kwik

Yes, that might be true. But for now, its just like magnetic ignition versus CDI.

CDI is still immature. So is electric retracts. So in the quest for getting rid of one problem, you just get another.

For now. Too bad it has to be like this. Lack of rigorous testing under real conditions is the culprit. We are the victims.

stoat

Dammit! Bloody prop driver broke again! Arrggghhh! And then the cam belt on my car snapped. Not a great day..... God knows what I'm gonna do about the prop driver. Epoxy it on?

youmanskids

sorry about your prop driver Stoat, I've had5 different DLE engines (20s, 30s, and nowa 60cc) and never had a bit of trouble with them, not sure what to tell you, (but you shouldjust shoot the car.... 45 calibur should do it !) I hope your week improves!

I just finished my retract tailwheel and doors, I just copied you guys method of linkage (sort of) and with a bit of trial and error I got them working great. thanks again for all the great help. Roger

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

I like the ESM 74" F4U so much, I wouldn't mind getting the ESM 50CC sized Corsair! The smaller one flies great and really hauls azz on a DLE-30 engine. I hope the 50cc is every bit as great a model as the 30cc version. But, have other things lined up right now. Good luck on all your 50cc F4U's! LBJ

youmanskids

I just got my bird all together last pm for ballance and weight check. I still lack the main gear doors (door sequencer, 4 micro servos and linkange), I put the CG at 135 mm from the leading edge, at the bend in the wing, per the manual. this required 1.5 lbs in the front of the cowl !! I have my batteries inside the motor mouting tube, all my servos are in the front servo tray (including the tailwheel servo) and she is still very tail heavy....I guess I shouldnt be surprised....you all have reported the same thing. oh well. I need to add the weight but I dont want the strain on the cowl so I plan to make a tray over the engine just like Nudger, then move the batts 6inches further forwad and add the lead weight there. My total all-up-weight was 28 3/4 lbs, But she looks great, cant wait for a nice day to maiden her! I'll put up some more pics later, pictures are always more fun. Roger

Mr_Grump

Hey Gents

I've been trying to add access panels. I cut the circular one in front of the canopy. Not the best job but it works for someone who has never done that sort of thing. I put to RX switches and a tach display inside that panel.

I've cut another on the right side just behind the cowl. It's about 1.5" square. I'm putting the ignition switch, fuel dot and the Smart-Fly cut off switch led. My big issue with both was hinging. Gees.... I've had a heck of a problem with that.

I'd like to know what/how you keep your hatches closed. I used a sliding latch on the circular panel. I could maybe squeeze one in for the ignition panel. I'd prefer a magnetic push latch.

What's your opinion? I'd appreciate some links to your suggestions.

Thanks Guys

Mr G

youmanskids

I just used "hatch hinges" from Hobby King with magnets from broken outrunner motors. works great, you can see them on my fuel/switch hatch and my tailweel doors.


here are some better pics, you have to go to the gallery to see them larger.if your hatch closes downwind, thenthe magnet will hold itfine.

hope this helps. the Lord knows you allhave been agreat help to me! roger

youmanskids

uploaded some more pics to my gallery and a video of the tailwheel doors..
http://youtu.be/1O0ysd1Yzy8

and some pics...

           
  
 Roger
 

Mr_Grump

Thanks Roger. Appreciate your input. Do you have any issues opening the fuel hatch? I didn't notice any type of handle.

Lane

youmanskids

I just use my fingernail under the edge, you could add a small handle if you wanted but that would notlook as clean. I also uploaded some more pics,to my prev post above.

stoat

Chaps, I use the same method. Hobbyking gear door hinges and a magnet to keep it closed. Fingernail to open.

I have added the weight I needed to the inside of the cowel right at the front using lead shot and epoxy. Means the cowling is about 3 lbs but the mounts cope fine and I no longer have any issue with the cowling screws coming loose with vibration, probably due to the mass dampening out the vibes.

Food for thought....

Mr_Grump

Thanks Gents.

I appreciate you....

Mr G

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Would someone who's built and flown this plane recommend it over say a Byron or TP ARF?
Thank you.

RAYGIB

My Feedback: (32)

What are the while lines painted in front of the canopy on Corsairs? They curve down each side. There must be a reason for them. Anyone know?

