captinjohn

I just done some trading and now own a Saito 1.50 engine. My plan is to mix my own fuel and use a Rcxcel ignition or simular and Klotz oil. I may use a 16-1 oil ratio to start with. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks Capt,n

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

Hi John,


Send that engine to me and I will take care of it for you.

Adrian

captinjohn

Adrian, thanks for the offer, but that is they type of thing I like too do. Just tryingto get as much data and photos first before I start the conversion.

Best Regards, Capt,n

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

16-1 oil ratio sounds a bit rich in oil. I believe at that level, you'll lose HP. I'd also recommend using regular gas pump gas (meaning oxygenated). The alcohol content will help cool the engine, and these Saito's do not like heat. Also, make REALLY sure you secure the Walbro (if that's your direction) really well. Any vibration on that cantilevered mass will cause it to vibrate loose and the resulting fresh air inrush will catastrophically lean the engine, ruining it, before you even figure out what's happening. I've seen this happen (not to me! I use RED loctite and a carb support bracket).

spaceworm

What gas to oil ratio do you recommend, if not 16:1? Thanks.

captinjohn

Thanks spaceworm, that is waht I an looking for...the oil ratio and carb mounting is of great importance. Keep all the good data coming...I will use good advice anytime. Best Regards Capt,n

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

I forgot to mention in my original reply to Spaceworm more info about oil ratio. So far, in my Saito conversions, I've been using 32:1 non-synthetic Stihl "High Performance" oil, or equivalent. There is no synthetic content in that one. Lately I've been experimenting with HP "Ultra" full synthetic at 50:1 ratio. No conclusions yet, especially since most of my experiments have been on non-Saito 4-strokes. Another option is to try Stihl HP "Super" at around 40:1, but monitor the engine temperature with a non contact probe. The head is about 310F right at the exhaust outlet. The idea is to run an oil and a ratio such that you don't get carbon buildup around the valves. Otherwise, too rich on oil, and the valves will start leaking, losing compression.

captinjohn

Keep the data coming on the 4 cycle glow to gas conversions. I bet w8ye has some good data. Thanks Capt,n

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

The rcgf 15cc carb has been tested on a relative (rc plane engine) platform except it's 2 stroke, and seems to be a good candidate for a small four stroke conversion. I'm a novice at this, and I'm sure one of you experts can chime in.

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

You absolutely can try it. The normal advise is that the WT456 is the carb of choice because it has a special helper spring inside the pump cover that was originally intended for 4 stroke pulse, taken from the intake manifold. But that carb from Walbro hasn't been available for about 3 years now. I've been using a standard 2 stroke carb on a Stihl 32cc 4 stroke 4-mix, and have gotten pretty good results. But the intake has some innovative porting going on that might be helpling it. I haven't messed with that engine for about 3 months now, so I'll have to refresh my memory if that porting is helping. Normally, the pulse, for a 4 stroke, would switch from the crankcase (2 stroke) to the intake manifold. But, if memory serves, the Stihl is still (ha ha) taken from the crank case. I'll look and let you know. The easiest thing to do is to just try it. But hook it up to the intake, NOT the crankcase, if you're converting a glo 4 stroke like Saito. The reason is the crankcase NEEDS to breath on a 4 stroke.

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

On the two stroke rcgf 15, that black top nipple/fitting is connected to the crankcase. I'm assuming this is for the pulse. Yes, it would be connected to the intake for the four stroke. It just looks conveniently located and properly sized. However, I have no idea what venturi it is, I would assume it would work for this size engine.

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

OK, I physically checked my Stihl 32cc 4-mix 4 stroke engine. indeed, the factory pulse barb is at the crankcase. But again, I want to stress this engine has some special porting going on that I need to research further that might make a direct analogy to your Saito/OS conversion invalid. My Saito conversions all went to the intake for pulse pickup. The problem (if it is a problem) is the WT456 from 4 stoke use had a spring that helped the pump diaphragm return. The reason, I believe, is the pulse profile from an intake source goes negative fine, but lacks the positive pulse leaving the diaphragm somewhere between. Hence, the spring. If I were you, I'd just try it.

