Fuji .099 help?
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Fuji .099 help?
hello all,I have just been given a Fuji .099 engine from a mate cleaning out his dads garage, it looks quite old and luckily it's not seized or gummed up too much. My mate remembers it in his dads garage when he was a young fella, he is now 30. Is there anyone who knows much about these engines? And what is the best procedure cleaning wise and getting it running again as I'm still a bit green regarding glow engines (I'm a bit of an electric nut) and the only ones I have are Cox .049's (only 5 of them) and they have been issue free.Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
#2
RE: Fuji .099 help?
These came in a few different versions, the older are steel/iron technologies and the newer are ABC. If it turns over freely you don't really have to do anything, but you do have to run with with castor in the fuel, if it is the steel/iron construction. Even the ABC type will benefit from castor as it is a plain bearing engine.
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RE: Fuji .099 help?
The engine could be an 099, an 099-S an 099S-II or an 099SR-all of which are different-and the latter two had steel or ABC options towards the end of original manufacturer production. Manufacturing rights (and spares inventory) for the Fuji Bussan range are now held by MECOA in the USA-though the MECOA website is not particularly helpful when it comes to listing spare parts for Fujis-you have to email them direct-and hope you get a sensible answer. If it has twin exhausts, its one of the early style reverse flow scavenged model Fuji 099's-the S, S-II and SR 099 models had a 'conventional' cross flow glow layout with a single exhaust port on the right
The 099S was about the same as an OS Pet/OS Max-10 in performance, the S-II and SR models were more powerful.
There is a wealth of information on the 099 Fuji series (arguably too much!) on Ron Chernich's website: www.modelenginenews.org Searching here will throw up more than you probably want to know about Fuji 099s...................
Cleaning wise? The same care as I hope you'd use on any older engine when stripping for cleaning. A bit of heat first to ensure any baked hard castor is softened, so you can remove screws without too much force being needed, and the front housing without damaging the front gasket, then the same for the head. The cylinder liner (I only have experience of the S, S-II and SR models BTW) seats on a very very thin aluminium gasket-so be careful not to damage this. Head gasket is a more robust aluminium item. Internally the layout is similar to the Enya 09-and perfectly conventional. Use your favourite engine cleaner.
These were cheap engines in their day-aimed fairly and squarely at the economy end of the market-so don't expect much in the way of performance. But within that market niche they were-and are perfectly good engines-but not that heavily marketed outside Japan compared to OS and Enya.
ChrisM
'ffkiwi'
The 099S was about the same as an OS Pet/OS Max-10 in performance, the S-II and SR models were more powerful.
There is a wealth of information on the 099 Fuji series (arguably too much!) on Ron Chernich's website: www.modelenginenews.org Searching here will throw up more than you probably want to know about Fuji 099s...................
Cleaning wise? The same care as I hope you'd use on any older engine when stripping for cleaning. A bit of heat first to ensure any baked hard castor is softened, so you can remove screws without too much force being needed, and the front housing without damaging the front gasket, then the same for the head. The cylinder liner (I only have experience of the S, S-II and SR models BTW) seats on a very very thin aluminium gasket-so be careful not to damage this. Head gasket is a more robust aluminium item. Internally the layout is similar to the Enya 09-and perfectly conventional. Use your favourite engine cleaner.
These were cheap engines in their day-aimed fairly and squarely at the economy end of the market-so don't expect much in the way of performance. But within that market niche they were-and are perfectly good engines-but not that heavily marketed outside Japan compared to OS and Enya.
ChrisM
'ffkiwi'
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RE: Fuji .099 help?
My two cents worth. If it turns over do not take it apart. There is too much risk of damage to a gasket that may be hard to find a replacement for. Put a few drops of fresh fuel in the exaust and intake and turn it over a few times to see if it frees up. If it does just take the needle valve out and squirt fresh fuel thru the spray bar to clear any old oil out. Put the needle back in careful not to over tighten it. Turn it out about 5 turns from all the way in and hook up fuel line and a tank. Put a 6-4 prop on it to start. Check the glow plug. If it glows prime the motor and give it a good fast flip and see if it fires off the prime. If so fill the fuel tank and enjoy the noise!
