tyler19

First let me say we are new to the rc world, my son got a redcat s30 valcano fro christmas and we have not had it running yet. Recently we got it started after numerous times of air lock issues and scrapped fingers. First problem when we do get it started all 4 tires spin, we tried adjusting the HSN to the point they only spin a little, but when we hit the throttle the cars dies right out, also i noticed fuel coming out of the exhaust when running and when we try to start it. Now we are at the point were the car will not start at all, we can get the engine to almost start but it takes alot of pulls to get it to that point., very frustrated right now.

nitrosportsandrunner

HI, search "nitro breakin, or rc break in on youtube.

They come from the factory running rich (high fuel mixture)
This is because the fuel has the oil. And the motor needs to be broken in 1st. This is done by running several tanks threw it....and with each new tank you lean out the HSN. Thus, with each tank the motor temps will raise alittle.

By the end of tank 5-6, the motor is now broken in. also, I like to "idle" the 1st tank. And then I run slow, steady, figure "8" for the next few tanks.

once the motor is broken in, then you tune the low speed needle.

If, out of the box, the wheels want to spin fast when you start it up, you have to adjust the idle set screw. This screw adjusts the carb opening while at idle. The smaller the opening, the less air/fuel that goes into the motor.

So, put the HSN back to stock (or as close as you can remeber it being) and do alittle youtube/google searching on nitro breakin. Youll find tips like, pre-heating the motor with a hair dryer (make the motor easier to pull over)

Breaking in a new motor is both fun, and a HUGE pain. Its tedious, but at the same time with each tank you will see the motor producing more power. And when you get to the point of doing your final tune, the thing really comes alive!

Dads like rc too

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_dmf1b7Jow

tyler19

Thanks for the info, now when turning the needle clockwise is that leaning or riching the fuel mixture, also if I want to put the needles back to factory setting, how do I know where the factory settings are?

nitrosportsandrunner

yes, clockwise is leaning....opposite is richining. also can think of it as the needle backing out is richining.

You can screw it in fully (do not tighen, just screw in easy till it doesnt want to go further) then back it out 4 turns. That should be a safe starting point.

Then once its started (with wheels off the ground and throttle closed) adjust the carb gap till the tires only just bearly move. Once on the gound, they should move.

Again, the 1st few tanks are for breaking in the motor. dont worry about a perfect idle now. Even if your idle is high you can just let it drive around in figure "8" for a whole tank.

With each tank, as you lean it out, the idle may increase some, so adjsutments as you progress may be nessesary.

tyler19

Got it, thanks again for all your help, will let you know how it went, hopefully we will have it up and running this weekend.

tyler19

Thanks for the video.

tyler19

ok, i have got it started however i am having a problem with the wheels still spinning( and are they spinning!). I have leaned the idle screw just enough that there is a small gap in the carb and get it to start, if i lean it anymore it will not start. Now i'm not sure were to go from here, do i try and lean the HSN or the LSN, i have put the HSN and the LSN back to factory settings(turned the needles in to snug then backed them out 4 turns)

Dads like rc too

Ok if your sure your idle is set low enough you can richen the HSN. The leaner it is the more it will want to rev. Just turn it out counter clockwise in small increments, 1/8 turn at a time. Actually before you even do that make sure your throttle trim is not the problem and that your carb linkage isn't keeping it open more than it should.

Gerdia

Tyler, I had the same problem with my Tornado S30. It does take time to figure this out, I'm new also, Check your throttle trim on the remote pistol.

Dads like rc too

Great advice. This hobby can be very frustrating at first if you don't have a buddy standing by to show you the ropes. It's even worse if you are the type of person that has absolutely no mechanical understanding. Many times I've helped people that just don't understand the simplist of mechanical problems and ultimately they give it up. This hobby is definately for people that like to troubleshoot problems. It's ok if you don't know all the answers, but if you have the ability to understand it and learn from your experience, you will get a lot out of this hobby.

tyler19

How do I check to see if the throttle trim is the problem and how would I need adjust for that also the same goes for the throttle linkage? Doesn't the LSN adjust the throttle linkage. So the way I'm understanding for the wheel spin is the HSN is set to lean, the leaner the needle settings the higher the idle speed and the hotter the engine will run?

Dads like rc too

The throttle trim has the ability to increase your throttle slightly "kind of like a choke". This is helpful when starting and the engine is cold and doesn't want to idle well. You can increase your trim which will just keep your throttle slightly increased. So be sure your high rev problem is not the throttle trim maxed out. With the engine off, turn on your electronics and radio and operate the throttle. Make sure the barrel of the carb is returning to the closed position when you release the throttle. You can operate your trim like this and see what it does to the carb so you understand it better.

The LSN does not adjust the linkage. The LSN is the adjustment screw that is inside the carb barrel. You see it from the side of the barrel. After the engine is running good at idle and high speed you can adjust the LSN for better performance off the line. Turning in on the LSN will make it more lean, turning out will make it rich. Many people check their LSN by what is called the pinch test. Pinch the fuel line and see how long it takes to stall. If the LSN is right it should run about 3-4 seconds. Any longer and it's too rich, shorter and it's too lean.

tyler19

Thanks for the info Dads, starting to understand the adjustments.

