apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Rica,

The washout on the Apache Chipmunks certainly works well. In particular you notice stalls are gentler and slow speed handling is much improved.
I don't have a comparison between the same plane without the washout and these ones so I cannot give a direct comparison but these Chipmunks handle very well.

Regards

Ari

rica1

My Feedback: (32)

Thanks Ari,
I do like the fact that slow speed and stalls are more stable. I hope it's not adverse inverted or KE. Thank you for your input. I look forward to your build on the Cessna. Rick

Fbandit

Dear All,

thanks for the outstanding quality of this build thread.
I learned a lot.

Last week I received my Pepsi Kit from apache Aviation. It looks quit good.

Due to the fact that I'm relatively new in Kit building I have some questions.

How have you realized the flap servo position - like it is in plan? Is one Servo enough? Or did sombody the integration of the servo into the wing and use 2 servos - each for LH and RH Flap ?
I will realize the 2 Piece wing kit due to transport and storage issues. Due to this I feel the one Servo on the upside of the wing will disturb easy transport and setup at the flying field. I thought about the installation of 2 Servos included in the wing (like the aileron servos) will be better.

apalsson realized the pull pull for the rudder. I thinks it looks better to have servos inside. How did you all decided - outside like the plan or did you go an other way. I'm happy to get some ideas.

Thanks in advance for support.

Regards

Frank

rica1

My Feedback: (32)

No flaps needed, two aileron servos and pull pull on rudder.

Fbandit

Thanks rica1 for the information. I'm still in the descission phase - what I will change and install.
Pull Pull for the rudder is a "Must" because it looke not good to have the servo under the fuselage.
Servo for elevator I think will be as it is. Flaps - it would be my first A/C with Flaps and for training it would be not so bad, especially while I can land also without flaps.

Best Regards

Frank

bogbeagle

I just flew mine for the first time last week. It's been hanging around, nearly completed, for a couple of years. I'd lost interest in the project, really. Was going to sell it, but I knew that I wouldn't get much for the airframe, so decided that I should at least try to enjoy it.

Very nice aeroplane, in terms of its flying qualities. It's the Pepsi version, though I haven't got round to applying the stickers.

It's a bit heavy ... solid build ... but flies so smoothly that I can forgive it that. Low-speed handling is excellent. Some of the extra weight is courtesy of the strobes, landing light, dual Rx pack and on-board glow. Weighs about 7kg, dry.

Mine has a Saito 1.80, running on straight fuel. Plenty of power.

Will probably keep it.

Mine has flaps and I took a guess at the amount of pitching which they'd create ... dialled in a whiff of elevator compensation and, by chance, got it just right on the first attempt. Mind you, I have the smaller Pennzoil Chipmunk (plastic fuselage, can't remember the name of the manufacturer) so I had a good starting point for an educated guess.

James3922

Hi Guys,

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi James,

Congrats on your new Chipmunk.
These are outstanding kits and excellent planes to fly. No doubt, your new Pepsi will have hundreds of good flights.
My first one had a G38 in it, probbaly at the top end of the power requirements and weight. I built that plane as per the instructions from Mike.
The one I now have (still not quite finished) has fully sheeted wings and a slightly modified fuselage. I originally planned for a Dle30 for it but have since changed my mind and will be using the MVVS30 and a Pitts muffler because it's a much lighter setup than the old G38 was.
Several house moves and distractions from other kits have drawn out this build up to several years but now I am covering it (Monokote) and shouldn't be far off.
I am already contemplating buying yet another one of those planes. This time, most likely the trainer version because I have already built all the others.

Good luck with your build. I'd appreciate if you posted photos and comments in this thread

Adrian14mz

Hi lads.
I also have a AAC Penzoil kit under construction for the past couple of years but I have also been busy building other stuff at the same time. ( Grass-hoppering I believe it is called ). Engine: I have a Laser 180 4st that I am thinking of pulling it around with. ( What do you think ). I also bought the two-part wing pack ass/. Has anyone used this yet and if so what do they think.

I have the fuzz and the two wings nearly complete plus the stab & elevators. I am getting there slowly and I would like to have it finished and flying for this summer. Fingers crossed.

I will post some photos when I get a chance.


Keep up the good work.


Adrian.

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Twice, I bought the two-part wing kit but never ended up using it and just epoxied the wong parts together in both planes
I didn't like the access to the bolts locking the joiner into place.

Adrian14mz

Yes, a lot of chaps don't like this arrangement but I will give it a go and see.


Adrian.

kenv56

I have a question for those who built the Pepsi chipmunk.
I don't want to have the servo for the elevator mounted to the outside of the plane, so that means servo in the fuse, I see
that some of you have done this as well. How did you run the push rods out the back of the fuse? The bends needed seem
too tight. If there are some pictures of your setups I would like too see them.

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Ken,

I normally do this the same way because I don't like the tail weight of two servos, especially not in a plane like the Chipmunk with solid plywood sided fuselage.
I use a 9mm hardwood dowel and some 4-40 rods.
For the aft end, I drill a couple of 3mm holes through the dowel (maybe an inch apart or so), maybe 3" from the end and cut a groove from those holes (on opposite sides) right through to the end.
Measure how long the 4-40 wire needs to be and cut them 9mm longer. Bend a 90 degree bend 9mm from the end and slip the bent end through the hole. This way, attach both wires to the dowel and secure either with a heat shrink tube or wrap fibreglass around it and glass it.
You can do the other end the same way but with a single wire.

