Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hi Guys,
I picked up a A26K from VQ models, and also the electric retracts for the airframe. This is not the first time this model has been on sale, but has not been on the market for a while. VQ did a great job in up dating the model and with the electric retracks and struts and this will make this a sweet build.

I plan on installing two Thunder Tiger (T.T.) .46's, Bisson pitt style side mount mufflers and use three bladed 10x7 props.

The instructions came with two front pages in my kit. One stated .25 ~ .32 two stroke glow and the other stated, .40 ~ .46. I'm not one to under power my scale models, and decided to go with the T.T. .46's. I have two already broken in and ready to go, both have a solid idle and great operation.

Enclosed will be the pictures of the finished model.

Here are the specks for the model:

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
About the VQ A-26 COUNTER INVADER

The VQ COUNTER INVADER model is an exciting replica of the original A-26K. Its impressive 69-inch wingspan results in a great flying model that is easy to see and fly, but because of its ONE-piece wing, the model breaks down to fit nicely into most vehicles.
Though while not intended to be flown or built by the novice modeler, experienced modelers will find the A-26 Invader is easy to assemble and versatile enough to handle many different power systems.

Features:
• - Plywood, balsa wood airframe covered with scaled-details
• - Factory-covered wings ,fuselage, with painted cowls and nacelles
• - 1-piece wing for easy transportation
• - Wide selection of power systems can be used
• - Exceptional twin-engine scale warbird flying qualities
• - Clear molded windshields
• - Working L.E.D.s available (est arrival late April/May)
• - Dedicated retract gear system available separately
• -optional electric retracts coming soon!

Available in CAMO
Specifications:
• Wing span: 69 Inches
• Fuselage length: 54.5 Inches
• Weight: 11.5 lbs (Varies according to equipment)
• Engines: For Glow: Two .40 two-stroke or two .52 four-stroke engines (Pitts-style mufflers can be used on two-stroke engines)

For Electric: • 129052 4120/05 Propeller, 118362 5S 5000mAh Lipo (1 for each motor), 712118 Ice 75amp ESC, 246335 11x7 3 Blade Prop 6 channel radio with 7 servos
Channels req: 4 - 6 channels for the the following functions: Ail/Elev/Throt/Rud/Flap/Gear Optional

As with all airplanes, the CG is important for proper flight performance.

For flight controls, good-quality ball-bearing servos are recommended. Due to the extra forces on the nosegear/rudder combination, a metal gear servo is recommend for that.

Here is the flight report from "Twinman."

Paul of Rcwarbirds is a slave driver…Sorry Paul, you are killing me! I want to sit around and modify my air force…some people call this maintenance and get a email from Paul here at Rcwarbirds.com that one of our advertisers, VQ Models wants someone to test fly their new K model A-26. The same one I did the build review on two years ago. He got me in touch with Dung Phan of VQ Models,,,,,(Just so happens is also located here in Houston) to go take a look at the new K model of their popular arf kit of the A-26.
Around two years ago, I did the build and review on the original for our review section at http://www.rcwarbirds.com/reviewsmainpage.htm. The flight characteristics were good for a warbird and even did the manual engine out trick with little problem. No, I do not own the new plane, but Dung of VQ asked me to test fly it...Over cast...10 to13 MPH wind, but straight down the runway.........Sure, not my plane.....you bet!!......Did I mention that I chickened out yesterday with the same wind in my face?
He built it with two ST 51's and three blade props. The K model seems to have been more of a gun ship, but am not totally up to date on all upgrades. VQ did put in the 8 machine guns in the nose and two more in a lower nacelle. The WOW factor of the additional wing tanks, I thought made it look MUCH better and meaner. Guess what...THOSE TANKS ARE GREAT!!! Many times I have added wing plates of dams on the end of the wing for more lift on sport planes.......GUESS WHAT...These things do the same thing!! The wing loading at least "Felt" MUCH lighter and made the plane far more agile in the air. One click down was all that was needed. (Dung of VQ does a nice job of building) and I noticed it really climbed. First flight was limited to only rolls and a good landing in the head wind. The big surprise is it FLOATS upon landing now. Had to go around first landing attempt as it floated right on past. I guess I should admit that I typically land fast for safety. The second flight involved horizontal figure eights, loops and inverted flight...Needs a lot of down on that one! Second flight I landed into the now blowing wind a bit down the runway and did not want to go off the concrete, so as it rolled I gave it up elevator to slow it down...Guess what..It lifted off!!!! Panic time…one does not firewall the idling engines in a near stall. Stopped breathing, did that pilot stuff, and it settled back down in one piece!!
Note, all this was done with the landing gear down...forgot the compressor!! Hey, give me a break...I was excited...not my plane,,free flight offer..high wind...Life is good!!,,,,,,,, Yes, Paul, I know get the story in and quit playing!!
My two cents, the first version was good, this is fun!!! The first version, I have been asked if it is a trainer, and I said no, but I may rethink this version. I think I will brace up the horizontal stabilizer if I keep up the aerobatics!!!........And that IS going to happen. One other good thing,,if you own a suburban, no need to disassemble for transportation.