#5
RE: Fuji .099 help?
You will find an engine manual for the Fuji here:
[link]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=955929&page=16#post23295444[/link]
It has recommended prop sizes and starting instructions for all the .099's.
I have the ABC version of the 099S-II. It is low compression at 5.5:1, I have 2 of them in new condition, one broke in the other not, plan to use them on Texaco like planes for their gentle running and throttling characteristics. Power appears to be about on par with the Enya .09-III TV that I have, may be a tad less (I don't have a tach). The 099S-II ABC is an odd one as it is ABC yet is baffle piston (not Schneurle) in design. I guess they took the earlier iron piston / steel cylinder design and replaced it with ABC.
If the 099S-II, it requires 4 turns on the needle valve (misspelled as "full turns", I know because of my experiences). They recommend an 8x3 prop for break in, by which I am told by others probably for its flywheel effect. I didn't have that so I broke it in using a 7x4 prop.
The 099SR is actually .11 in displacement, I don't have one, but looking at various forum comments, was a respectable powerful motor in its own right, very desirable.
[link]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=955929&page=16#post23295444[/link]
It has recommended prop sizes and starting instructions for all the .099's.
I have the ABC version of the 099S-II. It is low compression at 5.5:1, I have 2 of them in new condition, one broke in the other not, plan to use them on Texaco like planes for their gentle running and throttling characteristics. Power appears to be about on par with the Enya .09-III TV that I have, may be a tad less (I don't have a tach). The 099S-II ABC is an odd one as it is ABC yet is baffle piston (not Schneurle) in design. I guess they took the earlier iron piston / steel cylinder design and replaced it with ABC.
If the 099S-II, it requires 4 turns on the needle valve (misspelled as "full turns", I know because of my experiences). They recommend an 8x3 prop for break in, by which I am told by others probably for its flywheel effect. I didn't have that so I broke it in using a 7x4 prop.
The 099SR is actually .11 in displacement, I don't have one, but looking at various forum comments, was a respectable powerful motor in its own right, very desirable.
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RE: Fuji .099 help?
Sweet, I have done a bit of research and it is a .099 SII, it has a non R/C carb on it so i assume it is for C/L application. I couldn't resist so I took the head off and found that the top of the piston has an offset ridge 1/8" high on top. Thanks for all your input guys.
#7
RE: Fuji .099 help?
Yes, with only a needle valve assembly, it would be for free flight or CL, although one could use it wide open on a 2 channel RC plane. That 1/8" offset ridge is what they call the piston baffle. It helps to keep the new fuel charge separated from the exhaust and is common on the older non-Schneurle engine designs. These engines are capable of swinging larger props generally than the Schneurles usually at a slightly lower RPM, making them economical on fuel usage.
I am told these older engines, particularly if of iron piston in a steel cylinder liner with plain bearings like fuel with Castor oil content (Castor oil oxidizes at higher temperatures than other oils) with a touch more oil than the standard 18% used these days. You may find also that it likes hotter glow plugs.
You've got a piece of history, enjoy!
I am told these older engines, particularly if of iron piston in a steel cylinder liner with plain bearings like fuel with Castor oil content (Castor oil oxidizes at higher temperatures than other oils) with a touch more oil than the standard 18% used these days. You may find also that it likes hotter glow plugs.
You've got a piece of history, enjoy!
#8
RE: Fuji .099 help?
Yes, the ones with a baffle on the piston have iron pistons running in steel liners. Use 20-25% all castor in the fuel. There is another thread somewhere that discusses the very low compression ration in these engines, so you may need a high nitro level (>10%). The castor creates a varnish layer on the piston that helps it to seal against the cylinder, so don't clean the piston or cylinder from that, as that can ruin the seal completely in a used engine.
