grossy2

HI Jim.
You may have an early production GP26R. The first lot came out with a baddly made bottom end. The bearings did not fit well and leaked. The fix is replace the Crank shaft, Crank Case and bearings for the newer version.
Also CRRC-Pro manufacture do not sell there engines on Ebay. Looks like you may of been mislead.
There newer models are great.

Cheers
Grossy

eclipso

Funny how even I have posted this before and yet some folks still like to bash the quality of this engine. Thanks Grossy2 for pointing it out for others too. To clear up 1 or 2 things here, soft engine mounts are great for any engine. No neccessary but nice. Also the pulse line is a must. I really hate to go through the technicalities but this engine will never have a strong pump if used without a positive and negative pulse. The lack of fuel draw will cause you to never get the needle settings right. You can see this if you tune perfect on the ground and then try a nice long upline in the air it will bog down indicating a lean condition. Since I did the pulse line mod I have not had one issue. The bowman ring has made a significant improvement in idle and I am certain it has helped with overall power but not sure as I made the pulse mod and ring mod at the sametime. I helped frank make the ring for the gp26r and I can tell you that you must be specific when ordering the ring. If you tell him you need a crrc pro 26 ring you will likely get the normal 26cc version which is different from the overlapping style whichs is required for the gp26r. Hope you all enjoy your engines and realize their potential as in my experience they are just as strong as a dle 30cc.

I will continue to watch the thread for the outcome of the soft mounts as I am also interested in them. Please post the pics. Thanks, Dave.

P.s. A note about props. Of course with any application there may be a better prop but it is very common when folks by engines that are considered a cheaper engine to run cheap props such as turnigy props. I can tell you it depends on your needs but this engine is not designed for a 17x8 prop I have run them but still you must have a low load style prop such as a menz. Zoar and turnigys are heavy and they are draggy if you wil. You are best off with a mejzlick cf 18x6 atleat for a 10lbs 3d plane. I get enough thrust to quickly pull out of a hover on my yak weighing in at 9.7lbs and top rpm around 8700.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

It sounds like I my have make a bad purchase on this engine. I will never by another engine off of E-Bay again I will try and make this a good running engine by doing all of the modes you have all just suggested but by doing this this makes this engine move expensive in my mind that a DLE-30. I will stay with engines I know I can get good support from so I won't have to go though this again. I have a new EME-35 that cost $250.00 and is spinning a Zinger 20x6-10 prop at 7500 RPM with almost no vibration at idel and I have not even touched the factory needle settings. I got this engine from Taildraggers.com out of Kentury and Chad is a good guy and has ask all of my questions.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Ron,

The new link worked and I wish I came across you web site before I made this purchase off of e-bay. I will be tell all of my friends about your web site if they are interested in getting a CRRC GP26R engine.

robertwilkerson

I have read some problems with the Eme engine also some where shipping with the crank to prop hub broken in the package. Eclipso and I have gone round after round about this engine and I have gone completely through mine (new piston, head crank, bearings, case, Carb.) and that was just to repair the way it was shipped. Still not completely happy with low idle (2000 rpm). I personally know guys at the field who run dle 20's,MLD 35's, and dle 55 all idle nice (1500) even power range and all they have done is install them in the air frame. The engine is not of close tolerances and QC is less than most. Buying an engine from Ebay new should not be an issue but for CRRC it is. I have purchased 35-40 engines from Ebay and half the price of new. I expect to clean re-bearing, replace worn parts. But they are not new. Based on how many complaints this company gets just on this forum should say something about this engine. I bought mine from SDS hobby and not an a Usa based dealer even if I had and the problems and the (cost to ship) I had I doubt I would have gotten my money back so I live with my purchase. In my humble feeling (for what it's worth) there are better choices out there.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Robert,

I don't know where you bought your EME 35 from but Chad at Taildragger.com has a 30 day replacement guarantee on his engines. My EME 35cc idles at 1800RPM and I have no hessitation from low end to top end. So far so good with that engine. I will live with my CRRC GP26R and do what I must to get it running right. I will start with the timing and NGK spark plug and see if that helps. After that if it is still vibrating a lot I will install some boca bearings and while I have the engine apart I will install a pulse line for the carb. I have looked at the GP gas engine mount and I will order one of them also and see if that helps. Right now if I buy another engine it will be a DLE or EME engine.