The instruction start with the wing, but I will build up the Fuse first.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Day two,

The kit came double boxed and there was no damage to the box. After opening the box, I noticed that my decal sheet had been taped over and was unusable...bummer. So I sent an e-mail to Thomas @ VQ and the next day I was given instructions, w/e-mail directly to the company that built the kit in Viet Nam. I sent an e-mail to VQ in Viet Nam, and I was told that a new decal sheet was inbound to me. I received an envelope from South East Asia ten day's later and I had my replacement decal sheet (VQ sent two full decal sheets to me )...nice.

The model is laser cut and lightly built. There are lots of openings in the fuse, for access. There is a nice forward hatch over the nose gear for battery placement if your going electric, and it fits perfectly, with magnets to hold it down. You turn the model up side down, and you have a nice access to install your retracts. There is lots of room to work and the retracts will go in with no real problems.

The instructions are adequate-but the only weakness I've found in the kit so far. If your an experienced builder, it will be a no brainer, but for a new guy-you may have questions on the build.

There are instructions for electric retracts, mechanical and pneumatics...your choice. Since I'm going with the electrical retracks, I went ahead and assembled the three piece nose stearing servo support bracket (there is also room for a second servo, if your going with mechanical retracks-the nose gear retract servo). NOTE...make sure you assemble the servo support flush with the forward bulkhead. The kit calls out for a metal geared servo, due to all the stress the nose gear can receive, with your less then perfect landings. So I decieded to go with a Hitec HS-225MG. This servo is a little smaller then your standard size servo, has dual ball bearings and metal gears. Its always good to use a strong metal geared servo for nose gear steering and what is recomended in the instructions.

I installed my retractable nose gear, using allen head servo mounting screws. I've been using aluminum allen-head servo mounting screws, to secure my Robart and Lado retracts for years with excellent results. And if you manage to realy screw up a landing and rip out your retract gear-the heads of the screws pop off, saving the gear and mounting blocks for your retracts. With the heads popped off, all you need to do is use pliers to easily unscrew what is left of the screw and you can easily re-install your retracts again...with little or no damage. I'm using this system on models up to 10# with no problems and this has saved me a lot of rework over the years. I use thin CA glue on all the screw mounting holes to stiffen them up and it works great.

The kit has fixed open nose gear doors...but I will make my nose gear doors operational. The gear doors supplied have a nice fit and with a little modification, be operational. I will do this step last, after I build the full kit.

Make sure you screw in your retract nose gear centered, its easy to do, and doing so, will make your steering hook up simple to do.

After your nose gear is installed, with steering servo emplaced, its on to the nose piece.

The nose piece is made from fiberglass and you will need to drill eight (8) holes for your .50 cal guns. My nose piece was a little brittle, so go easy when your drilling your holes. The hole placements are already marked for you, but you will need to be careful in how you drill and epoxy in the .50 cal. guns. I under drilled the eight holes and used a rat tail file to enlarge the holes, just enough to make the gun barrels fit snug and hold in place, with out having to hold them while the epoxy drys. You will need to cut the barrels from the .50 cal. guns, and install only the barrels, not the whole gun. I cut mine 2" long, then epoxied them in place. Its a tedious job and will take some time, but well worth the effort and looks cool.

Next will be the rudder and stab.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

The Rudder Installation,

The kit supplies all the hardware you will need to put the model together, but I will use what I'm familure with, and use hardware from the kit that seems up to the job. I'm kind of particular at what hardware I use and over the years, found some hardware supplied in ARF kits, unsuitable for the job-with some kits from China having the hardware all junk. This is not my first VQ model I've built and VQ does supply quality hardware. But that doesn't mean I wont change the hardware on the build...and will do so with the tail feathers.

The control surfaces are pre hinged and so far, the work done in this area looks airworthy. I did take hold of the hinged control serfaces, and gave them a good pull to see if they were solid...and mine were well installed in this kit.