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Some corsairs leak fuel at the seams so those lines are tape to help seal things up.. After fuel is burnt off it's not a problem.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

I believe those were medical tape used as Bob describes.  Ram3500-RCU used medical tape cut to size for his Top Gun "Big Hog"

youmanskids

I got her ready for the maiden. I moved the batteriesto a shelf over the engine and saved 1/2 lb of nose weight. I put 1 lb of steel BBs with 4 oz of fiberglass resin in the cowl and the CG is at 130 mm, sltly nose heavy but still lacking the main gear door servos which will be sltly aft of the CG so it should be about right. All up weight is 28 1/2lbs. I did have to cut small holes in the cowl for the plug boots on the DLE 60cc twin. She is chomping at the bit to go fly but we have a 15-20 mph SW wind today and I don't want to have to correct for wind during a maiden on this high $$ model !! so I'll bite my lip and wait till tomorrow- looks perfect with temps up to 52 deg F, and winds at 5 mph- I'll have my flying buddy video it. hopefuly nothing exciting will occur.... She is not painted or weathered yet, still waiting for STOAT to put up that toutorial video for me !! Roger

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I still haven't gotten an answer to my question would ya'll recommend this plane as a beater plane? Really scale planes I have already, but I lost my GS TF Mustang of 12 or more years when a tree midaired with the plane

I'm thinking if either this Corsair or the TF Arf. I have a bud who's built several ESM planes and he says. umm bob, don't get it. It's pretty crappy engineering wise BUT they do fly well!

So.. what say ya'll?

captainron

BOBH,

Listen to your buddy..............I built the ESM Corsair and would NOT do it again............get the TP ARF and the Robart Retracts. ESM retracts suck.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Ron, thank you. thats one!

stoat

Love my esm corsair. Haven't flown or owned a byron one so hard to compare. You will probably find that those that can afford a byron model won't botherwwith an esm model, so may be hard to get a comparison.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Byron? hmm I was thinking TF Giant.. Although the Bryons are pretty decent. Just more building etc..

stoat

Uh, sorry, I meant TF. I had Byron in my head from another conversation.

kwik

I love the ESM 50cc Corsair. I have Robart retracts. ( Would never buy ESM retracts after my experience with earlier versions. Burnt once, stays away forever. hehe)

Best plane I have ever had. Very practical to haul around on its wheels. ( Robart ALU wheels)

Just slide on the outer wing panels and fly.



Is it lots of work to get it flying? Depends on you, and your state of mind, really;

Are you one of the 3-D guys , been flying mass produced superlight boxes with wings?

And now, you want to fly a warbird?

Or.....are you a warbird-man, been building warbirds for many years? And now, you see a chance to get a big, tough WARBIRD faster than normal ?

If you are the first kind, buy a superlight monokote variant. Fly it, and be happy.

For the second kind, the ESM Corsair will be what you want. Or the Top Flite ARC variant that you can glass.( But that would be much more work for you)

Just my opinion.

Throw away the typical ARF hardware you dont like, and use your own preferred warbird stuff.

As a warbird man you will love to pimp the Corsair with a hatch here, a hatch there, maybe sliding canopy, perhaps working gear doors.

You will enjoy the nice finish, and perhaps introduce a different solution on elevator and rudder control. Because you are a warbird man,
you will enjoy and find pleasure in all that.

And you wont moan and groan if there is a small detail not 100% perfect. Like a bent gear door, or something like that. You will fix that detail.

You will use 30 minutes with a dremel, and get rid of the engine thrust line, which is 2 degrees to the right, instead of straight.

And then, one day, you will enjoy your warbird a LOT, and you wont listen, when someone says 14.5 kg's is too heavy for a warbird of that size.

Because it is not. It is just fine.

Here is mine in flight;

Mr_Grump

I've been working on mine for about a year I think. Lots of reasons for that. Mostly inexperience and frustration. A two steps forward and one step back thing. At times, I'd walk away for a month or more because I was tired of fighting it.

I bought this bird because of two things; the cost, and the experienced people in this forum. I've not built a lot of models over the years. Spent most of my working life moving around or in countries where RC'n isn't done so kit building wasn't practical. I also liked the girl on the cowl.

I bought the 1st generation ESM electrics from TBM. TBM screwed over a bunch of us when they put those on the market without disclosing the cycle times. If I remember correctly, 17 or so seconds. Get in a jam and you might not get your gear down in time. I didn't want to mess with an air system. No more business with TBM.

So, Mitch Stott at D&L (Down and Locked) retracts came to my rescue. Great service and great mod to my ESM's. Now, I've got a lot of money in my retracts. So as already said, buy Robart electrics (D&L's under Robart name) and your good. The ESM's can be good but you'll be modding them as others have done here to make them so.

The bird itself need a lot of work as well. Kwik mentioned the engine thrust angle. I believe he flipped the angle. You want right thrust. Mine and many others came with left thrust. So that was the first major mod. I've made many more from the experience of others here.

It boils down to experience and how much pleasure to you get from re-working a builders ARF. Would I do it again? Maybe. I'm about finished with a 24 x 36 shop so I've got the space and I've always wanted the P-40. More than likely, I'll just build from a pre-cut kit from one of the giant scale plan makers. I'll will however be modding it based on the tips and tricks I've learned from the guys here and myself building the ESM.

Lane