edwarda10pilot

My Feedback: (3)

Trev:

I don't know that the plane will hold together at 150MPH []. I don't know of one that probably went faster than maybe 130 .

The canopy for this plane has no frame as some might be used to (I.E. there is no fiberglass piece that attaches to the fuse and to which the canopy is glued). The canopy part number is:5930306. The cockpit assembly includes the "tub" as well as the instrument panel and the seat back. The "tub" slides over the top of the fuse and the canopy is typically glued to it. If you want to order the cockpit assembly the number
is:6030073. Important to note that the cockpit assembly DOES NOT include the canopy.

I have attached the manual and parts list in PDF format.

Ed

Vettster

Thanks very much Ed.. Your a big help

Well as soon as I realized that a p-80 turbine is what this puppy needs.. That opens up a whole new world of options as far at making it stronger goes. Now weight will not be a concern. I can add extra formers and CF to no end to ensure she will hold together.

edwarda10pilot

My Feedback: (3)

Trev:

Good for you. You can never have too much power Best of luck.

Ed

Vettster

Found someone on RCG that has 10 canopies!! He sold some but I think he has some still. $25 each for perfect ones and $10 each for ones that had minor dust defects from the mold. I sent him a PM. just waiting for a reply

Vettster

I was lucky to get the last canopy. Its on the way

Started the build today. Bit of a delay as someone at work decided to smash my finger with a sledge hammer OUCH!![:@]

Looked at the instructions and hardware supplied...I promptly thew them both in the garbage.

Since all the tail control servos will be going in the tail.. I decided to cut a hatch to simplify things.

Here's how I cut hatches and gear doors so there is a perfect edge every time and a gap no bigger than 1mm.

I break or grind off the tip of an old exacto knife and turn it over to scribe with. I use the old Dymo Tape we used to use to lable things(not sure if they still make it) Its hard plastic with a sticky back and provides a very solid guide for the exacto to follow.

At First just add light pressure to be sure your scribbing a straight line, then add more pressure as a cut begins to develop. Keep going till your almost all the way threw and then use a razor saw to finish and to make the final cuts into the corners. Take your time and you will end up with a perfect cut everytime whist removing a minimum amount of material.

One the hatch was off I could see the brass control shaft that appears to be added by Byron. I hope they are as I dont really want to trust the previous owners work. From here I will be greatly adding more reinforcement to the shafts and making servo boxs to fit the elevator sevos and the rudder servo. I will also be adding at least 2 if not 3 formers in the rear.

RAPPTOR

My Feedback: (41)

BUY NEW WING COORS ..$51.00 SHIPPED.REAR STAB PIVOT TO WEAK.ALUM. ROD TO SMALL FOR SPEED. RUDDER IS WEAKEST AREA. SERVO IN RUDDER .

Vettster

Are the newer wing cores from www.ironbaymodelcompany.com ?? If not can you provide a link Please

Rear Pivot will not be used. I will be using a servo for each flying tail. I will not be using ANY of the hardware provided. Nor will I be installing the elevator shafts into the full flying tail as is in the instructions. Same goes with the ailerons.

The rudder servo will be going directly under the rudder.

Vettster

For the rudder..Im thinking something along the lines of this....

edwarda10pilot

My Feedback: (3)

The old injection molded wings are not available from Iron Bay. According to John @ Iron Bay they are retooling to cut the wings out of the conventional styrofoam but this will not happen for some time. Eureka Aircraft (http://www.eurekaaircraft.com/foamwings/wing-f.htm) has foam wings, tails and fins for the Byron F-16 (first three items on the link provided). Per the website, all foam wings are 35% off the advertised price. I bought the foam wings for my Byron Mig 15 and they are nicely done.

Ed

Vettster

Once again I am indebted to you Ed

I quickly seeing that all I bought was a fuse![]

any who.... I really dont want anything to snap off the plane in flight.. So I will be taking advantage of that great deal. Order placed lol

I didn't receive any of the former's with the kit either[&o] So Im cutting all of them myself. Not a big problem.. I did the same with the F-104. Im getting pretty fast at it now

skyhawknut

My Feedback: (3)

No offence - but why not go with a kit designed for turbine use instead of the extensive re-design needed to upgrade a kit which is both not up to the task by a long shot and not that scale (compared to the other offerings)

BTW - If you want to sell your foam parts to me - I'd like them.

Ram-bro

My Feedback: (101)

COSTS and a nice challenge is what I would say.....Not everyone can plunk down the cash. Besides there is nothing special or hard about strengthening the airframe. It really is basic modeling skilss involved. Or maybe not so basic anymore with all the ARFs and Near Arfs on the market. Believe it or not, the original turbine aircraft all came from D/F kits because they were proven flyers and light to start with. A Byron F16 might cost you $400 compared to what the newer kits are going for, thats not bad

funflyerf4

My Feedback: (6)

I have a Top Gun F-15 version#2 It has under 450.00 invested into it plus the Rabbit 100 I built it for the turbine it came out at 16.25 lbs dry and holds 80 oz of fuel and been flying it all summer 79 flights since may.I built new formers and installed retracts.What a great everyday flyer it is.It fits in the mini van one piece and it even has plug in wings.I would love to do a F-16.

