airborneandlovingit

Thanks NJMHELI for the quick response. Should I send the frames for the mechanicals to lado to be fit with the electric actuators? I sent off to Robart for the Robo struts. I had to order the XL's since the stock strut was too short. I also measured the stock struts that came with the plane and they are 3/8' diameter. I checked the Robart sight for weight specific information on the diameter of strut to use depending on the model weight. For a plane 18-24 lbs it recommended 1/2 inch. It's not a wonder I had a few issues with struts bending a couple of times on slightly less than perfect touch downs. I ordered the 7/16" struts since 1/2 " would have been too large to fit. I took the retract mechanism to a machine shop to have the recepticle end bored out to accept the strut. I found that I also had to make a notch in the strut itself, not too deep, but deep enough to allow the bolt to pass through that secures the strut in the mechanism. I also had to cut the length of the strut a tad to hit center in the wheel well. On the picture I noticed you had to cut a notch to allow for the scissor clevis on the strut. Other than that I guess that was pretty much all you had to do. Let me know on the lado actuators whether or not I need to send my retract frames to them or if I can install the electric actuators myself. Thanks.

njmheli

Hi.

I see where you are coming from now !! Sorry for any confusion that I may have put into the "mix" !!!.....You have the mechanical retracts on your Jug,I'm not familiar with those.......The LADO actuators are designed to be retro-fitted to Robart pneumatic retract chassis.

"Prop-Wash" in his posting ( It's his picture of the oleo,that you make referance to ),has retro-fitted the Robart pneumatic retracts ( pt # 631HAP-47...NOTE THIS Pt # WILL NOT FIT THE 30cc H9P-47..as stated now on the Robart web-site !!! ) in his Jug and as he correctly says,a small adjustment is made to ensure that the "scissors" fit into the retract bay for the oleo.

I don't know what the "mechanical retract chassis" of your retracts look like............very doubtful that the LADO actuators will work with those.........BUT you could call the US LADO distibutor to see if the chassis will acomodate the LADO actuator..?

Obviously you have spent some $'s so far on your plan to improve your main U/C,with buyimg the different "strut's" from Robart and getting extra machining carried out on the "pivot-block" in the chassis.

As far as converting any Robart PNUEMATIC CHASSIS to accept the LADO actuators..........very easy and with a dremel and 6/32Tap,the whole operation can be carried out in about an hour or so for both main U/C........or one can send off the whole chassis to be retro-fitted for you ( this service is avaiable to us here in the UK,by sending the items off to France).But as said,VERY EASY to do yourself.

The LADO actuators are also prorammable but MUST NOT BE USED ON A VOLTAGE OVER 6VOLTS,hence the use of a voltage regulaor is a must.........as these are digital,you can set up any delay with these to obtain a "staggered" gear lift and gear drop if required......they will also detect any sort of leg jam and automaically stop the cycle on which the jam is detected....They are truely a Plug and Play set up and I would always advise using a seperate power source for these.

Again I apologise for not "seeing" what you had going on with your U/C set up.

Kind regards............Nick (UK).

Sekhet

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Airborneandlovingit,

Robart makes a specific set of electric retracts to fit the H9 P-47 Razorback.

Here is the Product Number: 631HA9P47E

Web address: http://www.robart.com/products/hanga...ctric-retracts

I hope this helps!

airborneandlovingit

Thank you Cris. This really helps. I appreciate your assistance.

Zippi

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Is this a true scale color scheme?

tulz161

google is great...

http://www.warbirdregistry.org/p47re...hunterxvi.html

Zippi

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Thanks for the info. Just not sure if I can justify paying such a high price for this plane.

[email protected]

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I am working on the Hanger P-47 and have found that the E-retracts and gear doors do not form to the wing when the gear is stowed used a little het to r form and work good looks great.
after a few cycles now the plastic show since of hair line cracks around the attachment screws. I am sure that in time they will completely crack out. Has anyone made new doors out of wood or Glass???

njmheli

Hi.

Have a look at much earlier posts on this thread
and you will see all of the comments about the
gear doors and the fitting of them....
In short,you can either modify the whole way and
strengthen them ( that's what I did ) or as other
people have done is to make new doors out of Ali
sheet.

All is explained in earlier postings....check them out.
Good luck with your build.

