rcmichael

My Feedback: (21)

I have this arf and it really is pretty good. I plan on building the kit somewhere down the road. I am using a D.A. 60. Strong engine. New out of box at most rich full 2 cycle = 7000 rpm with a 23 x 8 PT carbon fibre prop. If anyone out there is using a D.A. let me know how you like it. I am in awe of the mods you ended up doing for your Corsair. I haven't flown mine yet. Spring is coming!

MRadu

Warbird Man,

Thanks for the heads up on the wing and flap joining as I too will have to remove some material to have the flaps deploy completely.
Yes I sure do wish that Top-Flite had left all the control surfaces not attached. Oh well at least the rudder is detached.

When I run into these things like the above, tail wheel and canopy I keep telling myself that it's simply an ARF and I was just going to put it together and fly it as is.

My friends agreed, however, behind my back they said " Michael will never leave it as is!" So no one was surprised to hear I started making changes. :-)

I'm trying to have it ready by spring time. If I don't keep making modifications I can achieve this. However, I keep thinking of new stuff to do. Like should I make the flaps operational? Maybe just set them in an open position so less of a hole for air flow? Or should I simply make a large exit hole in the cowl?

Also I'm going to try and make a scale muffler as the stock one is in the rear and is just calling out to me make a scale one.

Just don't know when to say enough is enough.

Having so much fun!

MRadu

RCMichael,

I thought about the DA 60 for this Corsair, however, a couple of things changed my mind.
One I have a DA 50 in my P-51 with working scale exhaust. (It's the one that is in some of my other Corsair photos.)
The DA 50 is strong enough to fully power the Top Flite Giant Corsair. I say this as the DA 50 ran great and then once the engine broke in WOW the power increase a ton! So the 60 is going to more than enough.

Two the DLE 55 is recommend and the cost of approximate $400.00 included muffler and stand off's. Where as the DA 60 does not include the muffler and stand off's and is $200.00 more.

I must add the DA company is better than great and service I found to be second to none. I might have gone that way however, remember I said this plane was intended to be a quick build and all the time flyer! Yea right. Ha Ha.

Let us know how it goes with which ever way you go.

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

Here's a good shot of the rudder and trim tab I found in my archives.

picard1

My Feedback: (2)

Thinking of going electric and wondering if Top Flites weight of 23-25lbs is accurate? How about it guys, whats your all up front weight?

MRadu

Thanks Warbird Man.
That photo will help.

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

RUDDER:
I know some have had trouble with excessive play and centering issues. Do to the torque rod design and the Corsairs own rudder design, one probably won't rid of the play completely. It would have been better if the torque rod assembly were set up as a pull-pull system. Some things that can be done:

On my arf, the hole in the rudder for the torque rod to slip into was too big. Also the mounting block in the rudder is soft balsa in were it should have been hard wood as was pointed out earlier. One easy fix is too drill out the hole and glue in a hard wood dowel. Then re-drill the proper sized hole for the torque rod. Also make sure you don't have play in your servos and related connections.

Also there is a nylon strap clamped over the torque rod. Make sure its not too tight and binding the rod. I'm not sure why that's even there other than to help keep the torque rod assembly from ripping out incase of a nose-over or something. I put some washers behind it and reattached. It freed it up quite abit which should help the servo/rudder centering.

Also check for proper spacing between the rudder and the vertical stabilizer and the horizontal stab filler saddle so they aren't rubbing on one another. Mine did because of improper rudder hinge hole alignment.

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

I've been flying mine for about 5-6 months now, all up weight is 23.8 lbs with a DA 50. I have a heavy 4200 mah (C cell) nimh up front and still had to add around 10 oz of nose weight.

MRadu

This is the stock tailwheel from Earl. This stock tailwheel has an plastic hub, but a foam tire. The tire is so soft that when the plane is on the ground the tire is compressed almost all the way to the hub. So I’m switching it out with an aluminum hub and a solid rubber tire.

MRadu

Here I’m about to fiberglass the horizontal stabilizer. The photos show that I want to cover the opening gaps between the elevator and horizontal stabilizer. I use 1/16� plywood, in strips. I CA this trim to the trailing edge. Do not cover as much as I first did or the elevator will not have enough travel for flight.

I’m using .5 Oz fiberglass and epoxy resin. I thin the epoxy with alcohol until the resin is like vegetable oil.

MRadu

Photo 1 is my start on installation of servos. I found that using the longer arms that a raised platform would be necessary to not have the servo arms collide.