RAPPTOR

My Feedback: (41)

(http://www.eurekaaircraft.com/foamwings/wing-f.htm READY TO SHEET 1/16

Vettster

I think Ram-bro hit the nail on the head.. Though I can afford to buy a nice Skymaster or new FEJ.... Why? lol I picked this kit up for $250. As far a making it a bit stronger.. Thats the challenge. The winter is very long and cold here in Toronto Canada. I like to be able to think things out and make things better than before. As Ed said earlier.."I dont think they ever did over 150" Whell there's my challenge The K-80 should take care of that..LOL

Next on the burner is the HK SU-37 that I will be installing a P-60 into since I wont be using it on the F-16 anymore Its an ARF, but will need heavy modifications to make it a Turbine plane.

Thanks for asking.

Trevor

Vettster

Thanks Rapptor. I got it last night. And THANKS for not typing it in capitals LOL

Vettster

I got the former's all cut out. Not working at a very fast pace,, but hey! it winter

I am working on the top hatch. Its important to keep everything lined up or it wont open/close properly, and I dont want any warping or misalinging of the former's at this point so I will install the former's first before adding the rails that will hold the edges firm and give longitudinal strength to the fuse.

I cut the horizontal lines and inserted some construction paper to line up the former's as close as possible and keep the glue out of the cut. The toothpicks also help with alignment of the former's. Try not to look at the main former to much.. That was installed by the previous owner. Dont know what Im going to do there yet. It is in very firmly..but looks like crap!

rick hamel

My Feedback: (1)

That 12 lbs was for a lighty loaded ducted fan-turbines usually turn out heavier-along with the extra fuel also depends on if your flying off a grass fieldmy ducted fan would just get off grass

Vettster

plugging away on the main hatch. Got all the rails in place and glued down. Just need to drill the pin holes and glue in the Latch, and then I can cut her free. A lot of work, but very necessary. I had some extra glue so I started on the rear hatch mount too.

My canopy arrived today.. Yippy!

Still waiting on the wings.

I would like very much to install the nose gear in the intake down low as the other manufacturers do. I dont like how its 4" higher than the bottom of the plane, calling for an extra long strut. RAPPTOR... you have any pictures of your install?


Cant seem to upload picture!! Keep getting ERROR 500??

Vettster

Well the hatch came out better than I could hope for. A perfect fit and when replaced does not recess lower than it should.

Once I removed the hatch..a bigger problem presented its self. The main former that the previous owner had installed was not installed correctly. One wing would be 1/4 rearward of the other. Removing the main former now would for sure throw off the hatch alignment, so it will stay where it is and be incorporated into the gear rail as I do not intend to use the aluminum gear mounts. I will install another former just behind the original and use 3/4" to 1" round CF tubing for the main spar. I havnt decided yet weather to make the wings removable yet.

The Black bristol board will be used to lay up the gear doors. I will be combining CF with Fiberglass so they will be strong.

Hope i can up load pictures now... NOPE![:@]

Vettster

Photos are uploading...Yippi

edwarda10pilot

My Feedback: (3)

Vettster:

Your progress is looking great. I was thinking (I know, this can be dangerous) what you might do regarding the bulkhead misalignment that moves one wing 1/4"further forward (or aft) of the other one. Perhaps you might put one spar on the front of the bulkhead/former and the other wing spar on the aft (or opposite side of the other wing) side of the bulkhead. I had a former misalignment with my Mig. Wings are plug in with blade spar and I ended up relocatingnum blade spar receptacles (which are bolted to the bulkhead) to the other side of the bulkhead (i.e. the receptacles were on the back of the former and the former was 1/4" too far aft so I relocated the receptacles from the back of the former to the front).

Ed

Vettster

Wow! great Idea Ed. I was staring at that for hours and couldnt come up with any alternative. That would probably work.

But just as Im typing this... it occurred to me that the new wings that are on the way, dont have any spars in them. Do you know if the slot for the spar has been cut in yet? If not I can just leave the mount where it is.

edwarda10pilot

My Feedback: (3)

Trev:

The wings from Eureka do not have the spar slots or ailerons cut out. They are simply the foam core cut to shape. YOu have to cut the spar slots in so you should be fine.

Ed

Vettster

Ive been messing around with the nose gear. I would like to use the pro-link trailing link strut for the nose as this plane will fly mainly off of sod. As it sits now... The bottom of the tire is just over 4" Is that enough?? I have no reference to go by. I need to know so that I can determine the height of the Mains.