I do want to say the reason I bought the CRRC GP26R is that I have a good running CRRC pro 26vf1 engine and it is a good running engine.

robertwilkerson

I had a gp26 also of witch I bought from Ebay put it in a zero ran well less power than the 26r but ran good wanted more power so sold it and bought the R. I did replace the ignition to rcexl as the one that came with it did not last very long. That engine also had the bearing case slip problems. Jodi had several posts about that, then stopped selling them. Factory was not willing to adjust the problems. It all come's down to who bought into the program and who owns one now. You win because you could get into Gasoline cheaply and loose with lower expectations making changes modifying and spending more than the origional investment. From what I have read in other engine post there were others that were worse that the Crrc and now bankrupt. The best part of RC is having plenty of choices through out the years how many bad glow engines were introduced and failed. I have a MDS sitting in the collection right now and a magnum got then very cheap and are worth half of the cost.

robertwilkerson

I think it is important to add there are plenty of people who are well acquainted with the engine and repair to provide you with plenty of assistance and thank them for there information while I was frustrated with mine. If you need parts I found some less expensive (shipping and price) than others. Rather than step on a dealers feet in the post send me a PM and I will forward my list.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Robert,

I never wanted to step on anyone in this post. Infact I thank All of you for your help with this engine and I will stick with it until I get it running as good as my other CRRC engine. The dealer I bought that engine from is no longer in business that is way I ended up on e-bay looking for a 26cc gas engine. I am just so fustated with all that must be done with this engine to get it to run right. [:'(] I just hope the crank shaft does not need to be replaced like grossy2 has stated. I just ordered 3 off the GR anti-viration mounts for gass engines from Graves RC. I think they will help out also like Ed said.

robertwilkerson

Well there is the fun in achieving a goal and the pleasure of it working out, I am still at a loss over the Ebay issue if you go the CRRC website there is a big red banner letting you know they will not support that engine????? Grossy2 implied what I really think happened they built a bunch of substandard engines then dumped them to Ebay sellers and now will not stand behind there product. For that reason alone I will not purchase another CRRC. The metallurgy is soft, tolerance are poor and it is a shame the factory will not change that. Yes they are cheap but after you go through them you could have bought a SYSSAS one of the higher priced engines. And bash is kind for the name..... I have many names for them but will not demonstrate how childish I can be. "So Pip, Pip stiff upper lip and all that old wrought" (does any one know what that means?) my dad said it all the time.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Robert,

I guess I am just mad at myself for not not checking things out any better about the purchase of this engine from an e-bay seller and now I am paying the price trying to get it to run right. I said I would never by another engine off of e-bay. I may buy another CRRC engine in the near future and if I do I'll be going with Ron. He has been a big help along with you and others here. I thank you all once again and I do beieve I will get this engine running right. It is just the low end that is bad. [:'(] The top end is very good.

RonsHangar

Thanks Jim, I'm here if anyone wants to bounce something off me. After all the discussion about a pulse line, I will investigate this further as my 26r does very well on the up-line, using an 18X6 prop. Having experience in flying R/C at high altitude and almost sea-level fields, it would also help if each one discussing their engine performance include the approximate field elevation. Low density does have an effect on fuel delivery systems that rely on engine pressures. I am currently in Florida, and I'll tell you the difference between 13ft elevation and 4700ft (Alamogordo, NM) is like guiding a submarine with wings, through the water. Engine performance, and aircraft flight, greatly improves at sea-level!

A lot of gas engines use the Walbro carb and the GP26r is one of them. I still have two in the box and honor the warranty from CRRC. I also inspect and operate engines that I do sell, before they leave. My intentions are to remove the carb on my Extra and see if there is a potential problem with the pump getting the needed "pulse" to effectively perform. Another thing I have to do is find where I read about fuel pump diaphrams and the different materials used for them. If a diaphram is made of a thin fiberglass material, it will be stiffer and not flex as easy as one made from a flexible fuel-proof plastic. These can be changed out, from what I remember. I have to research more to source these.