You will need to remove the aft top fuse window to install the rudder. It is installed with four phillips screws, and it comes off with out a problem. When I reinstalled the aft window, I used aluminum servo mounting allen head screws and tossed the phillips screws. I also installed a receiver battery voltage checker into the aft window bay, prior to reinstalling the window-for its easy to see and a good safty check. All my models now fly with votage checkers and a simple way to know if your receiver battery is up to the job. No more lost models for low receiver battery voltage for me.

After the aft window is removed, you will need to cut the slot for the rudder to fit in. Use a sharp #11 blade, for the covering material is elastic and tough...also a bit heavy, but what VQ uses on all its models.

The rudder fits quite snug into the slot, so becareful how you place the rudder into the slot. The forward part of the rudder fits flush to the fuse...so be careful how you handle it. I used canopy glue to install my rudder and has worked well for me over the years. It dries clear and cleans up with water. You can use epoxy if you like, or CA...but be careful and do clean up the excess before it dries. The reason why I like canopy glue for rudders, is that it holds hard-once dry, and it dries more slowyly and allows you to move or reset the rudder once installed (note: it may take a day or two for the canopy glue to dry-so make sure its dry before you fly). I've installed rudders this way on all my models with a snug fit rudder, from 20cc gas models to .90 powered WWII fighters with out a problem. But for sure...use the glue your most comfortable with.

I used an Airtronics 94102 servo on the rudder. If I was using a servo for nose wheel steering and to actuate the rudder (say with fixed landing gear), I would use a servo with at least 150"/# of pull and metal gears. Since I have a separate servo driving (w/metal gears) my nose wheel steering, a simple standard servo on the rudder is enough to do the job at hand.

I next decided to use DuBro ball links on the rudder, and took out the control horn and installed the ball, onto the control horn.

The kit has long plastic tubes installed into the fuse for the elevator and rudder control rods to slide through. The kit also supplies you control rods to use. I did use the control rods supplied and soldered the ball link screw holder onto the rod. After I screwed on the plastic ball link itself, to the rod. I then placed the rod into the rudder tube and witnessed where it came out into the fuse. I needed to cut the rod, for its way to long for the job needed, and then set up my rudder servo to see where I needed to place my servo. I like stress free control movement and after I found the natural place for the rudder servo to be, screwed in the rudder servo, using a DuBro "easy connector" for the servo arm. After the rudder servo is installed, I witnessed where the control rod hit the rudder, connected the ball link to the control horn, and screwed in the control horn to the rudder. Again I used aluminum servo mounting screws to hold the control horn onto the rudder and the screws go through the rudder and into the control horn keeper on the opposite side of the rudder. Two drops of thin CA will hold the screws inplaced and never come loose.

I then hooked up my servo driver and centered both the ruddder servo and the steering servo together, with a "Y" servo cord. After this I centered the nose wheel and rudder and screwed down both set screws to the servo's "easy connectors." Now every thing is centered and set with your steering and rudder.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

pattnut

That is absolutely the CHEESIEST cockpit detailing I have ever seen in a ARF !...

Old Dawg

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Stab Installation,

The stab went on next for me, and if you look at the pictures, you will see that the stab, slots into the aft part of the Rudder. I made sure both stab slots fit with out any issues and marked the stabs for center and instillation. (NOTE...Make sure the angles of the STABILIZER ARE EVEN...AND KEEP WATCH ON THIS UNTIL THE EPOXY DRIES) I then used 15 minute epoxy and glued them in place...making sure they both were equal. I trial fit the stab fairings to make sure the stabs were equal and let the epoxy dry. Next I took out the parts needed to hook up the elevator servo, servo push rod and control horns. There is a neat little bracket that comes with the kit that will connect both elevator push rod ends and the servo hook up rod. I've seen these before, but this is the first time I've used one. The little bracket has six holes for allen head locking hardware, that holds the push rod wires firm. There are three on the top and three on the bottom. This should hold the elevator control rods firm, with out any problems. I then installed the ball links onto the control horns and soldered the connector screws for the ball links onto the push rods. Next went on the control horns and I installed the control rods. The control rods are way to long and you will need to cut them to fit, as well as the third control rod that goes into the servo. See the pictures and this should show you what I did.

The elevator servo pushes for up elevator...and to be honest I would like to pull for up on all my models. But since this kit is built differently and has flown well the way it was set up, I'll go with the way this model is built.

I still need to glue on the stab fairings and I will do this next...but I've one modification to do before I'm done with the fuse.

