captinjohn

A timing light with a inductive pickup will work. All you need to do is make a Hi tensionlead about 2 inches long. Plug the unshielded Hi tension wire in series too sparkplug. Then the inductive pickup will work. Keep this apapter for use when a shielded lead prevents induction. Just common sense to figure it out...no rocket sicence!

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I never said you couldn't make an extension, thats just, as you say, common sense

I simply said, I don't believe an inductive pickup will work on a shielded cable, in my somewhat limited electronic experience.

343sp

OK Please understand that I post this from experience only.I would not mislead anyone with theory or supposition. The timing light I use is a Sears Roebuck model 161.2137 that I purchased at least 15 years ago and paid less than $20.00 for. In response to timing an engine yes I've done it but it requires a good degree wheel and a good dial indicator. I'll not use the bump stop method to locate exact T.D.C. I use the over center method hence the dial indicator. To pe reivers I've used timing lights to test the integrity of wheel speed sensors on abs brake systems with great success. I know I'm rambling off subject but this has worked flawlessly for me and it is a great diagnostic tool.

raydar

You said you have a dle 30, swap the ignition, plug, sensor, switch and battery with the 50 and go fly, if its not fixed then at least you can rule out the ignition system. If it is fixed run it like that for afew weeks before making any conclusions or pinpointing the fault.Better than going round in circles here and talking about timing lights.

I have not even read your symptoms and dont care what they are, no ones going to make a 100% diagnosis over the net unless theyget lucky.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Most of the top race engine builders use the "positive stop" method to determine true TDC, even though they have a dial indicator handy to then degree in the camshaft. If it is accurate enough for them, it sure works for me....

I'm with you PE on the batteries. I've got two or three planes running LiPoly batts with regulators, but I hate how fragile the LiPoly batts are, and the regulators are of course another possible failure point that make me nervous.

AV8TOR

Muttdog

Positive Stop is the MOST accurate method of determining TDC. I usually use dial indicator because it is easier but you have to take into account that there are 2-3 degrees of crank rotation at TDC that will have little to no effect on the dial indicator. I know it's off topic but I posted to this forum 2 days ago and was returning to see the progress. The issue still sounds electrical in nature to me due to the fact it is intermittent and my own personal experience with a defective igntion unit.

DIVERHERB

7kings

My Feedback: (1)

I appreciate the reply, but how can you offer a suggestion if you haven't even read the symptoms?

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

This thread is ridiculous!

OP, your answer was in POST#2.....If you can't figure it out, you need to send it in for repair.

raydar

Fuel, air, spark.

Im telling youhow to eliminate one of these factors without you spending money, trust me im helpin!.

Or you can go buy a iridium plug, buy a bowman ring, run your motor on snake oil at 1000/1, sand your reeds till your hands bleed, slay a goat to the dle gods lol.

7kings

My Feedback: (1)

Um. Wow. So the first thing I should do on a brand-new engine is to completely rebuild the carb and replace the hall sensor and ignition module, foregoing any other troubleshooting options?

Forgive me if I'd rather try a few other ideas first...

Thanks for the input.

pe reivers

That's what I do as well. I use a e-motor driven test stand for that.
Be careful though! My battery charger goes berserk when testing ignition systems that way in my shop. I must at least have two meters distance. Be sure you do no harm to your plane radio system.
My friend blew up his computer for the same reason when testing an RCexl (Radio frequency radiation at very high power levels), so don't do this alongside your keyboard.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

My experience trying to check magneto timing on a chain saw is that the timing light does not always trigger in real time and your positions will possibly be off at the rpms we are trying to measure.

For example:

After running the engine with the timing light and making your marks - then measuring with a degree wheel, you will come up with 12 degrees advance rather than 22 degrees.

Whereas checking your car at 700 rpm it works fine

3136

I'll ask again, have you tried this?
Or use your ignition from your dle 30 it will work on the 55 just as well.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Amen to that! By far the easiest on a small engine also. I couldn't imagine going through all the work to attach the dial indicator to the engine with some kind of jury rig setup then have to also insert the probe through the plug hole so it can contact the piston ..... all to have a final measurement that is less accurate than the positive stop method.

I time my engines with the same degree wheel and TDC indicator I used to measure glo engine port timing back in the 70's! My stops were all made from old spark plugs and most of these have been around for a few decades also. Just a few years ago, I made a new one for the smaller CM-6 plug thread size. You can pretty much set up all the equipment at almost zero cost and in about an hour's time.

For the purposes of this thread, timing is easy and a troubleshooting step just about anybody can learn.

willig10

To the OP. although the ignition is rated to 6 volts 4.8 is best. If your ignition is not blown here are my suggestions to you . Feel free to do as you wish however. If you have a spare ignition try that first. Second thing is to ensure the carb spacer or gasket to the engine is not cracked or loose. . Third is to ensure the spark plug boot is firmly seated on the spark plug. If all is well and your fuel tubing inside the tank is tyvon tubing not glow fuel tubing then your carb is dirty.

Glenn Williams

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

I forgot, the Chinese are world renowned for their production and quality standards. My bad...

7kings

My Feedback: (1)

Good suggestions. I'm really leaning towards something in the fuel system as opposed to the ignition system, but I'm obviously not ruling anything out. The more I turn it over in my mind, the more it feels like something is gunking up the fuel flow after the plane sits for a few days, only to be dislodged after we mess with the needles and fuel/defuel/fuel the plane during our troubleshooting.

My first steps this weekend (if the issue presents again, that is - it's tough to troubleshoot an issue that doesn't currently exist) will be to immediately defuel and refuel the plane to see if it corrects the problem. As this was a common action to each time we were able to get the engine running, it will be the first thing I'm going to try. If the engine begins running immediately, it will indicate some sort of restriction in the fuel flow to the engine that is cleared by the action of the hand pump forcing fuel through the lines. Following that, I'll proceed with some of the steps folks have suggested based on the symptoms that exist.

I'll post my findings.

Daniel Spurlock

My Feedback: (4)

You shouldnt use synthetic oil for break in.

7kings

My Feedback: (1)

I'm not. I'm using a synthetic blend.

pe reivers

Says who?

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Oh boy, here we go LOL

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

BarracudaHockey,


Moderator duty must be very interesting!

7kings

My Feedback: (1)

Regardless, the use of synthetic / synthetic blend / organic oils for break-in really shouldn't have anything to do with the symptoms of this issue...

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I was a hockey ref for ages, dealing with the 8 and under Squirt teams gave me a solid basis for forum moderating