9five9

In my opinion, you want as many flexible parts as possible on the mini slash. I've had mine cartwheel down the street several times (accidentally of course), and the two battery covers are the only things that have broke on mine. with those kinds of crashes that the truck is capable of, I'm afraid metal is going to bend like crazy. also, plastic will absorb impacts. metal parts that don't bend won't absorb impact, thus stressing connected plastic parts even worse.

That's my two cents. I've had the truck for a year now, and drive it as hard as ever. The thing is extremely powerful, and once you learn to harness the power with the right driving and set up, it's an absolute blast to run.

If you do go with any metal parts, keep this thread updated with how they work out. I could be wrong.

hound54

Sorry the pic is a bit blurry.i lowered the front a bit more then this its a perfect fit just had to trim the wheel wells.

hound54

There is no oval tracks here just liked the look.and want to see if it will give me more downforce so it don't go into orbit on speed runs.just turn the front bumper upside  right and it's a slash again.with the front bumper upside down the angle matches the front hood exactly

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

looks neat. heres my mini slash

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

Hi

I buying my daughter one of these for christmas and I am buying my son a Losi Min Eight


I know this has probably been covered already but what LIPO battery will fit in this slash without any modding ? I am not sure to go with a 2 or 3 cell LIPO as I am looking to optimize the run times and speed !

Also is there anyone known parts that are breaking or have issues with so I can buy a couple of extras? I have 1/10 VXL slash and it very durable
Thanks for the help.


Scott

hound54

Shim the diff's

sweendog1969

Just have several questions.Does the proline vw bug body fit the 1/16 slash fairly easy? Mainly worried the body posts wont go up high enough. Has anyone used aluminum battery box doors? I mean the plastic ones are cheap enough but it sucks when you are out bashing and the door hinge breaks and your pack gets road rash down to the metal on the cell. I also have a lipo question,well mainly alipo charger/balancer question. I have a triton2 eq charger and need to know what would be the best lipo balancer for the charger.

TheKennyKiller

Is there any room to move for your batteries in the battery boxes? If so a little bit of foam to make them nice and snug might make them stay in there, other than that I would even try using some tape or something to keep them shut. I have no idea if alloy battery doors are they way to go or not but for me, I wouldn't like they extra weight they add.

I've seen plenty of pics of people using the VW bug body on the mini e-revo and it seemed to fit pretty well although I'm not sure if they were using longer body mounts/posts or not.

9five9

The battery doors suck on these things. I broke both of mine off, and really don't want integy crap on any of my vehicles. I have been using big thick rubber bands lately. Wrap them around the whole chassis, and they hold the battery pack in nicely

sweendog1969

Integy is junk....have an Integy steel cage for my 2.5 rustler..never been attached because it so bent up and miss aligned. the packs dont seem to move around alot.....unless the battery door comes off when i'm running the car then they hit the road. I also purchased the venom front/rear pushrods for the 1/16 slash and cant figure out how they expect them to be attached to the servo saver/servo horn. they should have included the hardware. The stock pushrods have the ball/screw molded together and i've tried other screws (for skid plate) and they are long enough and have the proper thread but the head is so big it doesnt allow free movement of the steering.

TheKennyKiller

Can you steal the ball screw thingy from the Slashs turnbuckles?

cexdonnr

I don't have a lot of offroad driving spots near my house

sweendog1969

Just got some venom racing turnbuckles for 1/16 slash......JUNK. first five minutes of running on gravel and they came appart. Look at them closer and notice half of the thread is of a smaller diameter. that and they have to adjusted almost all the way to the end to get the truck to track straight with almost no toe in or out. I should have know they where junk. Have bought venom batteries,tires/wheels,and now these, all way less than expected.

9five9

Has anyone been to a track where there is a 1/16 class? I really would like to race these trucks.