Photos 3 through 8 show my almost complete canopy and canopy frame. I now see how much is missing from the fuselage.

MRadu

I start by using a template from the cockpit kit that came with the Top-Flite ARF. Using a piece of styrene plastic I then trace it out I attempt to make the hump more scale. I use the rear of the canopy to confirm the shape.

Photos 7 and 8 show the balsa wood build up and Bondo filler. The fit is good and I think the outline is good. What do you think? I’m about to glass and I can still make changes if you think the shape is not good.

MRadu

Both wing tips have been glassed on top and bottom. They also have been sanded then coated with one coat of primer. Then sanded again. I shall need to repeat it a again.
Photos 2 through 7 show how I’m attempting to cover the gap at the flaps. I used a strip of 1/16� plywood, same as on the elevators and ailerons. If there is a better way please share. I had to use a straight edge and trim the covers on the ailerons as I glued them extending to far and I was not able to achieve enough up aileron. Also all control surfaces required sanding and shaping to operate correctly. This is difficult as there are installed.

MRadu

Glassing the mid section. I first cut out a rough shape of glass I’m using .5 Oz. I’m not going for strenght as the plane was made with MonoKote covering. Even with .5 Oz. it makes the plane much stronger.

I thin the epoxy resin until it is like vegetable oil with denatured alcohol. I keep the denatured alcohol open and close as it is necessary to keep adding as you go. I use a $.50 disposable brush and use it 4 or 5 time over before it must be tossed away. During the application of the resin the brush will become thick and dry. I use a cup of alcohol to dip and clean often.

Now that the wing is completely covered onto the fuselage. I have the right side, top and bottom left.

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

Michael, consider using Fliteskin instead of 1/16th ply. Much easier to work with. You can get it here: http://www.fliteskin.com/Nice job by the way.

Cheers,

MRadu

Thanks Duplicator,
What size do recommend?

MRadu

As I was glassing and getting to the end or the bottom I decided that the plastic inserts for the exhaust had to go. I did not know at first how I was going to do this. As I was looking through my stock pile of wood I came across this large block of Balsa wood.
I then took my Dremel tool and cut out (as straight as I could by hand) a block shape into the bottom of the fuselage and firewall. Then a block proximally 3.5� X 1.25� X 1.5�. This took lots of trial fits and sanding little by little. I was a little care free as I knew I was going to use some filler and then fiberglass. Once the blocks fit well enough I then used a large dowel and wrapped some 80 and 120 weight sand paper and went at it.

MRadu

I test fit the cowling and I’m happy with the fit. After glassing and taking a little time to view with some of the major parts put together, I have decided to make a scale exhaust. Some how?

Well this is the end of glassing the Top-Flite.
However, now onto SANDING and SANDING!

Then some fun parts in adding panel lines!

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

Try the .015, that's about 1/64" but it is very strong and leaves a nice sharp edge.

Cheers,

MRadu

Thanks,
I'll give it a try. Placed my order in and I'll let you know what I think.
Thank you. I'm always looking for new and better materials and tools to use for my models.
This Top-Flite Corsair is my first use of fiber glassing.
I asked everyone I could about how and what to use.
However, the ultimate lesson was trying it.
I became better with each application.
I still need to learn more. The better the application the less sanding.

Thank you.

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

Looks like your doing great and your aircraft will last so much longer fiberglassed and look much better painted.

Cheers,

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

Ps. Just a thought, but in the fuse wing saddle area I like to add an extra thickness of balsa to the fuse on the inside. Makes the seating much better and you can then add filler there for a very good looking tight fit.

Cheers,

MRadu

Thanks Duplicator41,

Yes I plan on attempting just that. Next will be adding bondo filler with wax paper to achieve that tight nice fit. This will also be a first for me. This is why I post and welcome any and all advice.

Thanks again for any assistance you can lend.

MRadu

Warbird Man,

What do you think about my rudder mod? Did your mod have more than mime?

Anyone can let me know what they think. Should I add more shape?

Thanks,

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

Looking good. I'ts hard to tell from pics if you have the exact correct shape on top. I'd just compare it with your 3 view drawings and call it good. The ARFs vertical stab/rudder is not scale anyway. Especially the saddle/filler piece that mounts on top of the horizontal.

I covered my rudder with solartex and added rib taping for alittle more detail.

Be sure to strengthen up the rudder torque rod block before you cover it up. It's just soft balsa.