djstar39

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks RCGuy! Was leaning heavily that way and you folks pushed me over the edge. Any suggestions for prop size for the Mustang? I do have the single hub prop adapter from ValleyView vs the 4 prop bolts. Bought that for the DLE-30 but I'm told it will work with the 35 as well.

Dave

MTK

It's particularly useful if you plane needs some more nose weight. For these small gassies it just makes no sense at all to have a multi bolt prop set-up. The OS33 and SAP180 have a big advantage theresimple prop installations and nothing separate to buy....

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

I have single-bolt adapters on ALL of my 30's as well as my 35, and my 55, too. Guess I won't be using my drill jig anymore. For your P-51, start with an 18-12. My KMP Bearcat has an APC 16-14 and is scary-fast. No hand-starting with the APC, though. I'm not quite that foolish! APC makes a great prop. So great in fact, you can also use it as a steak knife.

jwrich

My Feedback: (17)

l. build/fly WW ll 1/4 scale FOkker D-Villa. Now I have a Zenoah 38 on lt and it pulls it well. But it took a lot of trial and error to get the carb. to produce full power. I works great and no need to change it.
My question is I am. building the Spar Xlll and am facing the same problem with carb. being too close to the side of the fuselage. To avold this- I bought theDl-E rear exhaust. It should be s good fit. I plan to run a 20X8 prop as I am on the 38. Now the question? Will the 35 DL E produce the same power as the Zenoah 38 with the same prop. I am very happy with the power range on the D-Vll.
I am in the hospistal using a Kindel fire to send this message. Please the spelling.

Any advice will help. I do have anew Zenoah 38 for it if needed.

Thanks for your ideas.
Rich

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

The answer is no, it won't produce the same power. It will produce noticably MORE power. Or, more rpm with the same prop. The G38 may still be a better choice for the Spad due to it's hefty weight. I prefer radial powered WW2 planes and it's a rare one indeed that doesn't require nose weight. Most of the WW1 planes are even worse in this regard. With the full-size WW1 fighters, the engine made up a very large portion of the all-up weight. Our models are not that way at all, hence the problem. The DLE35 with a REALLY big ignition battery would be a good start.

juweeltje

hi rcguy59,

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

Hello again, Belgium. Glad to hear you got your Bearcat. You'll love it. I have close to 1 kg. of noseweight. Please avoid the ESM retracts. They are rubbish. No one around here has gotten them to hold up for more than 10 or 12 flights. Soft metal and dodgey electronics are a bad combination for retracts in a 7.5 kg. warbird. See if you can find a European dealer with Sierra or even Robart retracts. Mine is an older KMP version that has a pushrod for each elevator and pull-pull on the rudder. It also uses pull-pull for tailwheel retract steering. You can see the tray I welded-up that mounts above the engine. That is steel plate bolted to the inside of the tray. I went to a 4200mah lipo that feeds the radio and ignition through an MPI regulator and an RCEXL Opto-kill switch, which is why the ignition battery is no longer in the tray.

juweeltje

yes, hello again rcguy59!

yes, yes, finally i bought the plane!
esm did good work, it looks good, and you get a lot for what you pay....

i know, the previous retract versions off esm were really bad!
But i follow esm now for a while, and the have come out with the latest versions (V3), it seems the are much improved....
here is a topic on it : www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11060280/anchors_11338241/mpage_6/key_/anchor/tm.htm#11338241

anyway, i would prefer to go for electric retracts rather than pneumatic ones....
at hte moment i can't buy them jet inEurope, the will be availible at the end off January.....

lado seems to make good retracts, only they don't have such lagertruts (how long must they be?? 220?240mm??)
i also find this a good retract solution,the electon retracts made in Spain www.electron-retracts.com/products/retracts/er-40.html, but like a said, where to get the truts for it...

1.and wow, that is a lot off noise weight!!!!

2. i have also bought the jeti maxbec2, also a mpi regulator

3. if you only use one battery (reciever+ignition) don't you heb to install som kind of filter ????

cu
juweeltje

juweeltje

*****

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

Some people will insist that a filter is mandatory. I'm not one of them. The Opto-Kill is an isolater, but not a filter. In my case, that seems to be enough. I use Futaba Fasst 2.4ghz gear. It resists interference as well or better than any radio out there. I make sure to keep the RX as far from the ignition as possible but otherwise, I take no special precautions. If your ignition is poorly shielded, or otherwise defective, NO radio will be immune. You just have to use common sense in your setup and radio installation.

juweeltje

a other sollution for the retracts, chould be :

the Spanisch electon retractselectron-retracts.com/products/retracts/er-40.html and the struts from HK www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

Those retracts look pretty good, but I wouldn't use those HK struts to stir gravy with, let alone supporting a 7+kg warbird. Find some GOOD struts, not made from the God-only-knows "metal" HK seems to be in love with.

aa2dd

Has anyone used this engine on a Great Planes Giant Big Stick? If not, anyone have any thoughts as to how it would haul it around.'
I love lot of power and forever verticle performance. Help me guys!

aa2dd

Bruce

rmoose

How Much Does Your Stick way . need more trust than weight got to figure wind drag >:}}}}}<<<<<<<<<<<

with no more info. cain't answer much more?

aa2dd

thanks for reply. have not built the stick yet. However, the instruction manual states weight to fall between 13 and 15 pounds.

i have a dl 50, but little nervous about putting that much engine on the stick.



thanks

aa2dd

Bruce

tail heavy

Hi aa2dd.... I fly my GP giant big stick with a US Engines 35cc. It is an older magneto type engine that I found NIB last year. It flys the plane well. The DLE will have plenty of power as it is stronger than the US Engines 35. I went to this engine because with a DLE 30, I was going to have to add about 2 pounds of lead to the nose for the CG to come in.