Cheers Nick (UK).

David Eichstedt

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Note we did reduce the price in January to $679.

warbirdfan2

Can someone tell me what the inside dia. of the cowl is on this model ? I can't seem to find it doing a search of the thread. Thanks!

shrek514

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Has anyone tried glazing this plane yet.

DHC6

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Ha, I was just about to respond "I have a buddy who is just about to start glassing this plane..."  LOL, but it's you that asked...

shrek514

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That is funny  i started with my project today. I pulled off all the covering and and started filling all the holes and imperfection in the balsa

shrek514

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gade600sdi

Nick, have you flown this model yet. Still waiting for your maiden report. I opened mine up last night and unpacked everything. Its been sitting all winter on the shelf and I need to either get out the DLE55 or the OS 55 out of the box....I'm leaning toward the OS I think.

njmheli

Hi.

Sorry to say................no maiden as yet :-(..............weather here in the UK is not very good,so waiting for some sun and blue skies !!! The P-47 is already to go,just got to add fuel,take a couple of "pills" !!! and away I hope !!!

Tough choice, all I can say is that so far,very pleased with the OS 55GT,but I don't have any experience with the DLE55.........but I'm pretty sure that the power from both will be pretty close.the OS I'm sure having the edge on power.( as sain in ane earlier reply for a forum member,with the 4BL Biela and the OS on full throttle,all beit on a rich setting........you almost have to lean back when holding the tail ).

Let me know how you get on,I still like the idea of the carb up front.........although,I see on the new OS 60GT,it's at the rear end alar DLE etc .

As per my build thread,the OS was easy to fit in and link up...........plus no nose weight added ( heavy cowl and Biela 4BL + Hub + all the Dual Nimh's and Lipo's right up front..),hence a little tail weight I had to add !!!

Good luck with your build.............post some photo's.

Kind regards.............Nick (UK).

AS SOON AS THE WEATHER GETS BETTER,WILL POST MY RESULTS AND I HOPE A SHORT VIDEO OF THE MAIDEN.

curtusua-RCU

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Hi guys... well, I've finally finished my off-and-on again project of this Thunderbolt and I thought I'd waste a lot of server space and post a *whole bunch* of photos, since we all love seeing others' work.

I'd like to personally thank Horizon Hobbies and Hangar 9 for a really outstanding model! We really do appreciate your efforts to bring nice models (especially large models, ready for electric power!). Maybe someday we'll get a Razorback again...?



I may try and fly mine this weekend if the weather permits. No one in our club has a video camera so I'll try and get some photos posted of her flying.

Curt

curtusua-RCU

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Pics #2...

curtusua-RCU

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Pics #3...

curtusua-RCU

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Last few...

shrek514

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Curtusua i love your plane stand especialy the wing carier. Good job on your build. How do you like the electric robart retracts

curtusua-RCU

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Thanks for the kind words...

I like the Robart gear a lot and have them in my FW 190 (Top Flite GS) and soon in my Top Flite GS P-47 (I love Thunderbolts!).

I have them powered by a separate 2 cell LiPo (2250 MaH) and the receiver has two LiFe 2100 packs. The retract power has its own switch.

Curt

gade600sdi

Curt,

Just curious on your thoughts of using auxiliary power instead of powering the retracts through the Rx? Robart says you can do either in the instructions, but I was wondering the rationale behind either method.

Also, nice plane. 2 x 2100 mah batteries for the Rx? I was thinking of using one 6V Nimh 2700 mah for the Rx and power the retracts through the Rx also. I do like redundancy, but I usually reserve that for 50cc and greater planes with a 30cc size model I usually go with one pack and one switch for the Rx. My thought is to not overkill with weight an already fairly heavy bird, but maybe I need to rethink flaps, retracts, and smoke I may want the extra battery.

Nick,

I will post some pics, but if I go with the 55 I will pretty much copy what you did. I like your plywood stacking on the motor mount. Should reduce vibration vs. standoffs?

nioa

If I could offer one explanation - I too use another battery source for the retract circuit. It prevents/reduces that nasty electrical "jolt" from reaching the receiver. You can see an example of the sharp electrical impulse of electric retracts in this video.

Nice work Curt, really looking well done. Thanks for sharing those pics!

Nick