Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
12-14-2012, 05:45 PM
#52
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
ORIGINAL: MarvinLoomis
Warbird_1, I just looked at my original Byron Corsair instruction manual and it reads the same as what you have posted here. 4 1/2''.
Warbird_1, I just looked at my original Byron Corsair instruction manual and it reads the same as what you have posted here. 4 1/2''.
12-14-2012, 06:50 PM
#53
My Feedback: (34)
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
Warbird 1,
Some thoughts for you to consider. (From pics on post seven.)
- for oil cooler screen, go to local office supply store and buy a small black wire trash can. They are stainless steel and can be cut to size with a dremal cutting wheel. Lasts forever.
- your dummy engine looks very detailed but unfortunatly to small. Take a look on Ziroli website for a larger one. Rocker arms do not really show as they are under the lip of the cowl.
- have you considered filling in the fuselage gull wing chord to strengthen that rib area?
I'd cut a piece of 1/8 ply to fit from the mainspar to the trailing edge. This would "tie" together the top, bottom wing skins and anchor the mainspar all together to distribute loads. But I don't know if that is where your flap servo goes or if you need access through the open rib area.
I'd also do same for the leading edge area but only an inch or so. Kinda like a big "D" shape as it appears you may need some access to the wing spar metal connector area some day to check it. I suggest this as a guy at our club had his corsair wing split at the fiberglass joint at the chord after a very hard landing. Split up to about 1/2 way thru the leading edge intakes/coolers. Trailing edge split too!
- good choice of engines with direct drive G-62 and not the older Byron prop drive, which is lesson learned from the same corsair in our club.
Your build is really lookin great and moving fast.
Good luck and check six for Check6 trying to get his hands on your big Byron.
R, Mike
Some thoughts for you to consider. (From pics on post seven.)
- for oil cooler screen, go to local office supply store and buy a small black wire trash can. They are stainless steel and can be cut to size with a dremal cutting wheel. Lasts forever.
- your dummy engine looks very detailed but unfortunatly to small. Take a look on Ziroli website for a larger one. Rocker arms do not really show as they are under the lip of the cowl.
- have you considered filling in the fuselage gull wing chord to strengthen that rib area?
I'd cut a piece of 1/8 ply to fit from the mainspar to the trailing edge. This would "tie" together the top, bottom wing skins and anchor the mainspar all together to distribute loads. But I don't know if that is where your flap servo goes or if you need access through the open rib area.
I'd also do same for the leading edge area but only an inch or so. Kinda like a big "D" shape as it appears you may need some access to the wing spar metal connector area some day to check it. I suggest this as a guy at our club had his corsair wing split at the fiberglass joint at the chord after a very hard landing. Split up to about 1/2 way thru the leading edge intakes/coolers. Trailing edge split too!
- good choice of engines with direct drive G-62 and not the older Byron prop drive, which is lesson learned from the same corsair in our club.
Your build is really lookin great and moving fast.
Good luck and check six for Check6 trying to get his hands on your big Byron.
R, Mike
12-14-2012, 07:07 PM
#54
My Feedback: (34)
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
Some pics of how a built up Royal 104" Corsair for reference. A work in progress. Slow progress.
I also note mine has two little alum stubs that anchors the wing tip panels to the main wing spar. Just another approach that the kit designers chose.
On my Byron f-15, I learned to file the sub- spar in the wing panel to accept the set screw. this is also slightly angled so even if it vibrates loose, it will not allow the wing penal to fly off. See bottom spar the slight notch. For this airplane, the set screw came in from the bottom. Last pic is a close up, upside down so you see which way to angle it.
I also note mine has two little alum stubs that anchors the wing tip panels to the main wing spar. Just another approach that the kit designers chose.
On my Byron f-15, I learned to file the sub- spar in the wing panel to accept the set screw. this is also slightly angled so even if it vibrates loose, it will not allow the wing penal to fly off. See bottom spar the slight notch. For this airplane, the set screw came in from the bottom. Last pic is a close up, upside down so you see which way to angle it.
12-15-2012, 05:31 AM
#55
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
ORIGINAL: FireBee
Warbird 1,
Some thoughts for you to consider. (From pics on post seven.)
- for oil cooler screen, go to local office supply store and buy a small black wire trash can. They are stainless steel and can be cut to size with a dremal cutting wheel. Lasts forever.
- your dummy engine looks very detailed but unfortunatly to small. Take a look on Ziroli website for a larger one. Rocker arms do not really show as they are under the lip of the cowl.
- have you considered filling in the fuselage gull wing chord to strengthen that rib area?
