Sig Ryan STA
#901
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
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RE: Sig Ryan STA
Vincent I use vinyl tape to lay out the paint line then I mask about 1/2 inch off that with regular masking tape. I spray in between with the two with the liquid masking film, usually three coats, then pull the vinyl tape off and let the masking film dry. Peeling it off is similar to peeling wood glue off your fingers when dried, just knurl it right off. Because it is a liquid when applied it leaves a super crisp line with no bleed under.
Anyplace that carries hobby supplies should have it in one brand or another.
Anyplace that carries hobby supplies should have it in one brand or another.
#903
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
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RE: Sig Ryan STA
Yes it can and it is actually a little better brushed on, thicker and easier to peel. I'm just a cheap skate and want to get as much use as possible.
There is one major advantage, for me anyway, it does not leave a sticky residue behind. I have not found a tape yet that does not leave a little of it's adhesive on the airframe. But I use the dope type paints, something like latex or other water based paints the adhesive may not stay behind.
#904
RE: Sig Ryan STA
ORIGINAL: VincentJ
...school here just got cancelled so I'm glad I brought my fuse home last night. I'll be in my workshop as well! (Expecting 2-4 inches here) Let's get some work done....
...school here just got cancelled so I'm glad I brought my fuse home last night. I'll be in my workshop as well! (Expecting 2-4 inches here) Let's get some work done....
#905
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Ask and you will receive. The finished look. Do you still have kids at home? Mine are grown so Ihave to go to work no matter the weather.The liquid nmask is great stuff for painting canopies that have frames moulded in like a warbird or for doing markings, I bought mine at a local art store but try a craft store also like ACMoore.
#906
Thread Starter
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Well that looks pretty good! No, I don't have any children of my own. So I am able to do what I please for the most part. I have been fortunatethat when the weather is bad I don't have to go to work. I feel for those that do. It was nice to stay home and work in the workshop...
#907
Thread Starter
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Fuse is all taped offfor the final panel lines which will get sprayed tomorrow at work.
Shifting my attention to the rudder, specifically the plastic rudder cones that go on the lower halves of the rudder. Initially I had no intention on using them, but I may have changed my mind. I was able to fit them and conceal the pull-pull horns nicely. What I don't like about these cones is that they limit the amount of rudder the plane will have. I may purposely add more of a hinge gap between the rudder and fin to get a bit more deflection. From what I can tell in the photos that I have the gap between the fin and rudder are large anyway. I'll try it, I can always remove it if it dosen't work out.
Shifting my attention to the rudder, specifically the plastic rudder cones that go on the lower halves of the rudder. Initially I had no intention on using them, but I may have changed my mind. I was able to fit them and conceal the pull-pull horns nicely. What I don't like about these cones is that they limit the amount of rudder the plane will have. I may purposely add more of a hinge gap between the rudder and fin to get a bit more deflection. From what I can tell in the photos that I have the gap between the fin and rudder are large anyway. I'll try it, I can always remove it if it dosen't work out.
#908
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Gee VJ, I'm glad you posted that last photo. It made me think of my Cub and how much gap I want on the control surfaces. Hmmm....
By the way, that looks really good! Keep it!
Stay warm,
David
By the way, that looks really good! Keep it!
Stay warm,
David
#910
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Brunswick, ME
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RE: Sig Ryan STA
It seems like you will have a lot of rudder travel with size horn. The SIG "spec sheet" that has been posted several times reads 1/2" rudder left and right. That seems like very little for a model but that could be increased fairly easily. I would think you'd want to conceal the rudder controls as on the full scale (I think) and mount them inside those covers. That way both the elevator and rudder cables are hidden. The pushrod setup on the the one I bought gives plenty of rudder and tailwheel throw with a horn that will just fit inside the side covers. See the last picture in post #686. Just my opinion of course, but it seems a shame to have those large controls horns hanging out when they could be covered up.
Sorry,
Jaybird
Sorry,
Jaybird
#911
RE: Sig Ryan STA
+1 on that. My GPRyan has the horns hidden in the shrouds and it looks good.I'll se if I can post a picture later as I'm at work now. Well some of us have to go and support the govt.
#912
Thread Starter
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Negative on the horns inside of the cone. The length of the horns on there now have not been trimmed to proper length so it will be a lot shorter.This is a pull-pull systemsothe stock location of therudder contol was scrapped long ago. I want easy access to the clevis' if need be as well.
#913
Thread Starter
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Few days ago Anthony (Waconut) had suggestedfor me tomake rivets from aluminum soda cans so I decided to try my hand at it. I took a piece of 4-40 rod and ground one end to profile the dome shape ofa rivet. After sliceing open a Coke canI used a hammer and started to punch out these tiny rivets. As suggested this should be done over some firm rubber which I need to get from the hardware store.The end resultare some pretty nice facsimiles of rivet heads. This is going to take me a while....
Note: If you notice in the first photo where I'm holding the 4-40 rod, you will see a small blood blister where I slipped with the hammer. OUCH!
#915
RE: Sig Ryan STA
ORIGINAL: acerc
If you did not draw blood it does not count. Blisters don't count!
If you did not draw blood it does not count. Blisters don't count!
VJ,
Those rivets look great. You need to just set a few of them in place on the plane and snap a pic so we can see how they will look.
Anthony
#917
RE: Sig Ryan STA
I think they look great. You cannot get that consistancy in size and or shape with glue. They will really pop once the paint goes on.
Later!!
Anthony
Later!!
Anthony
#922
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Well in case yoou chane your mind about the rudder I'll include some pics of mine. The rivets look cool, only 993 more to go if you don't wear glasses now you will by the time your done. Are'nt you glad we came along for the ride, you might have just done a simple paint job by now and be done with this project
#923
Thread Starter
RE: Sig Ryan STA
Ok I painted the last of the panel lines and this time when I peeled off the Frog Tape I paid carefull attention if thier was that paint blocker gel under the tapes edge. As you can see there was.
Now I need a little help, I made a comparisonfrom the rivets made from 4-40- rod and rivets punched from 2-56 rod. Which one looks better. To my eye the 2-56 rivets seem more scale for a 1/5 scale plane. Tell me what you think!
Now I need a little help, I made a comparisonfrom the rivets made from 4-40- rod and rivets punched from 2-56 rod. Which one looks better. To my eye the 2-56 rivets seem more scale for a 1/5 scale plane. Tell me what you think!
#924
RE: Sig Ryan STA
I think the 2-56 looks better as well.
You may wind up needing both sizes. I think I remoember seeing larger and smaller rivets in pics.
Later!!
Anthony
You may wind up needing both sizes. I think I remoember seeing larger and smaller rivets in pics.
Later!!
Anthony