I do perform one other mod on the engines I fly, and this comes from an article I seen in the magazines awhile back. The choke plate has a small hole in it and this impedes the choking process. If the carb is accessible and one can place their finger over the venturi, the problem is elevated. However, if the engine is totally enclosed, like it is on my Extra, there is no way to place my finger over the carb. To remedy this, I removed the choke plate and plug the hole by using solder. To do this, the choke plate is removed by removing the small screw holding it there. Clean the disk with some 400 grit paper or even a stiff pencil eraser. Get it shiny! Properly heated, the solder should flow. If too much solder gets on it, remove a little with the Dremel tool. Now, to place it back in the carb, insert the disk and install the screw. BEFORE tightening the crew, make sure the choke is aligned with the venturi. Gradually tighten the screwq so that the choke is sealing all the way around the venturi. There is enough slop in the screw hole that will create a "PITA" or Pain In The A... when it comes to re-installing it. Fit it back into the venturi and bring the screw down onto the plate, just to where it can't fall sideways, but loose enough to nudge it in alignment, open/close the choke gently and guide the plate in alignment with the venturi. Gently tighten the screw ocne it is in proper alignment.

After I complete a re-build on my Sbach 342, I will do more research on this. Yea, my Sbach... one half the elevator came loose in flight. That subject is for another thread. Until them...power on!

robertwilkerson

Ron as a seller of the CRRC line can you explain the Ebay issue to me. I have heard they want to protect the distributors my question is how does that protect you when people like my self and Jim and others in this post are having so much trouble and because we bought them from an overseas distributor (at a lower price) we will not receive warranty service from anyone except the seller, the factory is useless so the unsuspecting public is stick paying not only the parts, but the cost of shipping and the down time to repair a brand new engine. Then the statement was if you had purchased it from me I would have checked it out. (I thought that was the factory job) How does that protect anyone except CRRC?

I recently read reports about the EME and broken cranks, the factory wrote back and stated they will stand behind anything they sell and would pay to have it returned, and a brand new engine would replace it. The name is soiled already

I have 2 of this company products.I can not sell them because no one will buy a CRRC motor from Ebay and that's the most prominent place to sell.

I have enough of the parts to be paper weights so I can not even use it as that, enlighten me PLEASE!
What would a new buyer want to make this kind of purchase? After reading all of the changes not knowing if you bought a early or newer model idle speed issues ( this is all over the world the problem is being reported) Leaves to many question to a new buyer.

The thing that angers me is that CRRC does nothing about it except to profit at our expense, you as distributors should be concerned enough to protect your brand and shipping be part of the service along with servicing where ever the engine was sold! So Ron what can you tell me that would convince me to purchase another CRRC product parts or otherwise.
I am reminded of this Utube http://www.youtube.com/embed/dYslhL71k1M?rel=0

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

what does anyone think of the>> rcgf 15 gas engine>??

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Robert,

I also wonder how the CRRC dealers here is the states fell about these CRRC engines being sold on e-bay. I really feel for them and hope other buyers of these engines are smarter than me and buy them from dealers like Ron.

Ron,

For some reason if I cannot get this engine to idle without shaking itself apart can I send it to you and pay you to look at it?

RonsHangar

Jim,

I'd be happy to look at it for you. I warranty all my engines and service them as well. If you send your engine and pay shipping both ways, I'll see what I can do to help with the idle. I have the test kits for the excel ignition and can test/adjust timing. let me know what your approximate field elevation is.

As far as ebay sellers... CRRC will not honor any warranty, if sold through ebay. I had an experience with the G55II twin cylinder. The crank was machined improperly. The rear bearing button was not aligned with the front of the shaft. Even sending it in to CRRC, they did a poor job of checking it out. Placed the engine on the table, used a screw driver as a cheap version of a dial indicator. One held it with two hands while another rotated the crank “nut�. They took video and sent to me, to show the tip of the crank did not wobble. Firstly, it is not possible to see what they were trying to show by a video. I knew what was wrong and I waited until they got more cranks in, ordered one and then removed and replaced the crank. I chucked the old crank in the lathe and the rear bearing looked like it was out of center by at least 1/16". This condition caused the front part of the crank to wobble. It was obvious, seeing the spinner turn with the engine running. I replaced the crank and turned the engine by hand. It was much easier to turn. AND the two halves of the crankcase actually lined up when reassembling the thing. Got that one from ebay! That was before I established my status with CRRC.

By the way, I proposed a new design of muffler for that twin cylinder to get it to fit in the cowl of my Sbach. The front ends of the cans are tapered 45 Degrees so that the engine muffler assembly fits inside the cowl.

