mR JoLLy

Norm, if you are going to use PVA for the rivets you might want to also experiment with Aliphatic PVA as an alternative to standard PVA. Folks over here in the UK increasingly use aliphatic because it dries harder and shrinks less.

I know a guy over here in the UK who took 2 months to do the rivets on his 1/6 scale so you are in for a very therapeutic time

Nigel

warbdluvr

I have used EZE Kote on a couple planes now with great results. I admit the first time I used it I almost had a stroke. The first coat on the wings did produce some warping to the sheeting. On the advice of a friend that already had experience with it, I did as I was told and left it alone. Once it dried the sheeting flattened out again. I was still a little concerned that it didn't flatten out completely. When I sanded the first coat I used my sanding bar that I had used to initially smooth everything out. Everything seemed to be just as flat and straight as it had been before. That was also confirmed with my incidence meter. I found it quite easy to work with and my experience so far has been good. JMO

norm

Hi Nigel, I'm not familiar with aliphatic PVA, the glue I' m using is Titebond wood glue which is an aliphatic type ogf glue, but I'm curious to know where to buy this stuff so I can try it out.

thank yoiu for the info

smithsfallsbirdguy

Wardrdlvr

I must admit that I still use the EZ cote. It is just so easy that I can`t resisit it. It works fine on thicker wood and I did my whole lancaster fuse with it. I did hear that if you wait the warps go away but I couldn`t leave the wing looking in such a mess. I started painting my tail section with Canadian tires best latex. I used my badger air brush and it turned out great. they matched the green and brown I wanted, two coats is all it takes.

mR JoLLy

Norm, I don't now if Titebond is aliphatic or not. I suspect it is like our good quality PVA resin based waterproof glues. I have lifted this picture from another forum for the Aliphatic glue label.

The Aliphatic glue is ideal for planking as it dries harder making it easier to sand. In appearance it's just like standard PVA but a little yellow in comparison. I don't know what it would be called in the USA.

Th company web address is http://www.deluxematerials.com/

Nigel

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

Hi mr Jolly,
I would like to ask you, if you know some e-shop, where is possible to buy some scale pilots? For example Century Jet scale pilots. I would like to buy one, but in the Czech Republic is not any provider. The shipping from the USA is too expensive, so I try to buy it in the Europe.
Can you help me please?

smithsfallsbirdguy

Well I have officially made it to ARF stage, motors are installed, retracts are mounted and working and paint was completed this weekend, next step is to install the radio, hook up the servos and secure everthing inside. I was able to get all the batterys in place to see what the all up weight and balance was. As it stands the the balance is very close with my reciever battery and a battery for a sound system that I plan to use in the nose. The total weight as she sits batteries and all is 30.5 lbs. As you can see by the weather it will be a while before she gets airborne. I ordered paint stencils for all the roundels etc. from Nigel and will apply them after the maiden. thats if I can resist. i love to paint

smithsfallsbirdguy

Couple more photos

norm

Hi Chris,

this is very very nice...you are fast! Im still pointing the rivets 1001, 1002, 1003... until I reach an estimated 19200 but I'll get there.

I guess you still have to paint the markings on the plane and the rundell. I have all the color codes for roundell red, roundell blue and the raf yellow & white if you need them.

Keep up the good work!

Normand

smithsfallsbirdguy

Thanks Norm
Putting on the rivets was very great fun. NOT!! I stopped at about 1500. They look so good when they are on though I could not imagine her with out them. What paint are the paint codes for? I was thinking of just going to the hardware store for some more latex and get them to match a roundel I have. So any sugestions you have would be great. I painted the brown and green with My badger air brish it worked well even for such large surfaces. I have also came to the conclusion that I need to build some kind of assembly stand that fits the fuse and supports the wings when I am putting this beast together. Hanger rash is brutal.

Chris

norm

This is a beast for real when you stand in front of it! The picture dont tell.

I'll get you the fcc codes tonight and the paint store will know what it is for the perfect paint shade.

I also came to the conclusion to try various method hoping to make my life easy and my genious tool is a failure, so back to the "needle" unless I contaminate my parts with this: Chicken Pox! (lol) IM, going crazy with this dot to dot riveting job!

Normand

mR JoLLy

Try the UK branch of Century here: [link=http://www.centuryuk.com/]http://www.centuryuk.com/[/link]


Norm, did you try the Aliphatic ??

