KDBrown

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Hi Wes,

I actually followed the plans and simply threaded the wood block on the fuse. However, I also threaded the wing with blocks as well so that the wing position is "locked" in place no matter how tight I cinch it down. By doing this, there is no stress on the wing saddle, or any wing movement. By having both wing ANDfuse threaded, the wing position cannot shift or change and is completely locked into position. To do this, I put my wing in place and secured, and then threaded both the wing and fuse at the same time. I also used thin CAover the threads to harden and fuel proof them. This method is solid as a rock. However, using blind nuts is also a good method. I have used the wood threads on other planes (as well as blind nuts) and have never had any problems. I do like having the wing blocks threaded with the fuse blocks which gaurantees alignment every time.

Kevin

sprgfvr02

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Thanks Kevin, I appreciate the reply.

Wes

senrak

I know it seems like wooden threads would be weak, and if you cut them into balsa they probably will be. But cut into hardwood and then hardened with thin CA, they are stronger than the nylon bolts you're using to hold the wing on. Trust me, I've tested this more then once.

3136

The wood is certainly strong enough, but I didn't have a tap that size so I used locally available metric blind nuts and nylon bolts.

Dunno if it's just me but I thought the blind nuts and bolts for the N strut fixing points were a bit small, so I upsized them.
Anyone else do that?

sprgfvr02

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As I was getting ready to install the basswood wing mount I noticed that it didn't fit. It was too short by a bit over an 1/8 inch. I contacted Balsa USA and explained to them my issue, and they are sending me a new one. Great customer service.

KDBrown

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Hey Guys,

Ihave an engine question. I am using a DLE 30. Do you remove the idle set screw? If it is set, then I am assuming that you cannot kill the engine from the radio. I am installing an ignition kill switch, but my understanding is that the radio does not operate the ignition kill switch. Or, do Isimply adjust the idle set screw so that Ican close down enough to kill the engine. Without the idle set screw, can the internal needle in the carb be damaged if pushed in a bit too hard? This is my first gas engine.

Thanks guys!
Kevin

sprgfvr02

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Kevin,

I have two gas engines. A Zenoah G-20, and a CRRC 26. On both I've removed the idle set screw and disconnected the spring. No issues. I use the kill switch on my radio to shut down the engine.

Wes

senrak

KD,
Best I can do here is tell you what I did.
I used the idle ajust screw to set the base idle speed after the engine was broke in and warmed up. I use radio throttle trim to set a fast idle during warm-up. My choke is on a lever mechanism which is push-pull. My ignition is on an push-pull switch mounted near the cowl, wired between a 4.8 v battery and the ignition module.
See pictures of choke lever and ignition switch.

KDBrown

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Thanks, how do you kill your engine from the radio? Are you using a kill switch attached to a servo? I would think if your idle set screw is set to an idle, then you cannot use throttle trim to shut down.

sprgfvr02

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Perhaps my 'kill switch' comment was not accurate enough. I use 'throttle kill' on my radio to close the carb from a button on my radio. Never had a problem doing it this way.

KDBrown

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Right. I did get that from your post. Makes total sense, and that is why I was asking about removing the idle set screw as Iam considering the same exact function. Idon't even mind using the throttle trim lever to shut down. Ihave a Futaba 7C and know there is a process for setting the throttle kill function. Iwill also look at that. I would like to avoid adding another servo for a remote kill switch if possible.

I was curious how Senrak shuts down his engine if he has the idle screw set for idle. In this case, I would think a kill switch that can be operated remotely with a servo is required.

Thanks Wes,
Kevin

3136

Remove the idle set screw and throw it in the bin.
Your radio is all that is required to set the idle.
I use an optical kill switch that is hooked up to a spare channel, some people use the throttle trim or a choke servo to kill the engine.

The spring on the throttle plate is there not only to return it to zero but it also exerts sideways dampening pressure, you can disconnect the tag on the spring from the lever if you like, however it's good to leave the spring on the shaft. If removed completely the butterfly will vibrate and wear the throat of the carb, causing it to continually draw air, your minimum idle setting will slowly increase as it wears more and more, and you will never be able to shut it off with idle trim alone. This does take a fair bit of time, but it will happen.

3136

http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/r...-shipping.html
these are super light and connect between your receiver and the ignition, very simple and reliable.

KDBrown

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That looks like a good piece of insurance! I like it. Thanks!

senrak

Kd,
I don't kill my engine remotely. After taxing back to the pits, I walk up to the airplane and flip the switch mounted on the airplane to the off position. Works just fine. I believe that spark operated gasoline engines should have a positive ignition shut down, unlike a glow engine which shuts down just fine by closing the throttle. If you want to operate remotely hook the ignition switch to micro servo and a separate channel. This airplane needs weight in the nose anyway.

DW

KDBrown

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3136,

Just received the optical gas kill switch. Thanks for the tip. This is perfect! I am also installing the manual switch so Ican manually switch off the engine at the plane as Senrak does, or kill the engine from the transmitter using the opto-kill switch. Weight is negligibile and the added security is worthwhile. Very cool. Thanks again.

ALO 111

Well well after a years postponment we finally maidened today. Flippen awesome 9 kg and all she flys like a dream. Will post vid when i figure out how.

Zor

Congratulations on the maiden.

A most beautiful sight in flight.

Zor

KDBrown

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That is awesome! Congrats! I don't know if I could fly a model that looks as good as yours, and had that much work into. Great job. Can't wait to see the video. Maybe post it to YouTube and include a link from here.

3136

Congratulations Barry,
I bet you were relieved to have that go sucessfully after all your hard work.
Well done mate.

ALO 111

Thanks guys. I must confess i got a friend who is a great pilot to fly her this was a good idea as my hands were shaking so much i could hardly take the video never mind fly. I never built in any right thrust as to keep it scale and not have trouble fitting the dummy motor. What i find very cool is it needs a lot of right rudder trim due to the big prop so she tends to crab or yaw if u like in flight. Actually very scale. I also think that the extra weight does more good than bad. Dle 30 sounds great with cut off pipe blowing into the cowl.
Will be entered in our yearly fly in this weekend. Hope weather holds up.

sprgfvr02

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Congrats. Oh to be able to fly in such an open area. Your plane looks great. I still have several months of 'stuff' to complete before I take her to the field.

Wes

senrak

Great to see another Pup in the sky!
Congratulations.

ALO 111

HI all very chuffed to say we flew my pup again this weekend at our annual flyinn (over 1oo pilots about 200+ aircraft) and she won the WW1 trophy. Flown so scale by my friend it was awesome. Scale loops and sloooow low flybys i cant believe it is over 9 kg in fact i do belive it makes it look more scale.
Must still get maiden vid from my test pilot.
Chat later
Barry

vertical grimmace

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That looks like a nice set up on your choke, but I thought I would throw out another idea that I have found works excellent. I run a golden rod cable back through the firewall into the cockpit to a soldered on t-nut or wheel collar. This cable needs to be well supported, but it has been flawless and you do not have to worry about vibration issues on the twist rod you have coming out the side of the fuselage.