RonsHangar

Robert,

Love the video!! The only way I can answer your question about CRRC and eBay sellers is that we have established a legal status with the manufacturer, providing CRRC with my company status and licenses, etc. eBay sellers can buy/sell at will and misrepresent CRRC. We also have a direct relationship with the service department and can represent the end user. Professional relationship is key.

robertwilkerson

Thanks Ron: I understand that it is a "legal relationship" that is about as far as misrepresentation as one company could go CRRC does a pretty good job with out anyone assistants I did a little math of exactly how much I have into this engine to date. (keep in mind I have possibly 3 quarts of fuel through it)
Bearing 15.00
Gasket 3.50
crank 23.00
Muffler 20.00 gone through 2 of them so far.
crank case 23.00
Boman ring 13.00
Reed block 13.00 Extra parts
Piston 13.00 2 quarts and had a big slot worn in
head 30.00 ring was installed back ward
shipping 9.00
green lock tile 8.00
and a new carb. 40.00
Purchased the engine from Boran trading shipped 174.00
Grand total of this gem 375.50 Priceless

I think this pretty much qualify me for the biggest loser one Word AVOID! and misrepresentation of a brand new engine with a legal line of baaa baaa.
The term Legal is considered questionable if not fraud an feel for you as you will get stuck with the junk
And you know I still have an engine that will not idle less than 2000 rpm So tell me "Do I fell lucky?" Don't bother shooting just hand me the gun I can do it myself
So now I have dedicated my time to inform all who would consider know what you would you forced to pay for the owner ship. (unless you just put it on a shelf to look at) Possibly the best use so far! "Buy crrc to look at!"

eclipso

Dang Robert I thought you got past that whole thing. Look if you bought it off ebay you could get anything. For 175 I would have been sceptical to begin with. My 26r cost 250. I did have some issues but had I gotten one with the metal reed cage and done the pulse line and bowman ring to begin with it would have been sweet from day one. I have gone round and round with folks but here is the truth no matter how you slice it. Dle's are ok. I've had them and they don't have unspeakable power they are just another engine. The first 30's were plagued with issues especially the puddling of fuel in the original intake. They use a cheap junk carb not walbro. Crrc are just as good if you compare these engines but don't be mistaken they are not the same. As for idle. If yours gets 2000 and mine does also then it is normal. Not all engines of any kind are going to be exactly the same.

The pulse is not a walbro problem it is the way that it is setup on a reed intake system. It may work on some engines but for mine as with any of the 26r's you must have a positive and negative pulse. It aint a hard thing to understand when the crankcase draws in fuel and air it does not provide an effecient vaccuum for the pump. My average density altitude mind you is much higher than even denver at an air density of over 6000' asl. This even makes a plane wing loading much higher than other places. If my bird can fly with power to spare then anyones can.

robertwilkerson

Because I bought the engine for that price doesn't negate the fact that I have had to put another 200+ just to get it running properly I have already said that the reason I bought was the additional power. My issue is not that! what good is power if you can not get it to work through out the power band and not having a black mess all over your aircraft. You might have one of the few good one's and who knows what the dealer had to do before your bought it,possibly why you paid so much? but there is no reason why so many are showing up with the same issues. The is not a one time issue. And I doubt if you were in this situation you would be so defensive. I have read post from England and they are complaining about the same problems Look this is not about something used and I bought someone's problem( well let the truth be know I bought CRRC's problem) it was new it was not purchased on Ebay and would have a hard time selling it on Ebay. Leaking bearings bad cranks poor assembly are not reasonable and there is no reason why someone should be forced to pay for the repair and the shipping just for the pleasure of owning a CRRC. This is a factory that sells a hit and miss and will not take any responsibilty for there actions. No I will not go silently into the night I going to let every one know. I have nothing to gain by sitting on my thumbs and accepting statements that imply I have done something wrong by reporting the facts. And why would the price be of issue it is a brand new product and you don't shop for a good price? Buyer beware and willing to send it back to a USA dealer for repair don't bother starting it just send it back so they can check for timing, bearing alignment, bad crank and that it was assembled properly. And be ready to pay $ 30.00 more in postage and down time. Oh and let's not forget to buy a new ring, and install a new pulse line that will void your warranty.

rebranger

AMEN Robert! Keep it up, put the word out!
There ought to be some kind of website to post "lemons" on. Nowadays, one has to research everything before purchase. There is so much substandard junk being soldto unsuspecting buyers! From cell phones to laptops to RC stuff to ATV's!!
I have fallen for the cheap goods like everyone else! I bought 8 Sv-26's from Troybuilt 3 yrs ago; they sold 'em on a Black Friday special close out, $115 each. I sent 4 back and TBM refunded my $$. On the other 4, I spent 2 years & about $75 each getting them running!! And, they are still not very reliable. If I counted my hours of tinkering, aggravation & research & phone calls, I could have bought Sysas and have been flyin!! RCG's & RCFG's are a little better, DLE's a lil better than them, DLA's have all been good.