There are no bends needed, just split those two wires enough to be at the same spacing as the elevator control horns.
Simple and cheap solution that works every time.

kenv56

Couple of questions to help visualize your setup.
I assume your servos are up by the wing right?
how long is the hardwood dowel you are using, and how long are the 4-40 rods at the aft end of the hardwood dowel to the elevator horns?

My main problem is I don't want to have lots of push rod showing on the outside of the fuse, and it seems there needs to be
a lot to prevent binding because the elevator control horns are spaced out quite far from the fuse.
How long is 4-40 rod do you have outside of the fuselage?

Maybe a better way to put it where did your push rod come out of the fuse? Underneath the stab or forward of it?
I'm probably over thinking this...

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Ken,

The elevator servo is in the tray provided in the kit.

The first 4-40 rod extends into the area behind the former just aft of the wing and extends back to around 4-5" in front of the stab leading edge
The exit slots are under the stab, just begind the leading edges.
The 4-40 rods are just the standard length ones you get in virtually any hobby shop. I have shortened them somewhat.

Sorry I cannot post any photos for you. I'm away from home at the moment and won't be back till the weekend.

I hope this helps some

kenv56

It should help, thanks. If you get the time, a picture would be nice. I still need to get some push rods from the
hobby shop and won't be able to get there for a few days. Just trying to do some planing...

It is interesting the differences between your kit and mine. mine came from Precision Cut Kits.
They are very similar, but seems your kit has made improvements to the one I have.

Adrian14mz

Hi all.
I would say that that more than likely, the inside of the fuzz in the Precision Cut Kits aero is slightly different to the Apache Aviation Kit.

This push-rod arrangement is a standard one and should not be hard to arrange. Just make sure you use a rounded piece of wood just like the other chap has said because square push-rods carry vibration along them, for some reason.

Adrian.

James3922

Thanks for the welcome Apalsson.
I like the forked push-rod method but I'm not certain where I can rods long enough. I can easily get 3mm push rods 200mm / 8" long but I'm thinking 12" would be better.
Regardless the elevator will now go in the wing seat area. I may end up threading some piano wire instead.

Does anyone have experience with the Apache engine mount dampers?

http://www.apacheaviation.co.uk/Engi...minators_.html

I have the red ones suitable for 20-45cc. They require a 16mm diameter hole and a bulkhed thickness of 12mm.
The 12mm thickness is easy, just made small pads as per plan.
How critical is the diameter? 16.25mm is as close as I can get. Any thoughts?

rica1

My Feedback: (32)

I have never used any vibration eliminators or seen top r/c pilots use them but would like to hear of any success other's have had. My concern would be the developing of play (wear) in the mount and change of thrust line when accelerating or decelerating.
I would be interested in the differences between the Apache and Precision Cut Kits (PCK) kits Chipmunk. I found a build thread on the PCK kit at, http://www.dream-rc-airplanes.com listed under the "Build Articles". It has lots of photos and thought it was very well done. Didn't care for the rudder servo on the bottom of the fuse though. Would go with pull-pull to the upper fuse to rudder.
I read somewhere the owner of Apache was leaving, if so, is someone taking over? Rick

James3922

Hi Rick,

I am new to the vibration mounts. The stiffness can be adjusted by shortening the inner spacer tube. They are endorsed by Laser Engines and Ziroli Plans.
Apache have been bought over by SLEC in the UK.

http://www.apacheaviation.co.uk/index.html

http://www.slecuk.com/online-shop.html

SLEC have been in business for decades and have an excellent reputation here. The Apache kits do not appear on their site.

James

rica1

My Feedback: (32)

James,
Thank you for the info on the vibration mounts, let us know if you use them and how they work out. Laser and Ziroli must like them then. And the links for buying from Apache and SLEC. How about some photos of your build? [8D] Rick

James3922

Just a random mix of pics.
The u/c legs are 1/4" and are pre-bent. The aileron servos mount to wing hatches .The engine is the DLE 35cc.
A wee bit of machining to make up the pads,- I won't drill the bulkhead untill I'm happy with he method.

The wings still need the tips shaped and the ailerons / flaps cut out. Then I can start the tail.

rica1

My Feedback: (32)

Thanks for the photos, nice progress! Is your kit from Apache or PCK? I see your plans are in inches? Did you reinforce the u/c leg mounting any? PCK has a carbon fiber leg option and mounts different in the wing (has 4 attaching bolts). Did you make the aileron servo hatches? looks good and strong.
Also wanted to ask you if your wing has washout built in? On the Ohio RC kit, there is a separate jig to put under the trailing edge to build in washout. Gives it more stable handling at slow speed but not sure if I want that if I have to sacrifice in aerobatics. I will be VERY interested in how you like the performance of the DLE 35 as I have chosen the the same eng. Rick

James3922

I'm building the Apache kit. The kit comes complete with two rolled plans. One for the wings and stab, the other for fus and fin/rudder. Both in inches.
The u/c mounts are strong as standard. The ribs are heavily reinforced and the blocks themselves are very sturdy.
The aileron hatches are as per kit. The pieces are already cut.
I don’t know about the wash-out although the Apache is reputed to have superb low speed handling.
The DLE is my first gas aeroplane engine. I have a little experience with a gas car. Hopefully it will be as good as it's said to be. I will post my progress. <o></o>

bogbeagle

AFAIK, the washout that is built into the wing is aerodynamic, rather than geometric.

Thus, it has comparatively little effect upon the performance of the wing, when inverted.

In any event, my aeroplane handles very well, throughout the range of "erect" aerobatics.