Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Thanks N8. I have a long way to go. You know me, more details to add.. I'm thinking about some droppable ordinance.

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Just be sure you use HE for maximum effect 😄

BJ64

I've been reading this thread with interest, and I have a couple of questions re the Top Flite 85" FW109 - although they seem almost impossible to get down here in Oz.

Is the ASP FS400AR 66cc 5cly radial powerful enough to fly this Bird?
Are the electric retracts a better idea in the long run than the air-retracts, and where can you get the electric retracts from?

BJ

flyme2moon

My Feedback: (1)

HE is a lot of noise, but WP ( white phospherous) also known as Willy Pete, lights up the night like no other

BJ64

Huh?

Who is "WP" ...??

BJ

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Fuse details are completed and I got a 500kg bomb and a etc 501 rack which I'll start soon.

Pylon2

Hi Snr telemaster150,
can you send me a picture of your installation please.
Pity Topflite have not thought about this!! Strange, cause there planes are normally very well thought out. I have there P51 and P47 as my picture above shows.
Regards Richard.

SrTelemaster150

My wife had a medical proceedure rescheduled & we had to drive out of state yesterday. Ive made that trip 2X in the last week & drove 220 mile round trip to Plattsburg 2X helping my son purchase a car. I spent today catching up on chores.

I'll try to get the last step finished up tomorrow & post some PIX.

Pylon2

Thank you, hope your good lady okay.
Richard.

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

success[X(]

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Fuel tank deck for the 32oz fuel supply

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

looking real good N8

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks RAM I have a ways to go and I don't think I will be catching you

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

BJ64

The best price I can get one of these things for down here is AU$1,000 - but it's a 2 to 4 month wait.

Another option is $1,200 - next week if I want it.

Then there's ~$500 for the retracts.

How good are they, really?

Decisions... decisions...

BJ

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Again.. I would not spend $1200 US/AUS for this arf!!!!!!! and if I'm dropping 500 bucks for retracts, they'd better be Sierras! JMO

BJ64

There doesn't seem to be a lot options, Ram.

I guess the sheer size of thing drives the shipping up to a ridiculous amount.

Just about cheaper to jump on a plane and bring one back as excess baggage rolleyes:

BJ

SrTelemaster150

I got some time in the hanger room before my 4 year old granddaughter arrived.

I managed to fabricate some new sidemounts that will anchor into the servo deck. These were made from .040" extrusions. That is the maximum thckness that will allow the unmodified OEM pivot bushings to be utilized.



The holes for the pivot busings are located 5/8" from the bottom & are .150" diameter. I took a 5/32" drill bit (.1563") & dressed it down to .150". If you have a #25 drill bit, that should be close enough. I had to dress the burrs from the hole on the brackets W/a file. Make sure that the bushings allow the cylinder to pivot freely W/the mount screws tightened down securely.

I made the brackets 1 1/2" long & located the holes .20" from the ends to allow the mount screws to engage near the center of 2" long 3/8" harwood blocks that I glued under the servo deck.


I located the cylinder @ a slight angle to the servos so that it will operate in a straight line W/the TW retract pushrod.

I haven't decided whether to make a bellcrank or a sliding guide to prevent torque from the rotating motor from being transmitted to the pushrod. I'm leaning towards a sliding guide.

There's ample room on the deck behind the servos for a slide guide.


EDIT: This post has had the pivot hole diameter corrected to .150". It was listed as .050". The diameter of the 5/32" drill bit was corrected to .1563".

Pylon2

Looking good, thank you very much for the pictures. Let me know about the sliding guide if you think it's required.
Many thanks Richard.

SrTelemaster150

IMO, something must be employed to keep the twisting forces of the jackscrew from acting on the pushrod. Either a slide or straight bellcrank.

I'll tackle that in the morning. Whatever I come up with, it will be the simplest way to accomplish the task.

On another positive note, the installation of the actuator in place of a servo looks like it will allow the right (picture top) elevator servo to be moved closer to center thus eliminating the bend in the pushrod.

EDIT: My previous post (#1239) had the pivot hole diameter corrected to .150". It was listed as .050". The diameter of the 5/32" drill bit was corrected to .1563".

Pylon2

Thank you.

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

I think I'll just use a servo and slow it down with my radio...... Jackscrew looked a little unreliable

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Hey N8, I remember seeing someone use a moded servo to do the same for a sliding canopy but they removed it. What was your issue with them.

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Hey RAM I have never made the mistake of using one

SrTelemaster150

Why would a jackscrew be unreliable?

If you have a servo speed function on your Tx, that's an viable option. Many of us do not have that option.

I have fabricated a sliding shoe W/a guide & installed them in the fuselage. Since this is prototype work, I'm going to make a few minor chages before posting the results..