Chris, I put the rubdowns together today. Paint Masks tomorrow

norm

Hi Chris Lots of fun things on this thread great graphics too!,

Any ways, there is a link of the fcc codes of he colors for the Lancaster : http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorch...rcharts_uk.htm

Look under 1938 - 1945 all the paint codes for this era in the RAF are there, you will also find some of humbrol equivalent or some alreadty available manufactured hobby colors equivalent.

the original mix is the fcc code:

dark earth = fs 30095
dark green = fs 34079
night black = fs 37038
trainer yellow = fs 33538
dull blue (insigna / roundell RAF) = fs 35044
dull red (insigna / roundell RAF) = fs 30109
identification white (insigna) = fs 37875 or 37778

Hope this help

Normand

norm

Nigel,

yes thank for the tip yes and it goes really well dries in almost only 10 minutes. I' swimmin in it!

Also your graphics are great ! I'm curious to know to what extent you made them in details , please PM me for the details.

Normand

smithsfallsbirdguy

Norm

That web site for the colours is awsome Thanks

Nigel

Rub downs look great, really looking forward to them.

norm

Finally done with the rivets.

This is the first time that the plane is assembled with all its wings together and the rudder installed. Looking really good and lighter than I expected. The rivets and panel lines have taken their toll on me in the last month. This is long hours for cosmetic details, at least 120 hours. All in all this is over with and on to painting!

I started contouring the camouflage covering the top of the wings and fuselage and plan to finish the contouring and masking for the "dark earth" color application. I am certain that the rivets and panel lines will enhance the beauty of the paint. The only downside is waiting a week between masking to avoid peeling off the fresh paint.

Normand

ProfLooney

lol looks like all kinds of fun normand

smithsfallsbirdguy

Hey Norm
heard your not a fan of painting, I must admit it is my favourite part. You have got to try latex, it is the way to go, home depot sells small sample containers that they will mix to match. I painted my whole plane with a badger air brush and it turned out great. there are articles on how to do this by Roy Vailincourt and I attended one of his seminars on painting at the RAM show last month. It is so simple,

Chris

norm

Chris, do you know if it is fuel proof? I was told that the latex melts with glow fuel oil. All in all painting is not my thing, you said that right, even latex sticks to you![:'(]

Normand

norm

Looking at your plane you reaqlly did a nice job with the camouflage, how did you do the paint overlap? the "seams" seem to blend with eachother ie the green and brown.

I really can use some help here.

Normand

norm

Ok I did my homework and found that using an air brush single or double action is the way to go with that paint that i so profoundly like to do [:@]. I watched videos and parcticed the techniques and once i was an expert i decided to go full blowned into painting!!!

I made myself a removable paint booth for aboput 150$, it will fold away taking no more space than a card table. I made it from 1/8 corrugated plastic and used 6 inch flex pipe connected to a 450cu ft in line fan that blows the filtered fumes outside. I'm using ductk tape to hold most of it together and wood screws to hold 1 x 2 (.75 x 1.5) pine. The filters are 20 x 16.

The booth all in all is 26 inch deep x 7 feet wide and 30 inch high. I tested it smoking a cigar and all the smoke is aspired from anywhere in the booth, works great.

Normand

smithsfallsbirdguy

Hey Norm
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner but I have been having computer problems. You are right about the latex paints not being glow fuel proof, you could still use them but you would have to seal it with clear coat. As for air brush I am using a BAdger 200. I normally mask between camo colours but when experimenting I found that I could get the spray very narrow and free hand between the colours. You are on the right track practice and you will get it.

norm

Ouff!

Just come out of the heavy fumes of lacquer and epoxy paint. Even when you use a gaz filtered full face mask, and proper evacuation of the fumes you get "buzzed" by it. Two beers mixed with that put me to sleep for the night.

I must admit that Klasskote paint is the very best, one coat and it is done. the panel lines and the rivets came out really nice. First time I do all that stuff as I always built arf's but for the first time I build a plane and it is from scratch, I'm quite happy.

So here are some pictures of the painting done. There is still all the markings that should take +/- 2 weeks between coats. some take up to 4 different colors. Notice the markings and the roundell, and of course the paint job!

Normand

ProfLooney

looking good norman almost finished

smithsfallsbirdguy

Maiden today, a bit scary on take off due to trim issues. after a couple of minutes of trimming she settled down. smooth and good on landing.