Luftwaffe60

you bet....

kahloq

Why would you think it would look too big when the part is coming from a 56" foam plane smaller then the H9 64" plane? Its a matter of how someone goes about installing the unit....which will require opening up the bottom of the rear fuse section. The easy part will be stearing the tail wheel since the FMS unit has a dedicated servo as part of the whole unit to do that....will only need a y-harness on the rudder channel to actuate the rudder itself and the tail unit servo.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

I agree Kahloq,  should work like a charm if one wants a retractable tail wheel, but as I remember the "F" model was the last to have a working retractable tail wheel.

Hellcat716

My Feedback: (2)

I started the build today and am very dissappointed the way the flap fits on one of my wings. The outboard flap is about 1/8" to deep so it hangs out past ther ailerion and inboard part of the wing ( towards the fuselage). The other one is about 1/16" to big. I know it is and ARF, just can not see why this should be that difficult for them to get it right. May have to cut the trailing edge off that much to make it look right. They threw in a small piece of covering, so maybe I can use that to recover the trailing edge. Anybody have this similar problem?

Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

Am starting to set up the flaps on this plane....the insructions in the book call for mid and full flaps...I've come up with the these settings:

Mid Flaps-27 degrees

Full Flaps-37 degrees

I measured from the widest point of the outer flap (3/18") and then from the TE of the wing and these are the settings I got....If I stand to be corrected,please measure and see what you can come up with.....awaiting someone else's reply.....

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

Jimmy, I have not gotten into mine yet but I usually start with 45 degrees of flap as full flap and set it up on a slider so I can adjust it. Does the linkage look like it can support that?

Joe

Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

Joe: I don't have an answer for your question.all I can say is try it...Am having problems setting up the inner flap with the outer flap...going back to the beginning and start all over again with the flaps hopefully I'll get it right second time around...good luck

Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

correction on post about flap measurement....It's 3-1/8".................

bladebender

My Feedback: (5)

Wombat was thinking about making one El. but looking at motor mount going to pass

kahloq

Why? Nothing says you have to use the included box motor mount for an electric motor. There are plenty of options. I wont be using the extra woodbox to mount my power 90....I have an adjustable metal mount instead and allows more room up front for whatever needs to happen to get CG

joey_snaproll

My Feedback: (32)

HI ,Jimmy Bananas tried to pm ya but would go for some reason , so I'l ask here , I have a future build and looking for a me 109 cowl,would it be possable to get the length, and the height and width at the fuse open end.I want to see if it will work for the fuse former I've cut out. Would be great if you could trace the open end to see the true shape, but I'll take what I can get.

Thanks
Joe

Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

hey rcflyer79.......have you got your retractable tail wheel from Banana Hobbies yet??????

deatonbt

Without trying to send the thread in another direction, I have a book titled "Bf 109 Late versions" Camouflage & markings; ISBN 978-83-61421-13-9. It doesn't have a picture of a plane in the air. But, it has some profile illustrations of a K model with a retracted tail wheel. There is also a blurry photograph of a K-4 on the ground with what appear to be rectangular tail wheel doors that would fully enclose the tail wheel. If anybody is building a late model G or K, it is a pretty good book to have. It has a lot of profiles and a few illustrated 3-views of unique planes and camouflage patterns used by factory and date.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...-83-61421-13-9

- Brian

kahloq

I got the one I ordered early last week

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

I didn't consider the K version, as it has quite a different look from the "F", or for that matter the later "G" series. The tail was completely different design, as well as the tail wheel itself. It was lengthened in order to raise the tail. It was believed that this would help with ground handling by getting the rudder up and in the stream earlier. The elongated tail wheel was prone to mechanical failures, and being that the "K" model came out late in the war, when getting parts was very difficult, it was often locked down in the field.

Casey

I forgot to add the G1 and G2 actually had the retractable tail wheel as well

Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

kahloq:........sending you a PM.............

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Really does not seem worth it to me to bother with a tail wheel retract on an aircraft this size. Especially since so many of the full scale did not have one either.

w0mbat

My Feedback: (1)

I had to spend a few hours balancing the spinner because it was waaaaaay off! Also, the backplate wasn't machined straight and the spinner would wobble.

I added 16 oz. of lead in the nose in order to get the balance correct with an Electric motor and 8 cell 5000mAh battery pack pushed as far forward as possible.

kahloq

The stock tail wheel location has to be moved anyway because its way too far forward. Moving it rearward will help in ground handling as there will be a longer moment between mains and tail wheel. Aside from that, your right that only the F and some early G versions had a workingretractable tail wheel and some of the later K versions. Since I have to mod the back end anyways, might as well put in a full functional unit since the plane is an F2 according to H9. Some think it looks more like a G2, but still, G2's had a working tail retract.
In this case, since the part for the FMS me-109G is complete with retract and stearing servo in one unit, its a pretty easy install once the fuse bottom is cutout and a wood floor to mount it on is glued in place. It wouldnt be much easier to use a non retractable tail setup when relocating the tailwheel to the correct position. You'd still have to cut out a spot to get your hands in there to glue a mounting wood/bracket and then run a pushrod to the rudder servo up front.

To each his own of course

kahloq

Are you using a separate RX pack? Or are you using an esc with built in bec or externally wired bec? Due to the weight to balance, using an rx pack seems to make sense to me.

David Eichstedt

My Feedback: (17)

Are you talking about the Hangar 9 Bf-109? A pound of lead on top of an 8S 5000 pack is beyond extreme. The last one Craig put together only required 5 oz. of nose weight while using the recommended 6S 5000 pack.

kahloq

Dave....Wombat didnt mention this and I have no idea if he did this, but some people are installing the FMS retractable tailwheel unit in this plane while removing the stock tailwheel and putting the FMS unit in the scale location which is further back. As such...more weight up front will be needed to balance.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Just throw an engine up there! That will solve any tail heavy issues.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Anyone flipping this

w0mbat

My Feedback: (1)

I don't really know why I needed so much nose weight because I didn't change anything from stock other than metal clevises, a pilot and a bunch of epoxy on the firewall. Total weight is about 11.5 lbs (batteries are 2 lbs) so we will see how it lands!

I probably could have put a big receiver battery in the nose but I didn't want to mess with charging it along with my lipos.