You will enjoy the plane for sure.

Alan

rmoose

put the dle 55 on as long as ground clearence is enough. you don't have to fly it wide open ! we got a guy has a miss marta that he blew up custom made got a dle-55 on it plane flys great but ground clearance is a proublem on landing keeps breaking props..



good luck

aa2dd

When I made last trip to Graves, I bought a pair of 6" wheels for ground clearance. maybe just stick my DL 50 on, and go easy on throttle. heee heee yea ..... go easy shore I can do that!!!!!!

aa2dd

Bruce

rmoose

The guy with the miss martha is doing 3-d with it. lol but true whats the wing span and the over all structural building of the plane. i alwaysover power all my planes

MTK

Lessee if we can'tget this thread back to the topic....

I got my 35RA about two weeks ago and decided to try the Bowman ring in it right from the start. There was nothing wrong with the stock ring. This was simply a choice on my part. I hear so many great things about Frank Bowman's work, I just had to try it for myself. Might as well break in the engine on one of Frank's rings

While I had the thing apart I also resurfaced the reed block and reed housing to avoid any potential issues. Refacing is no big deal....I use a piece of 1/4" thick plate glass onto which I contacttack glue320 and 400 grit papers. I add oil to the paper and sandthe high spots off. The end result is a fully dulled look all around the perimeter of the surface I'm flattening (all shiny appearance gone)

The factory had taken a stab at surfacing the actual reed cage faces, the surfaces that reeds actually sit on. Well, they succeeded in sanding in a slight concavity which required quite a bit of resurfacing on my part to correct. The reeds work best if they lay perfectly flat on their cage facings.

After reassembly, I checked the potential seal by driping one drop of light machine oil on the interface between reed and cage to observe the eveness of the wicking of the oil. The oil quickly distributed itself evenly all around telling me I had a pretty good seal. It has been fully reassembled and is readyto run

I couldn't help but notice how much beefier the mounting lugs are than my 55 for example. Thickness is a full 15 mm. To me, there is quite a bit of weight that can be removed with no ill effects. I put a 55 on a diet a couple years ago shaving 10% of the engine weight off; engine never missed a beat. I suspect even great weight savings can be had on the 35RA

Michel

Hi

May I ask , where you got youre , " Bowman ring " from ?

Thanks

Michel

Michel

Hi Guys

I have a question .

That spring , that they give us , to put under the spark-plug cap . What exactly is this for again, . It,s main given purpose is , " WHAT " .

Why don,t we install metal to metal Parts ,................. because it will cause , " interference " . Isn,t this breaking one of the main , cardinal rules , in RC , if we install this ?

Michel

rmoose

the spring is forto help the ground on the plug the wire and shielding is the ground. the cap of the plug wire is the ground built in the spring is kind of a helper to make sure that the wire cap is grounded. if you wish solder a wire from the cap metal to a wire and bolt it to the engine somewere and do away with the spring ..rember the engine is not grounded to the plane mounted to wood 99% of the time . i have found that a good silicone plug wire is the best and run a sep. ground to the engine. had proublem about 2 mo. ago rained at the field and all the engines either wouldn't no start or run like ass missing. if you think about it the cap that comes withthe ign. mod is open to all the elements. inc.mosture ?and humity. the heat of the engineplus the humity. can cause the plug wire to sweat around the plugand cause miss fire or a no start cond.. it was funny it wasone of those summer days a big rain came in for about 15 mins. then thats when everybodys plane was running like ass. if they got it started!!!!!! . before the rain motors were running fine. a bad plug wire on youcar will deffintly break down when hud. outside and when dry may not , it took me awhile to figure it out on the way back from the fly in. but think about how many plug wire boots are made of metal and not silicone?

good luck! hoped this helped

MTK

I have never used the extra spring under the cap. The cap is simply installed directly. I also remove the external spring clip that is supposed to hold the cap securely. I substitute a piece of silicone rubber for the clip. Have never had a plug cap come off until I removed the cap.

Look in here, in RCU, for "Ringmaster" or "Frank Bowman" references. There are a bunch.

No it will not double your compression as some people claim. To do that it would have to reduce the compressed volume to half and rings just don't do that. It is supposed to be a more true or more round ring that makes more even contact with the cylinder and eventually will produce a better seal as it breaks in. That's good enough!

Ernie Misner

Here's Frank's email. He does not have a web page. If you email him he will send you some good information.

[email protected]