I'd cut a piece of 1/8 ply to fit from the mainspar to the trailing edge. This would ''tie'' together the top, bottom wing skins and anchor the mainspar all together to distribute loads. But I don't know if that is where your flap servo goes or if you need access through the open rib area.
I'd also do same for the leading edge area but only an inch or so. Kinda like a big ''D'' shape as it appears you may need some access to the wing spar metal connector area some day to check it. I suggest this as a guy at our club had his corsair wing split at the fiberglass joint at the chord after a very hard landing. Split up to about 1/2 way thru the leading edge intakes/coolers. Trailing edge split too!
- good choice of engines with direct drive G-62 and not the older Byron prop drive, which is lesson learned from the same corsair in our club.
Your build is really lookin great and moving fast.
Good luck and check six for Check6 trying to get his hands on your big Byron.
R, Mike
Warbird 1,
Some thoughts for you to consider. (From pics on post seven.)
- for oil cooler screen, go to local office supply store and buy a small black wire trash can. They are stainless steel and can be cut to size with a dremal cutting wheel. Lasts forever.
- your dummy engine looks very detailed but unfortunatly to small. Take a look on Ziroli website for a larger one. Rocker arms do not really show as they are under the lip of the cowl.
- have you considered filling in the fuselage gull wing chord to strengthen that rib area?
I'd cut a piece of 1/8 ply to fit from the mainspar to the trailing edge. This would ''tie'' together the top, bottom wing skins and anchor the mainspar all together to distribute loads. But I don't know if that is where your flap servo goes or if you need access through the open rib area.
I'd also do same for the leading edge area but only an inch or so. Kinda like a big ''D'' shape as it appears you may need some access to the wing spar metal connector area some day to check it. I suggest this as a guy at our club had his corsair wing split at the fiberglass joint at the chord after a very hard landing. Split up to about 1/2 way thru the leading edge intakes/coolers. Trailing edge split too!
- good choice of engines with direct drive G-62 and not the older Byron prop drive, which is lesson learned from the same corsair in our club.
Your build is really lookin great and moving fast.
Good luck and check six for Check6 trying to get his hands on your big Byron.
R, Mike
What corsair was your club member flying when this all happened ?? thanks for the cool idea on cooler screen. i have to go to staples today so i'll check out all the baskets they have. As far as check6 goes LOL he's a little plane stalker rofl !! you know i love ya freddie ! lol I hope to finally get the spars in today so i can move forward. WB_1
This pic is of my first corsair with manfred von richthofen's great nephew.
12-15-2012, 05:43 AM
#56
My Feedback: (427)
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
Hey Ron,
We go waaaaaaaaay back. I like to think of myself as someone who appreciates superb craftsmanship. That's why I'm first in line for this Corsair. LOL Ron, what is the length of the strut from the axel to the pivot point of your retracts?
Thanks and I'll be in touch.
Fred Check6
We go waaaaaaaaay back. I like to think of myself as someone who appreciates superb craftsmanship. That's why I'm first in line for this Corsair. LOL Ron, what is the length of the strut from the axel to the pivot point of your retracts?
Thanks and I'll be in touch.
Fred Check6
12-15-2012, 08:20 AM
#57
My Feedback: (34)
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
His corsair was byron but with the prop reduction drive. It flew but lacked the power for large loops or fst passes.
Both he and ateo other top flight F-4us are all flying G62, mezlic 22 *10. Carb fiber prop or 3 blade at 20* 10.
Now they fly eith authority!
His did not have any ply rib on the fuse/ gull wing so thats why i mentioned it
Do yo have a paint scheme picked out yet?
See full scale VF-17 here in va beach. Airshow is May each year.
Http://www.militaryaviationmuseum.org
Both he and ateo other top flight F-4us are all flying G62, mezlic 22 *10. Carb fiber prop or 3 blade at 20* 10.
Now they fly eith authority!
His did not have any ply rib on the fuse/ gull wing so thats why i mentioned it
Do yo have a paint scheme picked out yet?
See full scale VF-17 here in va beach. Airshow is May each year.