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

Does your Stihl run gas and oil or does it have oil in the crankcase? If it runs a gas/oil mix then the crankcase is just like a 2c engine +/- pulses.

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

Hey, Terry, how are you doing? Can remember how many times I talked to you at CH. Anyway, this Stihl is what they call a 4-mix, which means it runs on a gas/oil mix. No sump. The induction system is pretty unique.

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

Same way is Shindawa T254 if Iam correct, It is a 4 stroke with oil/gas mix. It is called the Hybrid.It has reed valves and is"supercharged"
by the movment of the piston in to the crancase. When piston goes down the first 360, Intake is closed, reed valve open the preesure gets in the intake then it close the reed valve, next stroke around opens again, intake valve opens and so on so forth.
I have one of theose engines but seeams like I have no time to go around.
Regarding the 456 ...Jim, if I remember correctly if not shoot me...LOL you are right the spring behind the membrane helps to move that back.
Material is to soft and does not come back by it self. we talk about that long time ago an I try on different carbs from walbro to put a spring behind like WT 456-1 and it worked on all of them on 4 strokes engines. Now on the other hand the Zama C1Q-P8 is a direct replacement for the WT 456-1 and also this one was discontinued and not replaced by another one. This carb does not have a spring, material is stiffer and I got lucky and got quite on few of those from an old stock .
Lately I did a Saito Twin 270...with that carb,and runs real good close to 2 min / 1Oz(30ml) spins a Vess 20B 6500-6700 RPMS depending on what time a day , morning (dense air) 6700- mid day when hot 6500. But it runs real nice, if I get time to edit the video I will post it.
I try also a 7.14mm carb same thing, I went bigger venturi ....Got a more crisp throtlle resopnse close to 7000RPMS ....but the down fall will not hand start, will not transition right...once it gets over the midrange and makes it to WOT....it screams...
Did couple heli engines On glow CDI, curious to see what customer will have to say about that...

That about me lately,...real busy

Thanks
Adrian

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

Here are couple more conversions.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWhxMQ4PedQ[/youtube] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PiiSsjS2JI[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9t5UOq5Eso[/youtube] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHT06K6_QyY[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OX7n8XG0vJs[/youtube] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ayw0H2fHiyg[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qw0oTWr76mQ[/youtube] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmwyTlD0X8[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbEXFJjEcDg[/youtube] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qeoi88Kt_Rc[/youtube]

I will look next to a Saito Radial 450 with the single unit CDI...not 3.

Thanks
Adrian

elvir

hello Adrian, i just saw your post , can you make me a ring and pick up for my saito 125 , or do you make this standard now.
i am still waiting for my friend to do it for me but no luck . i did a few different projects so i was not in a hurry . i like the red set up . please let me know.



elvir croatia

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

Hi Elvir, I hope your engine works good,
I had the rings for the FA125 made .
Thanks
Adrian

Elvir PM Sent.

Please try to PM or Email if you have any Questions.

elvir

can you ship it to croatia

elvir

just received my ch ignition pick up for my saito 125GK conversion looks great and works perfect.

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

Hey, Adrian. I notice in your videos you have a different type of plug shroud for those 1/4-32 mini plugs. it looks like it's made like the larger ones, with two halves that clamp together with the typical bend tabs. Is that what you have done? You selling those? If so, that would be so much easier than soldering together that stainless steel tyically available.

Rick

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

Hi Rick, they are the same way but they are welded together so you will not have to mess around with the soldering anymore.
I have those in 90 and 120 degree.
Call me I also want to ask you something.
Thanks
Adrian

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Adrian, I will give you a call assuming I can find your number on your website.

Meanwhile, a follow-up question on those 1/4-32 ignition shrouds. I assume if they are already welded, they already must have the wire installed. So what is the method for connecting them to the existing wire on an ignition module? I don't need to tell you the wire exiting an ignition module cannot be replaced. It is potted in place.

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

jymster

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Adrian,

I just came across your post about the Enya VT-240. I too want to convert my VT-240 to gas, but not sure how/where to start. This will be my first conversion, so any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Have you started your conversion yet? I would love to know more about what you are planning on doing.

Regards,

James.