Kellermann

Fellows
let me throw in my .02c

If the wires do it on the original, why wouldn´t they on the model? The secret is on the lower wires: they anchor firmly on a fuselage tab on each side - I make it from one single piece of aluminum that crosses the fuse. The upper wires transfer the rigidity of the assembly to the rudder post. That makes for a rock solid assembly, provided there are no floppy joints.
I place a pair of hardwood cross beams diagonally midship - no one can twist my fuselage except something breaks. And that rigidity is transfered to the tail asembly throught the flying wires.
In my models there is no balsa block anywhere on the tail assembly. If there was, only for drapping the fabric covering. Nevertheless, if you do it right, even without any balsa block, the covering will take the correct shape when tautening.
I am enclosing a couple of pics - again, this is my design, WH´s ist probably different but the physics should be the same.


Cheers
Marcus

Kellermann

Here a couple of better photos of the fin/fuselage transition on some of my models - all done without a balsa block underneath.

Cheers
Marcus

Bobt2

My Feedback: (4)

looks to me like a lot of ply/lite ply on yours. plus your stab appears lower than the wh. his stab is higher and unsupported and just pushed thru a 1/2 " thick, built up balsa fin. it appears very weak and i think the blocks are manditory.

Kellermann

You´re right, my design uses balsa ony to make the sandwich on the plycores and to sheet the wing. All else is 5/32 ply. Nevertheless, the stab rods go thru 1/2" like yours, except it´s ply. However, the rigidity comes from the wires and not from the base of the stab.
Guess the WH will need the balsa blocks, as you say.

ludfleet

My Feedback: (10)

Hey guys, All I'm saying is that the fuse is not really rigid at least on mine and all the flying wires in the world will not solve the problem. I also sure the that on the real one the fuse is very rigid before flying wire were added. I've been looking to do something to stiffen the fuse. any ideas I'll be happy to take. Joe

Kellermann

Joe I gave you already the hint: a couple of hardwood 1/4" sq. cross braces as on my pics, firmly epoxied in place, stiffen up the fuse - because of physics, there is no way to twist it unless something breaks.

Marcus

John La Belle

My Feedback: (52)

Hi Guys I agree with Kellermans post on 2/4/13 that the tail wires take almost the full load. My 33% Decathlon was made using seperate stab halves with only 1/4 short alum. connector rods at fuselage and therefore the tail wires take all the stress as on the full size plane The attached picture shows that the only real strength can be the tail wires. I have really thrown this plane arround with its DLE110 and have full confidence in the tail assembly. I feel the weakest item on the Decathlon are the wing struts with their seperate ends for attaching. That is why I used soild 1/8x1.0" aluminum strips full length and built up on all 4 sides with pine for airfoil shapping cheers John

John La Belle

My Feedback: (52)

Don't know where the picture went John

Bobt2

My Feedback: (4)

john, i sure would like to see a picture of your removable tail. heres a pic of the 33% tail. the fin is now glued. but everything else is on hold while i look at all options

John La Belle

My Feedback: (52)

Hi ; will try to attach a picture again, don't know why hasn't worked last couple times , the box actually said successful upload cheers john

Bobt2

My Feedback: (4)

pretty! and that stabs removable?

Bobt2

My Feedback: (4)

where can i find the acetate sheets. i need 12x24 sheets.x.030?

tflyrc

My Feedback: (9)

Check Balsa USA. Not sure but Lone Star Balsa may have some now as well.

Bobt2

My Feedback: (4)

balsa usa = too small to cut the windshield

Bobt2

My Feedback: (4)

actually balsa usa has some, but .020 instead of .030

grover1

Marcus .
Are you going to do a build log on your Pilot 1/4 scale Decathlon ?
In a new thread .I would love to see it built .
Greg

Kellermann

yes i will but on another fórum - will start soon on flyiing giantts (wrong spelling on purpose)... look for it there.
actually it is exactly the same as my 30% but in reduced measurements.

grover1

Marcus
I just looked at your Decathlon on Giants it looks good but .
On you sit you say
That is misleading it is not a copy of the original PILOT kit .
It is just a copy of your 30% kit
$999.00 US +15% Shipping & Handling for a 25% Scale with no that is a high price for a 25% Scale kit
You can get a RADIOWAVE 26% PITTS 12 SHORT KIT for $599.99 and it has 2 wings

Kellermann

Well I was just going to clarify that point. It is NOT the Pilot Decathlon, it´s a reduced MMF Decathlon with Fibreglass parts laminated from molds taken from Pilot Kit parts, as well as the overall dimensions were adjusted having the Pilot plan at hand.
So it will be a Hybrid, yet an alternative for those who wanted to get the Pilot kit which are no longer available. After covering no one will tell the difference.

I will correct the info on the site. As well as some of the prices, although my kit IS more expensive than others. No way to compare with asian-origin kits. This is not your run-off-the-mill kit.
All my kits are done one-by-one, they´re laser cut, the parts are laminated by a pro and all the hardware I DO BY MYSELF. And this hardware included even pre-built scale door hinges and pre-drilled, ready-to-assemble Wing Struts. Both items are a pain in the neck to get done for most modelers. And I want that to be done right, so I do it, and guarantee the overall quality of the kit.
Just ask all the guys who purchased my kit and built them. They are all happy and get their value for money.
Last but not least, they´re exactly the same amount of work as a 30% or 35% kit, so the lower price is merely perceptional.

Have a nice week ya all.

Marcus

grover1

Thank you for the info on your kits .
Sorry
I didn't know it comes with hardware included even pre-built scale door hinges and pre-drilled, ready-to-assemble Wing Struts .

Kellermann

Meanwhile, I checked the webpage. It seems that Google translator played some tricks on translation, which caused the mislead.
In the original portuguese phrases it was more evident. I tried to change the phrase anyway to avoid further confusion.

Still working on the prices.

Rgds
Marcus

Bobt2

My Feedback: (4)

i,ve been working on the struts the last few days. the balsa usa pre shaped bass struts worked perfect. i tried the jury struts using the brass bands and didn't like them, so i copied big bird, except i used 4-40 bolts to keep the hole in the sturt as small as possible. when done i will add a locknut and cut the screw to proper lenght.

Kellermann

There is only one way to do things right: doing things right! Whenever size of material allows to copy the real thing, there is no way to do it better!
Well done!

ludfleet

My Feedback: (10)

Hey Bob2, I made the straps as per plan and after aseeing yours I'm changing. However, I found these thumb screws that I am going to use. You can get them in 6x32 8x32 sizes. These eliminate the silver soldered joint. Besides, they look pretty good to. See attached photo I found that the straps squash the strut some when tigthened and make a mess of your paint job putting them back on, so I'm all for eliminating them. Joe

Bobt2

My Feedback: (4)

so, how many of us admit to screw-ups? must have been 1 to many late nites or too much coffee. looking over everything before final sanding of the wings.....i put the aileron servos in different bays in each panel. no one will ever know when it's covered and assembled, but i will................ thats a 1st for me....... i guess now that i passed 65 it will happen more often????????????