#9
RE: Fuji .099 help?
ORIGINAL: Mr Cox Yes, the ones with a baffle on the piston have iron pistons running in steel liners.
Use 20-25% all castor in the fuel.
There is another thread somewhere that discusses the very low compression ratio in these engines, so you may need a high nitro level (>10%).
The castor creates a varnish layer on the piston that helps it to seal against the cylinder, so don't clean the piston or cylinder from that, as that can ruin the seal completely in a used engine.
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RE: Fuji .099 help?
well here she is in all its heavenly glory, looks alot better than it did a few days ago. Just had a good talk with my dad as he is a keen R/C flyer/collector also, but he is 1000miles away, he is going to give me some of his old diesel engines he has had since he was in his teens, he was a keen C/L flyer and F/F. some of the engines he is giving me I would assume would be good additions to any collector, some include an old diesel Webra, an old diesel Frog, 35 Mc Coy (red head with black cylinder) and an ancient OS, I think he said it was a Pet?not too sure. Cant wait as the engine collector bug has bitten hard.
Thanks again for all your help guys, may you all have smooth flights and landings.
Thanks again for all your help guys, may you all have smooth flights and landings.
#11
RE: Fuji .099 help?
You do have a keeper there, Mick1404. She is almost begging to be placed on a 30" (760 mm) wingspan CL Sterling Ringmaster Junior profile stunt plane. Just curious, but is yours the older iron piston in a steel liner version? Then it was probably made in the 1960's. My ABC versions were among the last produced. I bought those in the 1980's at Hobby Shack in So. Cal. when they were liquidating them and discontinuing the Fuji brand. I either paid $5 or $10 US a piece for them.
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RE: Fuji .099 help?
Yeah Galloping Ghostler,the liner looks like steel and the piston looks like steel. I'm a bit excited to run it, but I got to get hold of some nitro with castor oil first, definitely a nice C/L model is on the cards, but first I got to finish off 3 unfinished models and rebuild my big Top Flite P-47.
#14
RE: Fuji .099 help?
ORIGINAL: GallopingGhostler
There was some mention of a special Fox fuel in the 1950's that had 28% Castor oil, to help restore the fit to old, worn out engines.
There was some mention of a special Fox fuel in the 1950's that had 28% Castor oil, to help restore the fit to old, worn out engines.
George
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RE: Fuji .099 help?
ORIGINAL: gcb
Fox Super Fuel came out in the early/mid fifties if I remember correctly. It is still available. It now has 5% nitro, 29% castor, and the rest methanol.
George
ORIGINAL: GallopingGhostler
There was some mention of a special Fox fuel in the 1950's that had 28% Castor oil, to help restore the fit to old, worn out engines.
There was some mention of a special Fox fuel in the 1950's that had 28% Castor oil, to help restore the fit to old, worn out engines.
George
#17
RE: Fuji .099 help?
ORIGINAL: mick1404 awesome, now I just have to find a similar product that is readily available in Australia, otherwise, I will have to blend my own, which I don't mind doing as then I know what it has in it. I would like to find a happy medium where I could have a fuel that all my Cox .049's can run on happily and with optimum performance and reliability and for my new addition (Fuji .099), but I'm assuming this might not be possible.
On the .049's, the Castor oil will protect the piston / connecting rod ball and socket joint and the aluminum bearing surface of the crankcase. Synth detergents help to keep the varnish from building up excessively. (BTDT, after so many runs on pure Castor oil fuel, have to periodically break down the engine and devarnish the cylinder with steel wool.)
YMMV.
Edit - corrected misspelling of "Klotz".
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RE: Fuji .099 help?
ORIGINAL: GallopingGhostler
Unless your old engines are really worn out, you might be able to get by with just upping the oil content of your fuel with Castor oil. Some have suggested increasing to around 25% total oil content. Check with a motorcycle dealer who sells stuff for competition. You can get a quart bottle of Kotz BeNol Racing Castor oil to add to fuel. Here in US it goes for around $10 per quart.