The servo floor that holds both the elevator and rudder servo will flex when you cycle the servo's. The plywood used for servo attachment is to thin for my liking, and I will glue on doublers to reinforce the servo attachment area. I was surprised to see this, for my past VQ models had thicker light ply for servo attachment. It may work well with out any modification...but I will beef up this area tomorrow.

I'm trying to find a way to open the nose gear doors and hold them open with the nose gear is lowered for landing. Any one have any ideas they can share with me. Hinging the nose gear doors is a simple task, and I'll close the gear doors with a piece of fishing line, but how do you hold the doors open when the gear is down ?

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Quality looks like the VQ Zero I once had, never built it and got rid of it quickly...junky plastic parts, etc..

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Gizmo,
A good member of our club, named Lennie, has built and flown the VQ Zerro for years. No issues, kit supplied retracts and it flys up a storm. I flew my P-51B and he flew his Zerro a couple of weeks ago, together and it is one nice flying model. The fairings are made of plastic, and so is the covering...but the rest of the model is balsa.

It amazes me that folks bad mouth a model they never built or have ever flown...and a company that they have no clue about.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

After all these years I know junky ARFS and the Zero was just that. I wasn't about to waste my time on such. The plane I had came thru a swap for a bunch of stuff a guy had as he was quitting the Hobby. The "Fairings are made of plastic and so is the covering..but the rest of the model is balsa", your words. Well the coverings and fairings are junk in my opinion and prone to early failure in my opinion. Several parts were split, brittle thin plastic being the cause and the thing was really poorly done. BTW it's spelled Zero not Zerro.
Having owned one I feel it's fair to have an opinion and express that opinion with more than just passing judgement on a casual basis.

In my opinion It was not worth the time to build the funky little plane as I would have been ashamed to have someone see me with it. The A-26 reminds me of that Zero in it's covering and general looks. It well may be a wonderful flyer and I'm glade you like it.

Bobby, I may be wrong but it sounds like you have skin in the game somehow?

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Gizmo,
I have no skin, or financial interest in either VQ Models or VQ. I just like how their models fly. I've had four of them over the years and two now in my hanger. The models are not perfect, but lets get honest here...no ARF is perfect. You take what you get and fly it that way, or modify it to your liking. And if that isn't enough for you...just build what you want. If you noticed in the beginning of this build, I quoted from very experienced twin flying folks...I let the experience of others before me state how this model flys and looks.

I happen to have flown next to the A26K's in South East Asia, in the mid 60's and I've wanted to build a model of the A26K for years. I missed out on the first issue of this kit and the next model A26 available that was sold, was to big for me. So I had to wait until a reissue of the older, smaller A26 came out, and pre-ordered. I was tickled pink when I saw the kit advertised for sale again eariler this year.

I ordered the kit as soon as it was sold w/with electric retracts, from Hobby People. And my kit had a damaged decal sheet, so I contacted Hobby People for replacements. I sent them a picture of the damaged decal sheet and sent them e-mails. It turned out to be a back and forth thing and after a while I gave up with them. I e-mailed Thomas at VQ models to see if he would help me, because I knew he sold the kit too. And he did help me and through his help, I ended up receiving my decal sheet from the manufacturer in Viet Nam. My decal sheet was airmailed from Viet Nam, to my home, directly. That is why I mentioned Thomas's name...he is one of the good guys, Gizmo.

Enclosed is the picture of the envelope the decals came in and a picture of my Red Tailed VQ, P51B. It is the .40~.46 size model, with a K&B .61 Twister installed. I was advised not to put such a large engine into the model...but I did. I've flown the hell out of this model for two years now and it is very quick and manuverable. It will not high speed stall on you...believe me, I've tried. You can get as crazy as you want and it just keeps on flying. It takes finess to land it with grace, on hard surface runways and why I like it so much. It keeps you honest with your abilities.

I felt the implication and tone of your post was uncalled for.

I got so bum kicked over the past election...this model has kind of pulled me out of my slump. Its not a perfect rendition of an A26K...but its good enough for me.

Soft Landings Always,
Bob Paris

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Just call it as I see it, and from what I see it's not for me! I also have flown twins and do have a K&B twister w/pipe. I am not new to this........

The VQ A-26 just reminds me of that very poorly done Zero and as it was made by the same folks I have made my conclusions and they stand for me.
I am if my "implication and tone of my post is uncalled for" how am I to express myself here?

Obviously you are happy with the plane and thats what it's all about, it's not for me or my standards.

This is my last response on the subject as it could go on forever and nothing is gained.......

