mcledan

Thanx Ramjet, Bill;

It has a much slimmer housing out to the prop driver. It is a plain bearing for sure.

rrengineer

My Feedback: (3)

Looks like a good candidate for the antifreeze in the slow cooker treatment!
Mike MacLean

Ram Jet

I'm sure you need to be told this but I always scratch a small "F" (front) on the forward facing side of the connecting rod so that I put the rod and piston back in right the first time. Oh, duh Bill.

Cheers,

Bill

Ram Jet

I haven't tried that yet because my girlfriend won't let me use her crock pot. I have had very good luck with lacquer thinner though. Just don't get any lacquer thinner on any rubber parts. It will destroy them.

Bill

mcledan

Mike
Precisely the question I was going to ask next. I really dont have a slow cooker, but I presume it holds a certain temp for a specified time.
What might they be?

Dan in Ottawa
P.S.
You may remember me from the query about the train wreck coming down from the mountains.

mcledan

Mike
Precisely the question I was going to ask next. I really dont have a slow cooker, but I presume it holds a certain temp for a specified time.
What might they be?

Dan in Ottawa
P.S.
You may remember me from the query about the train wreck coming down from the mountains.

mcledan

Bill
Thanx for the <F> tip. I dont pull engines apart, or very seldom, mostly 1/2A in the past.
I appreciate that tip very much.
Dan in Ottawa
P.S. You may see my name as Danato on occasion. Its the short form of Dan-AT-Ottawa.
There are quite a few who have my same name.
I got tired of requests for balsa strippers etc. ;^)

rrengineer

My Feedback: (3)

You can get the aluminum looking like new by just putting it in diluted (it will take a little longer sometimes) or full strength antifreeze overnight on the "LOW" setting. If you go back a few pages, you can see a .46 four stroke I "cooked" overnight. The hardest baked on castor oil will be gone the next day. Not rocket science here.
Mike

rrengineer

My Feedback: (3)

By the way, check with you local thrift store. You might find a Crock Pot for 5 or 10 bucks. A new one is only $20.

Ram Jet

I'll check that out. $20.00 isn't that bad either.

Thanks,

Bill

MikeG4936

My Feedback: (5)

A small 1 qt crock pot is only $10 from Walmart or Target. I just got one.

Ram Jet

Thank you. Heck, even I can afford THAT!

Cheers,

Bill

1QwkSport2.5r

I used Dawn Power Dissolver to clean my Enya SS and ST S90K cylinder heads and upper cylinder fins. 5 minutes with a toothbrush and 10 minutes soaking worked perfect. I dont let the castor get too baked on. My 60-4C is the worst, not sure where the oil is leaking... The allen head screw and the area around it is got a little castor goo cooked on. The head has only been off once, when I first got the engine to free up the piston ring and clean up the sticky valves. (It was never run, but stored poorly)

I filled the crankcase of my 60-4C with a mixture of ATF and seafoam to store it for winter. I think that should keep the cambox and valvetrain from rusting I hope.

mcledan

I have <F>'d my conrod ;^)
Thanx.
Dan

mcledan

1QwkSport2.5r

Is Dawn Power Dissolver sold in stores? I presume it is safe for aluminum.
BTW, thanx for the nice pix of the Enya 30SS to show me the size of the front BB.
And how to post pix which I missed on the <fast reply>.
Dan

Ram Jet

Dan, that's a good F'n thing! ;-)

Bill

Ram Jet

Just for reference here's a .40 BB.

Bill

mcledan

Thanx again.
It definetly has a <husky> front end.
You certainly can tell its got ball bearing in there compared to the smaller plain bushing one.
Dan

1QwkSport2.5r

I got mine at Walmart, but it should be obtainable at a grocery or department store like Walmart or Target. Not sure what they have in Canada. It's in a blue spray bottle, probably 10 ounces or so.

Like the antifreeze method, some aluminum will turn dark gray if left too long. I use an old toothbrush after soaking for 10 minutes, scrub, and rinse. Stubborn stains need more elbow grease.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Each brand of engine probably requires a test to see how long the Dawn can stay on it. I've close to an hour with Saitos and about 15 minutes with Evolutions.

speed lover

I'm looking at an engine and want to know if the stunt version is the same as the carb version it is a .61 cxrs pro a stunt engine but I'd be interested in putting a carb on it is it the sane as the CXR with a carb or is the timing different on the the liner if anyone knows I'd really apreciate the info.

downunder

I have the 61 CXLRS pro (rear exhaust) and AFAIK the only change was fitting a venturi instead of a carb plus a lower compression head button. The side exhaust version is essentially the same as the RE so the same holds true for it too. OK, I just checked the parts list and there's only one cylinder liner listed for both the CL and RC versions so no change in timings.

speed lover

Thanks for the info I did'nt bother with the engine it went for too much. So I might buy a new one from Enya. What do you think of the 61cx is it a good engine ? I've read people having debates about the liner not being chrome and being Nickel. I don't really know about this area in detail so it is pretty hard to get my head around it. Just wondering about the price. It is high and too be honest I'd pay it if I knew it was gonna last like the rest of the Enya range. But is it strictly built around 3D ? Being so light and not as powerfull as a full blown 60 class engine it looks like the engine is built for 3D and from what I've read it seems that it is in the 50 class power range. I can only guess that Enya have tried to produce 50 class power with low weight but with high response from low revs with a very flat power band and giving smooth throttling from anywhere in the band is this what they run ? I have a weston UK 50 T1 which is pretty good for power but I've got to say it is'nt perfect but is still a great engine. But I once had an Enya 60X and that thing had terriffic power and smooth and heard a few small SS Enya engines run and I have to say there are'nt many other engines that I've heard that run that well this is the reason I've been turned onto Enya. I love engines that just run so well anywhere in the band to me it makes flying the aeroplane it's in way more fun.

1QwkSport2.5r

I have two Enyas, an SS30bb and a 60-4C. The SS30 is the most well mannered engine I own, a real sweetheart, and I only paid $40 for it NIB. Mine is iron/steel piston/liner. My 60-4C is a nice running engine too, once I got the hang of tuning the needle that is.

Enyas run on cheap fuel, which is nice, and they are superbly made. What more could you ask for? Even abused Enyas will still run decent.

downunder

Enya have always been fairly conservative with their claimed power output but they rate the 61CX at 1.7HP which is comparable to the older 60X. Although the Enya web site just says the liner is ABN (with a ringed piston) the instruction leaflet goes into a bit more detail and says it's nickel plated with a silicon carbide composite. This is similar to Nikasil which is used on very high performance cars including F1.