AA5BY

I can think of some exceptions but not many.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

quote]ORIGINAL: earlwb
You definitely have my interest in your Meridian 10cc plane and how it does with the Evo 10cc engine. They do say 7.5 to 8 pounds, so if it stays under that max weight, I am hoping that it should do fine too. [/quote]


I just weighed the Meridian and the dry weight is 7 pounds 5 ounces Fueled up it will be close to 8 pounds .
I used a LiPo for the ignition instead of the LiFe due to space constraints and the LiPo is a bit heavier. but to get it to balance I had to move the NiMh from it's shelf to under the tank anyway. After flying and checking balance I may move it back but I think the weight is what it is.

chandley43231

My Feedback: (2)

on my hanger 9 b-25 i have the 2 per necells engine beams  can thos e beams be use  that came with the arf    i just never phycily seen the moter yet an the evo site hasnt given any beam dementions  or should i go off the 60nx??

rfan_1

My Feedback: (2)

Here is the link to the 10GX manual:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/EVOE10GX_Manual.pdf

The motor dimensions are on page 10.

jonkara

Anyone planning on using this in Tower's Kaos 40?

rfan_1

My Feedback: (2)

Here are a few pics of a Lanier Stinger II that I'm converting:




With the Bisson Pitts muffler mocked up:



Might have an issue with the nipple/line clearance:



Using a 6oz. tank, still have to thrash the ignition and battery in.:



The supplied muffler bolts are a tad too long, but should'nt pose a problem. When I have all the required holes drilled for the pickup/plug wire/switches, I'll tighten it all down and locktite everything that needs it.

This one should be a hoot! The plane was powered by a rimfire 46 on 5S before the conversion.

Phil

AA5BY

Earl... it seems I'm responding to your post twice. I'm nearing completion of the Seagull Funfly 3D, enough so to weigh the pieces of what is left to install. The published weight ranges from 5.1 - 5.7 lbs. My dry weight with the Evolution 10cc installed is 5lbs 12oz or right on the upper end of the published weight as long as no ballast weight is needed. And.... I did a little beefing of the firewall and gear support.

BlackPowder

Phil,
You do nice work, I have the same plane but I still have a Eflit 46 for power. Inseresting to know how is flies compared to the electric. Jim

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

For those that are running this engine, or better yet flying it, What is the fuel consumption like? How many ounces are being used for how much time? Trying to figure out tank size requirements, 8oz.?

AA5BY

Horizon reps say that 8 oz will fly 24 min WOT.

FlatSpin

That seems about right. I've been getting 20-22 mins on an 8 oz tank and there is an ounce or so left in it after two flights.

Dave

AJsToyz

Phil,

I remember you flying this one electric, not working out? I'm courious to see how this works out.

Andy

RiverLarry

RFAN-1 JUST RE DRILL AND TAP IN A DIFFERNT PLACE AND PLUG THE ONEMY .02 R / L

rfan_1

My Feedback: (2)

That's correct. The plane was ballistic! I seriously doubt that the 10GX can out perform the electric setup that was in the Stinger II.
I just wanted to try out the new gasser but didn't want to build another plane to do so. The motor bolted right on. No changing bind nuts or anything! Right now I'm undecided on whether to run an IBEF from TBM and 1 battery or deal with 2 batteries/switches, etc. I have a feeling I'm going to be tail heavy, and there isn't a whole lot of room to squeeze everything forward after the ignition box in installed. We'll see how it plays out.
Phil

rfan_1

My Feedback: (2)

That's exactly what I did. Painless!

rmh

Electric will beat IC for power - every time - but flight time will be shorter for same weight power setups .
My old Dalotel has a Hacker and 36 volts and swings a 20x14 prop - ballistic
the origin setups were not nearly as strong - BUT they flew longer an cost les to setup

Ron Stahl

My Feedback: (12)

Picked up two today at GPA hobbies. Looks very nice, planing on putting them in older kits that would be not bolero be converted to electric power. Glow is dead as far as I'm concerned!

MercerAUST

I was looking at the manual. It is strange that it does not recommend a metal motor mount and a nylon throttle control rod set-up. The engine even includes a felt clunk and inline fuel filter to help circumvent the other common beginner problems.

A metal motor mount helps with cooling the hotter running gas engine - not essential, but definitely helps if the engine is cowled in the first place and  is going to be hauling a typical 60 size set-up). An all metal throttle control rod can leak the high voltage electronic ignition back into the server, and hence into the RX set-up, causing server jitter or worse. A lesson all gas engine users learn sooner or later!.

earlwb

Sounds like a nice job on the plane though. Yeah I tend to reinforce things here and there too, subsitute better hardware, etc. But I suspect the prototype planes all come out with the better weights, but the production planes wind up using different materials or improvements or changes that add more weight to them versus the advertised weights. I think that using a LiFe reciever pack and maybe a Optical on/off switch or something does wonders for reducing the weight. When I first flew myEscapde 40, I used a separate 5 cell RX NMH battery pack and a 4 cell ignition NMH battery pack. The plane flew Ok but it seemed a bit lethargic and needed more of a take off roll to get airborne. When I switched it over to a single LiFe pack, the plane really came alive then. One of the NMH packs had gone bad on me, so I decided to switch over to a LiFe battery pack as I can field charge them as needed. Plus they hold a charge much longer without it dissipating too. You can't really determine how much capacity is left on a NMH pack or a LiFe pack for that matter. But it is easy to top off the charge on a LiFe pack though. But then after five or six flights with a LiFe pack in my plane, I tend to not want to fly it much more that day though.

earlwb

rfan_1,  your Stinger plane is looking really good. That is some nice cowl cutting to fit the engine too. I think that was a good choice as well. I have been thinking about using that plane for the engine too.

gene737

I just want to say thanks to all you guys who took a chance on something new. I have been reading with interest all of your comments and look forward to following this thread as more info is added. Had a firsthand chance to see AA5BY's engine and airframe. Can't wait to see him get it completed and get some run time on it. Good luck to all you dudes. Hope this engine works out for y'all.

rmh

[quote]ORIGINAL: MercerAUST

I was looking at the manual. It is strange that it does not recommend a metal motor mount and a nylon throttle control rod set-up. The engine even includes a felt clunk and inline fuel filter to help circumvent the other common beginner problems.
The use of a felt clunk and or a in line filter can proove to be of real disadvantage as the fuel flow gradually becomes restricted -
Seen it over n over thru the years
best bet isa clean system with fuel filtered as it it pumped to the tank.
as for the electronic leak problem - very minor possibility -except for damaged high tension lead and or loose spark plug cap.
push rod generating a problem- have not seen any of this on good systems and or on 2.4 systems
being neat is a good idea however.

pilotpete2

I'll second that motion
Pete

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Yes there are a few areas where they could improve.
A metal engine mount would be better.
A cable or nyrod would be an improvement over the music wire for the throttle.
Include the muffler manifold extension for the engine with the arf ,
Include a better grade tiller arm for the nose wheel.
Improve the mounting system for the nose wheel pant.

GallopingGhostler

Would one of those metal mounts with rubber grommets to dampen and isolate vibration prove useful?