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Finished the Fuse,
I removed the elevator and rudder servo and installed four pieces of 3/32 aircraft grade ply strips to beef up the that servo tray. The fuse had good glue joints, but I went over all the wood joints I could reach with med. grade CA glue. I do this with all my ARF models, regardless who makes them. Even in the best of models...some times folks miss glue joints and in the worst of ARF's...some glue joints are missed all togeather. I then reinstalled the servo's and set them up for flight. I then went and installed the plastic elevator plastic fairings...and this is where I came into problems.

I also covered all the light ply I could reach with thin CA glue prior to reassembly...it soaks up into the light ply and gives it more strength. Its light, fuel proof and quick to do. Just make sure your in an open area and not in an inclosed room. CA fumes will burn your eyes and skin.


I found out how to use CA glue to attach the plastic pieces to the covering...and here is what worked for me.

First fit the pieces onto the elevator area where they go and see how they fit. Make sure your elevator is set to level flight or centered-even with the stab. The plastic fairings need to set up even with the elevators. I needed to trim the top part of the fairings a little to get a perfect fit and this took only a short time with sand paper, on a flat stick.

Next...apply a little CA kicker to the side of the fuse where the fairings will go. A LIGHT COAT ONLY.

Then apply a real light coat of SLOW CURE or MED Thick CA to the plastic fairings that touch the fuselage and horizontal stab. Then very carefully slide the fairing onto the stab away from the fuselage and when you like the placement...place the fairing onto the fuselage. There are parts of the fairings that will also attach to the hoizontal stab, as well as the fuselage. Be carefull here, do not over do the MED. CA glue...just a light coat on the fairings only at this time. If you put to much CA glue on the fairings, the excess glue will drip down and when you try to wipe it off...you will remove the color on the material they cover the model with. I learned this the hard way and one must be careful and do not rush the job. I ended up using olive paint to cover my mistakes and wish I had known how to do this first...before I learned how to do it properly.

Its almost impossible to hold onto the fairings while the MED. CA dries...hence, a light coat of CA KICKER on the fuselage sides. It will take the kicker a few seconds to set off the MED CA...and that will give you time to set the fairing in its proper place. Once the fairings are on and emplaced properly...you can take a tooth pick and gently add extra MED. CA to the fairings to make sure they are properly glued on. The fairings are a nice touch to the model...but you must be careful how you place them.

I still need to install my receiver on/off switch, receiver and battery, but I will do this after the wing is finished and I can find out what my C.G. is on this model. I'll place these to help out any C.G. issues I may have.

Next...onto the wing.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

The Wing,
The first thing I did is fuel proof both nacelles. I used Water Based Varathane, it will seal the wood, aft of the painted area on each nacelle. I also take thin CA and coated the fuel tank area for a full fuel proofing of this area. If you don't seal the fuel tank area and have a fuel leak, you will have the work cut out for you cleaning all the oil out of this area. This also stiffens up the light ply a bit, but Water Based Vareathan is not 100% fuel proof, like laquer based Varathan is.

The kit comes with foam wheels and even though these foam wheels are better them most I've seen in Asian ARF models, I perfer DuBro or Dave Brown solid rubber wheels. I've worn out foam wheels...but I've never worn out a pair of DuBro or Dave Brown rubber wheels. The kit supplies 3" main gear wheels, and one 2 1/2" wheel for the nose gear. I went with 2 3/4" main and 2 1/2" nose wheel. These two I had on hand and will use these.

Next I trial fit the electric retractable landing gear. I needed to do just a little fitting, to get the landing gear to sit down properly. I needed to make a small half round rout in one rail, to fit the retract unit onto both rails. But first you need to know where your going to secure your retract units, onto the rails.

Depending on the size wheel you use, will depend on where you will mount your main landing gear retract units, in each nacelle.

There are pre-cut plastic nacelle fairings that go over the outside of the top and bottom of the nacelle. Since the bottom fairing is pre-cut for you, you must take care on where you mount your retract unit. It took a bit of time, but I was able to find the sweet spot for both nacelles, with the wheels I installed. Once I mounted the retract units, w/wheel attached, neither the strut or the wheel hit the plastic pre-cut fairing during the retract motion. I used a #55 drill to pre-drill the holes for mounting my retract units. I then used aluminum servo allen head screws to mount my retract units (you may need to use a flat washer to properly screw down and hold the retract units-the retracts have tapered holes for wood screws).