On the .049's, the Castor oil will protect the piston / connecting rod ball and socket joint and the aluminum bearing surface of the crankcase. Synth detergents help to keep the varnish from building up excessively. (BTDT, after so many runs on pure Castor oil fuel, have to periodically break down the engine and devarnish the cylinder with steel wool.)
YMMV.
ORIGINAL: mick1404 awesome, now I just have to find a similar product that is readily available in Australia, otherwise, I will have to blend my own, which I don't mind doing as then I know what it has in it. I would like to find a happy medium where I could have a fuel that all my Cox .049's can run on happily and with optimum performance and reliabilityand for my new addition (Fuji .099), but I'm assuming this might not be possible.
On the .049's, the Castor oil will protect the piston / connecting rod ball and socket joint and the aluminum bearing surface of the crankcase. Synth detergents help to keep the varnish from building up excessively. (BTDT, after so many runs on pure Castor oil fuel, have to periodically break down the engine and devarnish the cylinder with steel wool.)
YMMV.
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RE: Fuji .099 help?
ORIGINAL: GallopingGhostler
You're welcome, Mick1404.
Here's one of my Fuji's, same 099S-II except it is R/C and the later ABC version.
You're welcome, Mick1404.
Here's one of my Fuji's, same 099S-II except it is R/C and the later ABC version.
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RE: Fuji .099 help?
ORIGINAL: Mr Cox
Here is a little "time-line" of their development, going from iron/steel on the left to schneurle porting and ABC on the right.
Here is a little "time-line" of their development, going from iron/steel on the left to schneurle porting and ABC on the right.
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RE: Fuji .099 help?
oh, I forgot to ask, how hard would it be to get hold of the original exhaust? I might have to ask my friend to have another look in his dads garage for it as I have a feeling it might be a mission to find an original one.
#24
RE: Fuji .099 help?
ORIGINAL: mick1404 oh, I forgot to ask, how hard would it be to get hold of the original exhaust? I might have to ask my friend to have another look in his dads garage for it as I have a feeling it might be a mission to find an original one.
The following measurements are from my 099S-II ABC: muffler bolt distance 26 mm on centers. Engine exhaust exit inner dimensions: 5.07 mm tall by 16.2 mm wide. Exhaust exit outer dimension is 31.1 mm wide by 7.5 mm tall. An OS 871 muffler for a .15 will almost but not quite fit because the muffler's bolt spacing is 2 or 3 mm wider. Enya uses an exterior bracket, you might be able to find one that works, perhaps their .09 but I'd verify with the vendor its dimensions. Unfortunately I don't have one to give an assessment on.
#25
RE: Fuji .099 help?
ORIGINAL: Mr Cox Here is a little ''time-line'' of their development, going from iron/steel on the left to schneurle porting and ABC on the right.
The sleeve's two flutes shows it has been ported for standard cross scavenging. The piston is a baffle type, typical for cross scavenging. The heavier and thick chrome plated brass sleeve accounts for the engine's greater weight making it an ounce heavier than the OS. The OS's bypass is similar, but done through the case with a slot in the sleeve instead of sleeve fluting.
The following is stated in [link]http://www.modelenginenews.org/ad/fuji_ch4.html[/link]
FROM The Fuji Story, Chapter 4—The Classic Fuji 099 Series in the Sixties, End of the Twin-stacks: the Fuji .099S-II (Model 099-17): In the mid 1970's the 099S-II was joined by the .099SR, which moved the series out of the "classic" era by using Fuji's Inner Bypass Schnuerle (IBS) porting system and produced a claimed 0.28 BHP at 15,000 rpm. The .099S-II soldiered on for a year or two as a "budget" alternative alongside its updated and far more powerful brother and then faded quietly from the scene.