Http://www.militaryaviationmuseum.org
12-15-2012, 08:32 AM
#59
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RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
Byron corsair is one of the best kits i built and there quality was very good don't know about Iron bay i have built two of these and can tell you of some issues i have seen first of all the plug in wings use a single 10/32 screw in the fuse spar lock get rid of it and drill in two 10/32 screws in each of the locks for a total of four screw per wing what happens after a while the single bolt tears in the spar and the next thing you know is flapping wings the spar pivots on the single bolt this will stop that, this goes for all byron kits with this type of set up . next don't waste your time unless you planning on putting flaps in i have see so many of these planes tip stall and go in on landing and also makes it land like a ***** cat which will put less stress on the landing gear. the other issue is balanceing this plane there are Two holes to drill in the fuse and do this ! Balance with the Gear Up ! so many i have seen go in on the first flight becuase of this AND you want a 10 Degree Nose down end balance meaning with the gear up balance so the nose of the airplane has a 10 degree nose down attiude. One of the other issues is the counter weights i did not use them and both few just fine another friend of mine put his in and had a major problem they spun in the wing preventing the aileron from makeing its full travel.
Hope this helps you in your build
Good Luck
Hope this helps you in your build
Good Luck
12-15-2012, 04:14 PM
#60
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
ORIGINAL: Check6
Hey Ron,
We go waaaaaaaaay back. I like to think of myself as someone who appreciates superb craftsmanship. That's why I'm first in line for this Corsair. LOL Ron, what is the length of the strut from the axel to the pivot point of your retracts?
Thanks and I'll be in touch.
Fred Check6
Hey Ron,
We go waaaaaaaaay back. I like to think of myself as someone who appreciates superb craftsmanship. That's why I'm first in line for this Corsair. LOL Ron, what is the length of the strut from the axel to the pivot point of your retracts?
Thanks and I'll be in touch.
Fred Check6
12-15-2012, 04:17 PM
#61
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
ORIGINAL: eaglen2fb
Byron corsair is one of the best kits i built and there quality was very good don't know about Iron bay i have built two of these and can tell you of some issues i have seen first of all the plug in wings use a single 10/32 screw in the fuse spar lock get rid of it and drill in two 10/32 screws in each of the locks for a total of four screw per wing what happens after a while the single bolt tears in the spar and the next thing you know is flapping wings the spar pivots on the single bolt this will stop that, this goes for all byron kits with this type of set up . next don't waste your time unless you planning on putting flaps in i have see so many of these planes tip stall and go in on landing and also makes it land like a ***** cat which will put less stress on the landing gear. the other issue is balanceing this plane there are Two holes to drill in the fuse and do this ! Balance with the Gear Up ! so many i have seen go in on the first flight becuase of this AND you want a 10 Degree Nose down end balance meaning with the gear up balance so the nose of the airplane has a 10 degree nose down attiude. One of the other issues is the counter weights i did not use them and both few just fine another friend of mine put his in and had a major problem they spun in the wing preventing the aileron from makeing its full travel.
Hope this helps you in your build
Good Luck
Byron corsair is one of the best kits i built and there quality was very good don't know about Iron bay i have built two of these and can tell you of some issues i have seen first of all the plug in wings use a single 10/32 screw in the fuse spar lock get rid of it and drill in two 10/32 screws in each of the locks for a total of four screw per wing what happens after a while the single bolt tears in the spar and the next thing you know is flapping wings the spar pivots on the single bolt this will stop that, this goes for all byron kits with this type of set up . next don't waste your time unless you planning on putting flaps in i have see so many of these planes tip stall and go in on landing and also makes it land like a ***** cat which will put less stress on the landing gear. the other issue is balanceing this plane there are Two holes to drill in the fuse and do this ! Balance with the Gear Up ! so many i have seen go in on the first flight becuase of this AND you want a 10 Degree Nose down end balance meaning with the gear up balance so the nose of the airplane has a 10 degree nose down attiude. One of the other issues is the counter weights i did not use them and both few just fine another friend of mine put his in and had a major problem they spun in the wing preventing the aileron from makeing its full travel.
Hope this helps you in your build
Good Luck
12-17-2012, 12:26 PM
#62
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
My corsair project has come to a halt. i have had several ongoing quality issues with iron bay . the latest is the foam wing cores . i was getting ready to move forward with the wing construction .... as a habit i like to check things out. well i mounted the wings to the plane and got everything centered when i found a 2 degree difference between the two panels. one wing was +1 degree positive incidence and the other was -1 degree incidence. there's no way to correct that . i took the wings off the fuse and taped the two roots together making sure they were aligned and checked them again with the same result . i was able to contact a company that does foam wings and i might have to have them cut me a new set or i'm thinking about just unloading it and the problems. I'm considering some type of legal action . i have had missing parts , wrong parts , crappy parts and the list goes on. i'm just glad byron isn't here to see what his company he worked so hard to build has become . anyone want a corsair? lol
12-17-2012, 02:12 PM
#64
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RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
Actually, my Corsair had the Byron 3 bladed prop and Sachs 4.2 with Purr-Power muffler. Mike is correct, it wasn't a barn burner, but flew well enough..... Here is a pic on take-off:
12-17-2012, 02:32 PM
#65
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
ORIGINAL: All Day Dan
Warbird, don't give up now! I can design a new wing for you and have flyingfoam.com cut it. What does the airfoil look like? Dan.
