roknHS

I don't think #0 is scale but, it's the closest you will probably have easy access to. That is what I would use.
As a side note: I have the J3 1/4 scale cub............the windshield is glued in and has never offered a problem. If you want the screws for security, I don't think you'll need them, if you want them for looks, thats up to you.

bikerbc

RoknHS is rite #0 x 1/4" is a close as you will get but you don"t really need them....I used them on my dash ..I put 1 screw in each of the 4 little holes around the instruments...It actually looks not bad...They are fun to handle .. I put a little piece of fuel tube on the end of my screw driver to help hold them till they start... If you do decide to use them on your windshield make sure you pre drill the windshield and don't over tighten or you will crack it...It is very very brittle .. I honestly would just go with canopy glue....It hold okay if you take time and tape it in place and let it set for 24 hrs...

sj3cub

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks for the help on the screw sizes guys. I was going to glue it, and just use a few of the screws for looks. Have not decided yet, as I don't want to make it look bad.

mobyal

Well, I finally got mine open and out of the box. I bought it back in Sept as a 70th birthday present to myself but had a couple of other projects underway (one of them the H9 Tiger Moth) and then decided to clean up the shop.
Opened it up yesterday and took everything out of the box and checked it out. Absolutely perfect. No broken parts, no crushed wingtip, no broken windshield, no dings or dents anywhere. A really goodlooking piece of work. Congrats to Horizon/H9.
I'm going electric with the power setup, motor, ESC, prop, batteries recommended by H9. Servos are JR Sport 126MG all around. I have everything needed to complete the thing. Right now the only mod I might do, other than some trim stuff, is larger wheels.
I have the H9 1/4 scale float kit that I got for my H9 1/4 J3. Never put them on it, but maybe they'll go on this one....
Let the games begin!
Al

bikerbc

Good luck mobyal I will be following along watching your build..I hope you enjoy it as much as I did..It it a wonderfull ARF...I am glad your kit is in good shape...You might find as the humidity changes a few wrinkles show up...Mine has quite a few now but it was perfect when it came out of the box.....I am really interested in the floats..I have heard they are a bit soft on the bottom...What do you think? I can add a layer or two of glass easily enough....

mobyal

Ken
The floats look good to me. I've had them out but as I said haven't used them yet. I thought the bottoms were fine on mine but it couldn't hurt to reinforce them.

bikerbc

roknHS could you tell me a little about your Hanger 9 J3....I have a Sig 1/4 scale J3 with a OS120 and I love it but it is not an ARF ...One thing that really concerns me is how durable the ARF will be...How strong the glue is and that kind of stuff..

G.P.

My Feedback: (1)

This was posted earlier in the thread. Maybe it was to take care of the issues you are referring to.

bikerbc

Are the floats that we can buy now the new design with the blue stripe?

G.P.

My Feedback: (1)

I think he is doing the stripe on his own personal floats, but any new stock that you get should be the floats with the upgraded keel. I bought a set with my Cub and they seem pretty beefy. They are just all silver, but at least they aren't Cub yellow!

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

Ok, did my maiden today. Saito 182 twin for power. It took off in about 40 feet at 1/2 throttle. Just a few clicks of trim and it was perfect. Flies really nice, just like a cub and looks great..... On the 2nd flight one of my wheel hubs broke...I had some 4-1/2 wheels in my trailer so the day wasn't done. Lost an exhaust extension and one of the landing gear bungee covers came loose... Minor headaches that will be fixed soon. Ordered some Dubro Cub wheels, and some inlatible ones, not sure which I will use.


R/C Foolish

Loopman

My Feedback: (195)

Okay Guys,
Just a few observations on my ( some of which may have all ready been addressed here) H9 PA-18.

a. All plastic parts are extremely brittle, especially the light covers for the wing tip lights. Use extra care when opening them up to install the light kit. Now I did not use the OEM light kit but one from "GT Power" so I may have had to open them up a little more than standard.

b. Regardless of which recommended powerplant you use (except for the electric set-up) you will end up butchering the bottom forward section of the cowl. This is a little disheartening considering that it is a very distinctive feature of this plane. I am going to try an RCV 120SP four stroke in order to maintain the aesthetic appearance of the cowl. The only real drawback with this motor is the rear starting gear that will require a hole in the top of the cowl. (Maybe if I construct a hatch, it will look better). I'm thinking that since this is a geared four stroke it should have no problem hauling the cub around.

c. The stab adjustment cover looks a little hokey so I will re-do that to look more scale.

d. I'm installing 6 inch Du-Bro Balloon style wheels to get more of a "Tundra" look and will also install the exterior belly cargo carrier.

Overall the kit is one of the best I've seen from H-9 but the verdict is still out on whether it was worth the money spent. H-9 is not know for being an economical buy.

Happy Flying!

Loopman

bikerbc

I broke one of my little bungee covers trying to install it so I am on my second set..This is when I noticed that there is a left and right side...My second set didn't fit any better than the first set did so I had to do some shiming . One side fit perfect and one I could not get to fit without it rubbing...The first one was like that too and that is how I broke it ,over tightening it ..I think maybe the nut is welded in the wrong spot ..Just off a tiny bit...AQnyway it fits like a glove now...Are you going to be able to fix yours?

