grimgard

I got this boat for Christmas and it arrived with a bent shaft and the motor looked like it was designed for an airplane. (you get what you pay for) I am still happy I got it and even with the repairs and upgrades it's a great deal! (flex cable $21.00 for two & $30 for the motor) I ended up getting a 4mm Flex shaft to replace the stock one, a 4mm coupler, and a Turingy 2900kv motor. This boat will be smoking fast! It's the same set up as my other boat and that boat is super fast as well. It's 27" long and has great scale looks!

*delete M i k e u p delete*

Hey, those 2 tunnel like pipes, plug them as they were hollow in mine. Chow time.

grimgard

I noticed that as well! I used some of the foam packaging from the box to stuff them and make them air tight. I also used some water proof clear glue on the drivers canopy. What set up are you running on yours?

*delete M i k e u p delete*

Hii, you know buying a boat that size and is equiped, is still the smartest move instead of buying just the hull and guessing which equipment to buy afterward.BTW- i see your city of Fremont is wise in the $ signs in operation of the city.Later.

sundogz

I sure am glad you posted this thread. I acquired a couple of these boats in a sale not long ago and didn't know what I had. One is for sale on [link=http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?39690-25-quot-China-Mono-with-hardware]OSE[/link]

grimgard

Nice find! These are super stable at high speeds. Have fun!

grimgard

I ran my boat for the first time with the 2900kv motor and I was checking the temps by touch and noticed the motor was getting hot so I stopped running it till I could figure out why. Could having the prop to deep in the water cause excessive drag and generate heat in the motor/ESC? As you can see from my picture the shaft/prop is about 2" past the end of the stuffing tube. I cut down the shaft and it is now 1/8" from the end of the tube and have not had a chance to recheck the temps. I know it's not the set up because I am using the same motor/ESC/Prop/water jacket in my Shark and that boat is a bit heaver and my Sharks motor is cool after running it. Both are V-hulls. The only difference is the P1 ARPRO is a little bit longer and wider as well as lighter. Thanks!

*delete M i k e u p delete*

Let me get this straight first. Your strut was/is 2" from end of stuffing tube and now is 1/8". You know what i would do is to get a new shaft/cable bit and check that strut in the picture for smoothness as maybe a bearing is froze. Don't run full bore on bench but would grease everything up like you were going for a run and run at lower speed and check everything . I would run strut at 0 degrees or level. but from what i read, binding or alignment of motor thru prop . First thing i would check is loosen couplercompletely so movement of cable/shaft have no effect on coupler. Ok, free hand prop for ease of movement. Try running motor with water running thru motorlike a siphon. I have extra hose and put a bucket with water on washing machine and boat at a lower level to see if cooling works. I put cart before the horse- with a 2900 kv are you using 11.1 which put your rpm at 32190 and if a 435 prop will make it warm but not hot if watercooling is working. I'm trying to cover most bases for you. Check listwatercooling is workingdrive line alignment/strut See if heat occurrs if you run 2S ( 7.4 ) lipo. I take it your using 3s. Let me know how things turn out. You just bought a 2900kv motor as you were having good luck in the other boat. Now as you read this, i jump all over on thoughts and just maybe the 2900kv isn't quite big enough. Wait a minute?????? Your using the 50 amp esc that came with the boat right!!!! Answer is esc, not high enough amps, depriving motor with enough juiice. Just put the other boat esc in and a new cable/shaft in and SMILE.