The temptation to take a chance on cheap stuff is too great sometimes!! I bought a bunch of cheap switches from Hobbyking. Made the mistake of using 'em on gas planes. The vibration trashed 'em in 1 hour of running!
Batteries? I had the bright idea to try the cheap 2500 NiMh's from Da Hang, wrong!! 1/2 were bad right out of the box, rest lasted about 3 months.I Use A123's now from HobbyPartz.
Servos? Get you some TowerPro digitals, metal gear, HAH! Got a dozen that buzz & won't center right out of the box!! Stuff that's not only worthless other than lesson learned, but also dangerous.
You get what you pay for. I learned my lesson, I buy from my local hobby shop, RC Hobbies (great place, service, people, help, warranty, etc) run by Rick Chambers & his wife. I pay a bit more, but I'm supporting a local Mom & Pop business, not some crook in China!!!
Some folks just don't ever learn. Remember what John Wayne said,"Life is hard; it's even harder when you're stupid!"

rebranger

I had one, bought it on a used plane. It ran fine, no trouble for me, but of course I didn't set it up or go thru the "tuning & timing pains".
I sold the plane & the next guy had to replace the carb to get it running, tho it was running fine for me. The gas residue or something must have stopped up the carb.
It was hard to find & fit a spinner (cone type), thus I ran it w/o one. Power was OK, not great, but adequate. Same for weight. It was on a 120 size plane, 10 pounds, low wing loading. Flew fine, only had one dead stick & that was on take off! (ripped the gear out!!)

soco32

I have not been on this thread for some time now, but I would like some follow-up help on the Pulse Line.  I saw the 3 or 4 pictures of the pulse line installed on the CRRC 26R - does anyone have a bit more detail; like fittings used on the crankcase and carburetor?  How the fitting is attached to Carb?  Mine will not draw fuel until I prime it, close the choke (with hole in choke blade soldered shut).  Once running the draw is OK but I do get variation in high setting.

rebranger

First you have to be willing to drill & tap a hole in the crankcase, then the diaphragm cover on the carb. I got the fittings (brass hose inserts with 1/8" pipe threads) at TSC or NAPA store. Might try local chain saw / small engine shop or rob 'em off sumtin. Get your fittings first, you may can find the black, hard plastic type. Run a tygon or neoprene line from the crankcase to the carb diaphragm. I'll try to take some pics, but engines are on planes!

robertwilkerson

ED: done the solder thing myself, I would start by checking the tank and fuel lines any leak will affect the draw use tie wraps or clamps, some where back on page 6-7 I listed the parts I used. I wanted to keep the carb in the stock location so I flat filed the pump side of the carb down to allow the fitting to clear the beam mount it doesn't have to be perfect just reduce the shoulder. fitting used on the carb were dynamite 90 degree pressure tap dyn2501 it has a 10/32 tread and in installed it with blue lock tite. On the case I could not get the swing room for the 90 so I used a du-bro straight uses a 6/32 tap pressure tap tower sells them you might have to look around for the dynamite fittings. You will need to pull the cylinder off to tap the case.(to locate hole placement, clean any chips away) you are looking for an area the crank pin will not be hitting (one side or the other). After that just remove the single screw holding the pump plate on the carb drill and tap install the fitting and hose reinstall plate, drill and tap install straight fitting again blue lock tite hook other end of hose put the cylinder back on.(be sure you line up the ring with the pin on the piston)Arrow on top of piston points its location.. I used the label from one of the parts tags and cut a gasket to seal the standard pulse line hole comes from the reed block you will see 2 holes in the gasket copy the casket and leave the 2 hole filled. I really don't know if this is required but I felt there might be some loss through the reed block. Go back in the post and you will see pictures from myself and eclipso. If you need more help PM me and I will walk you through it on the phone.