I trial fit the plastic nacelle covings, both top and bottom and I was pleasently suprised at how well both fit. The fairings notch onto and over the fire walls...and both were a good fit. I'll install these fairings after I have the engines, servos and fuel tanks installed.

Next I removed the aileron servo covers, cut out the covering off the plate for the servo arm and fit my servo's. I used Airtronics 94322 BB standard servo's for the ailerons. The kit came with two mounting hard wood blocks, to mount your servo. I pull check them...and they both came off way to easily. Both sides were the same...but you will neet to set the servo mounting blocks anyway to the servo you use. Mount your servo, with control arm attached and center the arm into the cut hole in the cover-you may need to modify one of the mounting hard wood blocks to fit your servo electrical wires around. After this is done, I used Med. CA and glued the mounting blocks onto my servo covers. Next I mounted the servo arm with DuBro easy connector, onto the wing...again using aluminum allen head servo mounting screws.

Next will be the engines, throttle servo and fuel tanks.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobbhy of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Engine instillation,
The engine fire walls are marked for you, so all I did was to use a pen and remark the fire walls so that I can see the center marks better. Once this is done, you will need to mark and drill your engine mounts. The insturctions call out for a 4" distance from the fire wall to the prop back plate of your engine. The allen head screws given in the kit were of good quality and used these to mount the engnes. I did use my own fiber lock nuts on the screws, for the kit supplied nuts were not what I normally use. I like self locking nuts on my engines and use lock washers too. Next I mounted the engines, centering the engine mounts on the fire wall, and marked, where I will dirll the fire wall. Next I drill one hole, and screw down lightly-only this first one engine mount lug (better to have one miss drilled hole then four). I then center the engine onto the fire wall and if every thing lines up ok...I then drill the other three holes and finish mounting the engine mount-with the engine attached, to the fire wall. Thunder Tiger has a neat gizmo called a drill guide for this engine, to measure and drill your engine mounts...this is what I used and it made a quick job of mounting my engines.

The Throttle servo mounts into the nacelle with one piece of square balsa and a piece of light ply. I needed to sand and mod the light ply a bit to fit my servo, and you will need to do the same, depending on what servo you decide to use.

After I mount and ran the servo wires out of the wing...I bench check the servo and servo extension wires, installed into the wing. I use servo connector clips, to insure my servo extension wires never come loose. I did the same thing for my aileron and retract servo wire extensions.

Next I'll install the throttle push rod, fuel tank and fuel plumbing.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Throttle servo, fuel tank and fuel plumbing installation,
I used the supplied white plastic tube and wire, to make my throttle servo push rod. Make sure, before you drill your throttle push rod hole in the fire wall, that the push rod will clear your muffler and/or header you use. I didn't do this and ended up with my Bisson header hitting the throttle push rod and needed to redrill and do it properly. Its almost a straight run from the servo to the throttle and an easy push rod to install. I then set my servo to its electronic center with my servo cycler, and center the throttle horn on my engine carb. Now with every thing centered, I use my throttle cycler again and make sure I get full travel from my servo and the same with my engine carb. If there is to much travel, I will then use my Tx to set throttle travel limits for this engine instilation.

The fuel tanks in the kit are the largest fuel tanks I was able to find to fit into the nacelles. The fuel tank stopper was pre assembled for you and all you need to do is install the fuel line pick up and clunk into the tank and its built.

The pressure line from the Bisson side mounted Pitt style muffler was a tight fit into the nacelle. I needed to drill a hole in the fire wall to run the fuel tubing to the tank pressure fitting and I also drilled the fuel tank pressure fitting hole a bit larger, on the supplied fuel tanks. The pressure fitting hole was to small to my liking and wanted toi make sure I had a large enough hole, to get good muffler tank pressure.

I used black foam to snug fit the tank into the nacelle and ran the plumbing to the carb and fill line. I used a three line system for this installation.

Next will be the plastic nacelle covers and cowls.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

The Nacelle plastic covers,
Well...to be honest, it was a tedious bit or work to get the plastic covers on and installed. It also took some time to do this in a way, that the plastic covers would stay on, in flight. I wasn't happy by the way shown in the instructions and in short...its a pain in the tail feathers, but if your patient and keep at it, it will get done.

There are three plastic pieces that go to each nacelle. They are the top, bottom and aft cone. The instructions had you use little screws and tape, for holding everything on. I didn't like how the insturctions had you put the plastic pieces on and using tape for the aft cone piece, didn'd work for me at all. So I made wood plates and wood pieces for the screws to go into-on the bottom wood framed nacelle, and the aft cone too. I used 1/4" light ply for my wood plates and if you look at the pictures, you will see how I cut the pieces, and where they go. I used three pieces on the inboard bottom and two pieces of wood on the out board bottom of the nacelle. I used one piece in the aft part of the nacelle where the cone is fitted. I doubled up the light ply where the screws go into the frame and this worked quite well for me.