sundogz

It might have been a good idea to try a smaller prop before cutting the shaft. Different boats (length, girth, strakes, deep V vs shallow, etc) call for different setups. The strut was (long) to help prevent it from porpoising (hopping). You probably know that the strut tube could be shortened by loosening a screw on the strut (clamp) and pushing/pulling it to where you wanted it (you might have to shorten the flex cable as well). The silicone water jacket you're using only covers a third of the motor body - a longer one will cool better. And this is a bearing (not bushing) strut, and like Mikeup suggested, the bearing may be seized. Look closely at it while turning it by hand to see that the center of the bearing is turning. Better to not have it connected to the motor when you test this so you can feel if the bearing is shot (rough). The 'C' rating (and quality) of your lipo can make a big difference in efficiency and can overload the ESC as well as heat up the motor if it is inadequate. I would feel safe with a 30C rating or higher. And 2900kv might be too high for 3S in this setup - I say this because [link=http://www.nitrorcx.com/99b-10016-black-700-ep-artr.html]this ad[/link] says it comes with a 1508kv motor. If so, you're running almost twice the RPM's now. I'm glad you're testing this out, as I plan to get one of these running. I was thinking a 3674 2650kv Leopard might do well, but I'll wait and see how things turn out. Good luck!.

*delete M i k e u p delete*

I see you got the boat sold.They are a good boat. I gutted mine and put a Hershaw 650S motor in it on 3S on a 435 in parallel and worked fine except real tight turns would want to spin out. You just had to slow just a hair but not much. Speed was pretty darn good. The outrunner 1508 with cooling is in a 22" mono on 3S and a big blue HK prop ( 34 mm) and is plenty fast. Surprised me too!

grimgard

Great advice guys! The reason I trimmed the shaft was because that was the same length as the stock shaft. I still have the stock shaft and was able to straighten it but I didn't want to run it at high RPM's because I am not sure if there would be a slight wobble and that would just vibrate the boat apart. I checked the bearing and it is good and I am using the stock prop. I have not had a chance to retest it but will next week. I will post my results and keep everyone up to date with results.

sundogz

Yes, that sounds good. After some investigation it seems that 2900 kv motor you have should do well on 3S. Yes, I see what you were talking about now. And yes, having your prop too deep will put a strain on everything. It is designed to be a surface drive (only the bottom half of the prop is underwater with the hull touching the water). Sub surface is much less efficient. You're bound to see better results heat-wise, now that it is closer to the stock length.

I'm going to get this other Arpro going. I think I'll try a Leopard 2845 in the 2600-2900kv range, that way I can run 2S to 4S to see where is best. I'm not sure a 36mm motor will fit on the little stock mount. And besides, then I'd want to change the flex to a 4mm, and get a larger esc (I already have a 60A Seaking). It sounds like your boat could use turning fins to take full speed turns. That 1508 outrunner should make that 22" mono fly!

*delete M i k e u p delete*

Mr. Pompbled of Sneed, Netherlands tried every trick in the book includong turn fin but had no luck. I make my own turn fins and have had great luck with mine, wait and see.BTWM/mount is for 19mm setup. 2845-2600 on 3S will be close on rpm. The 22" mono is a wooden El Lobo II i make and is light. I use balsa and 1/32 ply with Gorilla glue with a touch of ca. The gorilla glue; i put on both side of support seams and ply. Now it firms up the whole hull and no flexing. I use full strakes with steps toward the transom which lifts the transom up a hair which requires alittle less horsepower and boat runs flat with strut a hair negative. Now it cuts the waves with ease. Fun part is making these units and see if they work and surprise the h*** out of me. Enough out of me. Gotta watch Phil Mickelson at Scottsdale. There's another motor at HK-2860-2700 on 3S and is SMOOTH with high power rating but needs a full cooling jacket as there's no endbell holes. I made my cooling jacket out of pcv pipe and with O rings and conformal coating and works perfect. I've done this for some time and never a leak.-2860-2700 mount holes are 16mm-19mm.

grimgard

A little update I re-ran the water cooling tubing and used a slightly larger fuel tubing and I bet this will increase water flow. I'll post results

sundogz

Thank you for that info on motor kv. I don't understand how the battery tray attaches to the aluminum plates in my photo. Any ideas?

grimgard

Mine is attached with epoxy.

sundogz

Yes, but why the little 'blocks' when the battery tray could have been epoxied to the hull itself?

grimgard

Most likely to give a little space so the battery can breath.

martno1fan

So its off the hull floor and you can fit velcro straps underneath too.
Mart

sundogz

Yes, that makes sense. Thanks!