Dads like rc too

no problem. Sometimes its hard to understand trying to read it. I know Redcat has a ton of videos on youtube from Alishamo, they cover all kinds of tuning issues from break in all the way to final adjustment. Sometimes seeing it helps you understand some of the lingo better, but just keep posting any questions you might have, someone will on here will find you the answer. As I said before, if your starting out in this hobby without a buddy to help you, it can be difficult. I still remember trying to start my first nitro engine, it seemed so difficult. I probably still have marks on my fingers from gripping the pull start. Now I can't believe how something so simple was that hard at first.

tyler19

I have taken your advice and have been on YouTube , between your advice and videos it is starting to sink in, lol. And yes we have had a few blisters and lost some skin trying to start this RC , we are not giving up, we are on a mission to get it running!!

Dads like rc too

Just remember that if your engine doesn't give you any sign that it wants to start within 10-15 pulls, it's probably not going to. At that point your just testing the pull start and your patients. Most of the time if you've primed correctly and your glow igniter is charged your engine will fire on the first pull or at least cough. 2 or 3 pulls to start becomes normal once you've figured out what your doing. Also don't white knuckle your pull start, it doesn't start easier that way.

tyler19

Dads, ok heres where i'm at, i finally got the tire spin to stop at idle by adjusting throttle trim and riching up the HSN, did the pich test on the fuel line to shut down car it took 3-4 seconds so i think the LSN is good, Now where do i go from here small figure 8's for a couple tanks? Also if i'm having trouble with throttling while doing the small 8's Hesitation etc. i would adjust the throttle trim on the pistol?

Hulk1211

Yes. you would want to do the figure 8's for about 4 - 6 tanks of fuel to make sure your motor is completely broken in. After each tank of fuel let the motor completely cool down for about 30 minutes in-between running another tank through. This allows the engine to comepletely cycle the heat and it will be a happier nitro engine later in life.

As for your model being sluggish right now. That will happen because your motor is not completely broken in and is running a little rich. Once you get it broke in, you can turn the needle in about 1/8th turn at a time until you are running good, with little to no lag time in the throttle response.

Dads like rc too

Yes, figure 8's for 4-5 tanks. Really the last two tanks you should start running 3-4 seconds on throttle, 3-4 off throttle. 4th tank use 1/4 throttle, 5th tank use 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Gentle application, roll into the throttle. It's ok if it wants to stall right now, that's because how rich it's running. You should have to really ease into it so it doesn't stall. If it just won't stay running, lean the HSN in 1/8 turn increments in, shouldn't need more than a 1/4 turn max to just keep it running for now. After your 5th tank, run your next tank and do a few high speed passes, adjust your HSN until the engine sounds like it's running good and not choking. Remember you want a good stream of smoke still, also take it easy the first few tanks after break in the engine is still loosening up and will get faster on it's own. Try not to get all the power out of it on your first adjustment, it will happen on it's own.

tyler19

Finally got it outside and ran it for 5 tanks, however after waiting 5 mins in between tanks to refill the fuel it was hard to start at times, had to adjust the LSN to get it started and sometimes the idle needed to be adjusted, is this normal when breaking in the engine? It was cold outside mid 40's would that have anything to do with it? Also the braking on the car wasn't very good is there a way to adjust the breaking on the car?

Jswingle13

I think the black knob on the link coming from throttle over to the brake lever can be adjusted.... I think if you thread it in clockwise it will tighten the brakes. I just got mine broke in this weekend and already need to do repairs to my front bumper. I can't get my throttle closed to the proper gap for a lower idle. I turned my LSN out a little and seemed to help, I still need to do some fine adjusting.

JohnP2

Tyler, as others have noted, there is a bit of a learning curve with this....but it sounds you are doing spectacular!

I was in the EXACT same spot as you this time only 12 months ago. If you have the passion to continue forward as you work through the learning curve (i.e. lean on people here and research online),the experience is so much worth it! Many people leave Nitro RC because they give up during thefirst few tanks, but you'll find that those who have stuck with it are fanatical about how wonderful it is.

Check out my YouTube channel below and search for'Exceed' or 'Forza' for some vids that might help. It's the same OEM as the Tornado. If there is anything you get completely stuck with and would like me to puta "How To" video for you online, I have no problem doing so. As long as you are commited to this, you'll find your nitro brothers are there for you. ;-) Wityh guys like DadsLikeRCToo and NitroSportsandRunner, you can't go wrong. They know RedCats as well as anyone....period!

Dads like rc too

Ok so your still running heavy on the HSN because your were running break in tanks...right? The LSN would affect starting if it were too lean, but unless you leaned it out too much, that was probably not the issue. Remember you need 4 things to make that engine run. Air, Glow plug, fuel and compression. Number one, after running several tanks make sure your glow igniter isn't dying and that your plug is intact still working. Quick test to eliminate both from the problem is to pull the plug and test it, now you know your igniter and plug work. Now, is fuel flowing to the engine? Confirm this by checking the fuel line. Is the air filter covered and clogged with fine dirt...probably not in your case. More than likely the engine was hot which causes the sleave to expand. You'll know this by how much easier it is to pull after the engine is warm. So more than likely the engine was just hot causing compression to decrease which will make it harder to start. Now if you've been playing with the needles that can affect it, but remember, if you get the needles out of whack just run them both out again and fire it up nice and rich. Run it a few passes and adjust it as needed. After a few times you'll be a pro at it.

The brakes could be a few issues. Yes you can adjust the thumb adjuster to tighten the brakes up a bit. It could be the linkage or the pads could be a little loose. Also the disc will collect fuel and need to be cleaned from time to time. A squirt of brake clean will work temporarily but eventually you'll need to remove it and sand it and the pads with some coarse sand paper, it will work like brand new.