The top nacelle plastic goes over the bottom piece and the tail cone goes over both top and bottom pieces. I used rubber bands to hold the plastic peices together, while I did my trimming and fitting.

I took time and fit the upper and lower nacelle plastic and I used a #11 blade to trim where needed to get the best fit I could. The plastic pieces fit...but not a real good fit. Your going to have to do a bit of wittling, triming and fitting to get the plastic pieces to give you an acceptable fit. This was the most difficult part of the build so far...I just took my time and got it done.

Next I'll install the cut and install the two engine cowls.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Cowls and wings,
I cut my cowls to fit the T.T. Pro .46's, with Bisson Pitt style, side mount mufflers. I was happy with the results and ready to go. I then removed the cowls, engines, plastic nacelle covers, and prepared the wings for joining. I rapped the wings in plastic garbage bags, so I don't get epoxy all over the wing. No matter how careful I am, I always manage to find dripped epoxy some where when joining wings, so I tape the edge of the wings then bag the wings.

Trial fit your wing brace, before you epoxy. I needed to remove some excess glue deep into the wing, to get a good easy fit, with my dihedral brace. My wings lined up and fit perfectly together. After this I used 15 minute epoxy and glued in the diheral brace into one wing. Then when it was dried, I coated the wing joining area, dihedrdal brace and other half of the wing...and slid the wings together. I cleaned up the excess epoxy and clamped it all together. After it was dried I removed the tape and plastic cover bags on the wings.

Next I will reinstall the engines, set up and align the carburators again, and finish installing the nacelle plastic and fiberglass cowls.

Last I will need to glue on the tip tanks.

Next I will assemble the model, install the top wing fuselage cover piece, and do a wt. & bal. I will do the wt. & bal. with the gear retracted, so when I drop the gear, the CG will shift forward just a bit. Better forward then aft CG on landing. The wt. & bal. will tell me where to install the receiver and receiver battery.

My kit is missing the wing drop tanks...I just noticed this, and I'll see if I can get the replacement parts.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Final Assembly,
I installed my wing tip tanks, turned the wing over and marked the CG with thin stripping tape (CG is 4.3" aft of the wing against the fuselage). I then mounted my nacelle covers, my engines & plumbing and reset my throttle servos-synchroizing both throttles together. Next the cowls were installed and carb needle extensions installed. I found out after I did this, my glow starter would not fit the port engine...so I will need to install remote glow heads for this model.

My model came out tail heavy. I got it to balance with a five cell 2000 ma battery set onto the tail. The only place I could mount the battery I had was just aft of the wing, under the aft fuselage window, where I had mounted the votage checker. Not the place I wanted, for I wanted to make a hatch aft on the fuse, but my battery would not fit any where aft of the wing. If I had a 3/2 hump battery pack, I would have been able to do it, but none on hand and the fun fly is this coming Saturday.

I mounted my on/off switch aft too, just under the trailing edge of the port side of the model. All the electrics are installed, sans the remote glow heads. The receiver was mounted just forward of the servo's and every thing hooked up and working.

I will not be making my nose gear doors operational right now, but making a 1/64 ply cover plate. I'll do the nose gear doors latter...

I'm almost done, but need to recheck my CG and correct this, plus set all my flight controls to manual. Last...engine run.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Ready to fly,

I've installed the remote plug units and weighted the model. I've dialed in the Tx to the airframe and waiting for the weather to clear.

The model came out to 11.5#, and near the manual build weight of 11.3 ~ 11.5#'s. I'm pleased with the weight and looking forward to the first flight.

Both my T.T Pro .46's have been broken in, prior to them being mounting onto this model. I used an old reliable Ugly Stick to do the honors and both these engines sing. I no longer install new engines in a twin...one is just looking for trouble if you do. Some twins are a hand full and I know of only one twin R/C model, that single engine flying was easy. The M.E.N. Trainer Twin, it had a stall speed higher then its single engine control speed...so even in a stall the model was fully controlable. All others I've flown, accept maybe the Sky Lark twin of Goldburg fame, was predictalble on one engine. All others I've built and seen flown, end up rekitted...with only one engine turning. Now, when I lose an engine...I cut the throttle and take what I get. I'm usually to low to act quickly enough, to bring power up on the good engine and feeding in enough rudder to keep the model controlable. The suckers just roll over and go in, if you don't reduce power quckly.

