greggles47

What prop do you use on the Fox? I have one in my Akromaster, and yet to find the happy combination.

Greg

gcb

Mike,
The original white Tornados in the mid fifties were indeed white nylon. Flyers had trouble seeing the prop arc so Grish changed color of the Tornado props to yellow, which were highly visible. In the mean time Top Flite used a red tip and stripe to show the prop arc on their white nylon props.
The Polyester Tornado props came many years later.

George

gcb

Greg,
It seems for most conditions Fox .15's whether the original steel fin Rockets, the slant plug "X", or the Schnuerles seem to like an 8"x4" or 7"x6". The schnuerles just turn them faster.

I prefer fuel with 15% nitro and 20%-22% lube half or more castor.

I liked my baffle Fox .15's a lot better when I stopped trying to over prop them.

Good luck with yours.

George

BtnFlyGuy

As long as we're talking about Fox 15's, (slightly off topic) I'm having a deuce of a time gettin my plain new from the box engine to start for the break-in. How many turns should the needle valve be screwed out from fully closed? The instructions say to take it all the way out and then screw it in 3-4 turns. All I get for my trouble is a nice squirt in the face from the flooded venturi. It'll pop about every four swings, but I know it's flooded out. The engine is mounted on a test stand with the fuel pickup dead level with the needle valve.

greggles47

With any new engine, I like to start with the NV closed, then give it a prime until it feels happy. The connect battery and flick. Once it starts to fire & try to burn off the prime I open the NV until it starts and adjust as necessary. It may take a few goes before it'll continue running.

G

stuntflyr

Close the needle valve and then turn it out three turns, it ought to start.
Chris...

gcb

If you really do get a squirt in the face check that you can not see the spraybar hole.

I never go by turns, it's often wrong. Close the needle then open a turn and turn over the prop with a finger covering the intake (as in choke). If no fuel enters the fuel line, open one more turn. Continue this until you can see fuel entering the line. At this point, flip a few times to distribute the fuel. Connect booster and turn prop over while holding it. If you feel a "bump" it is ready to start. Flip prop to start and it should start running. Be ready to adjust needle.

Before starting this procedure, as mentioned previously run off some primes to ensure that everything else is OK.

BTW, which NIB Fox .15 do you have?

George

BtnFlyGuy

I have three Fox .15's, baffle piston. Two are NIB and one looks barely used. I have not tried to start it yet, but i'm really thinking about it so I can get my Akromaster in the air before the season ends. Thanks for all the advice. I'll try out the tips as soon as the house is empty and the noise won't bother the first floor neighbors.

Don B.H.

Well Btn Fly Guy This Shoestring is starting to come alive as the Fox runs in, I put a 3oz tank with a clunk on her and a newer Fox needle.
  How are you making out with your Shoestring Stunter.

I started building a Ringmaster and may start a new thread on that.

BtnFlyGuy

Don, I have not started the Shoestring yet, but I did buy another one in better shape and (get this) I also purchased a Ringmaster, so if you start that thread I'll certainly be watching it. My Midwest ME-109 is almost finished and I have managed to get the engine to run a bit, not even a full tank yet, but it's getting there.

Don B.H.

I am watching That Ring Jr on E-bay. This guy has Ringmasters he must be allright.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sterling-Rin...item19d65233c8

BtnFlyGuy

Well, I built my first full-sized ringmaster and despite the die-crushed ironwood balsa and the cardboard type ply, it turned out pretty well, even with my first attempt at using monokote. Ihad been a silkspan and dope kinda' guy before.
Now the shoestring is on the building board and compared to the ringmaster, it's a delight to build. The balsa is the right density, the diecuts were complete and it's taken me half the time to get the wing framed up and the fuselage and tail surface primed and ready for paint. I'm going to monokote the wing and rattlecan-rustoleum the rest. I do wish Ihad a set of decals for it though. The colors are going to be the original chertreuse (yellow) and red. I have an OS .30 for it.
Here's the Ringmaster with a Fox .29...