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

I'm working on fixing everything right now. Have my cub tires ordered, will be here later this week. Bungee cover should be able to be fixed, looks like screws pulled thru fiberglass, will reinforce and replace.

R/C Foolish

bladebender

My Feedback: (5)

got my floats put together last nite now bolt the plane to them ,Direction are on the poor side need one picture with front and back mounted

roknHS

The J3 is the same quality in general as the PA-18. The plane is well constructed and the covering job is good. It does not have the kind of refinements we see in the PA-18. Conventional hinging on the ailerons, struts don't fold flat, no top hatch, door has a mechanical close rather than magnets, gear has springs not rubber bands, conventional tail wheel, etc. Fuel tank set up is the same, interior is similiar. All in all, a great 1/4 scale cub. It doesn't have any surprise flying characteristics, very honest plane. Keep it above stall speed is about all that is required for some very enjoyable flying.
Mine has a Brison 40cc motor on it. Plenty of power but not overkill.
I dumped mine in (stalled) from about 5ft on a piss poor landing and all it did was stretch the spring suspension on one side. It sure looked like it should be uglier than that but it wasn't. I'd say the plane is pretty tough. Mine weighs close to 17lbs. I've got 1/3 scale cub wheels on it.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

For the people that have flown this Cub how much transmitter down trim do we need to add when dropping the flaps?

bikerbc

R/C Foolish that sounds just like what happened to my bungee covers and I thought the screws had pulled thru the fiberglass too but what actually happened is , there is a little wodden block glued to the inside of the bungee cover and it breaks loose...It is a bugger to get back in place and reglue and hold etc.etc. .. You will see what I mean... If yours is like mine you are going to end up needing to shim it so you will be way better off to add a bit to that block before you glue it back in because it is a real bugger to work on after its in there...The reason it pulled off is because it didn't have enough clearance...If it is the same as mine anyway...If I have any more trouble with them I am going to scrap them...I really like how they look but I don't want a problem spot...Those little black tie on covers look pretty good too , and it would be a lot easier to access the rubber bands in the event of them needing service...Time will tell... Thanks for the info roknHS That is what I wanted to know...I have a friend who flys a Hanger 9 J3 on Floats at our clubs anual float fly so I am a little farmilliar with the plane although I have never flowen it...It too is a beautifull plane...Hanger 9 is putting out some really nice planes and their customer service is next to none.. You are rite about the stall speed..Espially on take off .I have a few Cubs and the stall can be surprizing . For such a slow and gentle flying plane the stall can be quite sudden.

bikerbc

I have a 3 line system for my gas tank...One to the carb , one vents out the bottom and one is for fill and empty ... I am planning on putting a fuel dot on my fill line and was thinking about drilling a hole in the side of the cowl and putting the line there but now I am wondering if I might be better to put the fuel dot in the side of the fuselage on back side of the firewall .. I was wondering how others have done theirs...Where did you put your fill line?

bikerbc

I have a 3 line system for my gas tank...One to the carb , one vents out the bottom and one is for fill and empty ... I am planning on putting a fuel dot on my fill line and was thinking about drilling a hole in the side of the cowl and putting the line there but now I am wondering if I might be better to put the fuel dot in the side of the fuselage on back side of the firewall .. I was wondering how others have done theirs...Where did you put your fill line? Edit...I am sorry for the double post...My finger ranaway on me...

tethys213

I basically followed what was stated in the manual. After a couple of flights I've backed off the the elevator compensation for full flaps. The manual called for 12mm and I'm guessing I'm closer to 10mm. I haven't measured it, I just adjusted it with the radio until I was happy with the results.

Asif

My Feedback: (30)

Ken,
I have a fuel dot on the side of the fuse. its a small fuel dot.
Asif

bikerbc

Asif thanks for the reply. I think thats what I am going to do too...You have done a nice job installing your motor... I am interested in how it will perform ... How your tank to spray bar worked out and your glow driver set up works etc..I may end up switching motors down the road...How did your balance work out? I have a Gemini 160 waiting for a home...I have been thinking about trying an ASP 160 too .. Is that the Saito in yours?

Asif

My Feedback: (30)

Ken thanks for your compliment. It is OS FT-160 in my cub, it is bit different from saito twin in term of installation. Firstly it needs a longer standoff. Secondly it mounts much lower than saito, didn't realize it till I got the motor!!
I am using McDaniel glow driver, the aircraft currently seems tail heavy, but once I have my glow and receiver Battries in the aircraft, I think I will be ok.
The only reason I did not go with saito twin is because it i twin carb therefore has 2 needles, one for each
Cylinder vs OS is one carb, and one needle. Performance should be similar or better as what you see in Hangar 9 video of super cub, with OS 160 twin you can use upto 18 x 8 prop.
Asif

roknHS

Biker,
Think I'll put my fuel dot on the cowl..........my J3 has it top of cowl just forward of the firewall. Don't know if it will end up there but, that's what I'm thinking. Before I consider the fuel dot, I've got to get the batteries and ignition in the tank compartment. That is gonna take some thinking and some time.
Hope you didn't just drop your vent line from the front of the tank out the bottom of the cowl..........it needs to go around the top of the tank before it's dropped out the bottom of the cowl..........keeps fuel from siphoning out the vent line when the nose is pointed down.