I've cycled the landing gear at least 15 times, getting every thing set up. I've one main gear that is sloppy with side play and the nose gear has lots of side play and fore and aft play too. Not to good and if these units do not hold up...I'll be calling Hobby People again. I'm not happy with the retracts at all and nothing like my Lado's. I've yet come accross any China made electrical landing gear in the 10# to 15# model weight that were any good.

I made a cover plate for the nose gear and will install the operational nose gear doors after the first flights.

The weather here has sucked for more then a week now...with high winds and rain. As soon as the weather breaks...I'll fly her.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

I think it looks pretty good, don't let that gizmo guy get to you. Some little boys just take their toys a little too seriously. Looking forward to the flight report.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hi Guys,
Today I was contacted by Hobby People and spoke to a agent named Russell. He told me to return my electric retracts and he will either send me serviceable units or refund my money. Tonight I will remove the kit supplied electric retracts and install the fixed landing gear. I'll forward pictures of the instillation of the fixed landing gear when I'm done.

I did go to the club field and wanted to fly the model, but I ended up with fuel tank foaming (the first time this has happened to me) and my engines went way lean. I will need to redo my fuel tank instillation and try again. It took me a while to understand what was happening to me and I hope I didn't cook my engines before I figured it out.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Missy,
Been around a lot longer than you, note date joined and post numbers. Guess that might take me of the little boy class? You might make it yourself someday?
Sure seems like this plane has it's share of problems even though Bob is trying his best. This in no way a personal attack on him, I just try and make my life simpler by staying
away from problems and the VQ Zero that I had so much resembles the A-26 it's hard for me to be positive.

Stuntpilot51

Gizmo,
You remind me of a moth circling a light bulb, you don't really have a clue and you continue to crash into it.

Heed your own advice and stay away! I have an interest in this project and really don't need to listen to you bash the guy who's doing us a service.

Being an intermediate pilot I'm sure this plane is way over your head, so as I said stay away!

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Fixed landing gear instillation-Nose Gear,

I removed the nose fairing with the .50 cal. guns, then removed the cockpit covering. Then I removed the nose steering servo, electrical nose gear retract unit and all servo "Y" harnesses. I then connected the rudder servo directly to the receiver (before I had a "Y" harness plugged into the receiver, to connect both the nose gear and main gear electrical retracts-and one "Y" harness for the rudder/steering servo). I was surprised at how much I removed.

One word of caution here...I removed the cockpit fairing and once this is removed, there is the aft cockpit bulkhead to care for. It is not a very strong piece of light ply/balsa wood and can be broken easily if care is not taken. Look at the third picture...this is the bulkhead I'm talking about.

The nose gear wire for the nose gear bracket, that is supplied in the kit, was to tight for my liking. The nose gear wire turned out to be .1765" diameter. I used a number 15 drill and enlarged the nose gear block, until the nose gear wire had a nice fit. The nose gear wire has a flat already ground for you, to tighten the steering arm onto, so locate this and install your nose gear wire and steering arm.

I installed a different servo arm on my rudder servo and ran a piece of yellow plastic tubing for my steering wire to run through-onto the nose steering arm. I braced the yellow tube in three places where it went through the bulkheads. I did this to keep the wire from moving, when actuating the rudder servo.

After this I screwed in the nose gear doors and I did this so I can remove them, for modification or servicing at a latter date.

I did install the kit supplied wheels and used the hardware supplied in the kit for the work. The plans/instructions show you using screws and nuts to install the nose gear block, but the kit came with screws and blind nuts. I used the blind nuts and after, a small drop of thin CA, behind the blind nuts will keep everything in place.

Next I'll do the wing mounted main gear.

Happy New Years,
Bobby of Maui

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Stunts,
You are so right, I will stick with my several big gassers, the are so basic someone like me can deal with them, have a nice day!

pattnut

Bob,
I have flown the black verson (Korea era) VQ Invader. It flew VERY well. Had a pair of OS 46s.
One strong suggestion: Lose the spinners! No "K" model -26s had them. Since you need nose weight anyway, use a pair of Higley Heavy (brass) spinner nuts. Much more scale and hassle free...

P.S. As a FAQ in Vietnam (OV-10s) I had occasion to work A-26Ks, (call sign "Nimrod") over the Ho Chi Mhin Trail in Laos.

Old Dawg