BtnFlyGuy

Back to this thread!
I'm working on the Shoestring now after building my first full size Ringmaster with the Fox .29. The RM was fun to build, even with the original ironwood balsa, die-crushed parts and cardboard-like ply. It was also my first attempt at Monokote after being a dope and silkspan kinda' guy back in the '70's. I'll build another from scratch next time.
The Shoestring was a dream to frame up by comparison. The parts practically fell out of the sheets (except for the 1/2" balsa fuse wing cutout that required some coaxing. The wing will be covered in Monokote and the fuselage and tail surfaces are Rustoleum. Colors are yellow and red just like the full acale. I wish I had the number decals, though so any help there would be appreciated.
Here's a pic of the RM. I'll post the Shoestring after it's done and the OS MAX .30 is broken in.

Don B.H.

I love the Ringmaster you have there and I am looking forward to seeing the Shoestring you are working on.

jcralley

You can make your own decals. Check out this thread: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10593478/anchors_10593723/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10593723]Do it yourself Decals[/link]

GallopingGhostler

Those are really nice pictures of the Shoestring, classic Goldberg, love the decals, a really nice job. Love the yellow with red trim look, sharp.

BtnFlyGuy

Well, now I can say that I've built a Shoestring! When Iwas 17 back in the '70's Isaw one and thought it was a great looking plane, but Iwas flying my only craft, a Casburn "Lucky Sport" (wish Ihad one of those again) and could not afford a new plane AND fuel. Now I've finished mine and Ihave to say that it was a delight to build after the Ringmaster. I had no decals, so had to have them redrawn from a .40 set. The registration numbers were unusable, but the racing numbers make the plane.
Power is an O.S. .30 of unknown age that looks to be new. I'll have it on the bench when the weather warms up. Question: Is the APC 9-5 prop the right size?
So now Ihave the RIngmaster and the Shoestring ready to start the season with. Next on the bench is a "Fancherized" Twister so Ihave my first flapped stunter.

Don B.H.

It looks good and the shoestring flies sweet. I built the Shostring then the Ringmaster and now the Ringmaster Twinwith 2 OS.15LA engines and 3 Oz. tanksThe 9X5 prop will be OK for run-in and I run 9X6 on the OS .25La (bushing) engines if you have a OS .30 Bearing engine it will turn a 10X4 or 10X6 at close to18,000 rpm the
OS .25XL will turn a 10X4 at 17.500. Let us know how it flys.

Gungadin

For the OS 30 a good starting point would be the APC 10X5. I used to fly my Shoestring with a RevUp 9X5, but it had a 60's vintage Fox 25. Your OS should have more power and handle the 10X5 OK.

Don B.H.

Youcould put a 9X8 on and really burn circles!

The 10X4 would give you power (torque) and the 9x8 will give you speed.
and the 10X5 would be less torque little more speed, you should be able to
turn upto a 10X6 but and old OS.30 it may drop rpms..
Show us a photo of the engine.

Gungadin

Don

The 9X8 is too much prop for the OS 30. It will be hard to needle, probably overhheat and burn down.

BtnFlyGuy

I looked at the engine a bit more...it's an OS MAX-S .30. It looks as though it has never been run.
I'm also going with a Great Planes aluminum spinner because Idon't trust the snap on. (Unless you folks know how to get a prop nut under that thing)

Gungadin

You may have to bench run this engine and run 3-4 tanks thru it for break-in. I'm not sure of the metallurgy on this one. Probably steel piston & iron sleeve, but not sure. If it is, it will need slow rich running at first, with complete cool down in between runs.

GallopingGhostler

I've been following the discussion in this thread with interest. I have a few OS Maxes and Enyas of the same era, but not the Max 30. Those era engines of the 1960's were steel/iron piston and sleeve technology, long wearing if one took care of them. Interestingly enough, could not find an engine manual for it on the 'net. My Enya engine manual that covers the entire range of Enyas show the Enya .29's are essentially a .30 with a displacement of 0.299. Data including prop sizes for the plain bearing .29-V are (interpretation in brackets):

Stunt 9-10x7-5 [9x7 - 10x5], Free Flight 10-11x5-3 [10x5 - 11x3], RC 9-10x6-5 [9x6 - 10x5], CL RPM 10000-17000, CL HP 0.80.

This seems to more or less substantiate observations for the similar displacement Max .30 acceptable prop sizes. The 9x8 and 10x6 are too aggressive. One could go with slightly less pitch props. The 9x6 or 9x5 would probably work as a good break in prop on the OS.

At any rate, YMMV.

Don B.H.

Yes that is the older OS and the props I talked about would be a little much.