Warbird, don't give up now! I can design a new wing for you and have flyingfoam.com cut it. What does the airfoil look like? Dan.
12-17-2012, 02:34 PM
#66
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
ORIGINAL: rschaffer
Actually, my Corsair had the Byron 3 bladed prop and Sachs 4.2 with Purr-Power muffler. Mike is correct, it wasn't a barn burner, but flew well enough..... Here is a pic on take-off:
Actually, my Corsair had the Byron 3 bladed prop and Sachs 4.2 with Purr-Power muffler. Mike is correct, it wasn't a barn burner, but flew well enough..... Here is a pic on take-off:
12-17-2012, 04:01 PM
#68
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
ORIGINAL: Check6
Hey Ron,
Have you checked the incidence on the gull section at the wing root? Maybe they molded that wrong.
Later,
Fred
Hey Ron,
Have you checked the incidence on the gull section at the wing root? Maybe they molded that wrong.
Later,
Fred
12-17-2012, 05:04 PM
#70
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
ORIGINAL: Check6
Ron,
I just mentioned that to make you think I actually know what I'm talking about. LOL You can always sell the plane to me at a discount. Just a thought.
Later,
Fred
Ron,
I just mentioned that to make you think I actually know what I'm talking about. LOL You can always sell the plane to me at a discount. Just a thought.
Later,
Fred
i have decided to buy some new cores and continue the build. i can work on the tail group while i get the cores .
12-19-2012, 07:10 AM
#71
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
here's the start of the tail group. when you start you have to add a 1" x 1/32 balsa strip to the TE . this is a mount-spacer for the 1/32 ply hinge cover plate. you need it to make up the difference as your using 1/16 balsa sheeting . i like to protect the foam areas from over sanding by covering them with tape while sanding. i also used tape to keep the excess glue off the foam that i'm not gluing anything to. makes for a cleaner job.
12-19-2012, 07:19 AM
#72
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
As you can see i'm gluing the hinge covers and using tape again to keep the extra glue off the areas not being glued at this point.. i also brushed the glue from the center of the wood out towards the edge so i didn't get a build up of glue where the sheeting later butts up to the plate . that scrape piece of 1/16 balsa is a sheeting shim to keep the core parts aligned while the glue dries. I'm gluing with z-poxy finishing resin because of two important reasons. the cure time is slow so i have time to get things where they need to be and second because i'm not a huge fan of contact cements . i have had them come loose and epoxy will hold good. weight is not really a concern as you don't need or use a lot when sheeting. i like to slide the two parts against each other "just a little" to kinda spread the glue against each of the parts after i press them together. the line on the stabs indacate where the second spar location will be.
12-19-2012, 07:54 AM
#73
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
here we have the cores being weighted . One very important thing to anyone building one of these birds... i'm adding a small extra stab spar. The method of attaching the stabs to the fuse is not good enough . there has been some stabs blowing off . the problem as i see it is " and i see this omitted from the manual" they say to use epoxy to glue the stabs to the fuse. well epoxy for the most part doesn't bond with polyester resin very good at all .some say that the west system works ok but that's a lot of money for just gluing stabs to a plane. i'm going with aeropoxy or hysol. As far as the spars goes.. regular epoxy is fine. is just the area where the stabs meet the fuse.
12-19-2012, 08:38 AM
#74
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
ORIGINAL: rschaffer
Actually, my Corsair had the Byron 3 bladed prop and Sachs 4.2 with Purr-Power muffler. Mike is correct, it wasn't a barn burner, but flew well enough..... Here is a pic on take-off:
Actually, my Corsair had the Byron 3 bladed prop and Sachs 4.2 with Purr-Power muffler. Mike is correct, it wasn't a barn burner, but flew well enough..... Here is a pic on take-off:
12-19-2012, 04:51 PM
#75
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
ok , got the extra spar slot cut and the stabs sheeted . i had some time to kill so i cut the rudder center section out. i should have the stabs wrapped up tomorrow . including the leading edge, TE ply etc. anytime i join two sheets together i use the hinge method like i did here with the two rudder sheets. you can really get a nice glue joint that way. i just use thick CA and wet the edges at the same time and you don't get a lot of glue wicking out . i then wipe off excess with a paper towel real quick.