlap. What happened was that the fabric wouldn't lay flat in the cowl. It kept folding up or sticking to my gloves. [:@] It was a mess so I pulled it all out before it set up and I'll try again. I guess I'll need to saturate the cloth AND spread some resin inside the cowl next time.

I'm sure the Fiberglass Specialties cowl is lighter and of course better built, so that's my fall back. For now though I'm trying to challenge myself by just using what came in the kit. The wing tube is a deviation, but for everything else I am sticking with the kit.
Oh, and don't try to clean resin off the cowl with acetone, it starts to dissolve the cowl.[:-] Use the book's idea of alcohol on a rag.

Cub Flyer Fresno

Hey guys, I've got a question for those of you that have used the colored Solartex.  This again has to do with the "see throughieness" of the fabric.  (Is that a word?)  How important is it to get rid of all the pencil marks, ink marks from the factory printed parts, etc.?  Also, since this is my first time covering with fabric, how much sanding and or filling really has to be done?  Is it imperative to have it absolutely smooth?

Looking forward to your responses!
David

WacoNut

If you are using Yellow Solartex you will see everything. It is too transparent for my taste.
I suggest getting the structure as smooth as possible before covering as nothing will hide mismatches etc: If you want a Yellow Cub I suggest covering with white and then paiting yellow. This will go a long ways in curing the transparency issue.
Later!!
Anthony

Cub Flyer Fresno

Hmmm... that was the plan.  I've still got time before I'll be able to cover, so in the mean time, looks like I've got a lot of sanding to do.  Woo-Hoo!!!  I love sanding!!! 

Thanks Anthony!

Take care,
David

WacoNut

I will be building (2) Sig Wonders over the Holidays then starting the dreaded Waco repair. How about I send you some extra sanding if you like it so much

Cub Flyer Fresno

Well Anthony, as much as I like it, I'm afraid I'll have my hands full with... uh... a lot of... uh... family....things... and uh....

Whoops!  Got another email to tend to!

Later!
David

Neddy191

My Feedback: (2)

My build is progressing slowly but surely. I've got the bones of both wings in place. I have the servo hatches installed in both wings. This weekend I sanded/rounded/finished the leading edges of both wings. Tonight I got the edge of the first wingtip done/rounded. I'll do the 2nd tomorrow or the next day. I just need to install the rest of the capstrips before the wings will be done (minus the ailerons).

Pic 1: both wings
Pic 2: First wing, tip before sanding/shaping the edge
Pic 3: closer view
Pic 4: Finished wing, everything rounded
Pic 5: closer view

acerc

Coming along nicely.

SunDevilPilot

Wings are looking great Neddy!

Cub Flyer Fresno

Gee Neddy, looks like mine did a year and a half ago! Looking good. And now you'll now what you have to look forward to in a year and a half. No? Maybe sooner?

Got to get my cabin detail done if I'm going to finish this bird up by the end of the year! But who am I kidding? Eh, I'll try.
The creative juices finally started flowing tonight (yep, took all day long!)and here is what I came up with. Using a little balsa and a couple dowels and my hand drill as a lathe, I finished up the trim handle. The plate should be a no brainer obviously.

I'll edit this post and post the photos as soon as I reboot the computer. Stupid thing's acting up again, just like a child! Bad computer, bad computer!

Okay, it's working again. Good computer, yes, good computer.... Now, where'd I put that stupid dime...?

heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

Looking good Neddy, you're moving rigt along. Been getting to work on mine a little. I built the wings as per the plans and it's working out good so far. Here is a couple pics taken with cell phone.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Question for CUB building experts!

I'm doing some updates on an old 1/4 CUB and will also be building a new one this winter. Over the years, I've flown several CUBs and it seems like the windshields are always a problem area for me. Specifically, how to trim the edges (sides and front mostly) in a manner that even comes close to looking scale like.... even for a stand way off scale airframe.

What are some of the methods you guys use? I can't even find CUB yellow trim tape any more. Anybody know a source of that. I've also considered thin strips of plastic or metal painted CUB yellow and glued / screwed in place similar to the full scale, etc.

All ideas will be appreciated!

jloane

Thin brass strips or flashing can be bent around the curve and drilled..then painted yellow. I've thought about trying that.

jloane

Same type of flasing one might use for the area just behind the Nacelle.

jloane

Also, printer's Lithoplate can be used. I believe it is thinner than houseflashing.....maybe.

Neddy191

My Feedback: (2)

Big screw up tonight. I was cutting the ailerons off of the wing and instead of cutting behind the rear spar I cut in front. Without even thinking I'd cut all the aileron ribs in the wrong place. I'm trying to decide on a fix or if I just want to rebuild the whole wing. I'm very upset with myself right now.

acerc

You are not the first to do this, guilty myself. I cut balsa pieces to fit against the side of the rib about an inch long. 1/2" in the ail and 1/2" in the wing, then recut. Later when you install the ail leading edge and the wing trailing edge, then the sheeting , it will be as good as new.

SunDevilPilot

I'd do what Ace advised, to laminate some sub ribs to the cut area, making it all one piece again, then recut the ailerons off. If you laminated both sides it would be just as strong, if not more, as it was before the cut.

SunDevilPilot

Cub Flyer Fresno

I'd do what SDP said to do, which was what Ace advised. Sorry! Just had to get in on this somehow! I didn't do that, I took soooooo long before cutting that I knew exactly what to do. But that doesn't mean I don't screw up still! There's plenty of those.

Good luck Neddy! I'm feeling for ya!

acerc

If I heard it once I heard it a thousand time's, "Measure twice cut once". Of course with my teacher if you did it backwards and messed up, pretty good chance there was a knot a growing on the back of the head. So I learned to measure three time's.